quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: Ok, so I am trying to narrow things down on my car I have a code 33 showing up. I have tried 7 different MAP sensors from the junkyard. I know they can't all be bad. And car doesn't idle right. But sometimes it drives fine. So today while it was idling bad I unplugged a random wire from the distributor and the idle didn't change but it sparked so I assume I have a misdirected due to an injector. Am I right to assume so? How would I check this? Also I have a just about new IAC from an 84 and I would like to know if I could use it on my car?

If your vacuum line is not connected, if it's connected to a 'ported' vacuum source, if the lines are leaking, or if one of the other devices on the vacuum lines are leaking, it can cause a code 33

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Take a look at this thread about replacing the plastic lines with hobby store aluminum lines
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...070315-1-061913.html

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 10-21-2011).]

See, that is exactly my problem I can't find a leak anywhere. And I have been constantly cutting down on lines that can leak. For instance the removal of EGR. What about the line running to the brake booster. I read somewhere the other day something about it leaking at the brake booster or something. Idk. It's my only other suspect. Maybe after all this I will magically fix something and the car will run perfect. The insides of the engine are beautiful. It's just something with vacuum or electrical somewhere. I am ready to see what this trueleo intake can do.

Here is an updated pic of the wheels and tires. Tomorrow I will prepare for some paint and hopefully shoot some paint on the car Thursday. Hopefully I will have my booth ready by then.

Here is a pic of what I got back from the powder coat shop today.



I have the valve covers installed, and throttle body mounted to the intake, and a couple bolts boating the intake to the lower intake, but I had to go get some shorter ones, so tomorow hopefully I will finish the install.

I'm getting there. Getting the injectors back in doesn't look fun.

That should really be connected. It helps to relieve some pressure from the crankcase so you don't develop oil leaks. Putting a filter on it will still relieve some of the pressures and vapors, but it's nothing like having it pulled out by the vacuum of the intake. Can you still use the stock intake tube with the Truleo setup? If you can, I'd just put it back into the intake tube.

You can, but I am in fear I had a vacuum leak somewhere before, and I'm trying to eliminate all unnecessary hoses, and replace existing ones with rubber hoses. Any downfalls my current pcv setup?

That line coming out of the back valve cover isn't a vacuum port. Even if you left it completely open, it wouldn't affect the running of the engine, so it can't cause a vacuum leak symptom. It's actually under pressure from the engine blow-by. Using the throttlebody vacuum to scavenge the oil vapors and burn them is a good way to reduce emissions to the atmosphere. That line was part of the recall to prevent engine fires when the original line would unplug from the valve cover. A small filter will work, but would need to be changed regularly. Also, being on the back side of the engine, out of sight, it could be forgotten about. As it becomes saturated with oil vapors, they begin to run down toward the exhaust manifold. Instant flamberge.

Well I will leave it stock then. Is there something wrong with rubber hose idea? Looks a little cleaner to me and easier to move around.

Yes, I thought you were talking about the PCV rebreather tube. Moving the distributor without the ALDL jumpered will produce no results as the ECM will over ride your adjustment to maintain the setting.....to a point that you twist the distributor beyond the ability of the ECM to compensate. Did you reset the IAC and connect the MAP sensor to the fuel pressure regulator?

I don't know anything about the Truleo manifold, but the hose you're talking about doesn't look right to me. Compared to stock, it looks like something's missing. You could leave a couple of inches of the hard plastic line attached and slip a piece of hose over it to connect to the manifold. Have you tried capping that port on the intake to see if the problem goes away?

Ok, so by resetting the IAC, do you mean screwing it all the way in? And I have set the timing many times, I know to jump the aldl to set it. Fuel pressure regulator is connected to the map sensor. I capped the line on the intake neck, and the two on the bottom of the throttle body. One was for the egr, and the other two went to the EVAP system. Correct me if I'm wrong. Idk where or for sure even know I had a leak, I couldn't find or hear one. It won't run long enough now to diagnose anything.

Also, i have 7730 so you disconnect a wire to set timing. But yes I have been doing that. All vacuum lines are correct other than the one I noted above about blocking off. So those 2 lines that run across the trunk wall have nothing going to them.

[This message has been edited by 86FIFI (edited 10-27-2011).]

To reset the IAC, remove it and adjust the length of the pintle rod to 1 1/8 inches then reinstall it. I think someone else had posted in another thread about how to adjust it without removing it, but I can't find it. Having never worked on a Truleo setup, I'm at a loss beyond standard procedures. The no run condition sounds to be fuel related though, since it will fire up and die.

I will try resetting the IAC. 300zxmaster said he read somewhere that a lean condition could cause problems very similar to mine. One thing I noticed is there was fuel dripping from the fuel rail, and it seemed to be coming from the shrader valve. It wasnt coming from the lines. I do know when you buy a trueleo intake new it comes with a chip with a minor tune to adjust to the extra air flow. I have the 7730 so I wouldnt be able to use it anyway. But to run TunerPro RT on the car and get the diagnostics, it has to be running. So my first step would get it to idle long enough to run the program to fix the tune.

Very strange, At first i believed the problem to be a simple timing issue but we double checked the rotor was in the number 1 position while cylinder 1 was at TDC. It will run very shortly for barely a few seconds then die. I have seen a few things where a lean condition will cause a short running time as well as backfire through the intake, we have both of those.

Is there absolutely no possibility that you're 180 out of time? The number 1 exhaust stroke will hit the mark, too.

(Light bulb turns on) This is a possibility. I had never thought of it that way. That would explain the firing during the intake stroke i imagine. Looks like we will spin it 180 and see if it gets better.

