Pennock's Fiero Forum
  Technical Discussion & Questions - Archive
  Swapping a 4 cylinder for a V6 in an 86 fiero

T H I S   I S   A N   A R C H I V E D   T O P I C
  

Email This Page to Someone! | Printable Version


Swapping a 4 cylinder for a V6 in an 86 fiero by CShoecraft
Started on: 11-03-2011 10:26 AM
Replies: 5
Last post by: bowrapennocks on 11-03-2011 07:14 PM
CShoecraft
Junior Member
Posts: 2
From: bellingham, WA
Registered: Nov 2011


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post11-03-2011 10:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CShoecraftSend a Private Message to CShoecraftDirect Link to This Post
I just bought a 1986 fiero with a 4 that had a knocking sound. The guy that had it shut it off and put it in storage after he heard knocking. It hasn't been run in 3 years and I am afraid to try and start it because of the knocking sound. I would either like to take this engine out and put a V6 in or fix the engine thats in it. Is it possible to pull a rod out of the fiero thru the bottom of the car without taking the engine out? I know in some cars you can just pulll it out thru the bottom and put a new one in but I am not sure if this is the case with my car.
Also, to put a 6 in this car do I need a new cradle or anything special to put it in or is it fairly simple?
Thank you
IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
gtxbullet
Member
Posts: 4180
From: Pewaukee, Wisconsin, USA
Registered: Apr 2008


Feedback score:    (88)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post11-03-2011 10:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for gtxbulletSend a Private Message to gtxbulletDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by CShoecraft:

I just bought a 1986 fiero with a 4 that had a knocking sound. The guy that had it shut it off and put it in storage after he heard knocking. It hasn't been run in 3 years and I am afraid to try and start it because of the knocking sound. I would either like to take this engine out and put a V6 in or fix the engine thats in it. Is it possible to pull a rod out of the fiero thru the bottom of the car without taking the engine out? I know in some cars you can just pulll it out thru the bottom and put a new one in but I am not sure if this is the case with my car.
Also, to put a 6 in this car do I need a new cradle or anything special to put it in or is it fairly simple?
Thank you


is it possible - yes (anything is possible)
but I've always had to take it out through the top.
it's not that hard to do. if you have any mechanical skills it should take under 3-4 hours.

as for a v6 swap. it's pretty straight forward. get a complete running 2.8L v6 with exhaust, and the rear coolant cross-over pipe and youre set.
you'll need a V6 clutch kit and computer.
IP: Logged
Carrolles
Member
Posts: 2799
From: Alabaster, AL USA
Registered: Apr 99


Feedback score: (3)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post11-03-2011 11:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CarrollesSend a Private Message to CarrollesDirect Link to This Post
you will also need teh V-6 fuel pump. The 4 cyl requires fuel pressure around 15 psi while the V-6 requires around 43 psi.
IP: Logged
Celthora87GT
Member
Posts: 1485
From: New Berlin, WI
Registered: Dec 2010


Feedback score: (5)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post11-03-2011 04:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Celthora87GTSend a Private Message to Celthora87GTDirect Link to This Post
By the way WELCOME TO THE MADNESS!!!!
yes its not hard at all i had a complete 2.8 drop out for sale a month ago but sadly i parted it out

------------------
1987 Black GT Custom interior with Mr. Mikes seats Series 1 L67 W/ 5 speed getrag! not running yet

IP: Logged
mattman134
Member
Posts: 643
From: Buford, Ohio
Registered: Dec 2009


Feedback score:    (33)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post11-03-2011 05:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mattman134Send a Private Message to mattman134Direct Link to This Post
You also have to change fuel lines(on 85-86) and throttle cable.

I am in the process of a 4cy to V6 swap right now. Should be done this week

Matt
IP: Logged
bowrapennocks
Member
Posts: 872
From: Seattle WA
Registered: Jun 2008


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post11-03-2011 07:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bowrapennocksDirect Link to This Post
Welcome to Pennocks. I just looked at your post, and realized you are only about 60 miles from me (Woodinville, WA).

