I'm doing the final updates in my design for adjustable rear coilover strut plates and will start to produce them soon.


I will offer 3 types all will have adjustable camber from the top.

1 84-87
2 88
3 88 cradle in early chassis

I will offer them as plates only, with coilover set, or with struts

Just getting a feeler on this to see if I will do a couple for myself or offer them for sale on a larger scale.

Anyone who has done an alignment knows how fun adjusting camber on the rear of the Fiero is. This would allow quick adjustments on camber from the top strut plate under the deck lid

Sound off if it may be something you may want. Cost not set yet.

Thanks

Vince


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[This message has been edited by Snapperhead (edited 07-07-2011).]

count me in if price is reasonable year 84

If price is not too bad, I need one for my future 88 in 86 cradle swap!

I have a set already done for the rear some drilling required I did them before we did the 88 swap a racing company did them never mounted paid 199 149 free shipping pm me

quote Originally posted by loudecuz: I have a set already done for the rear some drilling required I did them before we did the 88 swap a racing company did them never mounted paid 199 149 free shipping pm me

If your looking to sell them place them in the mall with a pic, I'm sure you will sell them.

Vince

i would be interested. sounds like a great idea

Definitely interested in a set of '88 plates. With coil-overs, how many degrees negative do you think your setup will gain?

~Neil

i would be interested too. Sounds like a great idea.

I'm interested, I just need to know cost...

I'm sorry if this is a dumb question, but I am not sure what exactly you are offering here for sale. Do you have a pic of the product or better yet an assembled rear suspension with one installed. You mentioned coilovers do you mean coilover shocks or coilovers springs installed on the rear struts.


Thanks
Mike

Adjusting the rear camber via the stock method really isn't that hard.
-Tighten the top bolt
-Push the wheel where it needs to go
-Tighten the bottom bolt

Not sure why you feel there's a need for this.

Consider this situation:
-Stock camber adjustment at the knuckle is all the way positive on one side, all the way negative on the other.
-Knuckle adjustment is left alone and the alignment is brought into "spec" using camber plates
-The kingpin inclination is now significantly different left to right.
-The car has different amounts of camber *GAIN* left to right and therefore different grip/handling in left turns and right turns.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 09-13-2011).]

hey, Will, i was thinking along those same lines when i first read this post (and would love to see pics!), but then i was wondering, if i used the knuckle to adjust camber, could i not use the camber plate to adjust rear roll center or camber gain? (maybe i have terms all confused too). i thought i read somewhere the 88 used strut mounts moved closer to the inside of the car to help one of those two measurements. this might help the earlier years?

They could be used for that. He wasn't trying to sell them for that purpose, though.

I'd be more inclined to make a static mount that moves the top of a coil over strut inboard as far as possible in the stock tower.

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 09-14-2011).]

Sorry I haven't made any notes back here. I forgot to check the let me know box when I set this thread and I never came back to look thinking no posting going on.

I put it on the back fences for now.. I will get back into it this winter and hope to have a set ready for spring to do some testing on the road and track.

My goel on this was to allow me to do some quick adjustments track side at the top of my car. This may not be needed or an option for everyone but would make an alignment easier at the shop after the first alignment was set and the plates are centered.

I was just putting a feeler out there before I got to far into the project and checking on a need.

Thanks,,
Vince

quote Originally posted by Snapperhead: after the first alignment was set and the plates are centered.

Read above... Since Fieros have *plenty* of camber adjustability stock, centering the plates isn't the best use for them.

quote Originally posted by Will: Adjusting the rear camber via the stock method really isn't that hard. -Tighten the top bolt -Push the wheel where it needs to go -Tighten the bottom bolt Not sure why you feel there's a need for this. Consider this situation: -Stock camber adjustment at the knuckle is all the way positive on one side, all the way negative on the other. -Knuckle adjustment is left alone and the alignment is brought into "spec" using camber plates -The kingpin inclination is now significantly different left to right. -The car has different amounts of camber *GAIN* left to right and therefore different grip/handling in left turns and right turns.

Your situation is a correct statement if done the in the order you stated


I see it for me as the following use.

You install the camber plates at zero for camber and caster and then set your base alignment.

Index the camber plates on the alignment rack.

Then at track side I could + or - .5 deg of camber with in seconds and keep base alignment correct when I go back to zero, no guess work. You could also index the plate for different tracks or events if needed.

Does this sound correct or am I wrong on this?

Vince

[This message has been edited by Snapperhead (edited 09-14-2011).]

any update on this?

i use eccentric strut bolts on the bottom bolt hole on the strut .NAPA part 264-3609 .using normal bolts works but this saves time and money at the alignment shop .just bought a set for 46.00 including tax .these give you plus or minus 2 1/4 degrees according to the package .

quote Originally posted by Snapperhead: Does this sound correct or am I wrong on this?

It sounds correct, however I think you'll find adjustment at the plate won't be as simple as you anticipate. Also, the hole in the top of the strut tower isn't nearly large enough to allow for access to the adjustment and index portions of the plate. And for those of us with the later model cradle in an early model car, I'm not sure I would want to cut a six inch hole at the corner of the tower. Cool idea, but not very practical. You make nice stuff, I'd love to see a picture of the plate if you ever iron out the details. I can't justify buying one though, due to reasons mentioned above, and my car's a road car; camber doesn't need to change on the fly.

[This message has been edited by L67 (edited 10-30-2011).]

Interested in '88 cradle in earlier chassis adapter/camber plates. As War hammer comes to a close another project opens up.

Paul

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quote Originally posted by wftb: i use eccentric strut bolts on the bottom bolt hole on the strut .NAPA part 264-3609 .using normal bolts works but this saves time and money at the alignment shop .just bought a set for 46.00 including tax .these give you plus or minus 2 1/4 degrees according to the package .

what is an eccentric strut bolt? Just trying to do some research on alignments and this peeked my interest

quote Originally posted by Snapperhead: Then at track side I could + or - .5 deg of camber with in seconds and keep base alignment correct when I go back to zero, no guess work. You could also index the plate for different tracks or events if needed. Does this sound correct or am I wrong on this?

Changing the camber changes the toe in an '84-'87 car. Even if you can get repeatability in your camber adjustment, you may have to reset toe each time you change the camber.

quote Originally posted by Will: Changing the camber changes the toe in an '84-'87 car. Even if you can get repeatability in your camber adjustment, you may have to reset toe each time you change the camber.

The same appplies to most FWD applications for MacPhersons, which you know, are setup almost identical to the 84-87 rear, But people still use camber plates, despite the geometry effects outside of altered camber. Im sure most users dont realise it, and just relate the behavioural dynamics to the camber change alone.

These changes dont have to be something that stops someone from using a product like this, but people should be aware, as rear toe configuration will greatly affect vehicle response and stabilty, especially under high loading.

Progress?

quote Originally posted by fierocarparts: Progress?

I've scraped the idea but will be making a few coilover hats for all three styles.

Vince