If you didn't have a driven gear on the VSS shaft, then it's likely inside the transmission. Could cause a problem 'down the road'. Once they've fallen into the transmission, they're hard to get out unless you remove the end cap from the transmission. If you were getting a reading from your current VSS, there was no need to order a new one. Just get another driven gear from a junkyard transmission. All the Fiero manual transmission VSS gears are interchangeable.

A common problem with old Fiero brakes are the flexible brake lines. They tend to deteriorate on the inside and during maintenance activity like replacing pads, they get flexed and little flaps peel up on the inside of the line. Depending on which way they break away, they can act as a one way valve, preventing the fluid from flowing to the calliper during braking, or flowing away from the caliper after application has ceased.

Oh yea, one other thing. The car idles between 1000-1100 and constantly flucuates. Is that normal?

Gave FIFI her first bath this afternoon. Saturday the VSS, coolant temp pigtail, the calipers, and the drilled/ slotted rotors should be in. Then all the guages will be functional other that the fuel gauge. Replaced both flashers also only the right side blinkers were working before. Started painting my rims also. I will upload some updated pictures of the exterior of the car within in the next couple weeks, and since I never posted interior pics, I will do that as well. Without the stupid black and yellow seat covers.

I was driving the car today, and the shifter cable came off the ball and socket assembly. I assume its because the ball is not in its original state anymore. Painted A LOT yesterday.

The little cir-clip inside the plastic socket wears out with time. There are a number of cars out there that are running around with that cable held onto the lever by cable ties.

If you replace the cable, order it from Rodney Dickman.

Thats funny, and seems like it wouldnt shift real well being held on by cable ties. My cable is good, i just need the ball and socket. Also when running the car today, I noticed it was idling at about 1800-2000 rpm. It was a nice smooth idle, but a high one at that. I am assuming that once I start driving the car, it will lower since I had the battery connected for so long, and erased the ECM. I will clean the IAC, and TPS out tomorrow and see if that helps. Got 2 new front calipers on the car, and 2 rears from a forum member who did a brake up grade. I also have drilled/ slotted rotors on the rear with new pads.

Back to my first point, would using JB weld on the shift cable to hold the ball in be a pad idea?

Yes! Bad idea. The socket has to be able to move freely on the ball stud. The cable ties can be tightened just enough to keep the cable from popping off, but still operate the lever.

I just had a friend who had the same problem on his way down from North Carolina. It happened just as he got inside South Carolina. Cable tied it, stopped by here to pick up a replacement cable, then went on his way to Atlanta to swapout the cable later.

Hmm, I see. I noticed Rodney Dickman sell a piece that replaces the corroded ball by drilling the coupling on the shifter cable out. Would using a regular bolt and locking washer and locking nut be a bad idea? Seems basically the same thing he does.

I'd never heard of it until now. I looked it up on Rodney's site. I suppose that if the plastic end cap is solid enough and hasn't deteriorated, it will work.

I might give it a try, its not too big of a deal at the moment, since the calipers aren't even on the car. And that caliper paint takes days to dry in cooler weather. And I still have to flip them and do the other side.

Hang them with bent/cut coat hangers and paint both sides at once.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-14-2010).]

I didnt even think of that, I have one side painted, I painted them in my shed at about 6 yesterday, just went out there , and they were still tacky. I put another light coat on them, and maybe when It warms up today, they will harden enough to flip. I have a small space heater in there. But dont wan tto run it when I am not out there.

Edit: I wish I had a garage. The garage door track has the perfect place to hang stuff to paint. All I have is a 2 car shelter which is where the car is, and 2 small 8x8 sheds. One for storage, and one that I use to do my painting. And store my tools.

[This message has been edited by 86FIFI (edited 11-14-2010).]

Not my pic btw. It's not bad until you or someone else pushes the opener button.

A fan will help dry the pieces. So will pre-heating them some with a propane torch. I have at times used the propane torch post painting to speed in drying under coats. It's an interesting proposition. It does help remove the volatiles from the paint for sure.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-14-2010).]

Used the propane torch post painting when I painted the passenger side molding, and it helped, but if your not careful the paint can ignite, and on the plastic isnt a good place. (didnt happen to me, but it could happen) The driver side I just waited until a warm day and wiped it out along with the mirror. I dont have much experience with clear coat, but i hate to just leave the paint as the exterior layer. It scratches easy and catches dirt a little easier. If this side doesnt dry by about 4 this afternoon, I will figure something up to help speed the process. Pads wont be in until Monday or Tuesday anyway. No parts store in town had pads to fit a fiero, it a shame. With me going in there all the time, maybe they will start keeping stuff in stock, I doubt it.

