quote Originally posted by Lee Phillips: VERY Nice! I hope I don't have to that much disassembly (lubrication of windows and locks, slides, etc; adding power windows; changing to power mirrors) but here's pix of how to do it all. THANKS for posting it! lee

You're very welcome!

edit to do da pwn teh page dance...

[This message has been edited by fieroboom (edited 12-17-2008).]

FYI you didnt need to cut the mirror the studs are just screwed into the mirror and just unthread like a bolt. Ask me how I know. I did the same, excpet cutting the bolt with a grinder.

I just did my doors with new dew wipes and greased my tracks and rollers. Also grease you latch from the inside. The door is literally like new now.

Anyone have a cheap source for the molding clips, mine all busted too.

Add to My Favorites

thanks

The fierostore has the molding clips. I've taken panels off a few times now and find that applying pressure first up then out (top first) will save you from breaking the molding clips - they are designed to release without breaking.

Well Done. Thank you very much. I will be using this very soon. ++++ for you

Great instructions. I will be doing this myself.

Thanks for taking the time to go through a complete disassembly of the door. While partial disassembly works for most repairs most of the time, this post shows how everything goes together. A + post for sure.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Thanks for the detail, I will be doing some door work. This will save me the headache of figuring it out as I go. Great detail in the pics.

Let's get back to the important item: the fence tool.

The pointy thingie can be driven, as one would swing a hammer, between the inverted-U shaped classic fence staple and the wooden post it's in and you want it out. After a couple of hits, you can hook the point under the round part of the staple that's exposed. If you are dealing with a staple stuck in really hard wood, you can place the point in the appropriate spot trying to get under the staple and hit the other, flat, side of the tool with a real hammer. Once you have penetration, so to speak, you can pry/pull out the staple by pulling back on the handles of the tool, with a similar motion to pulling out a nail with a carpenter's hammer.

The "hammer" side is used like it looks, just like a small hammer. You have to hit harder and more times, but you can drive a staple to hold wire fence to a wooden post. Also used as described above, to be hit by a real hammer to drive the point where you want it to go.

The pincher/center can be used to grab loose staples and just pull them out, as you would use pliers. Less obvious, but really helpful when fixing fence, you can grab the wire fence and pull it tight against a post by using the tool as a lever, then, with your other hand and a real hammer, drive a staple to hold the tightened fence in place. It is a good thing to use a metal tool to hold, and pull hard on, barbed wire fence.

Thanks for taking me back a few decades!

quote Originally posted by fieroboom: Once the door skin kinda pops free, stop pulling and look underneath it. The linkage to the door handle & lock still need to be disconnected:

Well that sure is special! I've been trying for two days to remove the latch and handle from inside the door. My fingers just don't fit in there let alone with any tools in hand. I never realized the handle and its mechanism would come up with the door skin. I'm in the midst of a complete door swap but I'm reusing the mirror, dew strips, lock cylinder and GT aero molding from my original door. This swap is going on a week now!

quote Originally posted by 02greens10 FYI you didnt need to cut the mirror the studs are just screwed into the mirror and just unthread like a bolt. Ask me how I know. I did the same, excpet cutting the bolt with a grinder.

That's what I found too; I panicked SEVERELY when I discovered the studs were spinning along with the nuts on both my doors, but no matter, the studs came out nicely with the nuts still on them, no problem at all.

Any chance of getting the pics rehosted? Or can everyone else see them ok?

quote Originally posted by Formula88: Any chance of getting the pics rehosted? Or can everyone else see them ok?

Just one of many posts ruined by posting pics that are hosted offsite.

Site is down. Probably someone didn't pay the bill. Need to use PIP for that reason. If PIP can't handle it (Size problem) there is ways....
If he does fix it then don't know.
Copyright mean he own them. I have the pictures IF he want them.
See if he PM or Email.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top of every forum page...)

Site is up.....

are these pics re-hosted again on not?

I can't see anything but a blue outline where pics are supposed to be...

I need this so I can diy without destrying anything... my fiero's doors need to be gone through and will continue to squeak until then,,,

A "great how to" Bump

Very helpful post. But please don't reuse that funky door. There are 100's of them in members garages here that you can use instead. I recently had 4 completely stripped out and totally rust free doors stolen by the scrap metal robbers in the area. And while they were at it they took 10 antique Cub Cadet garden tractors I had too.

quote Originally posted by FieroG97J: . . . doors stolen by the scrap metal robbers in the area. . .

You Too !!!!

quote Originally posted by BMTFIERO: You Too !!!!

Send some over my way... they can have all the scap metal they can haul out of my yard.

Let's take up a collection to buy Fireboom a toolbox

ttt

Thanks for the tutorial, a quick Google search of PFF turned it up, and helped me out today!