did you ever get a better idea of what all you've got there?

If it is a true SD (super duty) setup i might be interested in the near future.

Nothing new as of now, but I should be getting around to looking at it wednesday (tomorrow), and I should have answers for you by the weekend.

looks like a 522 head with air ports plugged? I have ordered 522 with out air ports for my duke build. Thanks to KurtAKX suggestion.

http://www.machineworldny.c...aspx?pid=1674&type=A

http://www.machineworldny.c...aspx?pid=1675&type=A

I have a 1984 fiero se with 2.5L auto it has the holley c.a.r.b. executive order #d115-4 TBI model number 3739 on it with the air intake on the drivers side. What is this doing for me on this car?

quote Originally posted by DNLDMKR: I have a 1984 fiero se with 2.5L auto it has the holley c.a.r.b. executive order #d115-4 TBI model number 3739 on it with the air intake on the drivers side. What is this doing for me on this car?

not much. If you believe that cylinder head flow numbers have a definite correlation to horsepower, then the stock 84 head can't make more than about 115-120 hp under the best of circumstances.

well, that takes the work out of it for me, its a 522 head with plugs in the air-ports.
and I am sure my duke isnt SD now, I couldnt find any sd markings on the block (SD markings are obvious)

what were the extra "air-ports" for?

Also, are there different gaskets that have to be used for the intake-to-head?

[This message has been edited by AL87 (edited 10-29-2010).]

http://www.bgsoflex.com/flowcalc1.html

i get 135hp@4528rpm with 130cfm at 28inches of water

I've been reading up on rocker arms. I found an article where they measured the actual ratio of different rocker arms. It was found that common stamped rocker arms don't deliver their stated ratio throughout the entire arc of their motion, but only peak at the stated ratio at one point in the arc. The average ratio falls well below the stated ratio.
Roller rockers, however, do deliver the stated ratio throughout the entire arc. So, just replacing stamped rockers with roller rockers of the same ratio will boost torque and horsepower. I wonder how much gain the rollers on that duke produce?

quote Originally posted by baldlobo: http://www.bgsoflex.com/flowcalc1.html i get 135hp@4528rpm with 130cfm at 28inches of water

that's an awfully optimistic calculator.

[This message has been edited by KurtAKX (edited 10-28-2010).]

quote Originally posted by KurtAKX: that's an awfully optimistic calculator.

Way to optimistic!

quote Originally posted by TopNotch: I've been reading up on rocker arms. I found an article where they measured the actual ratio of different rocker arms. It was found that common stamped rocker arms don't deliver their stated ratio throughout the entire arc of their motion, but only peak at the stated ratio at one point in the arc. The average ratio falls well below the stated ratio. Roller rockers, however, do deliver the stated ratio throughout the entire arc. So, just replacing stamped rockers with roller rockers of the same ratio will boost torque and horsepower. I wonder how much gain the rollers on that duke produce?

The lift that a rocker outputs given cam lift depends ONLY on the geometry of the pushrod location, center pivot, and valve location. Adding a needle bearing instead of a spherical bearing does nothing special. For a fixed pushrod length, if you want a flatter lift curve you MUST use a rocker with a longer distance between the center pivot and the valve contact. Then if you want to keep the old ratio that you had you MUST increase the distance between the center pivot and the pushrod cup. You don't move the valves when you put in roller rockers. In fact, the lift could vary MORE depending on if the rockers are made for the application and if the pushrod height is setup correctly.

Excluding a rocker that has some kind of fancy ramping tip profile, lift at the valve will always vary as a trigonometric function of rocker angle. Not to say that roller rockers are worthless, just that rockers should be set up correctly and used in an application for which they were orginally designed for.

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My Web page | The Turbo Super Duty Build.
You know that little voice that says it can't be done? I duct-taped its mouth shut and pushed it down a flight of stairs. (Leader of the Insurgency)

In the article, they measured the movement of the pushrod and the movement of the valve at different points during the rise and fall of the valve. For example, if at the point the pushrod had moved .1 inch, the valve had moved .15 inch, that would be a 1.5 ratio at that point. The roller rockers and high end stamped rockers performed consistently better than stock rockers. These were all rockers with the same stated ratio for the same engine (a small block chevy).
BTW, the "high end" stamped rockers are for racing classes in which the engine must be "stock", so it can't have roller rockers if it didn't come with them.

OK!!! well I found the original thread, I wish I coulda just found it earlier and left the forum in a less cluttered mess...

I got the brake job almost done, (in need of the right hand side emergency brake cable $25 from Fiero Store)
I got the fuel system problems sorted out, (in need of the fuel line and submersible fuel hose)

I stripped the entire front end to the chassis to take care of and prevent any rust.
Took care of 6 yellow jacket nests that were made since the car had been sitting at my place.
I installed 4 2-way speakers from Pyle Audio along with a JVC 200 watt head unit.
Fixed the hack-job done to the battery tray from the P.O.
Went through the external lighting systems and made sure the contacts were... in contact.
Duck taped the seat cloth to keep it in "one piece", then put seat covers on.

The last things to do before the test drive are to
wire up the gen1 headlights I got from the junkyard.
Make sure the engine has the necessary fluids.
Check for leaks in the engine compartment.
Check the Gauge pod, and replace half the lights that arent working.

Then a test drive for
the tires (they are new but have been sitting)
Clutch master cylinder (shifting)
Brakes (so I stop)

After its all good and done, I'll be waiting for Fiero Fiberglass to finish reproducing the IMSA stage 1 aero rockers and front chin spoiler I donated. then I'm installing those puppies!
I also have to wire in add-on accessory foglights that the po had on the chin spoiler
And install a new boost/vacum gauge the po also had previously installed

then paint... I'm thinking "confederate grey" (flat) with a gloss black trim, gloss black wheels
And then installing my dead 88's grey interior.

I GOT IT RUNNING!!! =D