Now that I think about it, the torch aided drying was painting he back sides of the pads red. Yeah I don't think I'd be doing it with anything plastic.

Yea, I reallized the potential damage I could cause and stoppet woth the torch on the plastic. I have never painted my pads, but that is smart. Because u can see the flaps that attach to the caliper, and the middle of the pad.

And for a CHEAP guy like me, painting them red is the next best thing to buying acutal performance pads!!

Haha, with this being my first set of pads on the fiero Idk what to expect. I didn't get a cheap set, but didn't get the most expensive either. We'll see how they do.

I got my calipers and drilled slotted rotors, and new pads on the rear, and my new caliper and pads on the front. One of my new front calipers had no threads where the banjo bolt goes, so the new one will be in tomorrow. maybe friday i can see how they perform. its my only real road block from driving the car around. Both front ball joint boots were busted completely open. I will be purchasing them from rodney dickman.

Heres a little update. Got all the calipers on, and still the same amout of braking power. I drove 1/2 mile and parked and the front brakes were really hot, and the rears were barely warm. Here are some exterior pics. Excuse the sunlight.

<a href="http://s814.photobucket.com/albums/zz66/matt1142008/FiFi/?action=view&current=utf-8BSU1HMDAwNjctMjAxMDExMTktMTY0NS5qcGc.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://images.fiero.nl/photobucket/albums/zz66/matt1142008/FiFi/utf-8BSU1HMDAwNjctMjAxMDExMTktMTY0NS5qcGc.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s814.photobucket.com/albums/zz66/matt1142008/FiFi/?action=view&current=utf-8BSU1HMDAwNjgtMjAxMDExMTktMTY0NS5qcGc.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://images.fiero.nl/photobucket/albums/zz66/matt1142008/FiFi/utf-8BSU1HMDAwNjgtMjAxMDExMTktMTY0NS5qcGc.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s814.photobucket.com/albums/zz66/matt1142008/FiFi/?action=view&current=utf-8BSU1HMDAwNjktMjAxMDExMTktMTY0NS5qcGc.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://images.fiero.nl/photobucket/albums/zz66/matt1142008/FiFi/utf-8BSU1HMDAwNjktMjAxMDExMTktMTY0NS5qcGc.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s814.photobucket.com/albums/zz66/matt1142008/FiFi/?action=view&current=utf-8BSU1HMDAwNzEtMjAxMDExMTktMTY0Ni5qcGc.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://images.fiero.nl/photobucket/albums/zz66/matt1142008/FiFi/utf-8BSU1HMDAwNzEtMjAxMDExMTktMTY0Ni5qcGc.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Try this again.

Lookin nice

Thanks, I will do the front and rear bumper tomorrow. That clear coat really spiced things up and made it glossy. Still have to figure out the brake problem. Runs pretty strong minus the kind of high idle.

Warm the car up. Jumper A-B and turn the key to on, but engine OFF. Wait at least 30 seconds for the IAC to fully close. Then unplug the IAC. Then remove the A-B jumper and start the car. You might need to use the throttle some to get the car to start.

If the engine is now idling over 1200 RPM you have either a vacuum leak, or your throttle stop is holding the throttle too far closed or perhaps your IAC isn't working. Take off the tube leading to the air cleaner housing and cover the IAC feed hole in the floor of the throttle body. If the idle drops - your IAC isn't closing. It might be gummed or jammed so clean it. If the idle stays the same then the IAC is closed. Then if the adjusting cap is still over the throttle stop you can assume vacuum.

If the engine is running at 500 rpm or less then your problem is with the ECM adjusting the IAC to achive a faster idle. The question would be WHY does the ECM want the engine to idle too fast.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-19-2010).]

Ok, well here is what I have done.
1. I took IAC out and cleaned it and the IAC hole.
2. I plugged the hole with my finger and the car stayed running. I think the idle dropped a little if I remember correctly.
3. I sprayed engine starting fluid everywhere in the engine bay to see if it would change the idle because of a vacuum leak, and nothing happened.
4. I capped under the EGR on the Y-pipe with a piece of an aluminum can and didn't change anything.
Any of these things tell you anything?

Did you try a block off between the upper manifold and the EGR pipe?

The aluminum piece is a little wider than the UPC. Don't take the 10mm headed bolts out, just loosen them and slip this in. This is the bottom of the intake manifold.



If the block off slows down the idle then you most likely have a cracked EGR to Intake tube. Blocking it off at the EGR end doesn't affect leaks in the tube, since the tube is still at intake manifold vacuum.

This crack in my EGR tube is what made my idle high



I braized the crack shut to fix the tube. It's a daily driver and it's been holding for a year now.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-19-2010).]

