Well i just looked on the Oreilly's website, and it says 13/16 for 4 speed manual transmission, the people there are just idiots after i clearly said 4-speed. Here is the link just so you can make sure. I called earlier, and its $23.99
The 103482 is a 13/16" bore and was used on the Izusu and 4 speeds
the Getrag uses a 15/16" bore
an 11/16" bore wasn't used on the Fieros.
4 speeds were used on 85 and early 86 2.8 V6's The 5 speed Getrag was used on later 86 and all 87-88 Fieros with the 2.8. The Getrag's larger bore slave means you would end up with less travel if mis-installed on a 4 speed
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 09-03-2010).]
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10:42 AM
86FIFI Member
Posts: 749 From: Statesboro, GA Registered: Aug 2010
The 103482 is a 13/16" bore and was used on the Izusu and 4 speeds
the Getrag uses a 15/16" bore
an 11/16" bore wasn't used on the Fieros.
4 speeds were used on 85 and early 86 2.8 V6's The 5 speed Getrag was used on later 86 and all 87-88 Fieros with the 2.8. The Getrag's larger bore slave means you would end up with less travel if mis-installed on a 4 speed
Well I had the 11/16 on there and was getting about 3/4 to an inch of travel, but I got the fuel pump and 13/16 slave this morning so I should be fine.
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12:10 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17091 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Well with the same amount of hydrulic fluid displacement into a bigger bore you will get a smaller stroke. So idk if this is going in the right direction then. I do know that you have the factory sized bore slave now for the 4 speed however.
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05:57 PM
fierofool Member
Posts: 12929 From: Auburn, Georgia USA Registered: Jan 2002
The one at the top with the 11/16 bore in 86FiFi's link looks just like this one in Rodney's catalog. Rodney's doesn't list the bore but they do look the same. I think they originally gave him one for the 86 Getrag. I forget which one, but I think it's AutoZone that doesn't even list an 86 4-speed Fiero.
Oh, I agree with you on the physical appearance. The shorter one does look like it would have a larger bore. It may be that someone is providing the wrong specs on their product. I'm having problems with my computer but I'll see if I can find some specs in my files. I'm curious.
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09:36 PM
PFF
System Bot
86FIFI Member
Posts: 749 From: Statesboro, GA Registered: Aug 2010
Well, I put the 13/16 in today, and it is exactly the same lenght as the one I pulled out the car, and I had the studs built into it like the one out the car. To look at, the bore looked thinner on the new one, but when I held them end to end they matched up perfectly, so when 300zxmaster has time to come back over we will bleed it. We got the fuel pump put in and into the tank today, but I am going to replace a couple hoses just cause they looked bad, and we took the pulsator off the pump too for more gas flow. How much gas should be in the tank for the original "prime" and first start up attempt since I have had FIFI. It wont necessarily be soon, but I would like to make sure she runs though.
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09:42 PM
86FIFI Member
Posts: 749 From: Statesboro, GA Registered: Aug 2010
Maybe my eyes are going bad. Smaller sized diameter? Bore refers to the size of the circle represented by the top of the piston, measured in diameter. Stroke refers to how long the piston travels down the bore.
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10:58 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17091 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Maybe my eyes are going bad. Smaller sized diameter? Bore refers to the size of the circle represented by the top of the piston, measured in diameter. Stroke refers to how long the piston travels down the bore.
Yea, the bore on the stock one was larger than the 11/16 and the stroke of the 11/16 was longer, but the 13/16 when held end to end with the stock one lines up directly with the bore and both have the same stroke. If you were to look at them though it looks like the stock one has a larger bore, but its just a thicker metal than the one I recently purchased.
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11:06 PM
86FIFI Member
Posts: 749 From: Statesboro, GA Registered: Aug 2010
Great, I have 2 gallons of 93 Octane in the shed. and i will mix some mystery oil (I believe is what it was) I know the bottle says to put half in the gas, and half in the oil, but after sitting a while I want to make sure everything gets cleaned out.
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11:07 PM
Sep 4th, 2010
the300zxmaster Member
Posts: 66 From: Statesboro, ga Registered: Aug 2010
At Disneyland the lines are designed that you can't see how long the line really is untill you get to the next bend, and once you get there that's when you see how long the line is in front of you.