Here is my notes from an 86 V6 engine into an 87 4cyl car:
• You need the fuel pump and throttle cable from a 2.8L
• The left side for/aft coolant tube on the 2.5 is about 4-6” longer on the 2.5. You can cut it down, but remember the flare is no longer there, so double clamp it. I changed to the 2.8 coolant tube because I had one. It is a lot of work to snake this tube around the front suspension. You have to remove the front trunk floor, left shock, etc.
• The for/aft heater pipe that connects to the thermostat housing through a molded hose is different for the 2.8. I changed mine, but you don’t have to…just use more heater hose.
• There is a heater line that goes into the water pump on the 85-86 2.8 (hard line from the firewall, along the frame rails and to the back of the engine compartment). A hose connects this line to the water pump. This line is eliminated on the 87-88 cars because the water return is plumbed into one of the for/aft coolant tubes). You have to plug the place where the line goes to the 86 water pump if you swap a V6 into an 87-88 car.
• You need the dogbone from a 2.8…it is shorter
• You need an air filter housing, plastic elbow that is below it, and rubber boot that goes between the throttle body and air filter. It is a very tight fit around the shift cables if you use the Isuzu 5 speed. I made a new boot, but at least one person has used the stock 2.8 air intake boot. I thought it could not be done, but someone sent me a picture of it, so I know it can be done.
• You need the engine harness from the 2.8+ECM+ECM mounting bracket (the 2.5 and 2.8 ECM have mounting screws in different places).
• I swapped in the engine bay cooling blower, and the rear wiring harness to power the blower. The blower cools the distributor and alternator. It was eliminated in the 1988 model and many people say it is not necessary.
• The 2.8 harness plugged in to the 2.5 harness and all worked with no issues. Harnesses are slightly different between AC/non AC, 4 sp/5 sp/auto. Depending on what configuration you have, there are wiring differences relating to clutch start lockout, auto/manual trans, AC etc. As far as I know, the locations for all wires are the same on the main connectors, but the wires may be omitted for some configurations. If you do not have access to wiring diagrams in a shop manual, try gaining access to the ALLDATA database, which seems to have the same information as a GM service manual. I have access to it at my local library. Sorry, you have to go to my library as it is not available on the Internet. I had to swap in the main harness from my parts car, as the fuse panel was badly corroded.
• The motor mount is the same, but I put in a new one, as well as new transmission mounts.
• I replaced all engine seals, the timing chain (the engine had 90K on it), the water pump (cast rather than plastic impeller) and had the injectors cleaned. There was a post somewhere on PFF on cheap but good places for injector cleaning. The car does not leak coolant or oil at all; a good investment while replacement was cheap and easy.
• I think the AC brackets are different; my coupe did not have AC, but I swapped it in from my parts car.
• I used the alternator from the 2.8 w/AC which is larger
• I also swapped in the AC, but the main wiring harness for AC controls is different. In the end, I had to swap the main harness only because the fuse panel was badly corroded on my otherwise rust free car. I was glad I had a parts car.
• I installed a new Fiero Store HD RAM clutch for the 2.8 with the Isuzu throw out bearing. You must match the throwout bearing to the transmission. This clutch works very smoothly and with low effort. A great clutch. The Fiero store told me to use a 2.5 clutch. While this would work, it is smaller in diameter and would wear out faster.
• I used the flywheel that came with the engine; 85-87 2.8 engines require balance weights on the flywheel. 88 engines are neutrally balanced. Putting the wrong flywheel on an engine would lead to early failure. I believe Duke and 2.8 flywheels are different.
• I think the later year fuel lines are the same for the 2.5 and 2.8, but earlier are different (not sure). I put in new Fiero store SS lines.
• I installed the exhaust system from the 2.8. I would replace all of the exhaust manifold bolts with high strength (9.8) studs. My engine had three snapped off and I had to drill one out and helicoil it. It is much easier to do this with the engine out. Also check the exhaust manifolds for cracks. The one on my parts car was cracked.
• I also swapped in cruise control and it works! If you swap the cruise into a car that did not have cruise, you have to change the rear wiring harness…the one that goes to the taillights.


JIM

[This message has been edited by bowrapennocks (edited 11-03-2011).]

IP: Logged



All times are ET (US)

T H I S   I S   A N   A R C H I V E D   T O P I C
  

Contact Us | Back To Main Page

Advertizing on PFF | Fiero Parts Vendors
PFF Merchandise | Fiero Gallery
Real-Time Chat | Fiero Related Auctions on eBay



Copyright (c) 1999, C. Pennock