I vaguely recall a thread a while back where someone took the keyless entry system out of an older GM car (but newer than a Fiero) and put it in their Fiero. Anyone remember that thread? I spent almost an hour looking through the archives trying to find it.
The reason I'd like a GM one rather than an aftermarket one is the remotes look like they could have been original to the car, instead of the ugly aftermarket ones. Also probably a lot simpler to wire, and cheap at the junkyard.
Know they are not stock looking but for the money I use the Bulldog ones. I can usually pick them up on ebay for $20 shipping included. I wire the doors and trunk release and skip the remote start on the manuals.
Originally posted by Dodgerunner: Know they are not stock looking but for the money I use the Bulldog ones. I can usually pick them up on ebay for $20 shipping included. I wire the doors and trunk release and skip the remote start on the manuals.
Actually, the 90s GM remotes almost all had that exact shape, and looked like that one. I think the icons and buttons were different, though.
Any mid-late 90s GM car with keyless entry should be pretty easy to pull the module and wire it up in the Fiero. The newer cars are a bit more difficlut, as the keyless entry/start and a lot of other functions are integrated into the BCM.
Maybe this will help. I got that style remote for my 96 GP that has remote doors but I didn't get any fobs with it. I bought one off ebay that looked just like the one in your picture. To program the remotes on that year GP you grounded an extra wire that was located on the power antenna in the trunk. The door locks cycle once that then you press a button on the fob to program it to the car. Since the wire was located on the power antenna it would reason that the module is somewhere near the radio or off the harness that leads to the antenna.
On a side note while I had the fob I tested it with my Dodge Intrepid and it programed to it also. Though the bottoms where reversed. There are only a couple manufacturers for most of the fobs.
[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 05-31-2010).]
Looks like the module is located behind the passenger kick panel, on 93-95's. Also on the page is the wiring diagram for the system, scanned from an original GM service manual.
I also found from some ebay auctions selling the remotes, they should work with (in other words the modules should be found in) the following cars:
93-95 Bonneville 94-96 Grand Am 94-96 Sunfire 94-95 Firebird
There's probably a lot of other Chevys, GMC's, Oldsmobiles, etc. that have the units in them too, from the same time period.
The module is a black box with a couple harnesses coming out of it.
To program the remotes on that year GP you grounded an extra wire that was located on the power antenna in the trunk. The door locks cycle once that then you press a button on the fob to program it to the car.
Like this?
I saw this video yesterday, but it didn't make any sense until I read your description.
Just got back from the junkyard, spent five hours looking for it and some other parts. Finally found one in a silver '95 Camaro convertible, right where they said it would be. Got the harnesses, too. I'll start experimenting with it later.
In my search I also found some other aftermarket alarms, a DEI 712T and a Viper 150HF, just left them there for someone to pick up. Found a homelink sunvisor garage door opener (the visor was trash, so I cut the opener out), and an auto dimming mirror with compass and temp readouts. No Sunbird turbo tachs, and no Fieros, most of the cars in the yard now are 96 and newer.
Studying the electrical diagrams from an 88 Fiero and the 95 Camaro, it looks like the systems shouldn't be too hard to put together.
The door lock actuators actually use the same color wires Looks like the RKE (remote keyless entry) unit would take the place of the door lock relay assembly in the Fiero. The tan wires (two of them) would be hooked to the correct sides, the driver's side and the passenger side. This would mean one press of the unluck button unlocks the driver's door, and two unlocks boh doors. Or you could tie them both into the first wire to unlock both at the same time.
RED/BLK to BLK from door unlock switches, ORN/BLK to LT BLU from door lock switches. GRY to GRY. BLK to a ground.
Hatch release:
The white wire would be unused since there is no hatch light on the Fiero. Wiring it to the trunk light would be redundant since it turns on anyway when the trunk is open.
The black hatch release wire would be spliced into the GRY/BLK wire between the trunk release switch and the trunk release relay.
