After installing the factory spoiler, the decklid was simply too heavy to be held up by the original torsion bars.

Grab yourself a gas strut bar from an automotive shop; I purchased mine from Canadian Tire.


This code should give you a strut that is 16 inches fully extended.


Remove the first of the three bolts on the bracket connected to the decklid; shown here is the passenger side bolt.


Since the original bolt is too short, get yourself one of these bolts; the upper portion is threadless (sleeve).


Remove the bolt that is closest to you; if you do not remove it, space will be very limited.


Drill a hole (15/64') about an inch away from the bolt you removed in the previous step; just to be clear, this is the bracket holding the grill vent.


Grab yourself another bolt about 3.5 inches long; sleeved 2 cm's and threaded 1 cm.


This is how is should look like from the inside of the bracket.


Some additional pictures:




This can be done for less than 35 bucks Canadian. Have fun!

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1986 GT Fiero Owner & Enthusiast
For Fiero updates, visit my site http://gt.ppdictionary.com

[This message has been edited by chrismclubm (edited 08-20-2010).]

thanks this was of much help.
I'm making a run out to get the parts!

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1986 FIERO SE V6 76K Miles Auto Power everything with all options (daily driver)
1988 FIERO Coupe "IRON DUKE" 5-Speed (the show car ;-)
1992 Firebird T-Tops V-8 24k original Florida miles(collectors car)

A PLUS for you sir!

I will add this to my "bucket list" of the Fiero!

Thanks for the info on the part number of the strut. I've been meaning to do this for a while but got discouraged at the shear number of gas struts there are out there. Remember elementary school... I give you a gold star.

I was seriously about to do this and make a write up this summer.

btw, what's the compressed length of the strut?

It should be noted that there are torque struts with different stiffnesses. It will be harder to close the decklid on some, easier on others. My setup is similar to this one with the exception that I chose to use a stud on the decklid bolt location. This way I can maintain the fastening strength of the nut (by tightening the nut on the stud) and then by placing a washer then the strut, then another washer and finally a lock nut tightened on the end just so that all play is removed. This keeps the strut away from the decklid and prevents scratching. On the bottom side I use a bolt that goes through the air grill bracket side a nut to hold it in place then a washer the strut another washer and finally a lock nut on that end. Its slightly more elaborate than the method shown here but I do believe it has merit. Note that thiis will only work on GT's as the strut will interfere with the notchback deck lid if it is done this way. I will post the different strut numbers later on when I can look them up and ifyou don't want to go through the trouble of DIY, Rodney Dickman makes a complete kit that fits and works perfectly.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

You might want to add some washers and/or bushings, so those bolts can be tightened correctly, without stripping.

[This message has been edited by avengador1 (edited 06-01-2009).]

quote Originally posted by avengador1: You might want to add some washers and/or bushings, so those bolts can be tightened correctly, without stripping.

I added a washer before adding the nut, but the image shown was taken earlier.

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1986 GT Fiero Owner & Enthusiast
For Fiero updates, visit my site http://educatorstop15.com/fieropage.htm

You have a PM.....

Ingenious. Price was right also.

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WHen choosing a lift strut careful consideration should be given to the amount of closing force required to put the deck lid down. Too hard of a lifr struct will place excesive pressure on the air grill bracket.
These are all available at autozone. Here are the part numbers that I've used:
Lift-O-Mat 92502 This is one that I have settled on as its not too stiff
Possible alternatives
Lift-O-Mat 92522
Lift-O-Mat 95112

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Bump. I plan on doing this tomorrow.

For Tony Kania and anyone else adding a strut in the future this may be of help.

I just finished adding one to my '87 GT.
This is the very specific information about the strut needed.

Thanks to Dennis LaGrua for helping me locate the exact to use.

The strut for those who want to get one real cheap in a salvage yard the application is:
Hood strut for a 1984 to 2008 Buick Century Wagon or Sedan, any size engine.

