So say I go to take the exhaust manifold off and i break a bolt. Why cant I extract it, and just put another one in? Or just go ahead and order a set of studs and do what I have to do to get the others out port it and use the new studs and put it back on.

If you can get them out. Break them off flush or less and you can have a real b**** getting whats left out. Best is to get them to come out without breaking.

There was a post a while back of someone useing stock GM exhaust manifold studs. Not sure what engine they were for. The bolts are standard metric threads.

So could I get a stud out in 1 solid piece, and take it to my local Fastenal which is a nut and bolt place around here and get the same length and thread bolt?

There is a thread on this forum about using the Saturn manifold studs. Do a search using keywords like Saturn, manifold, exhaust, studs, .

quote Originally posted by 86FIFI: So could I get a stud out in 1 solid piece, and take it to my local Fastenal which is a nut and bolt place around here and get the same length and thread bolt?

Oh God be careful about buying from Fastenal. I bought some stainless blots with ny-lock nuts & they froze on the bolts BEFORE they even tightened down!. Had to break them with a pull handle to get them off. Probably made in china. I'll get my bolts from the hardware store from now on.
Sending you a PM...
Later,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Ok, I will keep that in mind when buying the nuts and bolts. Also I will look for the thread about the studs. I ordered the clutch kit today, let's hope everything is correct and I have the get the flywheel resurfaced soon, I am eager to get the car on the road! But want to do everything right while the motor is out.

8mm x 1.25 pitch thread. 25mm long if you go with bolts. 40 if you go with studs.

quote Originally posted by phonedawgz: 8mm x 1.25 pitch thread. 25mm long if you go with bolts. 40 if you go with studs.

Is this for the headers, or the bolts we cut off at the Y-pipe? and thanks for the exact dimensions btw.

Head to Headers.

You can bring the piece of bolt you have left for the Y pipe bolt.

It might be easier to just knock off the welded on nut on the Y pipe and just replace the bolt AND nut. I have a wire feed so I would prob knock the welded nut off and weld a new one on if the bolt was stuck in beyond what a torch would take out. You can also double nut the Y pipe to header bolts to make sure they dont come loose

Yea, I heated them a lot, and got the nut seperated on them. Still haven't bought a welder, but plan too very soon.

Got the heat extraction tubes, some heat shields, and part of the transmission casing painted today, and dropped my flywheel off to be resurfaced. Waiting on the clutch fork to come in, and then reinstalling the engine shall begin.

The poly inserts? Yep that's how I did mine.

Ok, sweet. That's what I'll do then. I also like the fact that they are red.

If your stock dogbone has the rib that runs around the outside, it will be a pretty easy job. Once you get the old rubber out, the new Fiero Store poly bushings can be pressed in with your hands. If your dogbone is smooth on the outside---well, have fun.

I believe mine is ribbed so I should be okay. I am about to post a couple pics of what I have and what i have done.

We lookin good

Tomorrow we do work!

I hope that is the right clutch fork..... I could have sworn the one that's broken is splined around the whole shaft.

Dont you jinx us now!!

Well we hit a road block today, as well as made some progress. And muratic acid is my new best friend for fighting rust. We got the exhaust manifolds off, and reinforced the flange on the outside.

We had a hard time with the clutch fork bushing, and I will definately need a new one before I install the new fork. We finally got the fork out, removed some more paint from the plenum, got a couple more heat shields painted, going to order the clutch fork bushing, exhaust manifold gaskets, studs, dog bone bushings, and i believe something else but cant remember what, but I will order it tonight. And hope to have the clutch stuff done by next wednesday,

One problem with the acid - It 'hardens' the surface by removing free electrons. This extra hardening can lead to stress cracking in the future. One way to keep it from happening is to use the acid as little as possible. That is brush off the rust with the wire wheel first and use the acid for final clean up.

Evaluate the parts before you dip them in acid. If they are a high stress part don't dip them. Don't dip springs. Don't dip bolts that hold suspension. Don't dip A-arms or other suspension parts. DO NOT DIP ANY STEERING OR BRAKE PARTS!!.

Brackets can be diped without much problem.

I only used it on heat shields, and the header flanges. I laughed out loud at ur quote. The road block was the clutch fork bushing took. Forever to get out, and now I have to wait for it to come in to move forward. At leeast after doing all this I know everything is done right and should have a pretty reliable can engine and transmission wise.

Will this fork bushing work on 4 speed>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> http://fierostore.com/Produ...ail.aspx?s=54034&p=2

[This message has been edited by the300zxmaster (edited 10-13-2010).]

When the gas exits the cylinder head it is at it's hottest. As the gas cools, the volume of gasses decrease. Porting the exhaust manifolds will make a much larger difference than anything past the cat. The second biggest thing you can do for the exhaust is to port the Y pipe. Beyond that the changes won't make as much of a difference.

Never mind the question i asked we found the correct one, it was listed as a bearing.

Well that makes sense, I just figured the true dual would also give it a meaner sound with a hlittle better air flow. Ill just stick with the stock setup and port the y-pipe to keep it simple, I would like a magnaflow racing muffler but its gonna be hard to find a muffler to match the way the fieros muffler is.

Any intake that pulls its air from inside the engine compartment is breathing thinner, hot air. In the case of the Fiero, the colder the air, the more dense, so you're better to leave the stock setup. If you want to improve the stock breathing, you might want to try a K&N filter. A little pricey on the initial purchase, but over the long term, the recharge kit will save you some money compared to replacing conventional filters. The recharge kit IIRC is about $20 and will do the filter 5 or 6 times.

The description says the filter is inside the fenderwell, meaning you will have to remove something, probably the fender well liner in order to service the filter.

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 10-14-2010).]

quote Originally posted by fierofool: Any intake that pulls its air from inside the engine compartment is breathing thinner, hot air. In the case of the Fiero, the colder the air, the more dense, so you're better to leave the stock setup. If you want to improve the stock breathing, you might want to try a K&N filter. A little pricey on the initial purchase, but over the long term, the recharge kit will save you some money compared to replacing conventional filters. The recharge kit IIRC is about $20 and will do the filter 5 or 6 times. The description says the filter is inside the fenderwell, meaning you will have to remove something, probably the fender well liner in order to service the filter.

I will have to find the links but it looked as if you remove the tube that elbows up into the stock air canister and it provides just enough room for the filter to go into the opening created by removing that piece and it is then fed by the side duct contraption. I imagine a light shroud could be fabricated to close off any small opening from the fender well to engine bay.

Got the clutch disc and flywheel installed today. Got all the openings on the exhaust manifold grinded, just have to smooth it a lil more, and do the piece on the inside. The grinding stones that came with the air tool were brittle and I went through about 5 of them.

Yeah as a general rule, the harder a thing is the more brittle it is. Bend a good knife blade and it snaps. Do the same with soft steel and it bends. Take your time grinding, make sure you wear eye protection and don't worry too much if you use up a few grinding stones.

Ok, thanks for the heads up. Well I was looking at the engine balance sheet from when the PO installed the remanufactured engine, and come to find out my engine is bored .40 over.

On a seperate note, I need some extra tips on porting the y pipe. I don't exactly understand what and where to cut and dremel. I couldn't find a step by step thread.

Will the 87 GT rims fit on my 86 SE? And are they any lighter than my rims? I think I can work out a trade with a guy for his GT rims but before I ge them I want to make sure they fit.

The flaps looking into the main chamber from the exhaust port? Yes, that is the prime place to do porting.