Is there another place I can mount the coolant temperature sensor on the head or maybe Y it off the coolant sensor on the thermostat neck, because the original is broken off even in the head. The only way to tap it out would be to remove the engine and I'm not into that just for this one sensor. Suggestions would be great. I'll post a pic in te morning.
Here is the interior after I cleaned the carpet (the best I could). It's starting to look a little better. It's definately not perfect but I would have to replace a lot of the console to make it perfect again. Right now I am more worried about performance and estetics of the outside.
The Trunk where the plug goes to. I know where it plugs to the car, but when I pulled the trunk off it was connected and the wire follows through the trunk to the latch of the trunk. It is a Sport Fiero so there is no electronic latch or anything. The ONLY thing I can imagine is that it is to turn on a dummy light in case the trunk is ajar.
Found this "Rats Nest" behind the rear tail lights when I removed them. I was slightly scared of what I might fnd or what might bite me
I need to figure out if I should just cap this off OR find out what it actually went to at one time.
And now for the interesting picture. The pic below is the Coolant Temperature sensor that turns on the coolant fan up from. I had been searching for this things location for days now and finally felt around and found it beside the #4 plug location. Of course I couldn't see it with my eyes but fortunately I have a wonderful camera phone to see where most people cannot.
Now my question from the YouTube vodeo is simply can I relocate this CTS somewhere else in the system. Can I "Y" it off the front sensor on the Thermostat tube to get a proper temperture to turn on the fan or is there some other way? As you can see, tapping and EZ outing that plug will be impossible without pulling the motor. I would rather the sensor be connected properly but I suppose if I can't slightly modify the sensor to work properly I will be installing a after market temperture sensor and a toggle switch somewhere which I would hate and it would bother me every time I saw it cause it wouldn't look like factory. :-)
------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, bought for electric conversion. Currently just fixing all the old stuff
[This message has been edited by jwrape (edited 04-21-2011).]
Just did a compression test #1 - 115 #2 - 105 ish #3 - 120 #4 - 120
So it seems I'm jus barely ok with #2 but great on the rest.
Ya know, I'm thinking I could get better numbers with a new battery. I got these with jumper cables from my Infiniti idling. I'll try it later as well when I get a new battery in it and also have the battery connections on correct.
------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, bought for electric conversion. Currently just fixing all the old stuff
Oh, also last night I unplugged the Fuel filter from the TB and turned on the ignition to see if I had gas or any operation of fuel transfer and I got zero, zilch, nada. Bone dry. So I'm glad I ordered the fuel pump. I now figure the reason it was parked was because of the fuel pump.
"The previous owner said it was running funny and then a Shade tree mechanic worked on it and it never ran again."
Now I see why it was running funny. The fuel pump was giving out.
I actually don't know if there is gas in the tank or not cause ever since I got the engine to turn over the gas gauge has been pegged. BUT when I first got the car it red half a tank, so I figure it has half a tank.
------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, bought for electric conversion. Currently just fixing all the old stuff
[This message has been edited by jwrape (edited 04-21-2011).]
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07:23 AM
fcsmls Member
Posts: 134 From: Selkirk, ON, Canada Registered: Apr 2009
You need to drain that tank and make sure there's no souvenirs left over. Best to do when you do the fuel pump replacement. You don't want to gum up your new pump with that old junk. Also make sure you put on a new fuel line filter.
[This message has been edited by fcsmls (edited 04-21-2011).]
You need to drain that tank and make sure there's no souvenirs left over. Best to do when you do the fuel pump replacement. You don't want to gum up your new pump with that old junk. lso make sure you put on a new fuel line filter.