[This message has been edited by the300zxmaster (edited 10-28-2011).]

If it is running for two seconds the distributor is NOT 180 off. It can not run with the distributor 180 off.

Turn the crank clockwise till the pointer on the crank is at 10 deg before tdc. Then open up the dist and make sure the rotor is pointing at either #1 or #4 (doesn't matter which at this time) and then align the prongs and points of the pick up reluctor and stator. The timing will be close enough (+/- 5 deg) to run.

This assumes you have been getting a partial run. Since you can't get a partial run with the dist 180 off, it should be a safe assumption. If you want to check for 180 off, pull the #1 plug and stick your friends finger in the hole (or a screw in compression gauge) and rotate the crank clockwise till the piston is on the compression stroke and forcing air out past your friends finger. Then continue clockwise stopping at 10 deg before tdc. If you over pass it, rotate the crank backwards (counter clockwise) well past 10 deg btdc and then come at it again going only clockwise.

I just really really hate the idea of moving the dist 180 and then moving it again and playing with it and never knowing when it is right until the engine runs. I really like the straight forward way this works.

Also here is a video of an example of too much advance. Notice how the engine stops during cranking. Too much advance would be fixed by rotating the distributor the same direction as the rotation of the rotor. That would be clockwise to retard it.

What happens with too much advance, is when a cylinder fires, it is way before tdc, and the firing of the cylinder actually tries to turn the crank backwards, stopping the rotation of the crank by the starter motor.



Backfiring into the intake indicates the timing is WAY off and the intake valve is still open when the spark arrives, or possibly a more serious trouble.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 10-28-2011).]

That is possible, I will try it 180* the other way next time I have a chance.

If you do decide to reset the timing 180*, the easiest way is to remove the 1 and 4 plug wires from the distributor cap, swap their places, then progress around the distributor swapping 2 and 5, then 3 and 6. Much easier to put back should it not be the answer.

Seems like I have done that before on this car, u will try that first, seems simpler.

I swear I typed up a long winded message earlier today, and it's not freakin' here.

Anyway... Got your PM.

Other than the PCV, which is connected to manifold vacuum, the only vacuum lines you need to get the engine running smoothly are the MAP and Fuel Pressure Regular.
Both of mine ran off of a T connector that went to the small hose barb on the back of the Trueleo.
There are two other lines that go to the evap canister, but they are not necessary for testing. BUT... make sure that both of the vacuum fittings on the bottom of the TB are plugged.

The brake booster hose goes to the large hose barb on the back of the Trueleo.
I found (on an 88) that the hose barb was still too small. I had to sleeve it up just a bit before I clamped the booster hose to it.

If you are sure the MAP sensor is good and keep getting codes, check for damaged pins in the connector (both on the MAP and the harness connector) and make sure the wiring is correct, and not damaged. On a 3 wire connector, it's very easy to get two wires swapped. Been there.

Of course, make sure that any unused hose barbs are capped off.

Edit - Go here for vacuum diagrams.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...502-2-095297.html#p2

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Raydar
88 Formula IMSA Fastback. 4.9, NVG T550

Praise the Lowered!

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 10-28-2011).]

I ran my vacuum hoses just as you described. Capped the barbs on the bottom of the TB and the one on the neck of the trueleo. I have my map and FPR ran off a T as well, and had no problem wig the barb for the brake line on the trueleo. I guess you didn't have a problem with timing like I am after your install, because you just removed the cap. I pulled the whole thing out to make things as easy as possible and paying for it now. I will play with the car in the morning and let tough guys know what I come up with.

Double check your firing order. It can be confusing which wire goes to which plug in the front hidden bank. If you do what I said for pre-timing and you are getting any back fires in the intake, your order is most likely off.

1 - 2 - 3- 4 - 5 - 6

Clockwise

I'm pretty sure all that is correct. But I will double check and do what you said. Let's see what I can come up with. Wish me luck.

You have #1 being the cylinder just below the dog bone right?

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: We put #1 piston at TDC and placed the rotor facing #1 plug wire.

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: Here is a video of what it is doing..

You're pumping the pedal. Don't do that.
At best, it does nothing. At worst, it's telling the ECM that you are trying to accelerate, and it's giving it a "pump shot", causing it to flood.
For the flooding... Hold the gas all the way to the floor, while cranking. That will set the ECM for "clear flood" mode.
When (if) if fires, it's going to chug and smoke like hell. You might have to hold the starter as it starts to run.
As it clears its throat, let off the gas slowly.
(Normally, Fieros will start with your foot completely off the gas, unless it's sub-freezing out.)

If the plugs are wet, they probably won't fire. You might have to remove them and let them dry.

Once you get it running, pull out the dipstick and give it a sniff. If it smells like gas, change your oil. (I don't know how badly it's been flooded. May not be necessary.)

Ok, I tried holding the pedal and starting for like 15 seconds and nothing. Also, I pulled the back 3 plugs and wiped them and made sure I was getting spark. In the video my friend was pumping the gas, but that was the only time we did it. Just to see if it changed anything for the video. Which it didn't. I'm confused.

I'm at a loss. I hate to just throw new parts at the car. I could get a new cap and motor, but I am getting spark. What now?

Since you have spark, verify you have a constant fuel supply and that it's not something else shutting down. Get a can of spray brake or carb cleaner and spray it into the intake continually to keep it running. If it does keep running, then you're losing your fuel supply.

Well i tried starter fluid once when it was starting for a couple seconds and died and the car backfired through the intake and ignited the little bit of starter fluid. But im getting no backfire now. So I could possible try that. I have a strong smell of gas though and when trying to start, fuel leaks out the shrader valve.