Now, you'll be doing the same process with the trim rivets, but some of them may have the center sticking up quite a bit. You can hit them in with a hammer, but some of them just kinda smashed when I did this on the first door, IMO, it's better to grab your pliers and break the center piece.



It makes a clean, flush break that you can center-punch:



Now, center punch these rivets the same way you did the bottom of the door skin:



Once those are out, the trim will fall off later when you flip the door.

Now we proceed to the actual bolts holding the door skin on. The correct size for these is a VT35 Torx bit, but depending on how much of the plastic is inside the bit area, you may need to start with a VT30:



Take it easy, and find the biggest bit that fits it, then unscrew it:





But...
Since this is a rust-prone area, it is possible that they'll just strip and do nothing, no matter what bit you use, which is exactly what happened on most of mine.
No problem, just take a good knife (like my Gerber ) and a hammer, place the blade with the sharp edge just at the rim of the bolt, and tap directly down on the blade with the hammer:



This should cut a nice chunk out of the plastic. Now take your mega-flathead screwdriver, and tap the plastic off like you might if it were a corroded E-clip:

Once the plastic is off, you can leave it alone if you want, because the bolt heads will fit through the mounting holes.
But if you're a bit anal (like me.... ), then just take some mega-pliers (vice-grips would work fine), grab the bolt heads, and unscrew them.
I have no idea what the name is of the tool I'm using, but I found it at a yard sale for $1, and it has been one of my best tools. If you ever find one, BUY IT!!

Next, move to the inner dew wipe. It's pretty self explanatory, but here are the pics:





Remove the screws, that piece will come off, then pull the next piece towards the top of the door (down in the second image).

Removing the mirror *should* be fairly straightforward... I believe those are 10mm nuts, but the only wrench I have around that size is a China-made 3/8" that happened to fit:



Straightforward... for me?? Of course not!! The studs in the mirror started to turn, so the nuts weren't coming off. I was more concerned with saving the door skin than the mirror, so I pulled out my new favorite toy (just got it yesterday ) and here's how I did it:



I just cut into it past where the studs were, and it came right off:

Now, flip the door over and lay it on it's inside surface. For me, the bottom trim piece fell off, but if yours doesn't, just lift "up" on it (ie, towards the top of the door...) and it should slide right off:



Now, we need to finish getting that skin off, and to do that, we need to get the molding off.
Under the door handle, you'll see a small pop fastener. Slide your mega-flathead screwdriver under it, and pop it up:



Now, there's probably a better way to do this, but I just took that end and pulled up very quickly, like ripping a band-aid off. This should snap all the little clips, and the molding should be free:

Now, each one of those little white clips may or may not have a retainer in the center of it. If you see a retainer in it, place a flathead screwdriver on it, and hit it with your palm to break the retainer, and the clips will come right out:



There are two bolts that were underneath the molding, so grab your 7mm socket and take them out:



Now grab the bottom edge of the door skin and lift up, as in literal up :



At the same time, grab the other side (top edge of the skin) and pull towards the top of the door... It's kind of an up-and-over motion, similar to the way the interior door panels go off and on:



Once the door skin kinda pops free, stop pulling and look underneath it. The linkage to the door handle & lock still need to be disconnected:



The lock should have an E-clip on it, but as you can see, mine is completely rusted. So I grabbed my trusty pliers and twisted & yanked until it fell apart, and the linkage came off.
Anyway, the handle linkage has a twist-n-lock plastic retainer on it:



Once you unclip that from the linkage rod, it will pop right out:



And now your door skin is free...



Note the complimentary rat's nest I received in the bottom of mine...

Ok, so now we need to get the glass out...
These rivets can be drilled, but it took me 30 mins to drill one, and about 3mins to sawzall the other. All you need to do is cut off the head of the rivet and the three pieces of the sleeve that spread out:



Just be patient, set your saw to a low speed, and sort of bow the blade into the rivet. If you've ever used a sawzall, then you know exactly what I mean. If not, carefully experiment!
In the above image, you can see the rivet on the right is already done. You just need to get it as flush as you can.

Once that's done, grab your punch again, and center punch the rivets out. Be careful to aim, then tap once. If it doesn't come out, re-aim, then tap once. Other wise you might miss and shatter the window:



Once you've center punched those four large rivets, wedge your mega-flathead under the plastic, and gently pop it free, then grab the top edge of the glass, and pull it out.

Ok, now flip the door back over onto it's outer side, and you'll see a bunch of aluminum rivets, as well as some bolts:



Center punch all of the rivets. You can see here the rivets in the top piece are punched, and the ones in the bottom piece aren't:



Some of them might pop completely out when you punch them, but for the ones that don't, grab a 1/4" drill bit, and drill them out. Use light pressure on the drill, or else the rivet will just start spinning:



While you're drilling, some rivets will come completely out, and some will just break off. In the next image, you can see the small white collars; those are the ones that broke.



Just drill them again, and they should fall completely through:

Once all the rivets are done, grab your 10mm socket and take out every bolt you see. You will here parts dropping into the belly of the door.



Also, go ahead and remove the bolts along the top edge of the door; these are the inner window guides. You want to remove them while the door is in this position so they don't fall back into the pocket they're mounted in:



Once the bolts for those are out, reach in with your fingers and wiggle the guides out until they fall into the belly of the door. For me, it was easiest to reach in and turn them counter-clockwise:





Sorry, my camera hates close-ups!

Now you can start sliding parts out from inside the door:

I'm not removing my hinges because I need them on the door, but if you are, now is the time. Grab your 13mm socket (and I would suggest a large rachet), and take out these bolts:

Lastly, grab that VT30 Torx bit you used earlier, and take out the three screws holding the latching mechanism in place:

And there you have it! Your door that you got from the Pull-A-Part is now ready for whatever you want.