Getting a code 41 and 43. I know 43 is the knock sensor and that is confirmed through tuner pro and an ALDL cable. The knock counter runs up to 200something then resets back to zero and keeps cycling fairly fast. About 5-6 seconds per loop or less. The ecm will pull the timing 15 degrees after it has run for a few minutes. Makes no difference whether the knock sensor is connected or not, will still cycle and pull timing regardless. checked continuity to the ECM, all ok. Using a knock sensor form a early 90's 3.1 I believe on a 96 Northstar swap. Any Ideas?
Edit: Using a Moates memcal adaptor to run a 512 chip which may be the source of the code 41..
Edit 2: Getting +5V at the sensor with key on and the appropriate resistance with key off, thinking bad ECM possibly?
[This message has been edited by 17Car (edited 07-14-2011).]
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07:09 PM
PFF
System Bot
Jul 15th, 2011
bnevets27 Member
Posts: 264 From: Ontario, Canada Registered: Oct 2007
I had trouble with getting knock on my 7730 also. Didn't matter what I did, unplug, plug, resistor to fool it, I always got knock once and a while in my logs. I had to get the knock sensor programed out of my chip. I'm running a basically stock 2.8 so I know it wasn't knocking.
Code is a modified #A1 code that Ryan Hess came up with for the Northstar. ECM doesn't have a memcal, replaced it with a moates adapter and an SF512 chip
The knock sensor circuitry is on the stock memcal along with the eprom and limp home circuitry. I'm not sure exactly what you are describing with your setup. Here is a pic of mine:
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06:12 PM
fieroguru Member
Posts: 12311 From: Champaign, IL Registered: Aug 2003
Getting a code 41 and 43. I know 43 is the knock sensor and that is confirmed through tuner pro and an ALDL cable. The knock counter runs up to 200something then resets back to zero and keeps cycling fairly fast. About 5-6 seconds per loop or less. The ecm will pull the timing 15 degrees after it has run for a few minutes. Makes no difference whether the knock sensor is connected or not, will still cycle and pull timing regardless. checked continuity to the ECM, all ok. Using a knock sensor form a early 90's 3.1 I believe on a 96 Northstar swap. Any Ideas?
I had a mail order tune for my 7730 running 8D mask (Ramjet350) and it would do the same with the knock counter just cycling through the sequence. It never set a code and didn't appear to pull any timing, just annoying and a sign that something wasn't right. Swapped to a stock bin file (running Moates Ostrich Emulator, so that was quite easy) and it stopped the counting, even though I was using the same memcal base and knock sensor circuit.
I would try another memcal. You need to make sure the memcal (and its knock sensor circuits) match the knock sensor you are using and that the sensor is a good fit for the engine you are using.
The knock sensor could be too sensitive (like tightened too much, too close to header noise, rattily engine - like with a gear drive, etc). You can lessen the sensitivity with a couple of wraps of teflon tape, but you still want it to work.
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06:42 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17091 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Try pulling the pin E9, leaving it out and see if you still get the trouble. If so it eliminates the wiring and leaves the trouble to be internal to the ECM & MEM/CAL
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08:25 PM
17Car Member
Posts: 482 From: Morrisdale, PA Registered: Jun 2009
The knock sensor circuitry is on the stock memcal along with the eprom and limp home circuitry. I'm not sure exactly what you are describing with your setup. Here is a pic of mine:
That may be part of my problem, I did not realize that the stock memcal also plugs into the moates adapter. Is there a specific way it plugs in? I tried it the way you have pictured, but it will also fit the other way. Putting the stock memcal in solved the knock sensor and cound/code 43 issue, but now the car has a high, fluctuating idle and stumbles/misses. Is there something on the stock memcal that needs disconnected? Still getting code 41....
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09:08 PM
phonedawgz Member
Posts: 17091 From: Green Bay, WI USA Registered: Dec 2009
Take a look at the adapter. The traces that used to run to the chip on the module needs to now run new chip. So basically both chips go to the same side. The notch on the chip should be going to the same side as it is on the module.
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09:26 PM
17Car Member
Posts: 482 From: Morrisdale, PA Registered: Jun 2009
Ok, so it is in correctly. New thought, the memcal is from a V6 car and I am running a V8 N*. Now from what I have been reading on thirdgen.org, there is a difference between the v6 and v8 memcals an you need one that has the same # of cylinders. So I am thinking I need a V8 memcal. can anyone confirm this?
Edit: that would explain the code 41...
[This message has been edited by 17Car (edited 07-15-2011).]
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09:47 PM
fieroguru Member
Posts: 12311 From: Champaign, IL Registered: Aug 2003
Ok, so it is in correctly. New thought, the memcal is from a V6 car and I am running a V8 N*. Now from what I have been reading on thirdgen.org, there is a difference between the v6 and v8 memcals an you need one that has the same # of cylinders. So I am thinking I need a V8 memcal. can anyone confirm this?
Edit: that would explain the code 41...
The resistor packs for limp home mode are different between the V6 and V8 memcals. There used to be a thread on thirdgen several years back where guys were comparing them to find an alternative for the 90-92 SD memcals that were getting hard to come by.
Also, if you are using this on a N*, you might want to use the saturn knock sensor (small bore, aluminum block and compatible with the V8 7730 knock circuit). I used one a couple years back on a 4.9 caddy using the 7730 with an 305/5 speed memcal running 8D code mask.