I ordered a clutch pedal from fierostore and have been using these instructions. However, I am really struggling to grasp what they are talking about at certain points. Does anybody have more clear instructions? Preferably one with pictures (although I don't imagine it being easy to take good pictures, I can barely fit my head under their).
Archie's instructions are actually pretty good, but it helps to know what he's talking, and that only comes with experience! Here's a few extra photos and definitions that might help:
Keep in mind there's only one long bolt that serves as the pivot point for both the brake and clutch pedals. You can see in the center of the circular stamping in the orange bracket in the first photo below, that I've removed the nut from the pivot bolt. Once you've done that, it's just a matter of sliding the pivot bolt out towards the brake pedal side "just enough" for the clutch pedal to be freed up and pulled out. It may be difficult to remove the clutch pedal since it's sandwiched in there pretty good, so Archie refers to loosening two bolts. Those bolts are the ones you can see in the first photo below near the top of the orange bracket. The orange bracket is not going to be orange in your car, but it just shows you which part of the entire clutch/brake bracket is specifically for the clutch pedal. By loosening those, you'll start separating the clutch pedal bracket from the brake pedal bracket... just don't remove them. That will give you the extra room to pull out the clutch pedal.
You'll see that there's a large spring that was used by the factory to help spring the clutch pedal forward. It's just a wound coil spring with a couple legs on it, one of the legs captures the pedal near the top and the other is up against the bracket. Once you get the long pivot bolt out far enough, that spring will come out too but you can toss it since it isn't needed, and a real hassle to put back in.
Once you've got the new pedal in position, the "banjo" that Archie refers to is the eyelet in the end of the master cylinder pushrod - note that the centerline of the eye is not in line with the centerline of the rod. When you install the eyelet onto the new clutch pedal, just make sure that it's towards the top side. Also, where the banjo attaches to the pedal, it's possible that the pin is the wrong size for the eyelet. If it is, you'll need an adapter bushing to make up the difference in diameters. Also, when securing the eyelet to the pin on the pedal, you have to make sure that there's no side to side movement of the eyelet on the pin. Just add a few small washers before you slip the spring pin in the hole to hold it all together (see the second photo below).
If you're still unsure, just ask specific questions about the parts you don't understand..
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10:10 PM
Sep 25th, 2009
Bdub Member
Posts: 81 From: Folsom, California Registered: Jul 2009
I hit a brick wall and had no idea what to do! If I can get this done and reinstall my center console and all that jazz, I can drive my car again this weekend.
Looking up into the car again, I am completely overwhelmed. Their is so much stuff in the way preventing me from being able to reach any of the parts you speak of. I went as far as to step one of the instructions. The carpe material is kind of in the way too. Along with what I think might be a cruise control switch. Not sure if my car has cruise control though. How am I supposed to do this will so much stuff in the way!
I'm a total amateur and extremely overwhelmed by this one. I apologize for the stupid questions in advance.
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02:51 PM
kevin Member
Posts: 2722 From: Elk Grove, CA USA Registered: Jan 2000
Looking up into the car again, I am completely overwhelmed. Their is so much stuff in the way preventing me from being able to reach any of the parts you speak of. Along with what I think might be a cruise control switch...
That switch is probably the safety lockout so you don't try and start the car without stepping in the clutch. The switch comes off relatively easily.
I took the clutch pedal out of an '84 today as it's all bent out of shape. All I needed to do was to remove the one nut and then push the bolt back towards the passenger side of the car so that the clutch pedal could be pulled down and out of there.
[EDIT] I explain in more detail in a later post, but the two 13mm bolts mentioned by Bloozberry definitely need to be loosened as well.
I took this shot before I took the pedal out just to show how bent up the U-shaped bracket on the pedal was. (It's been my experience that it's not actually the pedal arm that gets bent, it's just the U-shaped bracket attached to it that gets all wonky.)
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 09-28-2009).]
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11:23 PM
Sep 27th, 2009
Bdub Member
Posts: 81 From: Folsom, California Registered: Jul 2009
I just wasn't about to mess with things I don't know about but I can now see you unscrewed the big plastic threaded thing from that hole and moved the other stuff out to make room to do the work. I think I can actually do this now but I will have to wait until tomorrow to give it a go!
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12:02 AM
PFF
System Bot
Patrick Member
Posts: 37715 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
Step one in this project should be the removal of the driver's seat. It's only 4 bolts to get it out and then you can lay on your back, in the car, and actually not have to be a contortionist to get to things. If you want to make it even easier, pull the steering column as well. To me, that's more of a PITA than it's worth, but with the seat and column out of there it's really a simple job.
When I've had to change them out I've had the column out anyway for other things so I just did it all at the same time.