Program wire:
BLK/WHT wire, used to program the unit (add remotes) left unplugged, near an easily accessible ground, so remotes can be programmed later.
Power:
ORN to constant power, PNK to an ignition hot wire.
Just successfully trained the remote to the unit on the bench:
ORN to 12V, BLK (from black 8-wire harness) to ground, and BLK/WHT to an aligator clip test lead. Connect the BLK/WHT to ground, and you'll hear the relays click in the RKE. Press a button on the remote, and the RKE relay will click again. Unplug the BLK/WHT wire. Now if you press the trunk release or lock and unluck buttons, you can hear the relays clicking in the RKE. This should make testing the unit in the car easier. The RKE retains the remotes programmed to it even without battery power.
Originally posted by RWDPLZ: In my search I also found some other aftermarket alarms, a DEI 712T and a Viper 150HF, just left them there for someone to pick up.
The DEI might not actually be aftermarket. They're the ones who actually manufacture the modules for GM, At least, they did at least until very recently. They probably still make the replacements for the 90s and early-mid 00s cars with remote entry/start setups. The new model cars are a bit more integrated now, with the pushbutton start, etc... systems.
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07:54 AM
Gokart Mozart Member
Posts: 12143 From: Metro Detroit Registered: Mar 2003
Just made an observation looking at the wiring diagrams again - Since the RKE module would replace the door lock relay assembly, it already has almost all the neccessary wires going directly to it. So the only missing wires would be a switched 12V source, and the wire going to the trunk release.
Where's the door lock relay assembly? Under the passenger side of the dash! Just like the Camaro! So the box would be in the same relative location. Running a switched 12V from the fuse block, and a wire from the trunk release switch over to it would be a piece of cake. If I use spade connectors in the connector terminals where the relay assembly would normally plug in, I could even return the car to stock easily if I wanted to.
I'll be trying this soon in my car. If it works, I'll do a writeup with pics and wiring diagrams, maybe video of it in action.
I got it all installed and tested out tonight. For some reason, using the RKE module as a replacement for the door lock relay assembly doesn't work, I think because of the weird way the Camaro door switches are wired. So I tried the way reccommended in the link above, and THAT didn't work either, even though the 84 Camaro power lock diagram is identical to the Fiero's. So I started trying a few different things.
-The lock and unlock wire colors are switched. The gray from the RKE module should go to the light blue wires, and the tan wires (spliced together) should go to the black unlock wires. This made the doors lock and unlock perfectly.
-My trunk release switch failed about a month ago, so I hooked the remote release wire directly to the actuator, and connected the actuator to ground at the battery since my decklid won't close anymore (frame damage). The trunk release works perfectly as well.
Pictures:
Here's where the lock relays are located, under the passenger side of the dash. I had to remove the Performance Sound subwoofer to get to them.
End view of the connectors that plug into the door lock relay. Top two wire connector has the blue and black lock and unlock wires. Bottom connector has the orange with black stripe (constant power) wire, and the gray and tan wires that go to the door lock actuators.
The test setup. I used male spade crimp-on connectors and butt connectors, and test leads for testing purposes, the final product would be soldered directly to the harness and heat shrinked and taped up. Jamming spade connectors into the terminals just allowed me to swap the wiring around.
Video of it working:
There's an echo because I'm in a garage, it isn't that loud.
Final working wiring:
3 wire connector:
Pink - switched 12V from fuse block black - trunk release black on 84, at trunk release switch, yellow/black on 85-86, gray/black on 87-88 black/white - leave disconnected, ground to program remote
8 wire connector:
red/black - not used orange/black - not used white - not used gray - light blue wires tan (splice both together) - black wires on door lock/unlock connector next to light blue wires black - ground screw for power lock relay orange - orange/black wire at power lock relay
EDIT to add 85-86 wiring color on 3-wire connector
[This message has been edited by RWDPLZ (edited 12-04-2011).]
where exactly is this module. i went through at least 50 different cars in the 92-95 model year and looked in the passanger footwell under the dash. Is this where the module is?
