The cutting out @ 4K is probably a factory overboost type failsafe. An easy way to see if a wastegate is failing is to just look @ your boost gauge, if its boosting WAY over what its supposed to be, that would be the 1st place I would look. Is it throwing any codes? is it really boosting 10psi? What are they rated for from the factory (boost wise) ? Sick freakin' swap man, keep us updated.

it is. been there, done that. just working on a way to fix it, now. ordering a new wastegate actuator, eventually, and it should fix it all up. when we jump on it, it hops up to 6, then 7, then 8, 9, 10, and then back to 0. it's definately the cut off.

anyway, as far as the "bashing," i was just jokin' around. that's really not bashing at all, i know.

why am i going back to it? idk.

lol.

anyway, just a reminder; the shrike will be at daytona, this weekend, for the turkey rod run. anybody going?

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"Be not led astray, bretheren beloved..." -James 1:16.


Thanks, Danyel, for the graphic.

[This message has been edited by Mr_jacob7 (edited 11-24-2009).]

my uncle ("Barely_Fittin", here on the forums) just got me a KAT Matrix for an early birthday/Christmas present. it's this dash tool that measure g-forces, 0-60, and 1/4 miles. after playing around with it, and if it's accurate, we got a 0-60 of roughly 5.65 seconds. we couldn't do a full 1/4 mile run, because os silly things like speed limits, but we'll take it up to gainseville, soon, and get a full set of tests, and the such.

Happy Thanksgiving!

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"Be not led astray, bretheren beloved..." -James 1:16.


Thanks, Danyel, for the graphic.

quote Originally posted by Mr_jacob7: it is. been there, done that. just working on a way to fix it, now. ordering a new wastegate actuator, eventually, and it should fix it all up. when we jump on it, it hops up to 6, then 7, then 8, 9, 10, and then back to 0. it's definately the cut off. anyway, as far as the "bashing," i was just jokin' around. that's really not bashing at all, i know. why am i going back to it? idk. lol. anyway, just a reminder; the shrike will be at daytona, this weekend, for the turkey rod run. anybody going?

The wastegate solenoid or tubing could be where the problem is also. If it's clogged or not sealing properly it could cause overboost which for the TGP code will hit the programmed limit of just over 10psi. Default for the solenoid is direct to actuator signal if I'm not mistaken so that in the event of a failure the wastegate should open at it's set limit. For performance improvement you may want to look into replacing that T25 with a T3 for better breathing and efficiency at both ends of the turbo. With a little creativity you should be able to modify a T3 flange and bolt it directly to the T25 flange to mount the replacement turbo. They are pretty cheap on Ebay and in much better than previous import quality. I wouldn't trust the larger import turbos though. It's no secret that the stock turbo is grossly undersized for that engine, especially when you consider the Ford 2.3L was fitted with a T3 .60/.63 turbine model.

You made a great choice for a base platform. Over time you can upgrade to the later design parts, heads etc or even better a 3100 if interested in more performance without a drastic change from what you already have. The car looks good.

It only hits the cut under power? Can you bring it to redline using light throttle?

Turkey Run was great. took some pics. dinner's waiting, so i gotta make it quick. :]

check this thread, for more pics:

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/078585.html

ALSO; check out the "Shrike" sticker on the back window. that's new. it's in the other thread, in the middle picture.



(EDIT) Here's a picture of the "Shrike" sticker on the window... (Sorry for bad quality)


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"Be not led astray, bretheren beloved..." -James 1:16.


Thanks, Danyel, for the graphic.

[This message has been edited by Mr_jacob7 (edited 11-27-2009).]

I'm back. :]

sorry. I've been having too much fun with it, but it's pretty much all done. still working out some kinks, such as the VSS isn't working, yet, and other little things...

here's two new videos, and some pictures:









Just as a little FYI, we'll be at Daytona, in March. :]

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"Be not led astray, bretheren beloved..." -James 1:16.


Thanks, Danyel, for the graphic.

You must be congratulated on completing one of the most unique Fiero engine swaps in existence. If everything is set up correctly you should pull some respectable times. Any plans to do any 1/4 mile runs

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

thanks for the kudos. :]

we're planning on taking it up to gainseville international speedway, once it opens, but we're having problems, still with the wastegate actuator opening. if you stomp it, the fuel cuts off, still. once it's fixed, though, we'll definately post some times.

