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Need Some Help With Autopage RF 225 Alarm install . . . by zmcdonal
Started on: 06-23-2011 06:56 PM
Replies: 11
Last post by: spark1 on 07-02-2011 08:55 PM
zmcdonal
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Report this Post06-23-2011 06:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zmcdonalSend a Private Message to zmcdonalDirect Link to This Post
Recently I purchased an Autopage RF 225 alarm and it says on the instructions that it is for professional installation only, which is probably why they are so brief. For the most part I think I have a good idea how to wire everything up, but there are a few wires that I am unsure about and could use some advice.


Here is the Fiero wiring information that was found on the12volt.com


Ok the wiring for harness H3 seems pretty easy and self explanatory to me so I think I am ok there just the lock and unlock triggers and 12V constant, right? I just wanted to post all of the diagrams in case there is something that I am missing.


I have a couple questions regarding the wiring for the H1 harness.
1.) If I am not using a siren, what should I do with that wire, I do not have one at the moment but will possibly add one in the future.
2.) In the specs it is listed as having a relay for parking light flash on board where do the red/white (wire 1) and the white (wire 2) go? Do they both go to the brown wire coming from the parking light switch?


I also have a couple questions for connector H2
1.) When they say door pin switch, do I wire it to the switch in the jam that activates the dome lights, or the door ajar switch? I was thinking the ajar switch would be a better idea because it is more sensitive.
2.) Where does wire #3 (blue wire) go? What is instant trigger ground?
3.) What kind of relay do I need to have for the starter kill feature to work? Do I use just a regular relay like this:

4.) If I do not use the kill relay option, what do I need to do with the Orange wire? Leave it alone or ground it or?
5.) I am assuming that the #7 (gray wire) gets used for the trunk release?


Sorry for such a long post with all of these questions. I just really want to be sure I know what I am doing before I start this project especially because it is for my daily driver. I really appreciate the help.
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zmcdonal
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Report this Post06-23-2011 09:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zmcdonalSend a Private Message to zmcdonalDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by zmcdonal:

I also have a couple questions for connector H2
1.) When they say door pin switch, do I wire it to the switch in the jam that activates the dome lights, or the door ajar switch? I was thinking the ajar switch would be a better idea because it is more sensitive.


After thinking about it some I realize that it would have to be wired to the dome light swtch because the ajar switch is only hot when the key is on. Right?

[This message has been edited by zmcdonal (edited 06-23-2011).]

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timgray
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Report this Post06-23-2011 10:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for timgrayClick Here to visit timgray's HomePageSend a Private Message to timgrayDirect Link to This Post
no siren? ok cut it and use the horn wire, but that will probably require another relay to make the alarm honk the horn for you, I have never used the horn output. you will need to set the horn option in the alarm setup. Again do not lose the documentation you will never get another copy.

White wire to parking lights to flash them. just tap it in as it will add 12V to them, your blue dinger will ding when they flash.

red white goes to the +12V as shown in the wiring diagram.

door pin switch. if it shorts t o ground when the door is open you can use it for the input. the wiring diagram shows you hook it to the negative side of the dome light circuit not the switch it's self. Sensitive is only important if you have really skinny thieves that can make it through the door without opening it enough to turn on the dome light.

blue wire as shown, to the pin wire tip on zone two door pin, I.E. trunk lid pin if you want the alarm to go off when armed and someone pops the trunk lid. there is one in the front as well.

Gray wire is trunk pop. Again 200ma, I believe that the fiero has a relay already for trunk pop so that will go to the output of the switch on the dash.


Take your time and test, don't try to install this 30 minutes before you have to leave for work. On your next day off, take the WHOLE day to install the alarm and always do things in a way you can undo them in case something goes wrong.

I also recommend looking up the fiero power locks setup and read up on the 12V forum the howto's on alarm lock wiring. it can be tricky.
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zmcdonal
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Report this Post06-25-2011 12:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for zmcdonalSend a Private Message to zmcdonalDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by timgray:

no siren? ok cut it and use the horn wire, but that will probably require another relay to make the alarm honk the horn for you, I have never used the horn output. you will need to set the horn option in the alarm setup. Again do not lose the documentation you will never get another copy.

blue wire as shown, to the pin wire tip on zone two door pin, I.E. trunk lid pin if you want the alarm to go off when armed and someone pops the trunk lid. there is one in the front as well.

I also recommend looking up the fiero power locks setup and read up on the 12V forum the howto's on alarm lock wiring. it can be tricky.


Yeah no siren at first, I think I will probably end up adding one soon though. Any recommendation what siren to buy and where to buy one from?

If I decide to not use the blue instant trigger wire, do I need to do anything with it like ground it or just leave it alone?

