Sorry for the confusion, but the 85 GT was the one on the sign. The 84 was the one in the the yard. So the sail panels are glass. What can I get out the 84 other than what I mentioned? Headlight Relays and motors?

Rear view side mirrors, side marker lights, sun visors if the ends aren't broken. People tend to grab the end of the visor near the side window and break it when they pull it down. Overhead light console, light switches, remote trunk release solenoid if it has one. I think the headlight wiring is different from the 85, but still might be converted or cannibalized for future parts.

If it's a manual, get the short shifter handle out of it. Makes a great replacement for the longer ones used in the later model years. You can just swap out the shifter lever without changing the base. The 84 shifter cables won't do you any good for the V6. They're a little shorter than yours.

So basically exterior stuff? It is a 4 speed auto, so trannsmission stuff will be out the question. Would the calipers and brake hoses/lines be the same? considering my brake line is broken. Once I grap this sunroof after a few weeks and a good rain, nothing inside the car will be any good. Where is the trunk latch solenoid located I believe mine has gone bad considering mine does not work.

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: So basically exterior stuff? It is a 4 speed auto, so trannsmission stuff will be out the question. Would the calipers and brake hoses/lines be the same? considering my brake line is broken. Once I grap this sunroof after a few weeks and a good rain, nothing inside the car will be any good. Where is the trunk latch solenoid located I believe mine has gone bad considering mine does not work.

You could pull the switches. The 84 had black switches, but they will work in all year cars. The trim around the speedo, radio, and shifter are also darker than the 85-87 trim pieces.

Inside door latch trim, to include power door lock buttons. Power window switches, though they are black. If color is an issue, they can be sprayed. Black trunk carpeting is always a prized item. Many prefer it over the gray.

The trunk release solenoid is located on the back side of the trunk key cylinder. It's the latching mechanism. Brake calipers and lines are interchangeable. You can rebuild the calipers, put them on the shelf for fast replacement should you need. Steel lines can be used if they aren't rusted. Coolant recovery bottle if the ears aren't broken and it has no cracks. Though the bottles are still available at TFS, never hurts to have a spare one to put on while you're waiting for the new one to be shipped. Switches and bezels from the instrument cluster if the graphics are still good. Sunroof wind deflector and maybe even the cowling piece it rests in if the foam rubber glass padding is still in place. Could be a good restoration piece for your 86.

If you get the sunroof glass, you may also want to try to get the gasket, too, if it's in good shape. As a courtesy, I would find an old hood or something to cover the open sunroof after removing the glass.

Ok, I will have this page pulled up on my phone when I go so I can check things off. Putting a hood over the top is a good idea. On the black carpet note, the trunk carpet was gray in this one. I am just going to get everything possible I guess, and at least I will have it just in case someone on here may need it one day. Would like to take the whole car, but with the engine, transmission, and car not really match mine, It isn't worth it to me. Anyone else need anything? I would be happy to pul it. Interior was in pretty good condition. Engine bay was pretty rusted, but some stuff was good.

Is there anything on the 4 cyl I can use on my v6?

Well, I replaced the brake hoses, the stupid parts store sent the ones I ordered back because I didn't get it the day they came in. So I went to the brake hoses in the back on the store and got similar ones, and new fittings. I also cut the brake lines and reflared them and bled the system. The car brakes better, but still not safe in my opinion. The front tires lock up and screech under full braking and from looking at it, it looks as if it stops good, just that compared to my truck the car stops way slower.

Went to the junkyard today,and got the radio surround, speedo surround, IAC, headlight dimmer switch, deck lid open switch, spoiler, stock jack (mine came with a honda civic jack), and coolant temp sensor pigtail. He only charged me $20 plus tax for it all. Will be back tomorrow. Still debating on seats, radio, sunroof, and sail panels. Couldn't figure out how to remove steering wheel.

