You are doing an awesome job. I was going to swap in a Northstar myself but changed my mind due to being too complex. I might decide to go ahead with it again, your thread is very helpful keep up the good work and don't forget to update your thread, lol. I'll be depending on you and your thread for my swap.
One question is the trunk going to get cut out?
Dave & Barb
[This message has been edited by Daredevil05 (edited 02-23-2008).]
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08:32 AM
vortecfiero Member
Posts: 996 From: Toronto Area, Canada Registered: Feb 2002
87 Fiero GT 5sp with Vortec L35 4300 Turbocharged V6 Bully Stage 2 clutch Syclone intake manifold and engine management with Moates adapter and chip burner Air/water intercooler and Devil's Own progressive water/alky injection 50lb injectors, 3 bar map sensor, Walboro fuel pump and Jabasco Intercooler pump LM1 wideband on custom manifolds and 3" stainless exhaust system T31/T04B S4 turbo with a Super T61 in the box S10 caliper conversion. Murphy's Constant Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value Murphy's Law of Thermodynamics Things get worse under pressure. Arthur C. Clarke "Any significantly advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic"
I noticed you are using the early intake manifold. What ECM are you going to use?
Reprogrammed stock ECM
quote
Originally posted by Daredevil05:
You are doing an awesome job. I was going to swap in a Northstar myself but changed my mind due to being too complex. I might decide to go ahead with it again, your thread is very helpful keep up the good work and don't forget to update your thread, lol. I'll be depending on you and your thread for my swap.
One question is the trunk going to get cut out?
Dave & Barb
Thanks Dave....I to thought about going a different route and even put all this for sale but decided to go ahead with it...Its not really complex just a lot of work. I am doing some cutting today....Trunk, deck lid hinge and strut tower I will keep it updated.
quote
Originally posted by vortecfiero:
very impressive !
As is yours
[This message has been edited by buds (edited 02-23-2008).]
Had a chance to get a little more done....First my dogbone is finished with new poly bushings,
Since this is an '88 and living in Ontario it will always need an E-test....'87 and down have dropped off and no longer require one. EGR tube made to look like its working but its really just blocked off.
And my exhaust is almost done...Went with 2.5" mandrel, Hi-flow Cat and Flowmaster muffler that I cut down with a hacksaw
And the exhaust it self...Still need to weld the muffler back together but after that I am ready for a test fit into the car
[This message has been edited by buds (edited 03-06-2008).]
Knocked a few more Items off my long to do list....Exhaust is done cept for final fit and weld. I am using the stock STS tips as I really like the look of these.
Coolant tube fabbed up from old fiero and STS parts.
Maybe someone can shed some light on the cooling system...Can I fab up a T right at the thermastat and put a rad cap on top higher then the motor and then down into my crossover rather then using the purge tank in the engine bay ?
One other thing...If somebody watching this has a '94 N* I could really use a pic of the waterpump tensior and how it mounts....A member here was good enough to send me one however its off a '96 and they must have changed as It does not mount up.
Mike
[This message has been edited by buds (edited 03-10-2008).]
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10:09 PM
Erik Member
Posts: 5625 From: Des Moines, Iowa Registered: Jul 2002
Needed but not nearly as big...I have a good pic at home I'll post later...I got the cut out size from another thread and went with it.
So does it interfere with the stock springs? I would like to hear what you di for emergency brake cable routing. I am thinking about mounting the crossover tabe off the front crossmember and use a tube on over to the passenger side tucks inbewteen the AC compressor and sump
So does it interfere with the stock springs? I would like to hear what you di for emergency brake cable routing. I am thinking about mounting the crossover tabe off the front crossmember and use a tube on over to the passenger side tucks inbewteen the AC compressor and sump
I am going to bring my strut Ass. home and check...It almost looks like it would be OK but I am not sure how close the spring comes to the strut tower. My hole is probably 3" lower then needed and I need another 1/2" up....I still have the pc. I cut out so its an easy fix.
E-Brake....Havent hooked up yet but its basically the same setup as stock.....Should be OK and I have lots of clearance under my AC compressor. Pics angle is funny....The cable will clear the header.
Middle support is 1.5" angle
And now some bling....Paint is High heat with ceramic...Well see how it holds up but for now it looks nice.
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10:06 PM
Erik Member
Posts: 5625 From: Des Moines, Iowa Registered: Jul 2002
Originally posted by buds: E-Brake....Havent hooked up yet but its basically the same setup as stock.....Should be OK and I have lots of clearance under my AC compressor. Pics angle is funny....The cable will clear the header.
