Fix the fuel leak before you do anything else. You don't need a Car-B-Que.

How? It just comes out the schrader valve lime there is too much pressure in the fuel rail and it is relieving some. I realize this isn't supposed to happen, but is this a symptom of a bad schrader valve, and is it replacable? It isn't much, but its noticeable.

The stem is replaceable and there should be a cap with an O-ring seal on the valve. It isn't the same stem as a tire or AC. It has to be ethanol resistant.

I have no cap, and fuel comes out the top of it. Should I replace the stem, or get a cap.

Most importantly, replace the valve stem. The fuel rail can function without a cap, but is too dangerous with a leaking valve stem. If you can't get one at a parts store, LMK. I have one from a Firebird fuel rail.

Well I had no luck tonight. Doesn't even act like it wants to start. I did exactly what PD said, I pulled the schrader valve and pulled the core out and cleaned them both and reinstalled them, and gas still comes out the middle of it. Looks like I may need a new one. I have spark, and my injectors are spraying. The smell of gas is strong. This is the most inconsistent car I have ever seen. If it develops a problem it is never the same thing over and over it changes. Right after the install of trueleo, I left a vacuum hose on the bottom of the TB that plugs into the lower intake unplugged, and the car started up and idled a minute or so, until I found the leak. Once I connected the two, and started the car and it would start and die. Tried PD's method and moving the plug wires all the way around the cap, and never even acted like it wanted to start. All my wires at my ECM are connected, fuel pump primes on startup. What to try next?

We removed the valve and core from the rail, cleaned it very well and reinstalled. Then we followed the procedure for aligning the distributor exactly, although we weren't off very much to start with.The timing is right for sure %110. We gave it a crank and just turns over and over and over. No sound of life. It smells of fuel, LOTS.

I am not quite sure what to think now. Ever since the beginning the running condition has been inconsistant. One day it would start up and run fine drive fine and then the next day it would be difficult to start and would just not run very well. The running condition would change drastically but we did not change anything at all.

After installing the 7730 it started right up BUT just like before but the running condition was very sporadic. Sometimes it is hard to start or wont start at all but other times it would run like a raped ape.

Most recently before installing the trueleo intake it wasnt running great and not staying running much at all. After installing the intake we aligned the distributor and it fired up somewhat ok but had a MASSIVE leak. Turns out the tube from the TB to lower intake wasn't completely hooked in. After hooking that up It reluctantly started but idled about 200 rpms (barely).

Now it just wont start at all and everything seems right. Timing is correct, we are getting spark, and we can smell all the unburned fuel as well as listening to injectors with screw driver to make sure injector coil is firing. We went through the wiring diagram and all the 7730 wires are in there correct place including the ones which required splicing or soldering. All connectors are free of corrosion and have firm connection.

I have heard of brand new plugs fouling out beyond operable condition, but only a few times and not sure exactly how likely that is.


Hope i didnt miss anything......

[This message has been edited by the300zxmaster (edited 11-01-2011).]

I'm not sure how the Coolant Temperature Sensor works with the 7730, but if it has defaulted to cold with the stock ECM, it can quickly flood the engine to the point it won't start. You might try unplugging it, holding the accelerator to the floor and try starting it. As explained earlier, WOT is the Clear Flooding mode. Rather than just checking spark off a wire, try removing a plug and see if it's sparking. They could be fuel fowled. If they are, spray the electrodes with Electric Motor Contact Cleaner. It's di-electric and leaves no residue.

I have tried doing the flood mode thing with no luck, and when i check for spark, I did it by pulling the easy 3 plugs out, and using a device from the parts store. So the plugs were sparking. I can try unplugged the CTS and doing the flood mode thing and see if that helps.

Also, when I pulled those three plugs out and checked them for spark, (all three plugs out at once) the car sounded more likely that it was going to start.

[This message has been edited by 86FIFI (edited 11-02-2011).]

Only thing I can think of that I didnt see anybody else suggest is your injector grounds. The two injector grounds coming from the ECM need to have a good ground to the block or even the head. My first big mistake when doing the 7730 swap was switching the light green MAP wire and the light green incetor wire. The injector wires have two green going into one bigger green, and two blues going into one bigger blue. I'm sure you know this, but what I didnt realize was so did the MAP. The Map has two greens going into one bigger green, that is the same color as the green injector wires. My point I guess is it doesnt hurt to recheck the wiring. Also good idea to make sure your injector clips are on tight on each of the injectors.

quote Originally posted by phonedawgz:

This is actually my dads but that engine is long gone....... heres the newest

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: I have tried doing the flood mode thing with no luck, and when i check for spark, I did it by pulling the easy 3 plugs out, and using a device from the parts store. So the plugs were sparking. I can try unplugged the CTS and doing the flood mode thing and see if that helps. Also, when I pulled those three plugs out and checked them for spark, (all three plugs out at once) the car sounded more likely that it was going to start.

I had the same problem with the T-Top. Try pulling the fuel pump fuse so it doesn't get gas any more. That's what it took to get mine started again. Once it starts hitting again (starting fluid may help once it clears up) plug the fuse back in. If it starts like this then I guess the injectors are stuck open. Perhaps some SeaFoam to clean the injectors will help. Haven't tried the T-Top since I got it running last time to see what it does...
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

Paul, I haven't pulled the fuse and tried to start it, but I have unplugged the fuel pump connector and tried to start it quite a few times. I just ordered a fuel pressure gauge to mount on the fuel rail, so hopefully that will tell me if it is a fuel problem. My distributor cap, rotor, and ICM are new, my ignition coil is new, and my plugs and wires were changed right after I got the car. I guess the plugs could possibly be fouled, but I would hope not. Also, fierofinder I will check those wires specifically, but when I went through and did the swap, I payed attention to color, but I focused mainly on the pin location rather than the color listed. The car has run since the 7730, but not since the trueleo install.