To get a new strut from the supplier of your choice these are the various parts numbers and suppliers and there current prices:

RockAuto
http://tinyurl.com/opf58
Application: 1985 : BUICK : CENTURY ESTATE WAGON (X) : Body
Main Category: Body-Exterior
Subcategory: Lift Support
SACHS Part # SG330003
Usage: Hood
Eyelet Tube Fitting: Locking Eyelet Rod Fitting
Length: Extended: 15"
Compressed: Length: 9"
Price: $9.81

=================
http://tinyurl.com/mmuphq
Auto Zone
Part Number: SG330003
Weight: 0.532 lbs
Description: Gas-Charged Lift Support
Extended Length: 390
Compressed Length: 240
Rod Diameter: 8
Tube Diameter: 18
Rod End Fitting: Locking Eyelet
Tube End Fitting: Eyelet
Price: $24.99

==================

Advanced Auto
http://tinyurl.com/m2ef7z
Mfgr: Strong Arm Lift Support
Part No. 4428
Extended Length: 15 3/8
Compressed Length: ?
Offer Price: $15.99
This fits: 1985 Buick Century Estate Wagon 3.0L 181CI
================

http://tinyurl.com/ny7alg
Napa
Part: Hood Lift Support
Part No: BK 8195241
Product Line: Balkamp
Price: $20.69

=====

http://tinyurl.com/lclw9v
O'Reilley
Mfgr: MIGHTY LIFT - HOOD SUPPORT (96-78 BUICK CENTURY)
Item #: 95053
Offer Price: $15.99

Brian
****************

what about adding dual struts...i'm sure this wouldn't make a difference in terms of length but what about the stiffness...does anyone have any information as to what struts you would need to use for a dual strut application?

This is really one of the more informative writeups that we have at our disposal. Thanks to Chrismclubm, Dennis LaGrua, and Brian99 for the breakdown of the strut numbers. I personally used the Strong Arm Lift Support unit #4428 that I found at my local Schuck's. The writeup by Chrismclubm was spot on as far as how to do this fairly easy install. I have been using an adjustable rod for years now. Now, I have a shiney new lift strut. It has improved my life substantially. Life's possibilities are now endless.


I needed to take a pick of how I did this. I also thought that having a nut on the deck support would keep up the structural integrity. The way that I came up with also lets the strut rotate on the bolts so as not to cause the strut to bind.



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[This message has been edited by Tony Kania (edited 07-09-2009).]

Very nice! Excellent thread and contributions.

My lift setup is similar but I preferred to retain the holding force of the rear bolt on the deck lid bracket.
I purchased a long bolt the same size of the one removed. Cut the threaded portion off and used this as a stud that screwed into the deck lid rear bracket hole. Then added a nut to secure the deck hinge bracket firmly to the deck. Then placed a washer, the strut end, another washer and finally a lock nut on the end of the stud and sized it accordingly.
On the other side I drilled a hole in the vent bracket and placed a bolt right through from the inside. Used a nut to hold this to the bracket (making it act as a stud), then added the washer, strut, another washer and lock nut on that end too. If this is not self explanatory I can post pics on request.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

quote Originally posted by Tony Kania: This is really one of the more informative writeups that we have at our disposal. Thanks to Chrismclubm, Dennis LaGrua, and Brian99 for the breakdown of the strut numbers. I personally used the Strong Arm Lift Support unit #4428 that I found at my local Schuck's. The writeup by Chrismclubm was spot on as far as how to do this fairly easy install. I have been using an adjustable rod for years now. Now, I have a shiney new lift strut. It has improved my life substantially. Life's possibilities are now endless. I needed to take a pick of how I did this. I also thought that having a nut on the deck support would keep up the structural integrity. The way that I came up with also lets the strut rotate on the bolts so as not to cause the strut to bind.

Thank you for your wonderful comments, really glad I could help.