Middle support is 1.5" angle
wow thats exactly what I was thinking of doing. Thanks for confirming I am not nuts
Also, thanks for the pics of the strut tower. I think the spring will clear that
I am going to build coilovers anyway so I can drop it down some but I will check to see just out of curiosity.
I hope I'm not putting to many pics up.....Should a 56K beware the title
keep em coming I have broadband!! hehe..Alot of my extra cash is wrapped up in this swap so, if I dont have to go coilover right away that would be a big plus
Had a chance to check the strut to valve cover clearance....It does clear but not by much....3/16" at the most. So I guess if you don't mind leaving the hole it willl work with stock struts....Time to start collecting parts for coilovers.
[This message has been edited by buds (edited 03-24-2008).]
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08:16 PM
Russ544 Member
Posts: 2136 From: S.W. Oregon Registered: Jun 2003
I used stock struts and springs on my IMSA with the N* with no problems. I'd say my engine must be about 1/2" further to the left than Buds. I cut a small (under 2") hole in the tower for wigggle room around the bolt head shown above. Measure twice - cut once Eric. It'll work with stock struts
Russ544
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08:49 PM
Erik Member
Posts: 5625 From: Des Moines, Iowa Registered: Jul 2002
Had a chance to check the strut to valve cover clearance....It does clear but not by much....3/16" at the most. So I guess if you don't mind leaving the hole it willl work with stock struts....Time to start collecting parts for coilovers.
Sweet , thanks for taking the time to check ..at least I can test mine now without the coilovers being an absolute at this time
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09:35 PM
Erik Member
Posts: 5625 From: Des Moines, Iowa Registered: Jul 2002
I used stock struts and springs on my IMSA with the N* with no problems. I'd say my engine must be about 1/2" further to the left than Buds. I cut a small (under 2") hole in the tower for wigggle room around the bolt head shown above. Measure twice - cut once Eric. It'll work with stock struts
Russ544
I shifted mine as far as it will go with stock slotted trans holes ( slotted to the driver side a 1/2 inch more ) so I probably will have more clearance although if the drivers side axle gives me trouble I will just use your method
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09:41 PM
PFF
System Bot
Mar 28th, 2008
Russ544 Member
Posts: 2136 From: S.W. Oregon Registered: Jun 2003
One other thing...If somebody watching this has a '94 N* I could really use a pic of the waterpump tensior and how it mounts....A member here was good enough to send me one however its off a '96 and they must have changed as It does not mount up.
Mike
Sorry Mike. I hadn't noticed this post before. the 94 tensioner is different than the later versions, so just a different bracket won't work. the difference is that the later tensioner assy bolts on to the back of the water pump snail with studs that go clear through the pump housing. on the back side of your crossover assy you'll see machined areas but the holes don't go clear through. I haven't actually tried it myself, but I'm pretty sure you could just drill the existing holes on through the housing and mount up the later tensioner that you have now. If you need a pic of the two styles let me know and I'll get you some, as I have both styles around here somewhere.
Russ544
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06:40 PM
Mar 29th, 2008
Will Member
Posts: 14252 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
I have done that and it does work. You can drill right through the W/P housing at that spot to mount the late tensioner on the early housing and nothing will leak. The late tensioner also includes provision for the belt guard, which does not work with the early tensioner. Not that I usually stick my hands near turning belt drives, but there may be items like shift cables and wiring harnesses in the area which would be best protected from the belt.
Pulled the motor for the last time and am now cleaning the engine bay up....Also bought and installed a Walbro 255 fuel pump from TRE on e-bay. I have a few things I would like to figure out.
Vacume lines on the N*....I see 3 and 2 are for cruise which I am not using....Can I run these to the fiero charcol canister ?
Mike
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12:50 PM
Russ544 Member
Posts: 2136 From: S.W. Oregon Registered: Jun 2003
The Fiero canister uses a ported vaccume signal to trigger the vapor flow and full vacuum to suck away the vapors. no ported signal is available on the Cad TB but you can make your own as I did. I'll dig up a pic later if you want one to see how I did mine. pretty easy actually
I think for the use on the Fiero canister system, it's nice to have the port enter about 1/4" in front of the throttle plate. Idle issues are a problem with most N* ECMs being used at the moment, so having the port a ways away will keep opening of the vapor canister delayed until well above idle. Russ544
[This message has been edited by Russ544 (edited 04-04-2008).]
I will keep it updated.