Yea, I have all those parts coming in the mail. I need to buy two more jack stands and I will be dropping the tank to clean it out. It prolly really needs it from sitting since 06'
------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, bought for electric conversion. Currently just fixing all the old stuff
Yesterday I found the steal of the build. I got wheels and tires for the Fiero for $300 for all four. I found them on Craiglist, way out in Winterville, past Athens, GA. They are Momo wheels. Never liked Momo's before but these are nice and they are 18x8 with a 38 offset. I got them home and lined them up and double checked the lug pattern to be 5x100 and the bore to be 56.1.... The wheels fit perfectly.
Then after laying the felt on my pool table I went out the shop for a wrench to put on the sides and had to throw on the back wheel to see what it will look like. The offset is ALMOST flush with the top of the fender. I'm still not sure if I want to add another 10mm spacer since the front end will be another 9mm wider after the Beretta Brake Upgrade. I will test with the generic spacers I have and if I like it I will buy a set of hubcentric spacers to run on it.
------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, bought for electric conversion. Currently just fixing all the old stuff
You see the door is closing high. When i got the car the top of the door was cracked from hitting the bottom of the sail panel. How do you get that adjusted? I know that might sound like a ignorant question, but I have loosened the top hinge and even sat on the door so it might let loose and come down a little but it didn't budge and I even saw the top hinge was very loose after I loosened the bolts, so it's not glued or anything. Just wouldn't move down. I have no clue how the door got pushed up to begin with. I don't see any signs of damage repair. The lower hinge is bolted from the inside. Didn't see how to get to those bolts.
------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, bought for electric conversion. Currently just fixing all the old stuff
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08:07 AM
PFF
System Bot
donnie072003 Member
Posts: 1956 From: LaSalle, IL. Registered: Feb 2010
You have the exact opposite problem I have. Mine is a tad low and I can't get it to come up any more. I do remember that I took the front fender loose to make adjustments. Seems like I had to take the kick panel off on the drivers side to get at the lower hinge. Can't remember for sure. Car is looking better on every post by the way. I like the new wheels and you got them a whole lot cheaper than I did.
You have the exact opposite problem I have. Mine is a tad low and I can't get it to come up any more. I do remember that I took the front fender loose to make adjustments. Seems like I had to take the kick panel off on the drivers side to get at the lower hinge. Can't remember for sure. Car is looking better on every post by the way. I like the new wheels and you got them a whole lot cheaper than I did.
Thanks, I love the progress I've been having with the car. Now I am waiting on parts in the mail to go further. I really want to get the front brakes on so i can roll it outside and pressure wash the entire car. The pollen, leaves and pine straw all over the car is driving me nuts.
------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, bought for electric conversion. Currently just fixing all the old stuff
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08:32 AM
donnie072003 Member
Posts: 1956 From: LaSalle, IL. Registered: Feb 2010
Thanks, I love the progress I've been having with the car. Now I am waiting on parts in the mail to go further. I really want to get the front brakes on so i can roll it outside and pressure wash the entire car. The pollen, leaves and pine straw all over the car is driving me nuts.
Mine was a basket case when I got it too. It takes a long time to get it all cleaned up and starting to look like something. Your off to a good start for sure.
In the last two days I've gotten a lot done. I first had to borrow my Dad's jack stand to get it up off the ground in the rear.
Then a friend and I proceeded to remove the gas tank. WOOO! That was fun, for the main reason of all the Acorns and leaves and dirt falling in our eyes. Oh, and the fuel lines are not easy to get to and get off. But we did and after removing the fuel pump instantly found why the PO said it was running funny. Look at these photo's and the nastiness that had become of the hose.
The hose was a sticky, rubbery mess and litterally was just sitting there only because there was no movement to it in the tank. After I tried to pull it off I got this.
And that stuff got on EVERYTHING on my work bench. Then I wanted to see if the tank was rusty or dirty so I stuck my phone inside and took some pics Just a couple specs of rust that I eventually wiped out
Then I saw this and thought it was funny. It's cracked but when I stuck my hand in to feel it, it's not brittle and wouldn't come off like I would have assumed so I just left it.
