quote Originally posted by topher_time: My camera phone sucks but here is the set up on my rally car: Thinking I may ditch it and build a long travel suspension similar to 2wd desert buggies...

Do you have some examples? And how would it be done? I'm assuming more travel can be achieved by raising the position of the upper control arm and coilover mounting plate on the cross-member? Perhaps we could Frankenstein an extension for the upper control arm mounts? Or how about building a entire new cross-member all together?

i meant to say rodneys drop ball joints , sorry .if i were to start over again i would just use stiffer drop springs and koni shocks and add the drop ball joints if i want it lower than what the springs give .i dont know if i would even use poly ,probably just new rubber .being able to adjust the ride height in the front is trick ,but i think coilovers in the back give you all the weight jacking capability you need and are much easier to do yourself than the fronts .i set up my old 85 all stock but with rear coilovers and it handled really nice .

Spacers are set to be delivered thursday. I also found more pics yesterday in this thread...
http://www.celicasupra.com/...-suspesnion-write-up

I believe they are about 3"ID but will have to measure when they arrive. I'm still hopeful they will fit over the cone bumpstop. Best I can tell with my digital caliper says ~3.1"OD near the top of the bumpstop. Very, very close. We'll see...

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 07-27-2010).]

quote Originally posted by Will: There are pictures of the RCC setup on this forum. They're lower control arms are caster-adjustable, but I don't like their upper spring mount method. When I go to coil overs, I'll probably use RCC LCA's with Held/West Shore UCA's and upper shock mounts.

quote Originally posted by Seanpaul: Humm that's interesting. So the HMS lower control arms are not camber adjustable, how do they expect you to set camber? So the HMS and RCC control arms are compatible? Does any one have links to pics of these items?

I typed CASTER, not camber.
If the control arms are dimensionally similar to stock (as they both should be to bolt to stock crossmember and knuckles) then they will be compatible.

Camber adjustment should be accomplished via slotted upper ball joint mounting as with stock. However, some degree of camber adjustment will be available with a rod-end inner pivot.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 07-28-2010).]

Here's a picture of HT Motorsports set up that I have... It is for an 88 though

quote Originally posted by Seanpaul: Do you have some examples? And how would it be done? I'm assuming more travel can be achieved by raising the position of the upper control arm and coilover mounting plate on the cross-member? Perhaps we could Frankenstein an extension for the upper control arm mounts? Or how about building a entire new cross-member all together?

It would involve removing the front body panels and taking a sawzall to the front metal and building a tube chassis front. Then fab a new cross member of sorts and some fabbed control arms and 2wd S10 or Corvette hubs. The stock front end doesn't have a lot of room for suspension compression. Even when it was mostly stock suspension and lifted a little in the front with the bump stops shortened, it still banged around on heavier courses. With the RCC parts I pick and choose which courses to run. I do it for fun and stress relief, so I am never in competition for a podium finish anyways.

quote Originally posted by unboundmo: Here's a picture of HT Motorsports set up that I have... It is for an 88 though

Gawd Damn those are some sexy parts. However I have read in the past that some of those tubular parts even as sexy as they look, offer little in the way of performance gains, some people claim they were not even as good as the OEM parts when it came to racing. I.E. guys on the Fiero racing list that had bought the Held Slalom kits, tried them and removed them and went back to stock.

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85GT Soon to be 87GT,93 Eldorado 4.9, 5spd Dual O2 Custom Chip, Custom Exhaust. MSD Everything Capt Fiero --- My Over View Cadero Pics Yellow 88GT 5spd Full Poly Suspension, Lowered 1/2" in front, Corner Carver.

Spacers arrived. Exactly as described. 3.5"OD. Look to be a 2.825ID with the tape measure but with enough of a weld/material to do some clearancing to fit over the bump stop. I will post some pics and more precise measurments when I get home near the camera and digital caliper. I'm even more excited now that I've seen them in person.

Oh. They weight in at 2.6lbs each. Good heavy duty design but will add a couple pounds.

They also sent me 12 bumper stickers.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 07-29-2010).]