Fieroadam, may I ask why you posted pics and vids here? Nice car, BTW.

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: Fieroadam, may I ask why you posted pics and vids here? Nice car, BTW.

Ditto!

Ok, I got a fuel injection tester. What do I need to test for? Like fuel rail pressure after a full prime. Or what. I have a Haynes but don't have access to it ATM. Just figured it would be better to be safe than sorry.

Off the top of my head I believe the fuel pressure with the key on should be 45-48 psi, and should maintain that even after the fuel pump kicks off. If the pressure drops back down quickly after pump goes off than you need to clamp the return fuel line and turn the pump back on. This process will let you know if it is a bad fuel pressure regulator or leaky injectors. That is if the pressure isnt maintaining. If it is maintaining check it while cranking, I believe pressure should only drop a little. Hope this helps.

Thanks, I connect the pressure tester, and prime the car and get 45 psi. But then it falls to 0. First thing i thought was there is a leak some where. But without turning the ignition back off and starting the car so the pump doesn't prime again, the gauge jumps back up to 45 while trying to start but falls back to between 0 and 10psi when I bring the ignition back to off.

So you have one of two possibilities. Either an injector is leaking badly or the check valve of the fuel pump is bad.

Try this first - unplug the injector harness from the engine harness and see if the fuel pressure hold better.

Either way I think it would be prudent to pull the injectors up from the lower intake and see if one or more are leaking or passing fuel.

Will try. I do know that the front 3 plugs when pulled where soaked with gas. The back ones were not really wet at all. I will try your method and post back.

Ok, when unplugging the injector harness, after prime the pressure rose to 45 and still fell very slow, but as soon as I plugged it back in, and the ignition was in the key on engine off position all injectors spray until pressure is gone. Also, on prime all 6 are spraying until all the pressure is gone. What now?

The injectors pulse when the car is running. The ECM tells them when to fire. If they are just continously spraying then I would say you have a short somewhere, or maybe a wire switched. I suppose it could also be something with the ECM. For some reason they are getting direct power when they shouldnt be. I have a shop manual, I'll take a look at it ands see what it says.

The ECM fires the injectors by grounding them, so yours are grounded somewhere. You could reset the ECM to see if that helps.

Well after checking the diagram for the 7730 swap, inj B control says its blue, and supposed to ne in BC11 that wire is green on mine. Also inj A control is green as described. Also it says to delete inj A control and an Inj B control. One being blue and one being green. Mine are both blue. So I removed both blue, and left in the green. Keep in mind the car ran and was driven to town since the 7730 swap. And I also paid closer attention to the location of the wire that needed to move rather than color. So I don't think this is my problem just though I would throw it out there.

The diagram in the manual for the injector wires show that bath A and B have a green wire, and ab blue wire. Mine and I believe a lot of them were actually wired both green on one bank and both blue on the other. So one bank needs to have a blue wire and one needs a green wire. If you follow the wires up the harness a little you will notice they come together as one thicker blue wire and one thicker green wire. Be careful, MAP does the same thing with two green wires into one bigger green wire.

[This message has been edited by fierofinder (edited 11-06-2011).]

I have a blue and a green going into a blue wire, and a blue and a green going into a green wire. So in my 7730 wiring, I have a green from each plugged into the connector. Is this correct?

Has to be correct

[This message has been edited by 86FIFI (edited 11-06-2011).]

On the green wire with the blue and green spliced to it cut off the extra blue wire.

On the blue cut off the extra green.

Then terminate those two wires in the proper place on the 7730.

If you cut off both blues and used both greens that is fine also. Did you cut off the extra legs from those wires?

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-06-2011).]

Would that even matter as long as I use one wire from each? I used a wire from each, it just happened to be the green from each. So there is no problem there. Where to look next?

And the second wire is taped up or cut off so it doesn't ground out?

I fixed them spraying on prime. I'm going to attempt to plug them back in the intake and reinstall the plugs and see what happens and I also found out two clips werent all the way clipped in.

So they used to squirt on prime but now they don't?

And the car still doesn't start?

Fuel pump is running? INJ1 and INJ2 are installed? Do you have a volt meter?

Doesn't spray on prime, car doesn't start, inj A and B are connected as I described. I have a volt meter, and there is gas in my oil.

Fuel pump is turning on.

[This message has been edited by 86FIFI (edited 11-06-2011).]

What did you do to fix them from spraying on prime. Did you try turning it over with the fuel rail and injectors still out to see if they are spraying.

I think the wires that I was not using for injector control were grounding somewhere around the computer I pulled them away and taped them off and no more spray on prime. I did not check spray while turning the car over when they were out.

At the injector harness to engine harness connector. Open up the back side of one of the sides and then with a pin to get past the seal, back probe the connector and measure the voltage.



If you are not reading voltages in the normal range, your pin isn't making connection. You should be reading somewhere around +12v (black on ground)



Measure the pink and pink/white while cranking. You should be reading somewhere around 12v. No 12v? Bad INJ1 or INJ2 fuse.

Measure the voltage on the green and on the blue wire at the same connector during cranking. You should be getting about 4v less if the ECM is trying to fire the injectors. If the voltage is the same as on the pinks, the ECM is not trying to fire them.

Well my time for working on the car today is up. I will try that tuesday. Anything else to try while I an out there? I will have about an hour to play with. This is confusing.