Then we dumped the nasty 5 year old gas as we choked on the smell that still reaks throughout the yard even though it's long gone. We rebuilt the pump with the new pump, new Real Clamps and real double resistant fuel line inside. We took apart the float mechanism and lightly cleaned it til it had a shine on the coiled wire and the slider. (afterwards the Fuel Gauge is still pegged at FULL. We had the tank back in with the new fuel pump and the pump works perfectly. We go to start it and figured out that the wires were on totally off from the 1-3-4-2 order they should been in. So after some reading we figured out which wire is #1 and once they were in order the motor fired up.
At first it ran rough and even shot out a hay bale from the tail pipe. Something was living in there at one time
After a little smoking through the PCV valve and a lot of blow by, some smoking out the tail pipe due to oil in the cylinders, it started running smoother and smoother. Eventually it ran like a Honda, Very Smooth.
THEN, all the sudden it started running rough and spiratically making this knocing noise but I could tell it wasn't a ROD because it was very spiratic and wasn't exactly with the rythm of the motor. Then finally we lost a cylinder firing.
I'm like, OH SH**! I think I trashed the motor. (Yes, I admit it, you guys were right, I should have pulled the head but I REALLY didn't want to. I was stubborn)
So the next day I pulled the head off. Here is what I saw.
Here is the #4 cylinder that had a broken plug in it.
Seems to be NO problems with this cylinder at all. Next I looked at #1 and didn't see anything obvious
Then I wiped it out and looked closer and saw this
Dings all over two sides of the cylinder, mainly close the rear window side of the piston and close to the trunk, no marks on the right or left of the piston.
And here is a closer look with it at TDC
So I cleaned and cleaned and cleaned some more. Then I dried it out and blew it out with compressed air. Then I went over to the head hanging from my motor lift and checked it out for damage. Nothing really notable there.
Then I try my hand at removing the Coolant Temp Sensor from the head with a EZ out. That Failed as I figured it would. So now instead of a rusted CTS locked into the head, I also have a EZ broke off in it as well. Getto I know, but I don't know how to get out a EZ out. You can't drill through them. Luckily it sealed the water chamber back up.
So anyways, I got the head back on the car and reassembled it. Hoping and crossing my fingures the whole time that I didn't damage it to much.
I got it all back together and turned it over a few hundred times with it spittin' and spuddering and then it finally cranked and ran PERFECT. It is back to running like a foreign car again. Suprisingly smooth and healthy.
Oh the compression in the #1 cylinder where the piece of porceline was after the new gasket and cleaning went from 115 to 120 psi. So It's getting stronger as it gets used to running again. I would say the Valve seals are feeling healthier as well as the rings. During my work this weekend I was looking for an alternative place for the Coolant Temperature Sensor. There is one un used space behind the Coil in the head that can remove the cap and use a adapter to add the sensor there or there is another unused spot on the intake.
I am wondering if either of these will work for that sensor cause the original place will never work again. :-) Sensor looks like this:
During my head removal there is a small hose from the bottom of the intake to the rear wall of the engine bay. I ripped it apart as I removed the head and just happened to have this new Heater Core Hose from working on my Conquest Tsi that worked even better that the original.
------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, bought for electric conversion. Currently just fixing all the old stuff
[This message has been edited by jwrape (edited 04-29-2011).]
So I got some pics of the cut down hubs. One of them, the machinist was cutting it from the front and a chunk of steel flew off and nearly took off his head. LOL! So he had to weld back on some material and machine it back down. They turned out great. The learning from this is to turn off the disc from the hub from the rear of the hub first so that the weak part of the steal doesn't go flying at your head.
The second one turned out perfect and now he's got it down. I'm gonna have him do another set here soon if I get this 86' GT I'm looking at.
------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, bought for electric conversion. Currently just fixing all the old stuff
Lowered the car two nights ago... I cut a coil and a half off the front and 3/4 coil off the rear. I'm gonna try it that way and see if I like the rear. I might cut another quarter off if I decide I don't like it. I'm still waiting on bearings, seals and Calipers to get it back on the ground.
