so this is what im planing on doing with my fuel system.

I think you are asking for problems. You only need one regulator and you don't want them to be fighting eachother.

also need a return line "fix", and i dont want to run constant 58psi, else ima have a tuning nightmare.

You are taking the pressure thing too seriously. It'll change that much with engine vacuum. Even alldata saidmspec for the 3900 was between 50 and 60psi.

welp, i just did it, i bit the bullet... im tired and frustrated about not having anywhere or the tools to finish this... i HAVE air tools, just cant use them, my compressor is at my ex-aunts who is in the process of a divorse with my uncle, so i gota feeling i may not see that again, and even if i had it, from my apartment to the street is too far to run an extension cord, or air line (about 30-40yards)...SOOO


new IR cutoff tool for hacking up the brackets i need to lightly modify
http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/521622

and just to make life easyer a new 19.2v 1/2 impact gun
http://www.toolbarn.com/pro...ersollrand/W360-LSP/

im debating on putting my air tools up for sale on craigslist to try and cover some of this cost...

Any Updates?

My (currently n/a) 3500 started Sunday first try. The turbo is going on soon.

-Joseph

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1987 Fiero SE/Fastback - 3500Turbo / 4T60e / OBD1 7730 emulated with Ostrich 2.0

quote Originally posted by 87_special: Any Updates? My (currently n/a) 3500 started Sunday first try. The turbo is going on soon. -Joseph

well i woulda had the old engine out, and the new one ready to go in, except it rained here all weekend.... :/


DONT make the mistake of turboing before you get a good NA tune, youll spend more time trying ot get the tune right then driving it.

what ecu are you using? how are you handling the throttle system, and crank trigger?

welp yet again, engine would be out, got everything disconnected etc, car lowed onto a furniture dolly that seems to fit the cradle perfectly, cherry picker hooked up, and i pumped and pumped and pumped, but it wouldnt lift the car more then 2-3 inches or so, looks like i need to get a new cylinder for it, its leaking out the piston pretty bad.

next weekend is my daughters bday, so ima be busy then *sigh* soon....soon...

had some time to screw around today at work, so i pulled the crank pulley off to put in the 24x sensor, wheel and the 7x trigger and wheel, and good news, my engine has the steel crank

quote Originally posted by hookdonspeed: had some time to screw around today at work, so i pulled the crank pulley off to put in the 24x sensor, wheel and the 7x trigger and wheel, and good news, my engine has the steel crank

Now all you have to do is make enough power for it to matter.

all in good time my friend, i just want to get the engine in first, then ill start up upgrades, i did swap in a set of ls6 valve springs that i dont have written up here, as its not a big deal, and i just did it "to do it" since they were free from a friend, and its not something required to do the swap.

what ign modual / coils did you use on your swap? i just read something upsetting, they say you cant use the 3500 module/coils

i need to get a wiring diagram for the 3500 to see how they are wired, i dont see why they are not useable...

quote Originally posted by hookdonspeed: all in good time my friend, i just want to get the engine in first, then ill start up upgrades, i did swap in a set of ls6 valve springs that i dont have written up here, as its not a big deal, and i just did it "to do it" since they were free from a friend, and its not something required to do the swap. what ign modual / coils did you use on your swap? i just read something upsetting, they say you cant use the 3500 module/coils i need to get a wiring diagram for the 3500 to see how they are wired, i dont see why they are not useable...

Make sure your LS 6 valve spring install is up to spec according to the 60 degree forum or you'll have problems with them moving off the seat and possibly lifting the valve stem seals, they install directly but without the recommended accomodations at some point you may have problems. You can't use the 3500 ignition coil because you are using a 7x trigger which it was not designed for, also apparently the PCM controls timing totally, there is no seperate ignition module such as that found on the 3100 and 3400 ignition assembly which I use. The possible up side to this is if someone can confirm that the 3500 coil pack is strictly a coil pack you maybe able to figure out the wiring and graft it into the pre 3500 engine module and use it remotely.

the 3500 is a coil and module 1 piece design, someone on the 60degree forums said it needed the 58x refrence, and i could give it that, as i still have that sensor in the side of the block, but looking at hte wiring diagram, it does not :/ oh well, few extra $, not a huge deal if it makes life easyer lol..

and yes i did the springs as per the 60degree guys w/ the 2.2l seals etc etc. not a huge upgrade, but from what ive read it will allow it to handle boost a bit more friendly like,a and raise the valve float point to about 6500.

