Here is what happens with oil in the cylinders.

http://static.photobucket.c...142008/VIDEO0023.mp4

Ha! I wish I had something to add...how about a compression test?

I can try, but I'm pretty sure I have compression. But not 100% sure. Would make sense with it starting with oil in the cylinder and not starting when its burnt.

No ideas? I need a miracle.

You could always try to put it back the way it was when it ran........

Just don't make sense. All I did was replace the plenum. Took off coolant tubes, and cold start sensor. Car started after install but had a vacuum leak bad. Fixed it, and injectors constantly sprayed flooded it, fixed injectors and.still won't run. Changed plugs, cap, rotor, oil. Nothing. Got gas and spark and compression.

Maybe there is still something wrong with the injectors. Seems like you should not smell fuel. Are they the stock 15# units? Could the computer be changing the pulse somehow?

They are stock, and the computer is tuned by Darth Fiero with sinister performance so that is most likely not the problem. But people make mistakes. Many people run the 7730 with great success and I have driven it fine before the trueleo install. So I don't think my computer is the problem. Did you see the video? It seemed like it was going to do great and just died and wouldn't restart.

Did you take a plug out and look at it after it died?

All plugs look fine.

Any other ideas? I am going to pull the fuel rail back out and watch it spray on cranking. I don't understand why my oil smells like gas after changing. Where can I get a gasket for the bottom of the thermostat housing? I left mine attached when I brought it to be powder coated, and it wasn't here when I got it back. Tried thermostat housing gasket adhesive and when it ran in the last video water started flowing and I have a small leak. Check out the last vid if you haven't.

Don't you just love computer controlled cars! Mine smoked like that (but not that much!) when I first got it started again. I currently have the cold start injector unplugged, & the last time I started it I had to use starting fluid (but it pretty much quit smoking).
Looks like you're still getting too much fuel. And I still think you're timing is "special". I would pull the fuel pump fuse again to eliminate fuel getting to the engine, & advance the timing a little & see what it does. If it doesn't start after several tries then try the starting fluid.
I'm no expert by any means with this computer crap - I'm just going on what my car did. If it was carburated I could have it running in no time.
HTH,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts

Paul, since I dont really know what else to do, I try what you suggested everytime I work on it. Only time it starts is with oil in the cylinders. It sounds like it wants to start without oil but won't actually start. I advanced it until it started and stopped and retarded or "special" enough to get it to stop then I did what happened in the last video.

There is a possibility that the fuel pressure regulator is leaking gas into the intake via the vacuum line. There should be no fuel in the vacuum lines

Fuel pressure regulators have failed this way before.

Any particular way to go about doing that? Just pull the line run directly to it and inspect for gas, and if there is gas the regulator is bad?

Pull off the vacuum line to the intake and cycle the fuel pump.

Will do, and report back.

I may have found my problem. Pulled my fuel rail out, and my #2 injector is stuck open now. So I need to replace it at the least. Even unplugged it sprayed fuel on prime. Would this be enough to keep the car from running?

We will soon know....

Bad thing is with it being close to Christmas and insurance being due Friday, I don't have spare money to spend on it right now. It will have to wait.

YES!

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: I may have found my problem. Pulled my fuel rail out, and my #2 injector is stuck open now. So I need to replace it at the least. Even unplugged it sprayed fuel on prime. Would this be enough to keep the car from running?

You can prob get a stock injector or two for the cost of just shipping if you put a 'poor college student' beg post on the mall section here.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-30-2011).]

I may send some pm's to people who have some in their mall listing, but I don't want to beg for parts. I don't mind paying for it, I just don't have the extra cash ATM.

Ok, I broke down and made an ad and have a couple extras on the way. Also, where can I get a gasket to go under the thermostat housing? When I got mine powdercoated I never got it back. It looked like there was a metal ring in the center. When I reinstalled it, I just used gasket adhesive and it leaks a little so I would like to get a gasket. The parts store listing shows a real small gasket. Not sure what it is for.

Not for exhaust, egr, or head gaskets. You can use your 1/4 socket set to punch holes. Set the gasket material on a board, put the socket on top and give the socket a wack with your hammer to punch the hole. I would use thicker gasket material than a paper bag for your thermostat housing, but with just buying the material you are set with misc gaskets for a while.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 12-05-2011).]

I thought about that, just wasn't sure if one was made specifically for this. I guess I will begin on the construction of the new gasket.