I found this in another thread on here referring to hooking up keyless. It seems like since my Autopage unit has dual polarity lock outputs it should be as simple as connecting the three wires.


 
quote
Originally posted by Oreif:

The Fiero's are "positive trigger" All I use to do when I installed alarm systems was run the positive trigger wire from the alarm box to the side of the switch. you should have 3 wires. One goes to the lock side, one goes to the unlock side, and the 3rd gets hooked to +12V. (Battery not accessory)
Positive trigger means it need 12V to activate the lock/unlock relays.
Hope this helps.


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timgray
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Report this Post06-25-2011 08:22 AM Click Here to See the Profile for timgrayClick Here to visit timgray's HomePageSend a Private Message to timgrayDirect Link to This Post
you can leave the blue wire taped off and disable it in the programming if you want but floating will be the same as hooked to a door pin when the door is closed.

As for the lock and unlock, it says 200ma in the document you have there, give it a try. at most you will have to add a set of relays to handle the higher power requirement.

Newer alarms are made for new cars that have everything relay and ecm controlled, the fiero being a 80's car ends up needing relays all over the place for technology upgrades like adding alarms.

AS for siren... try and find a single "note" type.. one that just makes the sound of a single siren not the type you hear that keeps changing it's siren tone.

http://www.amazon.com/Insta...d=1309004662&sr=8-15

this is a six or 1 tone. so you can choose.

[This message has been edited by timgray (edited 06-25-2011).]

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zmcdonal
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Report this Post06-29-2011 01:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zmcdonalSend a Private Message to zmcdonalDirect Link to This Post
I don't know that I will be installing the starter kill relay right away. Does the yellow wire still go to the ignition if I choose not to use a starter kill or do I just not use it? And what do I need to do with the orange wire if I am not using the starter kill, just tape it off I'm guessing? Thanks for all of your help.

I am guessing I still hook up the yellow wire to the ignition, after thinking about it. Since you can shut the alarm off if you have the key turned to on and push the valet switch within 10 seconds of entry I would think the yellow wire would still need to be connected.

[This message has been edited by zmcdonal (edited 06-29-2011).]

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timgray
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Report this Post06-29-2011 09:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for timgrayClick Here to visit timgray's HomePageSend a Private Message to timgrayDirect Link to This Post
yellow wire sets off the alarm if someone hot-wires the car, and lets the alarm know the ignition was turned on so you cant arm the alarm while you are driving down the road.

Orange is taped off until used.
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zmcdonal
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Report this Post06-30-2011 09:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zmcdonalSend a Private Message to zmcdonalDirect Link to This Post
Ok almost finished with the install, and the questions, learned a lot so far. Today I wired everything up, everything works except for the trunk botton on my remotes. I connected the gray wire to the gray/black wire at the release switch. I am assuming that I need to install a relay to change the polarity of the output wire, because when I put my test light on the gray/black wire it lit up when I hit the release. To me that would mean that it's a positive output. Does that sound correct? Or is there something I'm missing?

Also if I was to use the blue instant trigger ground to set off the alarm if the trunk was opened what would be the easiest place to hook that up? I see in the wiring listing for the Fiero it has trunk pin listed so would I connect the blue wire to the orange/black wire at the release switch? Thanks again for all of your help.
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Report this Post07-01-2011 10:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for timgrayClick Here to visit timgray's HomePageSend a Private Message to timgrayDirect Link to This Post
yup relay to reverse it.

you will need to get a wire into the engine compartment and tap into the pin switch wire there. that wire does not enter the cabin it stays in the engine compartment.
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Report this Post07-01-2011 10:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for timgrayClick Here to visit timgray's HomePageSend a Private Message to timgrayDirect Link to This Post

timgray

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yup relay to reverse it.

you will need to get a wire into the engine compartment and tap into the pin switch wire there. that wire does not enter the cabin it stays in the engine compartment.
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zmcdonal
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Report this Post07-02-2011 12:02 AM Click Here to See the Profile for zmcdonalSend a Private Message to zmcdonalDirect Link to This Post


Does this look right? Found in on the12volt, when searching for "how to convert a negative output to a positive output."

pin 30 = orange and blue wire at switch
pin 86 = orange and blue wire at switch
pin 87 = gray and black wire at switch
pin 85 = programmable output wire from the keyless unit

Am I interpreting the schematic the correct way?
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spark1
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Report this Post07-02-2011 08:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for spark1Send a Private Message to spark1Direct Link to This Post
Yes, your interpretation of the relay wiring is correct.



The “trunk pin” wiring shown in the table is for the “ajar” lamp circuit. It will work for the trunk but also the doors since they are wired to the same circuit.

[This message has been edited by spark1 (edited 07-04-2011).]

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