Expect to find NEW things that you will need to deal with once you get the engine to crank, new things once you get it driving ect. Hopefully not big things. Plan for the worst, hope for the best, and what you should experence something in between.
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04:33 AM
86FIFI Member
Posts: 749 From: Statesboro, GA Registered: Aug 2010
At Disneyland the lines are designed that you can't see how long the line really is untill you get to the next bend, and once you get there that's when you see how long the line is in front of you.
Expect to find NEW things that you will need to deal with once you get the engine to crank, new things once you get it driving ect. Hopefully not big things. Plan for the worst, hope for the best, and what you should experence something in between.
Well I kind of figured that, but once it is running we can verify the next problem. This is just the first step into seeing what is wrong with it.
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11:27 AM
fierofool Member
Posts: 12929 From: Auburn, Georgia USA Registered: Jan 2002
I did some checking in the Pontiac P22 Parts Listing. There are 4 slave cylinders for the Fiero.
84--#10026326 85--#10035044 for both the M17 and MT2 transmissions. That would be for the Muncie 4 speed and the Isuzu 5 speed. 86--#10035004 for the MT2 and M17 transmissions. Again, for the Muncie 4 speed and the Isuzu 5 speed 87/88--#10038875 for the Getrag 5 speed.
As with many of the auto parts stores, they don't show the Getrag slave for the 86.
Since the Getrag slave is shorter and it still has to produce an effective travel of about 1 1/4 inch, it would make sense that the bore is smaller than the other slaves. While you can't change the travel on the master cylinder, you can reduce it's bore to provide the proper amount of fluid. I believe the Getrag equipped Fieros had a different clutch master cylinder than did the cars equipped with Muncie or Isuzu transmissions.
We've gotten way off 86FiFi's topic. I'll leave the last word to you. Thanks for the discussion.
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01:09 PM
PFF
System Bot
86FIFI Member
Posts: 749 From: Statesboro, GA Registered: Aug 2010
I did some checking in the Pontiac P22 Parts Listing. There are 4 slave cylinders for the Fiero.
84--#10026326 85--#10035044 for both the M17 and MT2 transmissions. That would be for the Muncie 4 speed and the Isuzu 5 speed. 86--#10035004 for the MT2 and M17 transmissions. Again, for the Muncie 4 speed and the Isuzu 5 speed 87/88--#10038875 for the Getrag 5 speed.
As with many of the auto parts stores, they don't show the Getrag slave for the 86.
Since the Getrag slave is shorter and it still has to produce an effective travel of about 1 1/4 inch, it would make sense that the bore is smaller than the other slaves. While you can't change the travel on the master cylinder, you can reduce it's bore to provide the proper amount of fluid. I believe the Getrag equipped Fieros had a different clutch master cylinder than did the cars equipped with Muncie or Isuzu transmissions.
We've gotten way off 86FiFi's topic. I'll leave the last word to you. Thanks for the discussion.
Well I believe the one I have is the right one, but i appreciate all the help from you guys!! As soon as I have been on here long enough I will submit a positive rating for you both. I wont have time to work on FIFI today, but tomorrow I will try and clean the calipers up and put the gas tank back in on Monday. I would like to get her runnning, so we can start talking performance. How will I know if I have a Muncie, Getrag, or Isuzu trranny? All I know is I have a 4 speed. TIA
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01:27 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17091 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
I did some checking in the Pontiac P22 Parts Listing. There are 4 slave cylinders for the Fiero.
84--#10026326 85--#10035044 for both the M17 and MT2 transmissions. That would be for the Muncie 4 speed and the Isuzu 5 speed. 86--#10035004 for the MT2 and M17 transmissions. Again, for the Muncie 4 speed and the Isuzu 5 speed 87/88--#10038875 for the Getrag 5 speed.
As with many of the auto parts stores, they don't show the Getrag slave for the 86.
Since the Getrag slave is shorter and it still has to produce an effective travel of about 1 1/4 inch, it would make sense that the bore is smaller than the other slaves. While you can't change the travel on the master cylinder, you can reduce it's bore to provide the proper amount of fluid. I believe the Getrag equipped Fieros had a different clutch master cylinder than did the cars equipped with Muncie or Isuzu transmissions.
We've gotten way off 86FiFi's topic. I'll leave the last word to you. Thanks for the discussion.
ALL Fiero cluch master cylinders have an 11/16 bore no matter which tranny was used.
