I've always used the stock coil and distributor, except my first 85GT had an MSD coil. It was a big 4 x 6 inch unit bolted to the trunk wall next to the cruise control. It worked very well. Can't say if it worked any better than my stock coils, though. But, anytime you get a hotter spark, you improve your performance through improved combustion.

Ok, cool. I like the color match with my Intake manifold, calipers, and soon to be other stuff. So where should I order the clutch kit from? I was thinking about going with a stage 1. Thats what 200+ ft/lbs torque? I shouldnt go too much higher than that if i get there at all.

I found 2 options. The Fiero Store Ram clutch kit is a 9.75 inch disk. $289 http://fierostore.com/Produ...spx?s=54005&d=89&p=1

West Coast Fiero Spec 1 is a 9 11/16 disk, but you must buy the disk and pressure plate separately at an additional $166
http://www.westcoastfiero.com/clutch/clutch.html

No recommendations. I've only driven 1 car that had a Spec clutch, but I don't know what series it was. It was in an 88GT with a 3800SC. It was a little grabby upon starting out.

Yea, I looked at west coast last night, and noticed everything had to be bought seperate. I may go with the Ram kit. Ill keep yall updated on my decision.

Stage 2 or Ram would probably be more suitable and cost effective. Keep in mind that the stock Fiero clutch will take a lot. If you intend to put the car through a lot of abuse, it's more than likely that the car is going to fail before the higher performance clutches.

Also remember that all your motor and transmission mounts and everything in your driveline are old. With a clutch that will grab and hold when you dump the clutch, you're going to be breaking those mounts and maybe other things.

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: .... I could go with a better or "stage 2" disc which would prevent much of the HP loss from the engine to the wheels. ......

Do you realize how foolish this quote sounds?

quote Originally posted by phonedawgz: Do you realize how foolish this quote sounds?

I do not, what is foolish about it?

The horsepower is being lost in the clutch?

Well from what I understood, the HP the engine is producing is transferred through the drive shaft to the wheels, but the stock clutch doesnt engage as quickly as a performance one would so instead of getting the delay, you would get a quicker start, so really what i meant was the HP would be unleashed sooner I guess, I get it now.

Well we started to drop the cradle and to change the kit, (which I still am waiting on you opinion on the link i posted) and realized It is gonna take too much time to do for me, so i called the local transmission shop and got a quote to change it and the output shaft seal too, because it was leaking. they said it would cost me about $550 for labor assuming I buy the kit and seal. Probably a little more if the mounts need to be changed, which they probably do. I started shanging the spark plugs and wires, and got the front 3 easily, but the back three are difficult. There seems to be a shield or something in the way of the socket. The socket wont go around the plug, and its the same socket i changed the front ones with. Stumped??

I've been out all weekend Run(ning) For The Hills, upshifting and downshifting and broadsliding through the mountains around Asheville, NC in my 87GT with the 3.4 engine and Luk clutch and pressure plate. Never a bit of sllippage, except in my tires. The clutch assembly is about 4 or 5 years old and has been through dozens of trips through the twisties.

I checked out the link you posted and I can't comment. I have no personal experience with anything other than stock clutches for the Fiero. Since most clutch assemblies come with some type of warranty, if you have trouble with it, you can always send it back during the warranty period. Just pull it out, pack it up, and ship it back. Then wait for them to determine if there was a problem with workmanship or materials and ship another to you.

Or, you can go down to your local auto parts store, get one over the counter, warranty included, and if you should have a problem with it, swap it out just as quickly. It's difficult for anyone to suggest a good clutch assembly for you unless we know exactly how you intend to drive the car.

Aside from the local auto parts stores, you might try Summit Racing. They have a location here in Georgia, just north of Macon. In the event you couldn't wait for the shipping and return, you could drive up and back in about 5 hours.

Edit to add:

The spark plugs near the passenger compartment are in an area where rain runs off the front of the deck lid and puddles around the plug. If the car's been sitting outside for extended periods, debris can build up around the plugs and the heads can rust. Blow out all debris before removing the plugs. It's the same plug wrench for all 6 plugs. If the garage drops the cradle to replace the clutch, change the plugs at that time. Don't remove the heat shield. It isn't in the way.

You can get a stock clutch kit for + or - $100. Axel seals are cheap. Replace the input shaft seal at the same time.

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 09-19-2010).]

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: I started shanging the spark plugs and wires, and got the front 3 easily, but the back three are difficult. There seems to be a shield or something in the way of the socket. The socket wont go around the plug, and its the same socket i changed the front ones with. Stumped??