Not sure if anyone is still following, but just to update my status, I took the random brake hoses I got at the parts store off, and put fiero ones on the car. Bled the system, and took it for a ride. Car seems to stop pretty good, but under extreme circumstances, may not be able to stop in time. Front wheels lock up and slide under full braking. New tires may help the situation a little better. Also I started diagnosing the fact that I had no dash lights or lights in the rally gauges. Well first problem was that there was no fuse for the dash plugged into the fuse box, so I replaced it and the rally gauge lights came on, so I checked the bulbs in the dash, and all were good, and upon putting them back in, the middle light for the fuel and temperature guage came on. Not sure what could cause this. Any ideas?

Aren't you supposed to be able to lock up your brakes under full braking?

Your Fiero doesn't have ABS.

Idealy all four would lock at the same time however depending on tires, loading, road surface ect they will lock up not exactly at the same time.

Yes, from what I understood fronts should lock up, I was just saying it to show I from the front. I don't think the rears are locking up all though they could be. I can't tell from driving the car.

I forgot to tell ya'll I got a front bumper, boTh complete doors, rear deck lid, side skirts, all four quarter panels, and a few trim pieces that go around the doors on the interior of the car all for $60. All the parts are off an 86 GT, and everything will fit my car minus the decklid, but I mainly wanted the spoiler off of it anyway. Thought I made a good deal on this one. The car was red with gray side skirts and lower molding. Will post a pic of everything when I get home tonight.

Nice

Here is a picture of the parts I got.



Also I installed an aftermarket radio I had laying around the house I got from the local junkyard a while back. Here is a short video of it playing. Have to get the cool light up install kit to match the color of the light on the radio.



Also, I drove the car to a christmas social we had at work tonight, a total of about 5-6 miles both ways. Seemed to drive fine, I need to replace bothe the front tie rod ends, but I am trying to wait until after christmas. Got up to about 68 mph according to the GPS, and the steering wheel started rattling. (probably because of the blown tie rod ends) Funny thing about the drive is a college kid with an older model Z06 Corvette came up behind me when I pulled off my road, and with my exhaust dumped, my car sounds mean, so he tried to race me the whole way to the social. I pulled into my parking spot, and he kept driving and went back the way we came. I never once even egged it on. I was surprised to make it to the social and back to be honest. But thats a beginning to a bright future for FIFI. (at least I hope so)

Shaking front wheel = front tire(s) out of balance.

Sweet, once I replace the front tie rod ends, I will get a 4 wheel alignment. I will need tires soon after, mine are dry rotted terribly. Both problems may contribute to the shaking of the steering wheel, but didn't really do it until speeds around 60.

Here is a couple more pics.

Spoiler Test Fit


Luggage Rac Removed


Now to fill the holes, and drill new ones. Any recommendations on filling the holes? I have an idea of what I am going to do, but I am open to what you guys have to say or have experienced.

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: Now to fill the holes, and drill new ones. Any recommendations on filling the holes? I have an idea of what I am going to do, but I am open to what you guys have to say or have experienced.

Do a search with my username. I've told several folks how to do it.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Well I attempted to fill the holes on the decklid. I think it looks pretty good, I have a coat of filler primer on it at the moment until I get the stock paint color or just do a gray for the mean time. Replaced fan remp switch, because the fan doesn't switch on when the car gets warm, well, I let the car heat to 220* and still no fan. Also, I noticed a small fitting on the filler neck is cracked at the weld and squirts water when the water gets warm enough. Any ideas on any of these? Also, the only lights on the instrument cluster that work are the fuel and temp gauge and the aux gauges. Speedo, and tach don't light up.

First make sure the fan turns on when you take a paperclip and stick it in the end of the connector of the temp switch and ground it to the engine. That should make the fan run

Then go take the car and drive it hard on the highway. Up one of those mountians would be good. Then after good hard drive stop and just let it idle. Make sure the heater is turned off - temp cold - so you don't loose heat there. After a bit you should get the fan to run. Many find it is hard to get the engine hot enough to get the fan to turn on and think it's broke.