*mumbles about needed a to get the the yard to get some pigtails*

quote Originally posted by hookdonspeed: the 3500 is a coil and module 1 piece design, someone on the 60degree forums said it needed the 58x refrence, and i could give it that, as i still have that sensor in the side of the block, but looking at hte wiring diagram, it does not :/ oh well, few extra $, not a huge deal if it makes life easyer lol.. and yes i did the springs as per the 60degree guys w/ the 2.2l seals etc etc. not a huge upgrade, but from what ive read it will allow it to handle boost a bit more friendly like,a and raise the valve float point to about 6500. *mumbles about needed a to get the the yard to get some pigtails*

I doubt that the ignition coil is a combined unit considering it would be a waste to have to replace both items whenever one fails and also because the number of wires from the coil pack does not support the idea. According to the wiring diagram, the crank sensor feeds directly into the PCM which automatically rules out the idea, instead of into the coil pack which has 6 wires, Bat & GND, 1 wire for each coil pack and a common, no tach wire, no EST bypass wire. The module function is built into the PCM, the wiring diagram refers to the coil pack as ignition control but that appears to be handled specifically by the PCM which you could not utilize the stock crank sensor without.

[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 06-03-2009).]

yea, i was lookong at what, ima grab some 3400 ones from a yard, along with a 3400 upper plenum and fuel rail. :/
ill switch back to the 3500 upper when i get the $ for the larger 65mm TB, the 00+ 3400 has a more even flow pattern then the 3500, but the 3500 allows more volume/flow.

used my lunch and got the 3400 balancer, and the 7x crank trigger on, also took off the exhaust manifolds and unbolted the ignition coil pack.

that bottom bracket that looks all outa place needs to be taken off, its 1/2 off, i cant take it completely off while the motors sitting on the wood box thing, as another bracket that bolts there is holding the engine up.
edit: if you look really closely, you can see the 24x sensor behind the crank pulley, and the pigtail coming from behind it, the 3500 timing cover has all the gooves and bolt holes to bolt it right up.




heres a pic of the 3500 manifolds someone asked for. the front manifold points down, where the rear points down and back.


and this is the weirdest evap solenoid ive ever see, its removed in the pic, but it like fits onto a big rubber boot like thing... (to the right of the TB and left of the EGR)

[This message has been edited by hookdonspeed (edited 06-11-2009).]

my junkyard run was a pretty good sucess, except the fact that the only 3400 engine they had was on a 96 pontiac transport

got the TB, and fuel rail from that, the look to be in good condition, probably sending the injectors out the be tested.
also got 80% of the pigtails i needed.

only think left is the exhaust mani's

Did you drop the existing engine out yet? Let me know if you need a hand...

:P see https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/076359.html

cleaned up the junkyard throttlebody and painted it, wish i got a before shot, this this was caked up gook, and just nasty looking... used 2+2 guncutter to cleanup the plate and insides, same on the outside, and painted it

Does anyone have any pictures about how they did there exhaust for this engine or the 3400. I am going to need to modify mine so its not completely retarded. And some pictures or drawings would definitely help.

quote Originally posted by MDFierolvr: Does anyone have any pictures about how they did there exhaust for this engine or the 3400. I am going to need to modify mine so its not completely retarded. And some pictures or drawings would definitely help.

I believe there is a traditional wrap around version of that exhaust system that exits to the rear on some applications.

getting mine tuned very very soon. cant wait! gotta fix some new errors. code 42, exhaust needs to be welded back up the right way and fix a motor mount.

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First LX9 Fiero GT, 1987 | My Fiero Fuel Economy | MPG Display for OBD I
Youtube Videos of My GT | 87 GT Inside Test Run | 3500 Fiero GT Test Run 01
3500 Fiero GT Test Run 02 | 3500 Fiero GT Test Run 03 | 3500 Fiero GT Test Run 04
modernize your fiero with technology!
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem
Fiero's are people too. We pay just as much attention to them, if not more than our loved ones
screw paying those bastards. im not going to become rich by paying for things.....

im doing my exhaust like this
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...1/HTML/071783-4.html

since im using 3400 mani's it should work just fine, ill have to change it when i turbo, but that should be perfect for now..

turbo i was thinking just flip the muffler over, and put the turbo in the Xover pipe then down into the muffler? idk, deal w/ that when it comes to it

FINALLY got around to working on my car again....
got the engine out... well.. kinda... after having to cut the front right cradle bolt out, on not just one side, but both as it was siezed to the sleve....

(btw, what a pita that is!)






and.. lesson learned today? ALWAYS CHECK YOUR LIFT FOR OIL BEFORE STARTING... yep.. i got the car that high, and wouldnt go anyhigher, jack was outa oil in the engine lift, and i didnt have any ... so i lowered the car down, will resume work this weekend....


i know, not much to look at, but, it was good to work on it again...

quote Originally posted by hookdonspeed: FINALLY got around to working on my car again.... got the engine out... well.. kinda... after having to cut the front right cradle bolt out, on not just one side, but both as it was siezed to the sleve....

