How do I get the hub off the steering wheel? Its spot welded in about 5 spots. I assume I need that piece for the adapter. I have a six bolt steering wheel so that part isn't a problem but I haven't seen anyone run into this issue before...
You can just barely see one of the spot welds in this pic.
You don't reuse parts of the stock wheel to install an aftermarket wheel. The hub is considered integral with the wheel on stock steering wheels. Typically an aftermarket wheel such as by Grant is installed with an adapter purchased separately.
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06:06 PM
IMSA GT Member
Posts: 10484 From: California Registered: Aug 2007
I think the issue is that it is a notchback steering wheel. The GT has a hub that you can drill out and rivet your new wheel on to. That way you can retain the stock look or go aftermarket. PM Tony Kania about his design:
quote
Originally posted by Tony Kania:
He, he, he. Beat me to it. ^ ...... My alternative. v
FYI.... When selecting a wheel and adapter, purchase an adapter that suits you. Meaning, Adapters come in different sizes. Some put the wheel much, much closer to the driver. I have very long arms, and did not like the Grant adapter. It put it about 2" closer to me, and I hated the steering wheel placement. I modified my stock steering wheel hub a bit, to fit a Grant wheel. Now, it is where stock is, and feels great. (Thank's Dogcreek!)
Actually, when I say modified, I mean slightly. I measured twice, and put the Grant wheel directly to the stock GT steering wheel hub. The Fiero hub has 5 M6 machine screws holding the wheel to the hub. The Grant wheel has 6 M6 machine screws holding it to the adapter. With a bit of measuring, I was able to square up the Grant wheel to the Fiero hub. I drilled and tapped new holes, then used the proper hardware to mount it all together.
Had a bit of time so I drilled the rivets out a bit and then pounded the hub off the steering wheel, came off without much fuss,
So do I need to just make a spacer that is the length that I want? Can I use the two bolt holes to connect a spacer to the hub? Would that be strong enough?
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09:06 PM
James Bond 007 Member
Posts: 8871 From: California.U.S.A. Registered: Dec 2002
I asume you didnt get a hub for that wheel or if you did it isnt made for a Fiero.Looks like your going to have to fab something your self.A scrap steel yard usuall has loads of small pieces of everthing and anything. some hub parts and steering wheels http://shop.ebay.com/i.html...t=See-All-Categories
I asume you didnt get a hub for that wheel or if you did it isnt made for a Fiero.Looks like your going to have to fab something your self.A scrap steel yard usuall has loads of small pieces of everthing and anything. some hub parts and steering wheels http://shop.ebay.com/i.html...t=See-All-Categories
That hub is from the stock fiero steering wheel.
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10:16 PM
James Bond 007 Member
Posts: 8871 From: California.U.S.A. Registered: Dec 2002
Oh yea,my goof, your going to want a hub specificalley designed for that steering wheel and it shoild be designed to adapt to the Fiero,otherwise if you dont have the hub,your going to have to fab something your self....Good Luck
You have the wrong wheel hub. The one you need is from a GT 3 spoke steering wheel (maybe even the base model 3 spoke). Here's what it looks like with an adapter that was made to fit a 6 bolt aftermarket wheel.
You have the wrong wheel hub. The one you need is from a GT 3 spoke steering wheel (maybe even the base model 3 spoke). Here's what it looks like with an adapter that was made to fit a 6 bolt aftermarket wheel.
How is the adapter attached to that hub?
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12:26 AM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17091 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
This is what I did with my GT wheel. Dogcreek gave me his fairly new Grant wheel with an adaptor. My arms are long, and the adaptor felt like it was a foot long. I was sitting all NASCAR in my Fiero, and needed to come up with a solution. The adaptor also was flimsy, and I could move the wheel around it's axis. Fosgatecavy, you are on the right track. But...
1. The two bolt holes are for removing the hub from the shaft with a puller. Please do not use them to mount your new wheel to.
2. You want a GT Hub like Fiero_Adam stated. You could make your own adaptor to the hub using the new wheel as a guide? Remember, it is for the steering of the car, so strength is paramount.
3. Center your wheels, and measure, measure, measure. Then drill out the 6 holes for the new wheel into the hub/adaptor. There are five in the Fiero hub, and you need to not drill into those, but it DOES work.
This is what I did with my GT wheel. I even used the colar from the GT wheel, and fabbed in the center emblem. The Grant wheel fits in the stock position, and there is no shakey, shakey.
Edit: I had to go out and get pics of how it was mounted.
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[This message has been edited by Tony Kania (edited 05-18-2011).]
Not to be a pain but I am still not seeing the difference between the GT hub and mine? Any way I could coax you into taking the steering wheel off? I have yet to see a picture of the hub attached to the spacer without the steering wheel. I still don't see why your GT hub works but the standard hub I have won't work...
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12:29 AM
IMSA GT Member
Posts: 10484 From: California Registered: Aug 2007
The reason that your hub will not work (without adding a mounting plate) is this.....
Here is your hub:
Here is the GT hub:
Look at the center of the GT hub and you can see basically your hub inside of it. Your hub is missing the outer ring and "fingers" that hold the steering wheel mounting ring on. Your hub fits inside the center of your wheel where the GT one uses that ring with the holes drilled in it to mount the wheel.
The reason that your hub will not work (without adding a mounting plate) is this.....
Look at the center of the GT hub and you can see basically your hub inside of it. Your hub is missing the outer ring and "fingers" that hold the steering wheel mounting ring on. Your hub fits inside the center of your wheel where the GT one uses that ring with the holes drilled in it to mount the wheel.
Those fingers weren't part of an adapter? Those are actually on the hub and just that outer ring was added?
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11:56 AM
IMSA GT Member
Posts: 10484 From: California Registered: Aug 2007
Those fingers weren't part of an adapter? Those are actually on the hub and just that outer ring was added?
No, that is what the stock GT hub looks like if you remove it from the factory wheel and remove the plastic trim piece. You are correct in that the ring was added and drilled to fit his steering wheel but the fingers are stock. If you look at Tony's photos above, you can get an idea of the size of the entire hub. It fits entirely behind the steering wheel and is drilled out to match your new wheels bolt pattern.
Edit to add.....if you look at the photo of the GT hub, you can see the factory black allen screws around the outside. Compare those to Tony's photo and you can see how he mounted his wheel. Instead if an adapter plate, he simply drilled his steering wheel to fit the factory allen screw locations.
[This message has been edited by IMSA GT (edited 05-19-2011).]
I tried the same thing with that very same $18 wheel, (didn't want to lay out the $70 for the adapter) . CAN be done, alot easier with the gt wheel center.
Well since I did not get much of a response to buying a GT wheel, I decided to dig around and found a chuck of scrap metal and just build my own.
I took this,
and turned it into this,
I think I am going to weld 3 1 inch beads between my adapter and the stock hub I have there, I left a bit of room so there I can get good penetration. I left enough material so I can drill two new holes for the puller if I needed to take it off again as well. Probably not going to have a horn tho, but I've never had one on this car anyways...
You guys think welding should be good enough? I assume so since the stock just had some spot welds on it.
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08:04 PM
Tony Kania Member
Posts: 20794 From: The Inland Northwest Registered: Dec 2008
Fresh idea. I don't see any issues with welds. It looks like you got a good hold of it.
Tony
Thanks, I figured it would of taken more time, but I came across the metal piece that worked perfectly, diameter wise, and it only took about two hours on the laythe to get this far, now just to drill for the steering wheel and weld the other end and paint