The filler neck of the radiator, or the thermostat neck. Thermostat neck can be welded. You have to drain it down and take it off. You might also want to just consider getting a second one instead.

Take a T15 screw driver and unscrew the 5 T-15 torx screws on the rear cover of the instrement panel. You now have access to all of the lights. You can check them individually. On my non-GT panel there are 6 dash lights. Two near the upper center, two on the upper corners and two in the middle center. The wiring for the dash lights are seperated as follows:

Upper Center and upper corner L
Upper Center and upper corner R
Lower Center L
Lower Center R

So if you have two of the upper center lights on, the upper corner light sockets must have power also

Things to check
1 are bulbs good
2 are the sockets making contact
3 Are the main harness connectors fully inserted in the dash connectors
4 Are there breaks in the printed circuit

A test light really makes troubleshooting the dash lights easy.

Thanks for the in detail instructions on the dash. I had it apart before, but didn't know what I was looking at. The bulb wasn't the problem, because I moved them around and nothing changed. I used jb weld on the filler neck. How long do you think that will hold? I can braze it, or have it re welded. I just did a temporary fix to see how it held up.

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: Made decent progress today, got the transmission back on, and just about finished porting the exhaust manifolds. Mainly got a lot of stuff painted, and had trouble getting the tie rod end back in place. still have to fix that. Here are a couple pics. I personally LOVE how the dog bone came out. The paint finish is amazing, and the red bushings look amazing. What do you guys thin of these? They are Ruff Racing universal 5 lug Thought the color scheme weent well. I'd like to see some pictures of the ported side (before and after). It's my understanding that the stock manifolds were punched out in a square shape, and really create lots of back pressure...loosing lots of horse power..?

What exactly are you asking?

Well if the JB doesn't hold then braze it.

So in the dark, lights on, you can't get the bulbs to light?

You have a test light right?

Look at the traces - you can follow the trace from outside upper bulb to inside upper bulb. If the inside upper bulb is getting power, the outside one HAS to be also. Take your test light, clip the clip to a good ground and see where you have power. You can probe with the test light ANYWHERE there is a light bulb and not worry about damaging the dash. Don't proble the other circuits of the dash however.

I do not have a test light, but I do have a DVOM. And yes, when I moved a lit bulb to an un lit spot, the bulb didn't come on.

So trace the trace with your volt meter and figure out why the other bulbs aren't working. What is missing? +12v or ground? Why is it at the other light but not this one?

If you get a chance to get a 12v test light for reasonable price (like $3.00) they are actually easier to use than the volt meter in situations like this. Better to use for checking fuses also. Turn the circuit on and with the fuse in place touch the metal contacts of the fuse WITH THE FUSE STILL IN PLACE. You should get a light on both sides of the fuse. No power on either side of the fuse - well then why isn't power getting to the fuse? Power on only one side - blown fuse. You can check EVERY fuse in the time it takes to pull and look at 3. Plus the checks are better checks cause they are in circuit and also check not just for voltage, but enough power to light the light.

10-4, I am not sure if I will be able to work on the car for a while, because christmas day I am going to Fernandina Beach, FL for a few days. Know any fiero guys in that area?

Well I'm back in town and I played with car a little today. I installed the VSS gear I got from a forum member, and checked the speedo against my GPS, and they were pretty even. Also, the JB weld on the filler neck held up pretty well, and the fan temp switch works, and the fan comes on when the temo gets too high, and goes off when the engine cools down. I am preparing the car to be painted, so I fiberglassed a couple cracks on the car, and sanded them smooth. The decklid luggage rack holes came out real well filled in. I sanded the whole lid, and primed and painted it a metallic gray, but it actually matched up pretty well. I ordered Rodney Dickmans front tie rod ends a couple days ago, so they should be here soon. Me and 300zxmaster are painting our cars right after each other, so now we are working on building a paint booth.