------------------
1986 GT Fiero Owner & Enthusiast
For Fiero updates, visit my site http://educatorstop15.com/fieropage.htm

This was a great writeup guys...........thanks

I used it to fashion the strut on my notchback, it fastens to the decklid the same, but I made a bracket out of angle aluminum and mounted it on the underside of the vent support.

quote Originally posted by Tony Kania: It has improved my life substantially. Life's possibilities are now endless.

Thats quite a strut! I'm going to pick one up even though I don't have a need for it!

quote Originally posted by Fieroseverywhere: Thats quite a strut! I'm going to pick one up even though I don't have a need for it!

Well.. I am going add this to mine in the spring... I dont need an stiff one.. just one to keep the lid from closing on me when there is a bit of a breeze out while in the engine/trunk..!! Dang thing hurts!!!

has any one done this to the passenger side as well? to mix things up and add some confusion, what is done about the people with 3800 swaps that have to notch the decklid so it can close because of the alternator? my 3500, i had to notch the decklid the same way.

------------------
First LX9 Fiero GT, 1987 | My Fiero Fuel Economy | MPG Display for OBD I
Youtube Videos of My GT | modernize your fiero with technology!
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem
Fiero's are people too. We pay just as much attention to them, if not more than our loved ones
screw paying those bastards. im not going to become rich by paying for things.....

Hey everybody , !! I just finished installing strut # 4428 in my '87 GT. What a great idea !! For the last 4 years I have been using a golf club to hold the decklid and spoiler up. The right side torsion bar was snapped. This was the way I had bought the car. I installed a used bar that I found on e-bay, but the lid would not stay up. I have a for sale sign in the window, and was showing the engine to a prospective buyer just the other day. Imagine how embarassed I was when I had to put that golf club to hold the lid up. Well now, thanks to your great idea the golf club is in the house and the lid stays up on it's own. Woweeee !!!!!!! Thanks to all you guys for your ideas and input. Keep up the good work !! Ernie

Can someone post the pressure values of the struts? Here in Germany I have different manufactures.

does anybody know of a strut that will hold up the GT deck lid with no torsion bars ?
i had to remove mine for some reason (cant remember)
i may be able to use a dual setup but im worried my turbo will over heat it
it should be noted that there are 2 kinds of struts

gas springs (they open full force really fast)
gas damper (they are valved to open slowly)

id prefer the damper type if possible

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87 Fiero GT 5sp with Vortec L35 4300 Turbocharged V6
Bully Stage 2 clutch
Syclone intake manifold and engine management with Moates adapter and chip burner
Air/water intercooler and Devil's Own progressive water/alky injection
50lb injectors, 3 bar map sensor, Walboro fuel pump and Jabasco Intercooler pump
LM1 wideband on custom manifolds and 3" stainless exhaust system
T31/T04B H3 turbo and a S10 caliper conversion.
Murphy's Constant Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value
Murphy's Law of Thermodynamics Things get worse under pressure.
Arthur C. Clarke "Any significantly advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic"

bump

------------------



87 Fiero GT 5sp with Vortec L35 4300 Turbocharged V6
Bully Stage 2 clutch
Syclone intake manifold and engine management with Moates adapter and chip burner
Air/water intercooler and Devil's Own progressive water/alky injection
50lb injectors, 3 bar map sensor, Walboro fuel pump and Jabasco Intercooler pump
LM1 wideband on custom manifolds and 3" stainless exhaust system
T31/T04B H3 turbo and a S10 caliper conversion.
Murphy's Constant Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value
Murphy's Law of Thermodynamics Things get worse under pressure.
Arthur C. Clarke "Any significantly advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic"

I used a stick to hold my decklid open for years. One of my torsion bar ends broke, and the decklid is only supported by one side of the torsion bar. I am very happy with the results of using one strut. But, I definately see how two would be needed to lift and support the decklid with no torsion spring. I am sure that if the other side of the torsion bar were to break, I would just install another strut onto the battery side of the engine bay.