It is on the Camaro and Firebird, but apparently no other car, I also went through every car in the junkyard in that range and didn't find one other one. Supposedly on a Grand Am, it's in the trunk on the driver's side.
I think the Gen 2 S-trucks have the module under the driver's side dash somewhere. My truck is all manual windows/doors, so can't confirm since I obviously wouldn't have remote entry on it.
they say it is under the dash on s10 trucks as well. on the firebird when you sit in the passenger seat and look in the glove box would you see it if the glove box basket was in it? Or is it on the floor next to the door hinges?
Got one out of a 95 firebird in the exact location that they said. And the fob was found at the front desk of the yard. Never thought to ask the front of the yard fo used key fobs.
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10:54 AM
Jun 14th, 2010
americasfuture2k Member
Posts: 7131 From: Edmond, Oklahoma Registered: Jan 2006
Well I finally got time to hit a local u-pull-it by my place and I found a 1995 Pontiac Grand Am that had the module behind the trunk carpet near the drivers side hinge.
I walked up to the car and the trunk was open and the carpet had already been pulled out and there it was.
I took the module and as much of the wiring harness as I could.
The wire from the trunk latch solenoid to the unit was taken intact also, the plug end looks like it could just plug right into the Fiero solenoid.
I was not able to find the remote but there are other yards around I can check with, hopefully someone will have a remote.
I also took down the vehicle's VIN number, 1G2NE5534RM535348, which shows it as a 1994 Pont Grand Am.
I always recommend taking down the VIN number when ever you remove an electronic or mechanical part, makes it real easy to look up stuff down the road later if you have to.
When I get around to installing it in my 84SE I'll make sure and take plenty of pics for a how to here.
Here's a couple pics of the module.
Steve
The single wire coiled on the bottom right of the module is the one that went up to the trunk release solenoid. The plug that is sticking out of the wiring harness on the left had nothing plugged into it, this I think is the ground for programming the remote?
The "TRW" on the label was very visible when I walked up to the trunk so I knew from RWDPLZ's pic this was the right module.
[This message has been edited by fierohoho (edited 07-26-2010).]
When the alarm is all set up does it only lock/unlock the doors & pop the trunk, or does it also function as an alarm?
There's no alarm function, it just locks and unlocks the doors, and pops the trunk.
The Grand Am unit looks very similar, they just used a gray end instead of a black one on that unit, and it has that mounting tab. The wiring appears to be the same from what I can make out in those pics.
quote
The plug that is sticking out of the wiring harness on the left had nothing plugged into it, this I think is the ground for programming the remote?
Is it black with a white tracer, coming off the 3-wire connector?
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10:25 PM
Jul 27th, 2010
fierohoho Member
Posts: 3494 From: Corner of No and Where Registered: Apr 2001
I've got the wiring diagram for the 1994 Pontiac Grand Am RKE and it can be viewed in pdf at the link below, it does take a minute or so to load so give it time.
Went to a different junk yard today and scored another RKE module.
This one is from a 1995 Pontiac Grand Am and has more wires in it than the 1994 so I'll have to get a schematic for that and see what the difference is.
I was also able to score a Pontiac remote too.
Total this trip was $15.00.
Now if it works in the Fiero I'll put one in my 1990 Dodge Ram pickup.
I'll put the 1995 wiring schematic up when I get it.
Stopped in to the local GM dealer and talked to the people at the parts counter.
They have a small box that they set the remote on and when they press the remote buttons one at a time if the remote is good a light on the box comes on .
I had them check my remote and it was good.
I told them what I was doing and they traded me my good remote that will not program to my modules for two others that will.
I now have one remote with just the Lock/Unlock buttons and a 94 Grand Am module which will be good for my Dodge truck, the other remote and 95 Grand Am module has the usual Lock/Unlock/Trunk buttons and I'll use it for my 84SE.
Problem I've run into doing the bench testing is the 95 Grand Am module works with the exception of not being able to get it trip the door Lock.