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02:32 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17091 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Well I believe the one I have is the right one, but i appreciate all the help from you guys!! As soon as I have been on here long enough I will submit a positive rating for you both. I wont have time to work on FIFI today, but tomorrow I will try and clean the calipers up and put the gas tank back in on Monday. I would like to get her runnning, so we can start talking performance. How will I know if I have a Muncie, Getrag, or Isuzu trranny? All I know is I have a 4 speed. TIA
The Getrag was made by Muncie so its a little confusing but ALL 4 speeds are usually referred as Muncies since they were built by them.
All Isuzu's are 5 speeds and were only used on 4 cylinders. Getrag's were only used on V6's. 4 speeds were used on both 4's and 6's.
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02:35 PM
86FIFI Member
Posts: 749 From: Statesboro, GA Registered: Aug 2010
Well today was a good day in FiFi's life. We installed the gas tank and replaced the fuel filter and changed the oil and she started up. 300zxmaster will post a vid of her running later as I took one with my phone and it was too large to send. There is still a problem of the clutch engaging, and the parking brake is stuck on. I have new brake lines to replace the others, so the parking brake shouldnt be a problem, but i am still puzzled about the clutch. Also what are some alternatives to the intake, my stock air bow was rusted all to hell, and i do not want to use it anymore. and an open filter will not do in its place because it would get wet. And i have the Fiero side scoop and I would still like to use it, but I would like to get more out of it than stock. TIA Matt
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11:04 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17091 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
A problem with the clutch engaging or a problem with the clutch not disengaging?
Keep the stock air filter - get one from some on the MALL section
Don't drop the Manifold Air Temp sensor (the one that is actually on the air intake can) The engine will run like poop without it.
Yea the car actually wouldnt start until i put the rusted box back in there. i was gonna use the sensor, didnt know if they made a different after market one. and the clutch thing. Well i push the clutch in, and it is hard to put the car in gear. When I push in the clutch, it squeaks, almost like a squeaky belt.
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11:33 PM
Sep 8th, 2010
the300zxmaster Member
Posts: 66 From: Statesboro, ga Registered: Aug 2010
A problem with the clutch engaging or a problem with the clutch not disengaging?
Keep the stock air filter - get one from some on the MALL section
Don't drop the Manifold Air Temp sensor (the one that is actually on the air intake can) The engine will run like poop without it.
We are placing the air temperature sensor in a bung on a custom piping set up. The pcv system will also have a connection.
I dont think we are bleeding it completely yet because the pedal is still very soft and only getting about 1/4 inch of travel. Either there is still air in the system or the seals on the clutch master cylinder are shot.
Yea the car actually wouldnt start until i put the rusted box back in there. i was gonna use the sensor, didnt know if they made a different after market one. and the clutch thing. Well i push the clutch in, and it is hard to put the car in gear. When I push in the clutch, it squeaks, almost like a squeaky belt.
The pivot of the pedal squeeks or the clutch squeaks with the rotation of the engine when your foot is resting or pushing on the pedal?
Pivot squeak = normal Rotational squeak = bad throw out bearing.
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12:29 AM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17091 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
If you can shift ok with the engine off, but can't with the engine running that means you're not getting a full release of the clutch.
You need 1" to 1 1/16" travel of the slave for full release. Take a piece of wood and jam it between the pushrod of the slave and the swingarm of the clutch. This will make the slave cylinder have as small of an area as possible so it doesn't tend to hold the bubbles. Of course take the wood out before you try to push the pedal to use the clutch.
It's a bltch to get it bled Try using the gravity method. Make sure the master is above the slave. Open the bleeder and let the fluid flow (with block in place) Make sure you don't run out of fluid in the master. Tap on the slave a bit with a screwdriver to dislodge any bubbles. Sometimes taking the bleeder all the way out and having someone push a bit to get the last air out works also. Put the bleeder back in and tightened before the assistant takes his foot off of the pedal.
[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 09-08-2010).]
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12:35 AM
the300zxmaster Member
Posts: 66 From: Statesboro, ga Registered: Aug 2010
Damn - the easiest way to replace the throw out bearing is to drop the cradle. Just think about it for now. Maybe the noise will go away. Maybe you will find other things you want to correct if/when you drop the cradle.
Dropping the cradle IS the easiest way to do it. Any other way ends up being much more work. As long as it's only making noise for now drive it and see what happens.