I finally ordered the finishing touches on the Grand Am brake kit for the Fiero from RockAuto. Got some good deals on the parts compared to Autozone. Got the brake pads for $6 a pair.
Received all my new Gram Am Brake Conversion parts and have everything except Lugs for the front wheels. Looks good so far.
A little detailing makes everything look a little cleaner.
And then a little stand back photo. I have the rear wheel just hand tightened on cause I still have to bleed the brakes before I mount them and set it down on the ground again.
Well over the weekend I got the ol' girl on her feet. I finished the brakes and she started right up and I ran it up and down the road for the first time. It runs perfectly so far. Need to get it aligned and insured and then I can drive it to work and get a feel for it. The only thing is even after cleaning the mechanism in the tank, the gas gauge stays pegged at full. That might be a challenge to drive without a gas gauge. I will have to see what kind of mileage it gets and figure it up by the miles on the odometer.
Haven't done too much to the Sport lately. I did drive it to the gas station and back to fill up the tank with gas. It did good. I need to fix the exhaust pipe where a clamp came loose and then weld it togehter. I don't like 4 bangers without mufflers. It has a muffler, just a loose pipe that makes it sound like a beaten cow going down the road. But I found it runs good and rides much smoother than my G35 Coupe, seriously. My GT is a nice ride too.
I cleaned the trunk carpet that had MANY, MANY stains on it and now looks perfect. Can't even tell there was a stain. I love that plastic carpet.
Also wet sanded the roof to start getting the car ready for paint. I found there are a couple little nicks in the roof I will have to spot puddy, but it's really just the perfectionist in me. Just like my GT, I am picking one project on the car at a time. Right now is wet sanding and getting it ready. It's mostly ready to drive to work, except for an alignment and a Tag (already insured).
------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, and 86 GT
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01:02 PM
marc-alan Member
Posts: 373 From: pottstown, pa usa Registered: Mar 2010
what did you use to clean the rear carpet to get rid of the stains? I have tried lots of things and can't get them all out.
Well, I removed the carpet. Laid it on the driveway and first sprayed it with Resolve, then scrubbed with a med brissle brush, then I pressure washed it with my sprayer. Then still had a couple of grease stains, so I grabbed the Purple Power and sprayed and scrubbed again until I had a thick white lather of bubles and brown water and sprayed it all out again with the pressure washer. After that I sat it ontop of my yard table and chairs to dry in the sun. Looks great now.
With all the the pollen and such, dont forget to pull your defroster fan and clean out the leaves etc fromt hat area so that you dont have a resistor related fire later. Clean or replace important ellectrical conectors they have to be corroeded inside by now and will dirve you nuts with intermitant problems later.
With all the the pollen and such, dont forget to pull your defroster fan and clean out the leaves etc fromt hat area so that you dont have a resistor related fire later. Clean or replace important ellectrical conectors they have to be corroeded inside by now and will dirve you nuts with intermitant problems later.
Oh, I know that's right! I found this hidden behind the tail lights.
Actually I love cleaning it up so ANY dirt I can find I try to wipe it down and clean it out. It sat in a barn for most of it's sitting and then outside for a few months. It's pretty good but has a lot of pollen here and there. I have removed a lot of it but sometime it pops back up, like around the pop up lights. I had forgotten to open then when I was pressure washing the tree junk off the first time.
I tried to bleed off the Clutch slave cylinder last night because I have to pump it up to get it to change. I thought I would be able to bleed off the slave cylinder, but it didn't work. Still have to pump the pedal to get enough clutch to change gears. Makes it almost impossible to drive. I tried it a few different ways and the best way I found was to pump up the pedal and hold it and then vide grip the push rod into full extention and pump it up further and bleed it over and over with the rod fully out, It would get hard but when I went to use it, it had air in it again. PAIN