I've checked the connections so I guess next I'll open the module to see if anything inside looks bad.
If anyone has any ideas on the Lock function not working LMK.
Steve
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03:52 PM
Aug 4th, 2010
fierohoho Member
Posts: 3494 From: Corner of No and Where Registered: Apr 2001
I was able to locate the module on the passenger side just up around the bottom lip of the dash next to the right side of the dash and use the 10mm screw that holds the dash corner to the side wall in one of the module's tabs to hold it in place.
Everything went well, tapped into open slots on the fuse block for (hot at all time) power and (hot in start and run) power for the module.
I installed in-line fuses for each power wire and fused them at 20amps for the hot at all timss wire and 10 amps for the hot in start or run wire.
There is a ground point near the Door Lock Relay, I grounded the module there.
As my 84SE doesn't use a relay for the rear deck lid release I ran the wire from the module to the switch on the dash and tapped into the wire that goes from the switch to the trunk solenoid.
There is a white wire that comes from the module for the dome/courtesy lights, I tapped this wire into the white wire from the passenger side door switch.
With this hooked up the module will turn on the interior lights for about 1 second when you press the "Door Lock" button on the remote and when you press the "Unlock Button" on the remote the module will turn on the interior lights for about 30 seconds before the module turns them off or until you turn the ignition key which will turn them off.
Note: The white wire from the module for the interior lights does not carry power, it is a module controlled ground point and acts just like the door switch when activated.
There are two wires left at this point from the module, one for locking and one for unlocking the doors.
The door lock relay in my 84SE has two plugs, one has an orange power wire and two gray and two brown wires that come from the relay and go to the door lock motors, these are not used.
The second plug has two blue wires hooked together and two black wires hooked together, these are the wires from the door lock/unlock button switches into the relay.
I spliced the blue wire from the module into the blue wire at the relay and the tan wire from the module into the black wires at the relay.
I put in the fuses and ran a test of the stock switch operation before I tried the remote, the door unlock switch did not work and I had the 20amp fuse for the interior lights blow.
What i ultimately found out was that the tan wire from the module is for unlocking the driver's door only in the donor car with a single push of the remote's unlock button.
The module had a white wire for unlocking all the doors which I had deleted, I ended up moving the tan wire from slot "C" on the module plug to slot "D" on the module plug which means I have to push the remote's unlock button twice to unlock the doors.
After I got that moved and everything was all wired up and tucked away I gave it a test;
press the remote's lock button and both doors lock and the interior lights come on for about one second
press the remote's unlock button once and the interior lights come on, press it a second time and both doors unlock
press the remote's trunk button and the rear deck lid pops open
Pretty easy setup.
Steve
[This message has been edited by fierohoho (edited 08-12-2010).]
Originally posted by fierohoho: With this hooked up the module will turn on the interior lights for about 1 second when you press the "Door Lock" button on the remote and when you press the "Unlock Button" on the remote the module will turn on the interior lights for about 30 seconds before the module turns them off or until you turn the ignition key which will turn them off.
That's pretty cool, I might have to wire that up.
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05:38 PM
fierohoho Member
Posts: 3494 From: Corner of No and Where Registered: Apr 2001
It was nice to be able to place the module where I did as all I had to run were the two power wires over to the fuse block and the trunk release wire to the switch.
I could have tapped into the relay power wire but I don't like drawing power from an already fused wire by connecting another wire to it that needs it's own fuse.
As this was 84 specific when I put one in my 85 project car I'll document the differences as there is the trunk relay in that wiring to deal with.
Steve
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06:16 PM
Sep 24th, 2010
fieroluke Member
Posts: 357 From: Erlangen, Germany Registered: Mar 2001
I had a similar idea, but I didn't like the mid-90's remote, I wanted the newer 98+ version, so I used 2002 Firebird as a donor, and put a BCM in my 87 GT. The amount of work is similar, but you also get an alarm system, retained accessory power (radio and windows) and lots of additional features.