Wait till the cradle is out and deal with them then. Much easier to get to them once they are out.

quote Originally posted by fierofool: I checked out the link you posted and I can't comment. I have no personal experience with anything other than stock clutches for the Fiero. Since most clutch assemblies come with some type of warranty, if you have trouble with it, you can always send it back during the warranty period. Just pull it out, pack it up, and ship it back. Then wait for them to determine if there was a problem with workmanship or materials and ship another to you. Or, you can go down to your local auto parts store, get one over the counter, warranty included, and if you should have a problem with it, swap it out just as quickly. It's difficult for anyone to suggest a good clutch assembly for you unless we know exactly how you intend to drive the car. Edit to add: The spark plugs near the passenger compartment are in an area where rain runs off the front of the deck lid and puddles around the plug. If the car's been sitting outside for extended periods, debris can build up around the plugs and the heads can rust. Blow out all debris before removing the plugs. It's the same plug wrench for all 6 plugs. If the garage drops the cradle to replace the clutch, change the plugs at that time. Don't remove the heat shield. It isn't in the way. You can get a stock clutch kit for + or - $100. Axel seals are cheap. Replace the input shaft seal at the same time.

I assumed the link I posted were stock clutch kits. I was planning on going with the very first kit. And with the shop doing the work and it being a transmission shop I am not sure they will let me In there to change the plugs while the cradle is dropped. I will see what I can do. Also, I think I will replace the mounts just in case. As you said if the clutch is grabbing harder I do not want to break anything, and would hate to go and replace the mounts when it could be done very easily when the shop drops the cradle.

When I put in 85 GT, the first one I see at the top looks like it has very little surface area. The first Sachs assembly has a larger surface area and is probably more suitable to a little more agressive driving. It's the one that lists for $126.88. It's probably equal to or a slight upgrade from the stock assembly.

BTW, even though it's a transmission shop, be sure they replace the transmission lubricant with either 5w30 engine oil or Pennzoil Synchromesh (may be called manual transmission oil) or GM Synchromesh oil. The shop that replaced my first clutch refilled the transmission with 80/90 gear oil and I only got 80 miles on it before it came apart.

Ok, thnks for the heads up, I will put some trans oil before I drive it to them because some has leaked out the output shaft seal, but I will make sure they know or I may just bring the syncromesh with you just so I know they dont put anything els in there. is there a dipstick to check the trans fluid level? Well Fierofool, I will probably get the one you mentioned for $126. I realize you get what you pay for, but with being a college kid and now having to pay the shop $550 at the least funds will be tight for the mean time. I will keep you guys informed with what I do. I am going to finish the plugs and put the calipers back on after they are all completely painted, and see what It does on the ground. I replaced all filters, all liquids except the coolant, but i did take the oferflow reservoir out and cleaned it out. Changed the plugs and wires, ignition coil, took intake manifold off and cleaned it out, and replaced parking brake assembly as well as a new fuel pump and slave cylinder. I am beginning to fall in love with this car and I havent even driven it yet.

I put in 85 GT as the vehicle. That would require it to be a 4 speed.
http://www.partstrain.com/s...N=0&Ntt=Clutch%20Kit

If you have the shop drain the fluid from the transmission, it will take 2.5 to 2.75 quarts to refill. You can buy the Pennzoil at AutoZone for about half the price of the GM dealers.

On the 4 speed, the fluid level indicator is on the speedometer output, called a VSS. It's the round cylindrical object with the electric connection on top. Remove the hold down screw and tab, clean all dirt away and you may have to bump it side to side with a rubber mallet to break it loose. Carefully and slowly lift it out. The driven gear is on the bottom and is just slightly smaller than the hole in the transmission. Lifting the VSS quickly can pull the gear off the shaft. Retrieving it from the transmission could possibly require disassembly. The fill marks are on the shaft of the VSS. If you have a Haynes manual, it's shown in the manual transmission section.

Ok, sweet!! Looks good. Cant wait to see how it will perform. Thanks again!

How's the project going? Any updates?