No, I didn't do it at the intake manifold. I did it at the egr end. I will try the intake end tomorrow.

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: 3. I sprayed engine starting fluid everywhere in the engine bay to see if it would change the idle because of a vacuum leak, and nothing happened. ?

Hey, don't those things catch fire?! All it would take is a spark from a leaky plug wire or anything within the engine bay to cause a major explosion or fire. Don't use starting fluid (ether) for this test. You can use a portable propane torch instead. Just open the valve enough to get the propane to flow. You can place the tip of the torch close to joints and vacuum lines and you have a controlled area whereas spraying starting fluid allows the vapor to spread throughout the engine bay and the surrounding areas. If you get ignition with the torch, it's easily controlled by turning off the valve or moving the torch away from the car. No explosions.

Haha, I had water hose handy when I did it. But I won't do it again. Ha. Guess I got lucky. Man, this things making me mad with the brake problem. I bought calipers from a forum member and a bleeder screw was stripped out, and the other caliper was leaking out the actuator screw or some other screw sticking out the back. The money I spent definately isn't wasted, but sucks the caliper I just bought have problems. A tap and die set would fix the bleeder screw, but on the other caliper the nut that screws on to it just spins when I tighten. I think my old calipers are still good so I may try them. Its a never ending process happening to a college kid. Haha.

Ok, I am in the process of painting my front bumper, and the piece that goes down in the middle of both nostrils broke so the top and bottom of the bumper sags where it broke. What's the best way to adhere this back together so it will be about as strong as it was before it was broken? 300zxmaster has the fiberglass components and we will probably try that with some fiberglass cloth/matt, just thought I would get you opinions.

On your stripped out bleeder it's possible to fix that.

You get a thing like this from your parts store. You tap out the stripped hole to the size of the bigger thing and screw that in permantly and leave it in the caliper. Then you just put the new bleeder in that thing.

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: Ok, I am in the process of painting my front bumper, and the piece that goes down in the middle of both nostrils broke so the top and bottom of the bumper sags where it broke. What's the best way to adhere this back together so it will be about as strong as it was before it was broken? 300zxmaster has the fiberglass components and we will probably try that with some fiberglass cloth/matt, just thought I would get you opinions.

http://gafieroclub.org/bbs/index.php?topic=469.0

~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Phonedawgz, thanks for the point in the right direction on the bleeder screw. I will most likely invest in that. When I was loosening the bleeder screw on it, nothing was happening so I got it to go in the caliper so air didnt leak out. Then when I was trying to bleed from the banjo bolt fluid would come out, but the pads didnt get any closer to the rotor. They are touching it, but not enough to apply much pressure. And the other side basically did the same thing. Nothing through the bleeder screw, and very little fluid through the banjo. I think I may need the lines going to the caliper as Fierofool stated.

Tha driver, I figured you would chime in on that one. Thanks for the link and I will check it out and see what I can do.

You didn't replace the rubber lines right?

You have the bolt with the hole in it that bolts the banjo of the line to the caliper right?

If fluid reaches the end of the rubber line but not through the caliper how can it be a bad rubber line?

Did you check to see if your bleeder bolt middle hole is stuffed full of junk? A little drill bit spun with your fingers should clear the passage in the bleeder if that's it.

Did you pull the bleeder all the way out? If with the bleeder all the way out fluid isn't comeing out, but fluid will come out at the banjo bolt of the caliper that seems VERY strange.

Also, Phonedawgz, I realize this is an old car, and there will be a lot to fix, basically by me "whining" earlier, I am just tired of having brake problems, I would just like to move on to the next problem. But until then, I will take this thing one problem at a time.

Remember in a stock bleeder - the seal is at the bottom of the bleeder. Unscrewed that seal comes up a bit, and lets the fluid flow into the hole in the side and out the top. No sealing is done at the threads.



re: whining - np, I hear ya. You want to drive the car not fix it constantly. It's cool to learn some about the car ect, but we all own cars to drive, not to fix.

You are getting closer to having everything fixed. Let's see what we can do to get you there quickly!

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-20-2010).]

Well that makes a lot of sense, but i dont know how much fluid actually goes into the caliped, but from what it seems, the rate at which the fluid is coming out of the rubber lines is so low that there isnt enough fluid coming out. I could be wrong.

I did not replace the hoses, not yet at least. If I do, I would like to go with the stainless in all 4 corners.

And, yes I did have the banjo bolt with the hole in it in the caliper.

No I didnt not check the bleeder screws, or have I pulled them to check for a gunked up hole.

With the bleeder out you shoud get a good squirt of fluid through the bleeder hole when you press the pedal. Enough to squirt a few inches. Did your brake light come on? If the wire to the proportioning valve is connected does the light come on now?