If you do the 9v battery click test - at that time you can blow through them (when you have the 9v applied) and you should feel that you are getting a little bit of air through them. It's a very crude test but it should weed out injectors that are totally bad.

Knock any stuck shut injectors with a screw driver handle to try to free them up. Stuck injectors won't click at all with the 9v applied to them.

Will do, maybe i can "unstick" my current one for the time being.

Thanks raydar for your help.

Happy to help, if they work for you.

All my injectors look like the one pictured on the left in your hand. #15 Fiero , #17 Camaro stock, #24 "racing", and #30 aftermarket (installed and not pictured).

Odd, I never know the Fiero 2.8 used different injectors which is why I didn't specify the type in my want ad. Now I know. Let's hope we get this problem solved.

Well, I swapped the injector i got from another member plugged the fuel rail in and left it out of the intake manifold and primed the car and all was good, then I turned the car over with the fuel rail still out and all injectors fired correctly. Put everything back together, fired the car up, it ran for a few seconds and shut off. Fired back up and shut off again. I listened to the fuel rail closely and it sounds like I have another injector firing on prime. I unplugged them and primed them and it definately stuck open. So once raydars injectors get here, I will redo my whole process. I can't win for losing. I hate to buy injectors since I am gonna start my 3.4 build once I can drive the car.

J/K... Good luck.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 12-13-2011).]

You guys have got to be tired of popcorn or 400lbs overweight by now. Haha. Well I pulled everything back out, and the noise I heard was not a stuck open injector. It was just a noise coming from the FPR. So after I get another tube of sealant for the thermostat housing and another gasket for it, and everything back together we will see what happens. But if an injector wasn't spraying why didn't the car continue running last night?

[This message has been edited by 86FIFI (edited 12-13-2011).]

Good Question. And why is the Fuel Pump Relay making so much noise?

Shoulda spelled it out. By FPR I meant fuel pressure regulator.

OMG!

Huh????

Just an attempt at acronym humor... nmd.

I dont need humor, I need a miracle! Haha.

I don't remember, did you have a backup chip for your ECM? I am wondering if maybe something is going wrong with the Sinister one.

Wait a minute... FPR making noise?!

Do you have a hand operated vacuum pump?
If so, pull a vacuum on the FPR. It should maintain that vacuum until you let it off.
(You could try sucking on the vacuum hose, but if it's leaking, you might get a mouthful of gas. So don't.)

The point is... if the FPR (or the MAP sensor, for that matter) is not holding a vacuum, it's not regulating. You're getting full fuel pressure at idle.
That could explain your situation.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 12-13-2011).]

I don't have a vacuum pump, but I did suck on the FPR and then did the same to another one that is on a fuel rail off the car, and got the same result, nothing. I just know when the car priming, you can hear fuel flowing in the fuel rail, and it sounds like it is coming from under the FPR.

Ah. Okay. That makes sense.
Wouldn't think it would be empty enough to hear it fill, however.

Well I pour all gas out the rail when I remove it, but once it pressurizes it doesn't go away. Just sounds like liquid flowing.

The Fuel Pressure Regulator lets excess fuel pressure return back to the tank via the return line. There should always be fuel flowing back to the tank when the pump is running.

Are your injectors firing or are you only running on your cold start injector?

Check the voltage on the pink wires of your injectors during cranking. Then check the voltage on the blue or green wire during cranking. If there is a 4v difference then the ECM is firing the injectors. If not the ECM isn't firing the injectors.

If the pink is missing the 12v then your INJ1 or INJ2 fuse is bad.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 12-14-2011).]

I have no cold start injector. And I verified my injectors are firing by pulling the fuel rail out and watching.them while someone turned the car over. I have 12v at the mentioned pins, and I have a voltage drop during cranking. The fuel rail had 37psi 24 hours after its last prime.

So why do you think the engine runs for only a second?

Will it run longer on starting fluid - with repeated sprays into the intake as it runs?

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 12-14-2011).]

I posted a video with the new injector installed I started the car and it ran a little, and shut off and started back up and ran a few seconds and shut off. That's when I thought what I was hearing was a stuck open injector. So I pulled it apart to find out it wasn't a stuck open injector.

Yes I had seen it.

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: I posted a video with the new injector installed I started the car and it ran a little, and shut off and started back up and ran a few seconds and shut off. That's when I thought what I was hearing was a stuck open injector. So I pulled it apart to find out it wasn't a stuck open injector.

Are you using any throttle once it starts to keep it running?

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 12-14-2011).]

It OS at WOT to keep it running.

So does it start on WOT? If so you have a problem with the fuel being injected still. At WOT the ECM shuts off the injectors.

Any chance you still have a ground on either of the injector wires? Pull apart the injector to engine harness and check with your ohm meter what the resistance if each of the leads is to ground.

If one of those was permantly grounded, that may have caused the injector to fail open. Start with that lead.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 12-14-2011).]

As of last night my injectors are fine and all spray during cranking in pulses and they hold pressure great.

Is the vacuum line to your MAP connector connected? If the MAP isn't seeing intake vacuum, the ECM will think the throttle is wide open and will be injecting the maximum amount of fuel into the manifold.

The TPS is only used to determine if the throttle is fully closed, or open enough to change the ECM to run on fuel enrichment mode, or if you have the throttle wide open during starting to run on flood clear mode.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 12-14-2011).]

Everything is hooked up correctly. Or it was. And in the past, it only starts when oil is poured in the cylinders.

You should not have to be putting any more oil in the cylinders since you have your leaking injector fixed.

Electrically unplug your MAP. Re check your timing.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 12-14-2011).]

Just odd that it seems to have only been starting when the oil was poured in.

Yes it does seem odd. But the oil in the cylinders isn't being washed away any more.

I have only used that for engines that have sat a long time and then I have only done it usually once or at most like 3 times to get the engine to run.

If there is any residual fuel in the oil in decent amounts wouldnt that continue to wash down the walls?

Here was my result tonight.
http://static.photobucket.c...142008/VIDEO0029.mp4

Here is the sound I am talking about. It's the noise at the very beginning of the video while the car is priming. The end noise is the IAC.
http://static.photobucket.c...142008/VIDEO0030.mp4

We're missing something...

I hope so. Just tell me what it is. Lol. Oh yea forgot to mention my oil was so thin that it dripped off the stick. So I will change my oil this weekend and we will see what happens then.

quote Originally posted by Raydar: We're missing something...

I would go back through all the vacuum lines and check everything. I had one little mis-fit under the MAP on mine and it sounded like that til I found it.