Oh thank God................................... I thought I was the only who had to cut those bolts out.

quote Originally posted by OH10fiero: Oh thank God................................... I thought I was the only who had to cut those bolts out.

i had to cut the left front outa my last fiero, but just the nut off.... luckly *knock on wood* i havent had a probalem w/ the rear cradlebolts on any of my cars yet.

old engines fully out after getting a new piston for the lift.


heres the 3500, with the 3400 fuelrail and the TB adapter bolted on, you can see that the fpr "touches" the 3500's intake neck, WOT sells an adapter bracket that will move this to where the touching is minor at most.... i made my own by using the old one and grinding/cutting it to work... hopefully it stays put, it should :P

and ofcourse heres the classic in enginebay pic..

wiring fun..

i de-pined the stock 3500 harness, and am going to put the pins into the connector for the 98 ecu. same type of pin, will make some of the wiring alot easyer.

also put in poly bushings into the cradle, just because it was apart and the old ones didnt look to great. and well, the one needed to be changed as the bolt was siezed into the sleeve in it...



fire is fun...


rolled the engine back under the car, and went to mount the cradle back up, and thats when the rear cradle nut decided to brake free.... look like ima have to call on saxmans method of repair :/

[This message has been edited by hookdonspeed (edited 05-17-2010).]

well the busted cradle bolt issue... i had always though my car didnt have much rust, i was right, i cut open the frame, it didnt rust apart like most, the nut crossthreaded, and the thin metal cage holding that floating nut, well, busted apart when i put some force into it.. im really shocked at how thing that cage thing is.... nowonder why people have issues with them having rusted away..



i was feeling kinda under the weather today for some reason, so that bout all i got done, i temp bolted it all in w/ just a nut and washer, and put the wheels back on, least the cars sitting on its own 4 wheels and not jackstands. will post pics of rodneys repair for the cradle nut when i put them in next week.

did get some wiring done.

did he ever get this done?

sorry, just getting back to working on it again, working outside, i had to put everythign on hold for the winter, ill update this later with current status and pics. the engines in, fuelsystems done, wiring is 80% done, and just picked up the stuff for the coolant system..

ok, new pics from today.. (this will show how much i didnt touch it all winter)

wiring almost done, just need to run grounds and wires back to the c500


just a random pic of the car.. needs new rear bumper and taillights, anyone wana donate? :P
[img]http://dl.dropbox.com/u/17722872/car/IMG_20110605_143042.jpg [/img]

As always, looking forward to see your progress with the swap to compare to mine. I think it's interesting how we're both doing close to the same swap on just about the exact same car but with some obvious differences. Which transmission are you using again? The 4 speed? I was trying to hook up my 2 shift cables today and the thermostat housing neck and engine hoist bracket thing is getting in the way. Not too bad but it isn't giving me the straight shot I want. Looking to see how yours work out.

quote Originally posted by KaijuSenso: As always, looking forward to see your progress with the swap to compare to mine. I think it's interesting how we're both doing close to the same swap on just about the exact same car but with some obvious differences. Which transmission are you using again? The 4 speed? I was trying to hook up my 2 shift cables today and the thermostat housing neck and engine hoist bracket thing is getting in the way. Not too bad but it isn't giving me the straight shot I want. Looking to see how yours work out.

yea, i got the 4speed muncie
im bout to order a new shift bracket friday then ill let you know.(yep, the good ol 4speed bracket broke) i just finished up the coolant lines, and ran the vac line for the brake booster, and shot sinister performance an e-mail about getting my ecu flashed.. also got a buncha obd2 scan software from a torrent site, hopefully one of them will be able to log nicely for darth...

just did a first start attempt...
failed.. checked all connections, looked good, tested the spark, good, testing the injectors, getting pulse.... just used the fuel pump to empty the old gas, *checks pressure* awwww DADvvdvewfgwdavdsvdvadfA 25PSI, not going above that clamed return line off, still only 25psi... looks like pumps bad *sigh*

My 2005 Malibu is a V6 3500. I love to drive this car. It gets 35 MPG with the AC on driving 70 mph between Dallas and Houston .I have wondered about doing this same swap. Wife would kill me if she knew I was even thinking about it.

Try a table spoon of fuel in the TB and try the key. Might just fool you.

-Joe

Edited to add, it has electric power steering also !!

[This message has been edited by josef644 (edited 07-24-2011).]

quote Originally posted by josef644: My 2005 Malibu is a V6 3500. I love to drive this car. It gets 35 MPG with the AC on driving 70 mph between Dallas and Houston .I have wondered about doing this same swap. Wife would kill me if she knew I was even thinking about it. Try a table spoon of fuel in the TB and try the key. Might just fool you. -Joe Edited to add, it has electric power steering also !!

it turns over w/ a shot of starting fluid, im guessing thats similar to the fuel in the TB?

If the rubber hose between the pump and hard line splits inside the tank then you will get low pressure.

Also check your pump is getting 12 volts.

Just a couple suggestions before buying a new pump.

[This message has been edited by Hudini (edited 07-24-2011).]