On a 94 4 door S 10 Blazer with bucket seats in the front the RKE was under the console in the center between the seats. Four screws and the entire console came out. I think it only had one plug in it though, not two.
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02:11 AM
Mar 23rd, 2011
outlawfiero17 Member
Posts: 1450 From: sacramento, CA Registered: Jul 2009
i had a question.....i have the 8pin and 3 pin module. i would like once press unlocks my door and twice unlocks both. it says to wire both tan wires to the black wires? like just splice two tan wires to one of the black wires? also.....how many remotes can one module remember? i know its all right there in front of me but i just need a bit of clarification since i spent my day tearing my doors apart to put in new mirrors and fix my locks to where they function in one press. i think i need the knucklehead version....with pics installed and such. just want to know which wire goes where. when splicing.
[This message has been edited by outlawfiero17 (edited 03-23-2011).]
It's been a while but I remember trying to get that to work, I think at one point I got it so one click unlocked the passenger door and two unlocked both, but I couldn't get it to work the other way around. I was fine with one click opening both, so I just left it that way. If you look at the wiring diagrams it's definitely possible, but you'd have to rewire the lock solenoids so they work independently.
[This message has been edited by RWDPLZ (edited 03-24-2011).]
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08:01 AM
outlawfiero17 Member
Posts: 1450 From: sacramento, CA Registered: Jul 2009
I can get you some really bad pics Just have a cell phone, and the wires are still just plugged in in the test setup, since the car has been un-driveable since shortly before I installed the system. But should be obvious which go where.
Programming the remote:
quote
Just successfully trained the remote to the unit on the bench:
ORN to 12V, BLK (from black 8-wire harness) to ground, and BLK/WHT to an aligator clip test lead. Connect the BLK/WHT to ground, and you'll hear the relays click in the RKE. Press a button on the remote, and the RKE relay will click again. Unplug the BLK/WHT wire. Now if you press the trunk release or lock and unluck buttons, you can hear the relays clicking in the RKE. This should make testing the unit in the car easier. The RKE retains the remotes programmed to it even without battery power.
Basically, after it has power and you ground the program wire, you just press a button on the remote(s), and disconnect the program wire. You can program at least two, I want to say 3-5, but I don't have access to that repair manual right now.
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08:15 PM
outlawfiero17 Member
Posts: 1450 From: sacramento, CA Registered: Jul 2009
ok i have 2 sets of remotes two pontiac and one blank one olds. im going to use one pontiac and use the rest for back ups and parts. thought about maybe painting the arrowhead red and the cross white. make it stand out a bit. would a basic arts&crafts paint work?
im just concerned about the black and blue wires. do i splice them both together? as in when i splice the gray wire do i have to tap into both other wires or just one?
[This message has been edited by outlawfiero17 (edited 03-24-2011).]
im just concerned about the black and blue wires. do i splice them both together? as in when i splice the gray wire do i have to tap into both other wires or just one?
8 wire connector:
red/black - not used orange/black - not used white - not used gray - light blue wires tan (splice both together) - black wires on door lock/unlock connector next to light blue wires black - ground screw for power lock relay orange - orange/black wire at power lock relay
The two light blue wires are both connected to the gray wire. The black wire (on the 8-wire connector) is just a ground, and the ground screw is right there so it's easiest to just connect it there.
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08:42 PM
Mar 25th, 2011
outlawfiero17 Member
Posts: 1450 From: sacramento, CA Registered: Jul 2009
well i got it wired in last night and i guess its nearly impossible for it to unlock just my side with one click. so i just have it unlock both. i havent run the trunk release or switched 12v which i assume turns the dome lights off when you turn the key on b4 the 30secs after you unlock it. i do have to say im not impressed with the range of my remotes. im gonna try new batteries. is there an antenna for the module that i can perhaps alter for better range?
and is there a way to make a module forget a remote? i figure i might sell my current one when i get my pontiac ones in.
and is there a way to make a module forget a remote? i figure i might sell my current one when i get my pontiac ones in.
That one is easy, just put it back into program mode, and program only the remotes you want programmed. It will forget any previously programmed remotes, that's why you have to program all the remotes at the same time.
Apparently in 85 and 86, the correct wire to connect to is yellow with a black tracer. They changed it in 87 to the gray with black tracer.
3 wire connector:
Pink - switched 12V from fuse block black - trunk release black on 84, at trunk release switch, yellow/black on 85-86, gray/black on 87-88 black/white - leave disconnected, ground to program remote
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04:22 PM
mickeyswing52 Member
Posts: 297 From: sturgeon bay ,wis usa Registered: Jan 2006
Originally posted by outlawfiero17: well i got it wired in last night and i guess its nearly impossible for it to unlock just my side with one click. so i just have it unlock both.
Nearly, unless you wire it correctly. Mine's set up to unlock the driver door first, then the passenger, it's a really nice feature.
Just have a cell phone, and the wires are still just plugged in in the test setup, since the car has been un-driveable since shortly before I installed the system. But should be obvious which go where.
Mine's set up to unlock the driver door first, then the passenger, it's a really nice feature. 