So, I don't see any notches or method for adjusting the loading, what does the
supplier/manufacturer suggest using? . . . A pipe wrench?

Norm

quote Originally posted by gt88norm: So, I don't see any notches or method for adjusting the loading, what does the supplier/manufacturer suggest using? . . . A pipe wrench? Norm

I was thinking about that too. I guess they weren't considering them being used in a setup where they are always under tension. I may have to cut something in. I also got to thinking there is no set screw or any way of securing them. Most likely they won't be able to move much but I'd still like the security of knowing they can't.

I found these in their catalog yesterday. They are 3 1/8" OD and would fit the springs better. But, they are much taller and would still require machining down the OD of the spring seat. They would also need the extra 1 1/2" sleeve up top cut off. Really not much easier but could also work.
http://www.daymotorsports.c...DIFIED-SPRING-SPACER

Either way, after spending some time playing with them last night, and seeing the pic of the one linked above, I believe I have a way of making them work. The tube that goes inside the spring can be removed entirely and will not pose a problem. There is a small lip inside it that is 3 1/8" OD. The threaded sleeve will also be there so there is no need for the tube at all. The spring won't be able to pop out. Now I just need to schedule some time on the lathe to turn down the spring seat so it will clear the cross member. I think these will work well with relatively minimal modification at this point.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 07-30-2010).]

wow dang! guess i should have clicked on the second page! lol.

[This message has been edited by Seanpaul (edited 08-06-2010).]

quote Originally posted by Seanpaul: Perhaps just remove the bump stop all together?

I will be removing the bump stop and welding the threaded sleeve in its place. Haven't decided if a new bump stop will be needed or not. Depends on how this turns out I guess. My main issue with not having one at all is something is going to have to take that place. Either the springs will coil bind or the shock will bottom out. Neither of those sound like a good plan to me. Testing is required before I know for sure.

For fitment it looks like they will be easier then I thought to make work. This part of the spring seat...

will need to be turned down ~ .5" to about 4.4" OD. This will allow it to raise up fully.

The tube on the spring seat will be removed entirely by simply cutting/grinding these 4 welds...

This will give the added clearance for the spring to fit. There is an inner lip for the spring to sit around that is ~3 1/8" OD. That and the threaded sleeve portion will still be inside the spring. Just have to make it over to use the lathe. If it takes too long though I may just use the bench grinder. The spring just sits there so it doesn't have to be perfect. I'm sure I can get it pretty close. If I were to make them for others the lathe would be the only option IMO.

Optional mods:
Another change I want to make is to add some sort of way to lock them in place. The tension of the spring is probably enough but I want that added insurance. I was considering a set screw but this may not work since its hard to say where the final adjustment will be and if I'll even be able to reach the set screw afterwards. A second locking ring would be a better solution but will require a custom piece. Most likely nothing will be done unless I find it absolutely necissary.

Possible notches for adjustment added if necissary also. Essentially add some notches every inch or so. This way they can be tapped with a hammer and punch to adjust while the suspension is still assembled and under spring tension.

In hindsight this one would work better...
http://www.daymotorsports.c...DIFIED-SPRING-SPACER
All you have to do on this one is turn or grind down the spring seat diameter and cut off that 1.5" top portion. Being longer it may even work as the new bump stop. Looks like the total height will be 4.75" so maybe not quite.

[This message has been edited by Fieroseverywhere (edited 08-06-2010).]

any updates?

quote Originally posted by Seanpaul: any updates?

I second that thought.

Last few months have been crazy. Took a new job and have been trying to get settled in. I now have access to a full machine shop tools. I will be starting work on these spacers shortly. Just have to finish building the squat rack for the garage.

why not use small body shocks that are 10 inches compressed and 15 extended with a coil over kit would those lengths be to long and if so then cut off the upper mount and extend it up


shock and shok mounts sold at any stock car speed shop

[This message has been edited by engine man (edited 03-07-2011).]

QA1 should be able to do some thing they dint list the fiero but they have these shocks and aluminum threaded body 8.75 compressed and 13 extended and they have springs