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"Be not led astray, bretheren beloved..." -James 1:16.


Thanks, Danyel, for the graphic.

quote Originally posted by Mr_jacob7: thanks for the kudos. :] we're planning on taking it up to gainseville international speedway, once it opens, but we're having problems, still with the wastegate actuator opening. if you stomp it, the fuel cuts off, still. once it's fixed, though, we'll definately post some times.

Fuel cuts off at W.O.T. -strange . I don't understand how the wastegate could affect the fuel supply in this fashion. The waste gate is just a boost limiting device. DId you play with the program in any way? Are you scanning to see what the O2 sensor reads? My guess is that you may be mistaking a bog for a fuel cut off situation. I would buy a good scanning program and run a complete analysis of what is happening.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, 3.4" Pulley, N* TB, LS1 MAF, Flotech Exhaust Autolite 104's Custom CAI 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

If you are hitting a boost cut, then you will be throwing an overboost code. If the WG IS opening then you shouldnt have boost cut issues. If the WG isnt opening then you have the problems.

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2008 Kawasaki Z1000.
2006 Subaru B9 Tribeca.
1996 Subaru Impreza L-T -201 awhp 213 awtq- 200+k miles. Stock internals.
1984 Pontiac Fiero 2M4.
1981 Oldsmobile Cutlass. 307
1980 Oldsmobile Cutlass. 455

Hopefully i'll have some input for you soon.
Finally got the TGP into my shop,just need to pull the engine and trans now.
Time is what's killing me.
I hope to have the powertrain pulled by next week,then i'll move it to my garage and freshen up the engine,turbo and trans.
Time permitting maybe my 3.1 mclaren turbo fiero will be ready to meet it's brother in march.

I'm going to upgrade the injectors and turbo probrably though (already have the injectors) and see if I can't pull 350hp before I push the nitrous.

In fact,instead of bs'ing on the forum i'll go out to the shop.
Hopefully see ya in march!

Sounds nice

*ERRRRRCH!!!!* engage all discs...

okay, it's not the waste gate, or actuator. my 17-yr-old ignorace strikes again!

it's actually the simple fact that we dont have the electronic boost control valve hooked up, right. vacuum is all wierd, right now, because we've got no diagram, and it wasn't hooked up, and we're just playing with it, and this is a lot of 'and's.

does anybody here happen to have a 3.1l turbo vacuum diagram handy? because we don't, and we're a little stuck.

thanks, guys.

if there aren't any diagrams, does anybody at least excersize? excersize? ecksereserisireze?

(for some reason, we were wondering how to spell excercise, because i never can, and my dad was like "why are you asking if they exsersyze?" thought i should share the fun.)

anyway, does anybody know where the electronic boost control valve's three hoses go? if you do, then please share. scooby? eddie? grue? you guys have.had engines. were your hoses all on? they should be... ours didn't come in the car, so it was all a mess.

okay, i do believe that all that's left is pointless rambles. thanks in advance for any help.

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"Be not led astray, bretheren beloved..." -James 1:16.


Thanks, Danyel, for the graphic.

[This message has been edited by Mr_jacob7 (edited 01-11-2010).]

I see you are running the 7727 ECM. What code are you using, $8F?

I ask because I ran into an overboost problem with $8F before I modified the .xdf file to accept up to 15 psi. As downloaded it's about ten psi.

quote Originally posted by Mr_jacob7: *ERRRRRCH!!!!* engage all discs... okay, it's not the waste gate, or actuator. my 17-yr-old ignorace strikes again! it's actually the simple fact that we dont have the electronic boost control valve hooked up, right. vacuum is all wierd, right now, because we've got no diagram, and it wasn't hooked up, and we're just playing with it, and this is a lot of 'and's. does anybody here happen to have a 3.1l turbo vacuum diagram handy? because we don't, and we're a little stuck. thanks, guys. if there aren't any diagrams, does anybody at least excersize? excersize? ecksereserisireze? (for some reason, we were wondering how to spell excercise, because i never can, and my dad was like "why are you asking if they exsersyze?" thought i should share the fun.) anyway, does anybody know where the electronic boost control valve's three hoses go? if you do, then please share. scooby? eddie? grue? you guys have.had engines. were your hoses all on? they should be... ours didn't come in the car, so it was all a mess. okay, i do believe that all that's left is pointless rambles. thanks in advance for any help.