Im glad you asked, and also glad you are interested. Well the other day me and 300zxmaster took your advise and cleaned the debris around the rear plugs, and they looked BAD!! rusted and nasty looking. Well this is what happened...

and on the last one!! So... me and 300zxmaster decided to drop the cradle ourselves and get the other half of that plug out, clean everything real good, paint engine bay, valve covers, intake manifold, and whatever else we see when we get the cradle dropped. Oh yea, and grease everything. And since we are dropping the cradle for that we are going to change the clutchh kit ourselves as well. I got the wiring harrness disconnected, and suspension nuts loose now we have to disconnect A/C lines and coolant lines and she's going down. Wish us luck as this is a first for me. After the engine is back up, I will change pcv valve, sea foam th car throught the PCV hose, make sure i get all the coolant out, and change the coolant, and maybe clr some of the connections that looked kind of dirty on the inside. We are trying to get it dropped Tuesday, and start on the adventure of everything. I got all my brake calipers painted and put back on the car, and new parking brake linse installed. If that last plug would have come out easy i would've taken FIFI for a short first ride.

Cool that you are dropping the cradle. A big easy out, and some heat should take the plug remains out. Check the exhaust manifold bolts while you have the engine out. If you don't see any leaking of the exhaust manifold leave them alone. If you see missing bolts, broken bolts, or signs of leaking. Don't over wrench exhaust manifold bolts without torching them red hot first.

Thanks, I figured I would try an Easy out, and I will be sure to check the exhaust manifold too. I plan on replacing engine mounts as well. Especially since I am changing the clutch assembly.

Rather than using the reverse twist drill type EZ out, see if you can find a set that has the short stub and a hex head that you can put a socket onto. Less chance of breaking it off in the remainder of the plug.

Some tips when replacing your plugs and wires--get yourself a tube of dielectric grease and smear the inside of the plug boot with it before putting the boot on the plug. Also, put the metal heat shields on all the plug boots. If you don't have 6, at least put them on the 3 you had trouble with. Aside from reducing the possibility of the plugs arching due to the water that builds up around the plugs, if you ever need to remove the plug wires in the future, the dielectric will help to prevent the boot from seizing to the plug. The metal heat shield will also allow you to exert pressure on the whole boot in order to twist it loose from the plug. Otherwise, the boot tends to break off even with the top of the plug.

Yea, i put grease on all boots, and have all heat shields still there, and put antisieze on the plugs. I will keep your tip in mind when trying to remove the remainder of the plug. I have to get the cradle dropped first. Weather here is bad all week, but I believe I can stay dry under the shelter, tomorrow i should be ready to drop the cradle. I noticed some of the guys on here drop their cradle a lot, it would be nice to know exactly what to do each time and get something like that done in a couple hours. I guess you live and learn. I am very eager to drive the car, and I hope to get the 3.4 by next summer for a little more power, and easy swap. I also plan on painting the car while it is still warm outside. But that is on down the road. I believe the car has some potential, and tomorrow i will take a pic of the painted calipers installed.

Hurry and get it on the road. The Georgia Fiero Club is discussing a weekend trip down to Savannah in the near future. Hope you can join us.

That would be awesome, and i would love to attend. Yall would put me to shame with the nice cars, but I would be happy just being able to drive the car and attend. If she doesnt run by then, I'll still drive my truck to meet everyone.

That was fun!!!

It was not quite as hard as i had first anticipated. I wish my engine was as easy to pull : /

Putting it in is usually easier. No bolts to be hassled with. Get some very sturdy saw horses and put the cradle up on them.

Port your exhaust manifolds while you have it out!

congrats!

Thanks Josh, and Phonedawgz I was thinking about doing that, but dont really know how well I am at welding. is there an alternate way? Or something I can do that would help, but not be as thorough. And the part I see being a problem when putting it back in, is lining up the cradle bolts.

A long tapered rod/punch is nice to align the parts. Get it close, and push the rod in and the taper aligns the holes. Look at pictures of iron workers assembeling skyscrapers and you will see them using this kind of tool.

The major restriction is where the runner from the exhaust port enters the log of the runner. Just removing the manifold will expose that. The crossover pipe is where the other major restriction is. Cut the pipe with a V so alignment is easy and if you want, have a muffler shop weld the pipes back together.

Ok, I will get them off and take a look at it. I'm ready to get this baby on the road.

Sometimes relieving the exhaust manifolds will weaken them. The front manifold has a tendency to break at the number 6 runner, as it comes from the factory. It would be good to have an automotive machine shop lined up to do a little reinforcement welding on the outside. The manifolds should be bolted down on a set of heads before welding to prevent them from warping. Also, hope you have a Saturn dealer near you. You're likely to have some of the manifold studs break off. Saturn has good replacement studs. I don't know which Saturn they come from, so maybe someone else can provide that info.