John Stricker
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12:52 AM
Patrick Member
Posts: 37715 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
I took out my clutch pedal today as it's all bent out of shape. All I needed to do was to remove the one nut and then push the bolt back towards the passenger side of the car so that the clutch pedal could be pulled down and out of there.
I wanted to add something to this. It turns out that the previous owner had already loosened the two 13mm bolts (which Bloozberry mentioned and pictured in his post) and had never tightened them back up. That's why I was able to pull the pedal out of there after only removing the 15mm nut on the long bolt and pushing that bolt back out of the way.
Today I pulled the steel clutch pedal out of an '87 and that's when I discovered that those two 13mm bolts definitely need to be loosened to get the pedal out of there.
And no, I didn't take the seat out to do it.
Here's the two pedals I was dealing with today. You can see that with the clutch pedal arms parallel to each other, the rest of the geometry is pretty screwed up.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 09-28-2009).]
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01:33 AM
The_Stickman2 Member
Posts: 1030 From: Lehigh Valley Pa. Registered: Sep 2007
Ok after looking at Patrick's pic I don't feel to bad. But I was plagued with clutch problems. I thought it was all in the hyd system or maybe even the throwout bearing. But I decided to try something. I took off the rod for the master cylinder and wedged it behine the pin it goes on. then slowly pressed in the clutch to see if it worked. And low and behold it did. I tried beating the pedal into submission and it worked some but the pedal had to be jammed to the floor. So what i did was to have the wife weld a bolt (in place of the stock pin)to the pedal further back to give me more pedal travel. Now it works like a charm. The pedal has more than enough travel. Maybe to much. I may have her adjust it's placement.
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10:36 AM
Sep 29th, 2009
Bdub Member
Posts: 81 From: Folsom, California Registered: Jul 2009
I uploaded a bunch of pictures of the work area here. I unfortunately didn't have time to resize them because I am heading to school so they may load a bit slow. My main question is wghat is the function of the white plastic piece in DSC01096, I'm unsure how to remove it and its really in the way.
I still can't see the circular stamping with the bolt I have to remove, however, I've made some progress and was able to find and loosen one of the two 13mm bolts. Still can't see the other one!
I can't believe I'm struggling with something that you guys seem to find to be extremely basic. My setup looks nothing like in the pictures! :P
Edit: Wow, just took a look at the photos off of the camera display for the first time, and I realize they probably won't do anything for you guys! It doesn't even look like I am taking pictures of the right things!
[This message has been edited by Bdub (edited 09-29-2009).]
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02:16 PM
Patrick Member
Posts: 37715 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
My main question is wghat is the function of the white plastic piece in DSC01096, I'm unsure how to remove it and its really in the way.
I already told you what it was the first time you asked about it.
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:
That switch is probably the safety lockout so you don't try and start the car without stepping in the clutch. The switch comes off relatively easily.
quote
Originally posted by Bdub:
I still can't see the circular stamping with the bolt I have to remove, however, I've made some progress and was able to find and loosen one of the two 13mm bolts. Still can't see the other one!
Your picture below shows the 15mm nut that needs to be removed. Once it's off, push the pivot bolt back a couple of inches so that it no longer goes through the clutch pedal. One of the 13mm bolts is also in your picture. The other one isn't too far away. It's just on the other side of the pivot bolt.
Throw away the spring you see here as well as the plastic collar below it. They are not needed (per instructions from GM).
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03:00 PM
Bdub Member
Posts: 81 From: Folsom, California Registered: Jul 2009
Ah, I was confused because their were two white plastic pieces, one is removed and not pictured. Thanks a lot for the help I'm going out their now to see what I can do.
Edit: I got the black clip off of the safety lockout switch but am unsure as to whether the whole assembly should be taken out. It looks like their is a 7mm bolt to remove it but its at a weird angle and not easy to get at. None of the above instructions had any mention of it so I want to check in before I take it out.
[This message has been edited by Bdub (edited 09-29-2009).]
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06:44 PM
Patrick Member
Posts: 37715 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
It was a long time ago that I originally removed the safety switch, so I can't tell you offhand what was required. However, I don't remember anything especially difficult about getting it off.
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07:26 PM
Bdub Member
Posts: 81 From: Folsom, California Registered: Jul 2009
Got the 7mm bolt off! Now I cant seem to get the arm that is attached to the U bracket of the pedal off! This is never ending. I'll take a photograph to show you guys what I mean. Ugh. I'm definitely not a mechanic!
Edit: The way you phrased your last post it seems as if I don't have to put the safety switch back? I'm probably wrong but I want to ask anyway! I'm leaving no questions unanswered.
[This message has been edited by Bdub (edited 09-29-2009).]