Great to see the updated progress report. Keep at it. If it's roadworthy, the GFC is joining the Georgia Triumph Association for a Polar Bear run this Saturday, starting in Locust Grove. Info can be found on the Georgia Fiero message board.

I think I will have to pass on that one fierofool. My tie rod ends have yet to come in, and I still need to run my exhaust and do my intake. Thanks for keeping me updated on the GFC. The other day I got to thinking about wrapping my y-pipe and upper exhaust pipe with the heat wrap from a parts store, would that help keep the engine cooler or protect engine parts that are around the hot pipes? Just a thought.

I went back and looked at your engine pictures and it looks like you've got all the heat shields in place, except maybe the one for the slave cylinder. I couldn't see that in any pics. It's very close to the exhaust and when sitting still, that heat rises right up to it. Wrapping from the Y pipe to the converter may be beneficial. Just don't wrap the o2 sensor.

Heat wraps will help to reduce bay temps, but the heat has to go somewhere. There's no way to measure, but it might cause the converter or muffler to fail prematurely if you wrap everything.

Good info, and I went back and put the slave cylinder heat shield in place. I plan to put a small muffler where the catalytic converter is and completely remove the CAT. Not that it really matters, but just in case it does. Ha.

Actually the car would sound pretty good without the cat and it's another area that generates heat when you have a cat or resonator in that area. I run my 87 without a cat and when I was running at Road Atlanta, 2 people asked me if I had a V8 in the car.

Yea, I figured it would, I have a lot of experience with exhausts, but not on a car like a fiero. I plan to do a 5" racing magnaflow muffler in the place of the cat, I want to get a small y pipe made by magnaflow to keep the stock duals. My car is extremely loud right now with the exhaust dumped at the bottom of the y-pipe.

I put a straight pipe in place of the cat on my first formula & it sounded great. But not as good as the kit (308) my brother had which had only a glasspack in place of the cat, & no other muffler.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

I've seen where quite a few people went the glass pack route and liked the way it sounded. I am just kind of biased to magnaflow and love the deeper rumble it puts out.

Haven't been posting much because I am trying to get back in the swing with school and stuff. I did manage to get one tie rod changed out tonight. Also, I have been working on building a shelter for FIFI so I can park my truck and my girlfriends car under the shelter, and also put my tools and compressor in a shed and not just chain them up to the pole on the shelter. I will no longer have as easy an access to water, but I do have easy access to power still, and everything will stay out of the weather more. I will upload a pic of my wonderfully constructed shed with as little money spent as possible when I get closer to completing it. Meanwhile, here is a pic of the removed tie rod



I replaced it with rodney dickmans, and it is way better IMO than parts store products and for the same price. Made a mistake buying parts store ends for the rear.

Looks like it was floppy like a wet noodle. You will need to get an alignment after the parts are replaced. Don't be surprised if it drives for crap before you get the alignment. Take a long rod and a spare rim if you have one to put up against your rim to get an idea of toe in. Toe in needs to be checked with the wheels on the ground. Shoot for 0 deg toe in on the rear end. In other words that the bar is parallel with the body of the car. This will get you close enough that you can drive it to the alignment shop. A little toe in works also but if you have toe out the rear end will want to go one way and then the other as you drive.

I haven't given up on the fiero, just been busy with work and school, but I did start pulling apart some extra doors I had to remove the window felts because mine are dry rotted to Hell, and talk about a pain in the a$$. Also, I set the timing at 8* the other day, and then looped the boot, and steam came rolling out, and what do you know a pin hole in the radiator. I plan to fix the radiator for the time being, and get my new wheels and tires put on and an alignment done. Also, if I change ball joints, would I need another alignment, and are the Rodney dickmans 1" lowering ball joints worth it, or should I just get oem joints, and lowering springs?