You might be able to use trial and error to iron it out. I believe one of the fittings is just to bleed off air. Default (un energized) setting should allow direct passage of vacuum and boost to the wastegate actuator which has a limited max allowable psi. Energized should divert boost pressure to the bleed fitting until desired boost pressure is reached, so if you energize the solenoid while blowing through the input fitting you should be able to note the change in fittings that the air escapes from. The bleed air usually passes through a lilttle filter fitted to the solenoid. When the boost pressure setting is increased in the chip the solenoid is energized in a pulsatile manner limiting the boost signal to the wastegate actuator until desired boost is reached.

I could be wrong but this is the conclusion I arrived at when I experimented with it. Having it connected in the opposite manner would allow for overboost to occur in the event the solenoid failed since no boost signal would be allowed to pass through to the wastegate actuator.

I believe Toddster has a 3.1 TGP for sale in the mall, he may be able to take a pic for you or something, depending on how visible the line routing is.

Just so happens before I started pulling things off yesterday I took a buttload of pics.
Not sure I got any of the boost control,if it's the solenoid on the front I think I did-if the one on the back i'm not sure.
I'll upload and post the pics,and get some more up if it doesn't have what you need.
I'll post a link to my photobucket for you when they are uploaded.

def, you're awesome. the rest of you, too, but pics are awesome. :]

as perfect as the pictures are, though, i can't follow the lines through the rest of the pictures.

where do each of these hoses end up?


once more: you're awesome. if there's any info/help you need, i owe it to ya. ;]

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"Be not led astray, bretheren beloved..." -James 1:16.


Thanks, Danyel, for the graphic.

[This message has been edited by Mr_jacob7 (edited 01-12-2010).]

1 and 3 are going to the "Y" to whatever that is under the turbo.
2 is going to the wastegate.

That's going off the pictures,I will go out tomorrow morning and verify.

[This message has been edited by DefEddie (edited 01-13-2010).]

quote Originally posted by DefEddie: 1 and 3 are going to the "Y" to whatever that is under the turbo. 2 is going to the wastegate. That's going off the pictures,I will go out tomorrow morning and verify.

tried this set-up, and it was even worse, than before. :\

back-fire scared the crap outa me. lol.

I have the vacuum diagram, but PIP isn't working tonight. Send me your email and I'll send it to you like that

I'll try to find time to stop by the Chevy dealer on lunch (previously also a pontiac dealer).
They are right across from my Ford dealer and let me look up info on their books if I need.
I'll take a pic of the service manual if I can find it.
Unfortunately they won't sell me their manual's,i've tried already.

Their service writer is our service writer's brother,comes in handy.

I was just looking through your thread and the build looks good and well executed. Looking through your pics I didn't notice, or maybe i missed it, a dog bone to control engine movement. My question is how are you controlling that? Are you using solid mounts? [if so, sorry I missed it] If you're not using solid mounts how are you controlling the engine movement? I would think that engine would move around quite a bit under acceleration and braking. If I missed something obvious let me know how you're controlling it. Thanks, Chris

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88blackchopv8

quote Originally posted by av8fiero: I was just looking through your thread and the build looks good and well executed. Looking through your pics I didn't notice, or maybe i missed it, a dog bone to control engine movement. My question is how are you controlling that? Are you using solid mounts? [if so, sorry I missed it] If you're not using solid mounts how are you controlling the engine movement? I would think that engine would move around quite a bit under acceleration and braking. If I missed something obvious let me know how you're controlling it. Thanks, Chris

I believe Rodney Dickmans poly mounts would do well without a dogbone. I had to fabricate my own mounts for the 6 speed swap and I used the poly rear trans mount used for rear wheel drive trannies at all 3 points without a dogbone and they hold the drivetrain in place without a dogbone very well particularly because they are interlocking. I'm going to install reinforcement anyway at some point.

alright, cool, guys.

thumper, thanks a bunch. PM sent. and awesome find, btw. It's a quick, little motor with plenty of power. the 2800 S/C has another 40 Hp on it, but both can be modded. the McLaren has a chip (Top-Gun) that you can put in the ECM, and it'll boost it, real easily. http://www.turbograndprix.c...performance_chip.htm

@Def
lol. ford-chevy connections; nice.