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07:52 PM
PFF
System Bot
Bdub Member
Posts: 81 From: Folsom, California Registered: Jul 2009
It's got a barb at the top that I just can't get at the right angle to squeeze and pull through the hole above where the banjo attaches to the pedal. I'm to the point where I think I need to cut my losses and break it, and maybe get a new one (if thats necessary.) Can somebody link me to where I can buy this part? I'm told its called a "clutch pedal ignition lock switch."
[This message has been edited by Bdub (edited 09-29-2009).]
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09:31 PM
Patrick Member
Posts: 37715 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
The way you phrased your last post it seems as if I don't have to put the safety switch back?
I wouldn't advise that. The reason why it was a long time ago that I had removed that switch and haven't put it back is because I haven't been driving this particular Fiero!
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09:47 PM
Patrick Member
Posts: 37715 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
The 7mm bolt was part of the safety switch. I shot an email Kevin's way but really want to try to figure this out on my own and use Kevin as a last resort.
Notice the spider... I didn't until I pulled the picture up on my computer monitor. Creepy.
Thats the barb I'm struggling to get off. It's getting dark here so I'm going to have to postpone work until tomorrow. The pliers I have just aren't cutting it, going to go grab some from the hardware store in the morning.
I know I can do it! Just not without your wonderful help!
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10:06 PM
Patrick Member
Posts: 37715 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
I've removed the nut and loosened the bolts and I can almost yank it out, but the spring is keeping me from being able to get it out. What did you guys do to get the spring out? I was able to bend the one pushing the clutch forward but the one that goes into the frame pictured below is making it so I can't pull the pedal down and out.
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08:46 PM
Mike Gonzalez Member
Posts: 5093 From: Colorado Springs, CO. USA Registered: Jul 2001
Doesn't look all that bent but it will prevent and future issues and it was a good learning experience. Tomorrow I'm going to reassemble my center console and if I finish that I'm going to throw the new one in!
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10:38 PM
Oct 1st, 2009
Patrick Member
Posts: 37715 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
You really had to engage the pedal to the floor and for that reason I assumed the pedal was bent. Those pictures don't do justice but it actually is bent just slightly. Their was also too much play on the banjo even with the old pedal so now I get to put a shim in and make it a solid connection. I probably should've bled the clutch and tried other things first, but I guess now I never have to worry about it bending in the future.
This is going to be my daily driver, and only has 44k miles on it, so their is a good chance that it would bend more in the future! Regardless of it was a waste of my time or not, I feel really accomplished.
Oh, by the way... I actually did end up breaking the clip on the safety switch but after taking it out and closely inspecting it the plastic was so old their was no way I was going to be able to get it out without breaking it. Any idea where I can order a replacement? If not, I'll be driving without one...doh!
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12:35 AM
PFF
System Bot
Patrick Member
Posts: 37715 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
Any idea where I can order a replacement? If not, I'll be driving without one...doh!
You do realize your car won't start unless you put a jumper on the wires that go to that switch.
Not replacing that switch probably isn't a good idea though, especially if you EVER let someone else drive your car. They're liable to start it in gear and launch the car through the garage door.
I doubt that switch is Fiero specific. I wouldn't be surprised if there's a switch on the "HELP" rack in an auto parts store that will do the trick.
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01:34 AM
Bdub Member
Posts: 81 From: Folsom, California Registered: Jul 2009
Went to Kragen and Autozone, neither have the part or expect to have it any time soon. They told me it isn't a generic part and is pretty unique to the fiero. I've found a few online vendors but they seem way overpriced, but if all else fails I'll have to grab one of those.
Until then, looks like I'm jumping it!
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01:38 PM
Patrick Member
Posts: 37715 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
From what a friend of mine told me at Autozone it is unique to our beautiful fieros and no other pontiacs of that era had it, but he could be completely wrong. The guy as Kragen Autoparts said the same thing but I don't know him to verify any validity. I could go to a pick-n-pull but if it's anything like it was getting this one off, I don't know if I can get one off a car in the lot without fixing it. Haha.
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06:49 PM
Oct 3rd, 2009
Bdub Member
Posts: 81 From: Folsom, California Registered: Jul 2009
Just finished installing it, no play with the banjo, installed it the correct way (loop is up). For some reason its extremely hard to put her in first gear when the engines running. It's almost impossible. This problem didn't exist when I started this project. Any suggestions?
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09:14 PM
Patrick Member
Posts: 37715 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99
Turns out the banjo was upside down. Doh! Still a bit rough shifting so I'm definitely going to have to bleed her, but I was expecting that. Happy to be able to drive her again. All I have left to do is put together the console together again and bolt the seats back down. I managed to locate a switch so I'm going to have to take out the seats one more time, but when I do that I'm going to be throwing some of mr mikes seats on and throw some new speakers in the headrests. Super sick!
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11:30 PM
Oct 4th, 2009
Patrick Member
Posts: 37715 From: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Registered: Apr 99