Tony

EDIT: Brian99 posted up a good variety of suppliers earlier in the thread. There has to be some of the information that you need there. Good luck.
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[This message has been edited by Tony Kania (edited 12-27-2009).]

update:
the strut mentioned in this article will hold up a GT lid with stock wing but it seems a strong gust of wind may close the lid
since anything under 7/8 up the lids comes down slowly then a little faster...
today im going to try two of the struts... i want the lid to go up when i hit the button

c

quote Originally posted by Australian: I don't know what to look for locally as every mod i have seen was using another american car part that costs the earth in delivery i would like to know strut length closed and open as every part number i find seems to be located in usa. I can buy these things for like $20 local at wreckers if i knew what other car i could pull them off. Anyone used japanese?

That number only crosses to another GM vehicle http://www.glsautoparts.com...c=116270&i=201160256

But I found dimensions for PN 4428 http://www.rockauto.com/cat...einfo.php?pk=1807148
and here 130 lbs lift: http://www.autopartsbylou.c...nvert=4428&type=part

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My World of Wheels Winners (Click on links below)

3.4L Supercharged 87 GT and Super Duty 4 Indy #163

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 04-13-2010).]

Outstanding write up, I just installed one on a 86 se loosely using the desructions, although I had to make a bracket for the strut because mine is a notchie it was an easy install. Thanks for the help!! Works like a charm!

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If I only had ONE more part it will be finished...... famous last words.....

Were there actually different torsion bars for cars without spoliers?
I thought that they all had the same torsion rods but the retaining pin was in different holes depending on the weight of the deck lid.

Either way, nice write-up for those wanting gas struts. +'s for all...

For those that are just adding a spoiler, be sure that your torsion springs are adjusted for the maximum lift before you resort to adding struts. You might not need them.
This is easy and free.

Hook a tie-down strap to the squared off bottom of one of the torsion rods under the hinge bracket.



Pull up the trunk gasket up and hook the other end of the strap over the metal flange under the trunk gasket.


As you pull the torsion spring toward the trunk, the retaining pin can be moved to another hole.
Toward the front of the car is soft.
Toward the rear of the car gives more lift.

Carefully release the spring. It will have a LOT of tension on it.

Don't forget to do the other side too.

Bump!! Awesome write-up!!!

Bump to add to favorites

Anybody ever do this to the hood?

[This message has been edited by DLCLK87GT (edited 02-21-2011).]

great write up but i have to ask whats the point of them unless your removing your torsion bars? because the torsion bars already hold up the lid this just seems like unnecessary equipment.

I fabbed up dual gas struts for the hood of my car. Very good mod, worth it. I removed the torsion bars and bought a strut set up from rodney for my decklid. Works great but I had to modify it for the passenger side as my turbo plumbing is in the way on the drivers side.

if i were to add dual struts, one on each side, would this be enough lift to keep the lip up w/o using the trosion bars at all? i'm wanting to remove mine....thanks

quote Originally posted by deezil: Bump!! Awesome write-up!!!

Wow, Citizen Kane, I haven't seen a clip from that movie in a long time.

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Jim Martin
White '86 GT
California

I Just Did that to BOTH my Notchbacks. I got 2 struts from the boneyard for $5 ! It took a total Of 1 1/2 hrs TOTAL To remove the brackets, weld on "Tabs" & install the whole thing ON BOTH CARS !! Everything should be That Easy ! What an improvement, "No More "STICK"!

I just did both sides on my 87 GT with a 3800sc installed. Since the 3800 is in there I had to take off the stock parts take hold the decklid up. I put autozone part number 95053 on my car and it seems that every time I raise the decklid its putting way too much force on the vent brackets. Did I do something wrong? Or is this normal?

I bought a hood prop rod from the junkyard for $2. Works great and was very cheap. Will not wear out either like the gas charged struts.