This thread is for anyone wanting to purchase full roller rocker arms for your 2.8 or 3.4. I recently got myself a set of full roller rockers but it wasn't easy telling which ones would work or not. I searched a lot and asked several times but never got what I needed so I did some of my own research. I ended up buying a set from summit that on there website said fit the 3.4 but were to wide. So I made a bunch of phone calls and asked a lot of questions. I called comp cams, crane cams, summit, scorpion performance, arp. Everyplace I called gave me excellent service, but the real breakthrough came from crane cams. First off I knew someone here was using Scorpion rockers, but scorpion doesn't make them for our application, but they make narrow body ones for the 4.3 vortec. So I asked crane cams if there gold full roller rocker that they sell for our application is the same rocker they sell for the 4.3 and so it is. At some point chevy changed how they bolt the head down on the 4.3, they refer to it as center bolt down valve covers, and because of this they require a narrow body rocker just like we need on the 2.8 and 3.4. So when you buy full roller rockers buy narrow body rockers for the 4.3 vortec, and the same when buying the conversion studs. When you call ARP you have to ask for the vortec conversion studs, they don't list them for our application. The new set that I ordered were the scorpion full roller rocker self aligning ones for the 4.3 and there is plenty of side to side clearance. I haven't tested the valve cover clearance yet but I will add that info when I get it and anything else I remember later on. Another thing is it didn't seem to matter whether you use self aligning rockers or not, as long as you remove the guide plate if using the self aligning ones. I got that same reply from a couple different techs from different companies. Please feel free to add good info to this thread.
Are these the same length as the stock rockers or for getting a higher ratio ? Going to rollers for the gas savings would be interesting.
The ones that I got are 1.6 ratio, and I do have a mild cam already installed. Thats why I'm a little concerned about clearance. Next time I get a chance I will measure both the stock and the new rollers with a digital caliper and see what the difference is. I was told there is a slight difference in the lengths by one of the techs, but he also said that it is so slight that it won't make any difference and the stock pushrods are fine, no need to remeasure.
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01:13 PM
Jun 3rd, 2011
fierofinder Member
Posts: 636 From: Battle Ground, WA Registered: Apr 2007
There are some fitting issues. The stud cap sits up to high and hits the valve covers, and also they are pretty close to each other at the tops. I'm going to just file a little of the upper corners to be sure they don't hit. Also I'm going to try and make a spacer for the valve covers. I'm going to try some oil resistant plastic rated for 260 deg. If that doesnt hold up I'll have the machine sop make some out of aluminum. I looked into the edelbrock valve covers, but they say they only come in stock height.
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01:06 AM
lou_dias Member
Posts: 5347 From: Warwick, RI Registered: Jun 2000
Not sure if that thread came up when I searched, and if it did I may not have checked it out since I'm using the 3.4 pushrod not the 3400, and i'm not using a roller cam.
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02:55 PM
lou_dias Member
Posts: 5347 From: Warwick, RI Registered: Jun 2000
The cam won't change the rockers... I'm using a 3400 block with Fiero heads. All I had to change was the pushrod length and I had to use 1.6 rockers to get the stock roller cam lift. I would never put in a flat tappet cam again, roller is the now.
I have a set of Scorpion 1.6's on my new engine. I have the Edelbrock valve covers so I don't know if they clear the stock valve covers. I got them for the narrow body application with the 3/8's/ 10mm conversion studs.
I used the conversion studs on my present 2.8 and I can tell you that to set up using them your adjustment is the same as an SBC. You go to "0" play and then tighten 1/4 turn. That is all.
The 1.6 roller tips I am using really change the exhaust note and they do free up some horses. The full rollers will add flexibility to your usable rpms.
Originally posted by Arns85GT: I used the conversion studs on my present 2.8 and I can tell you that to set up using them your adjustment is the same as an SBC. You go to "0" play and then tighten 1/4 turn. That is all. Arn
Having SBC threaded studs doesn't mean the proper adjustment is exactly how you do it on a SBC. There are other factors involved.
Narrow body rockers are also available for the vortec 96-2k 5.0/5.7 305/350 motors also. I have a set of stainless 1.6's out in the shop. Sometimes they are easier to find then the V6/4.3 rockers and you've got spares (generally not much price difference either). Just make sure you tell them you need narrow body for vortec heads,or they will send you stocker wide body's. Proform makes some low cost narrow body rockers. I'll have to see if mine fit now just to see,lol. I've got a 3.4 and 2.8 in the shop.
That thread ends up recommending 1.5 turns which is WAY OVER. I've done it. I can tell you that 3/4 turns on a new SBC is one thing, but 1/4 turn on broken in lifters is plenty for full rollers on 3/8's" threads.
Arn
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08:16 PM
Sep 13th, 2011
fierofinder Member
Posts: 636 From: Battle Ground, WA Registered: Apr 2007
Would you mind going a little more in depth with your experiance with this. I havent had time to work on my Fiero lately, but I haven't got it started since I did the 7730 swap and the roller rockers. It tries to start but kind of backfires and dies like it is trying to fire on the wrong cylinder. I've been working with Darth on all the components of the 7730 swap, but was curious is actually having my rockers overtight would cause them not to open enough and cause issues. I tightened mine right at like 1 1/4. Was hoping for a little more insight on this before I pull the valve covers off and do the lash over.