If you use a thickness of gasket material that is thicker than a paper bag, you should be good with it, as long as the surfaces are not marred up. I also like to use gasket shellac to assure a good seal.

http://www.amazon.com/Perma...mpound/dp/B0008KLOG6

Head gaskets are specialty gaskets. Exhaust system gaskets need to be of a material rated for exhaust systems. Because of that you have to purchase the actual gasket. The valve cover gaskets are a specialty neoprene type. Beyond that there is nothing special about the other gaskets in the engine. Try to match the thickness of the material of the original gasket with the thickness of the material you are making the gasket out of. Generally the thickness of the gasket is dependent on the precision of the surfaces involved. Machined surfaces can use thin gaskets. Normal flat sealing surface valve covers and oil pans that might be less than straight use thick rubberized gasket material. Your thermostat housing can use a medium thickness gasket.



The water outlet gasket should be one that is stocked at your parts store. The gasket is used also in the following:
BUICK SKYHAWK (1982 - 1986)
BUICK SKYLARK 1985
CADILLAC CIMARRON (1982 - 1986)
CHEVROLET CAMARO (1982 - 1989)
CHEVROLET CAVALIER (1982 - 1986)
CHEVROLET CELEBRITY (1985 - 1986)
CHEVROLET CITATION II 1985
CHEVROLET LUMINA (1991 - 1997)
CHEVROLET LUMINA APV (1990 - 1995)
CHEVROLET MONTE CARLO (1995 - 1997)
CHEVROLET S10 BLAZER (1983 - 1989)
CHEVROLET S10 PICKUP (1982 - 1993)
FORD AEROSTAR 1986
FORD BRONCO II (1984 - 1985)
FORD MUSTANG 1979
FORD MUSTANG II (1974 - 1978)
FORD PINTO (1975 - 1979)
FORD RANGER (1983 - 1985)
GMC S15 JIMMY (1983 - 1989)
GMC S15 PICKUP (1982 - 1990)
GMC SONOMA (1991 - 1993)
ISUZU PICKUP (1991 - 1994)
ISUZU RODEO (1991 - 1992)
ISUZU TROOPER (1989 - 1991)
JEEP CHEROKEE (1984 - 1986)
JEEP COMANCHE 1986
JEEP WAGONEER (1984 - 1986)
MERCURY BOBCAT (1975 - 1979)
MERCURY CAPRI (1974 - 1979)
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS CIERA 1986
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME (1991 - 1996)
OLDSMOBILE FIRENZA (1982 - 1986)
OLDSMOBILE SILHOUETTE (1990 - 1994)
PONTIAC 6000 (1985 - 1986)
PONTIAC FIERO (1985 - 1988)
PONTIAC FIREBIRD (1982 - 1989)
PONTIAC GRAND PRIX (1991 - 1996)
PONTIAC J2000 (1982 - 1985)
PONTIAC SUNBIRD 1986

http://www.rockauto.com/cat...249208&parttype=2144

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 12-05-2011).]

In addition to the flat gasket, isn't there a very thin O-ring that also goes in there?

I thought something went in the center too. On my old one it looked like a metal ring though.

I've never had the filler neck off, but I seem to remember someone had a continuing leak and it was because the little O-ring had been overlooked. Maybe it was on a 4 cylinder, I'm not sure.

http://fierostore.com/Produ...px?s=52795&d=197&p=3

Went to the parts store and got the gasket pictured, pulled my fuel rail out and the bad injector off now I'm just awaiting the good one to come in the mail. I still need to change the oil again. Any other suggestions?

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: ...Any other suggestions?

Your cylinders are probably dry from being gas-washed. I would squirt a little bit of oil in them, again.

Oh yea, can't forget that.

I recieved a fuel rail full of injectors today, and they are not the same as mine. What is the difference, and raydar if you still have an extra and it is like mine I would like to take it off your hands.

Injectors I received installed in the fuel rail


Comparison of the two. Mine is on the right with no cap or o rings

Those look like the Tomco injectors that the Fiero Store sells.
If they are in working condition, they should be fine - especially with the 7730.
If they are all six supposed to be good, I would go ahead and clean them up, and run them.

The ones I have, have the cap on the end that looks like a derby hat. I've never had occasion to take the caps off, but I'm guessing they look like your originals.
I don't have a full set, however.

Let me know...

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 12-07-2011).]

Ok. Yea, mine have a hat like cap. If you have just one known working one that's all I need. The set I recieved was missing one injector so I have five of each type assuming all five of his are good.

Everything I have is "unknown". But I'll send them all.
I'll try to get them out tomorrow. Depends on when I finish at work. We're short handed tomorrow.

Ok, well I sent you a pm with my address. Let me know if you need something or what I owe you.

Finally... Four injectors on the way. Sorry for the delay.
They should be there on Monday.

I make no claims as to their condition, but they came out of a Fiero fuel rail, so they should at least be the right ones.
If you have a way to test them, I would recommend it, highly. If nothing else, take a 9V battery and at least make sure they "click".