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Brake line banjo bolts and copper washers to caliper, seating tips? by fierohoho
Started on: 01-28-2011 11:03 AM
Replies: 6
Last post by: uhlanstan on 01-28-2011 06:39 PM
fierohoho
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Report this Post01-28-2011 11:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierohohoSend a Private Message to fierohohoDirect Link to This Post
I'm putting on new brake lines and doing a 4 wheel Grand Am brake upgrade and when it comes to bolting the brake line to the caliper what's the best way to do it to avois leaks? The copper washers and brake lines are new.

Thanks

Steve

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Kevin87FieroGT
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Report this Post01-28-2011 11:30 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Kevin87FieroGTSend a Private Message to Kevin87FieroGTDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for asking the question. I just got my braided lines in and plan the install this weekend. Not planning on changing the calipers though, just the lines.

Looking froward to the replies.
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Pyrthian
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Report this Post01-28-2011 11:34 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PyrthianSend a Private Message to PyrthianDirect Link to This Post
only thing I can say is: make sure the mating surfaces are as clean & smooth as possible

oh - and dont over torque

tho, I am curious if heat is a good addition, to soften the copper?
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jaskispyder
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Report this Post01-28-2011 11:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderDirect Link to This Post
Yup, make sure the surface is clean/smooth, unless you have new calipers with the grooves still in place. Rebuilt will be sand blasted and the surface will be pitted, making for a bad seal. I also tap on the bolt lightly when doing the final tightening. I think this helps to seat the copper washer.... at least I seem to have good luck that way.
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sspeedstreet
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Report this Post01-28-2011 01:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sspeedstreetSend a Private Message to sspeedstreetDirect Link to This Post
I recently replaced a rear caliper on my 1988. At anything less than the 33 lb-ft it calls for, it will leak. It's scary putting that much torque on aluminum threads, tho. I like the bolt-hammer tap idea.

Neil
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Dizzixx
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Report this Post01-28-2011 05:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DizzixxSend a Private Message to DizzixxDirect Link to This Post
I just always use new washers and clean the surfaces as best I can. Torque to spec. I have never had a problem. If you got rebuilt calipers they are more likely to leak there than at the banjo. Rebuilding them yourself is the only way in my opinion.
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uhlanstan
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Report this Post01-28-2011 06:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for uhlanstanSend a Private Message to uhlanstanDirect Link to This Post
The factory washers are long life ,the ones with the raised circular rings, these are smash down ,,of course they have been compressed but I have had better luck with them than the new smooth ones .

Pitted banjo bolt thread hole area can be sanded using a known flat surface with sand paper under it,place cloth in hole with grease over it
a pitted hole area can be skimmed with JB weld ...

do not tap hammer on aluminum caliper bolts,unless trying to loosen

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 01-28-2011).]

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