@chris
no, you're right. it moves a bunch, and our problem is that the dogbone mount of the engine is on the opposite side of the mount for the car. it does move a bit, so, temporarily, we're using a 2x4 to hold the engine in place. it's rigged, we know, and its shamelessly painted black, as if nobody will know...

we're fabricating one, now, and it should be done today. if we get it in, and it works, i'll put some pictures.

A great source for service information is the ALLDATA database if you still need diagrams or troubleshooting info. They have a lot of what is in a factory shop manual. It is too expensive to buy, but it might be available at your local library. Our library has it, but it is limited to in library access only, but you can print pages though.
Jim

quote Originally posted by Mr_jacob7:

I know this would not be easy to redo,but I would recommend you reroute the fuel lines. Even with that blanket, you are going to get some serious heat in that location. I still see some bear exhaust pipe and that fuel filter is a HUGE heat sink just sitting there. And that return fuel line single clamped to a single flare fuel pipe looks "stressed?
I would hate to see all that work go up in flames.

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You can get a better cleaner line by flipping the fuel rail around and using the v6 lines and filter.

Did you get the email about the vacuum line routing? Hope it helps ya out.

yeah, thump. we got the e-mail, but that was the vaccuum for the N/A 3.1

:\

thanks, anyway, though.

we're still moving the lines around, and changing things. pretty sure the actual actuator is leaking pressure, which may also screw up the whole thing, but idk... we're ordering a manual boost control valve to play with. good ole' ebay. :]

can't beat 12 bucks with free shipping.

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"Be not led astray, bretheren beloved..." -James 1:16.


Thanks, Danyel, for the graphic.

quote Originally posted by mattwa: I'll take one.

actually, we were browsing different sites, and check this deal out:

http://modifiedcartrader.co...spx?itemNumber=16394

that's a STEAL.

(EDIT)

Also, a little update on where I'm at:

just ordered a new wastegate actuator. should be in, next week. then, we'll see what this baby it really made of.

looking on ebay, however, i came across a t3/t4 turbocharger, for $165! I had thought that this was going to be around $1000, but i guess i was way off. they're dirt-cheap. idk where i got that notion from.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymot...fPartsQ5fAccessories

that might not be too far off, as it's just a bolt-on thing. would be very cool.

also, (IDR if i posted this, already,) here is the "top gun 160" chip we're looking at:

http://www.turbograndprix.c...performance_chip.htm

should help vastly improve performance.

these were the two upgrades i was talking about, in page 2 (i think page 2). not too far off, i'm just poor, at the moment. haha.

anyway, i'm going to watch Wretched, and then go to bed. Until next time!

-Jacob

[This message has been edited by Mr_jacob7 (edited 01-19-2010).]

oops.. nevermind.............

[This message has been edited by kyote (edited 01-20-2010).]

A T3 won't be a bolt-on deal,no upgraded turbo would be really.

We have the flange style of the smaller turbos,and we're about as big as we can go.
a Garret T2871R I believe would be the closest thing to a drop in replacement upgrade.
At 1200+ though (still ball-bearing) itisn't the most cost effective,but uses the T25 style flange pretty sure.
I think oil returns etc. are the only thing that needs modified.
I think the T2871r is good for 350+hp with supporting fuel mods.

Check out Kuntzie's car on tgpforums.com,he got 396hp on stock stuff with a Holset HX35.(correction,he is stock block/internals only I believe)

I'm not sure which way i'm going,we'll find out soon though.

Basically if you want to change turbo's your going to be modifying the flange at the least,but going to a T3 flange will open up a world of turbo possibilities.

[This message has been edited by DefEddie (edited 01-22-2010).]

Ey,you ight check to see if the topgun chip is still avaiilable.
The guy who made them is no longerreachable I understand.
Check out tgpforums dot com.

oh... i didn't even think about that. :\ thanks, def. i'll look into it.

Also, and update:

new actuator came in, and so did the manual boost control valve. should have them on, soo, and we'll seehow it goes. :]

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"Be not led astray, bretheren beloved..." -James 1:16.


Thanks, Danyel, for the graphic.