Sounds Great!

Nice swap! Looks you really did a nice job on everything. Good luck with everything.

Also what kind of wheels do you have on there??! I love those.


Later,
Amir

------------------

1 of 2: Graphite Grey Pearl 87 GT 5 spd: 2.8L (Best 1/4 mile: 15.57@87mph, 2.0 60ft)
2 of 2: Ferrari Red 88 Formula/4T65EHD: 97 GTP Motor (Best 1/4 mile: 12.0@118mph, 1.89 60ft w/True Street Radial Tires not Drag Radials!)

My CarDomain Site
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quote Originally posted by Rare87GT: Nice swap! Looks you really did a nice job on everything. Good luck with everything. Also what kind of wheels do you have on there??! I love those. Later, Amir

Thanks - The wheels are HP Racing Split 5 (18x8).

I'm going to need it. It's not idling right. It will start and ramp the rpms up, then drop for idle and search for the right idle but eventually dies. I can give it gas to keep it alive, but after checking on clubgp it looks like it might be a vacuum leak. I'll try to check for one tonight - any recommendations or suggestions for how to do so would be appreciated.

Quick update to keep alive. The spark plug wires I made hung low enough that they would eventually rub against the axle, so I had to order new wire and make my own again. I also had major problems with the fuel lines leaking. I just redid them for the fourth time and after running for a few minutes, no leaks - but I'll have to let it sit for a while to make sure I've got no slow leaks.

I also found out that my master cylinder has been contaminated and I'm now going to have to either rebuild or replace all my calipers (as well as flush my lines with brake clean and replace my master cylinder). I don't really want to rebuild the rear ones, but I also don't want to pay the steep price of buying some rebuilt ones. If only I knew how much it would cost me to do the 12" brake upgrade, I would have gone with the corvette kit that uses those calipers instead. I just don't know now if I should rebuild my calipers or buy rebuilt ones - any suggestions welcomed...

I have been troubleshooting my idling problem and I have narrowed it down to either the PCM or the ICM. The PCM is much cheaper to replace, so I'm going to try that route first and see what happens.

After I get the idling problem resolved and get my brakes bled, I should be able to test drive it...

The pcm is not causing your idleing problems, you need to scan it and see what is going on before you make up your mind on the problem. Spark issues, and sensor related fueling issues are the only things that would cause a bad idle and still let the motor run without an obvious miss in the top end.

I have never seen an injector driver die on a 3800pcm, and thats about the only thing that can fail in a pcm.

I started my ZZP intercooler install a couple of weeks ago, and before I got it all together I noted that something did not look right. There is a thread with no replies in it on PFF, so I posted on clubgp, and got mixed replies. So I went to the source and emailed Zooomer to see if I had the right parts. As it turned out I had a Gen V core for my Gen 3 blower. The Gen V blower is longer, and the opening in the LIM and intercooler core is larger. had I not noticed and completed the install, I would have had a huge vac leak. I'd double check the intercooler to make sure there is not a leak there, and if it is, make sure you have the right core.

quote Originally posted by darkhorizon: The pcm is not causing your idleing problems, you need to scan it and see what is going on before you make up your mind on the problem. Spark issues, and sensor related fueling issues are the only things that would cause a bad idle and still let the motor run without an obvious miss in the top end. I have never seen an injector driver die on a 3800pcm, and thats about the only thing that can fail in a pcm.

I've done numerous checks - and I should have described what I did before posting that statement. I did have a vacuum leak in the intercooler that I'm very sure I've fixed with lots of RTV. I've been working with DarthFiero on troubleshooting my problems (big thanks to him because I wouldn't be where I am without him). I have scanned the computer and it is throwing 3 codes. They are:

Code 530 - AC Pressure Switch Failure (simple problem since AC is not connected at the moment, the switch wire needs to be grounded where it is open right now)
Code 361 - EST Line Not Toggling (What I believe is the root to *some* of my problems, explaination below)
Code 341 - Intermittent Cam Signal (Am thinking this is also related to 361...unsure though)

As the diagnostic procedure explains:

"The ignition control module (ICM) sends a spark reference and a fuel control signal to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) when the engine is cranking. At the start of crank, the ICM controls ignition timing (module mode). When the PCM recognizes the second fuel control pulse, it applies 5 volts to the bypass CKT 424, commanding the ICM to switch timing to PCM control. An open ignition control (IC) CKT 423 will set Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1350 [or 350] at start-up. An open in the ICM or open or grounded bypass circuit at the time the engine is started will set DTC P1361. The engine may be started but will run on module mode timing."

Now, my guess is that my engine starts up and the PCM tries to send the bypass signal to the ICM, but there is a problem somewhere and thus the ICM maintains control of the timing via the module mode timing. This being the case, I want to eliminate all codes (but the AC) so that I can ensure I have a minimum number of variables when I diagnose the idle. Comparing the level of effort of diagnosing a small vacuum leak to that of plugging my harness into a new PCM and possibly ICM, I'll take the second choice and eliminate those before I go tearing into my engine again.

I don't want this to be me denying a vacuum leak as a possibility, but I do want to track down these error codes and fix them first because I believe they may be playing a significant role in how the engine is running.

I also believe that the intermittent cam signal is related to the EST line not toggling, both of which could be linked to the PCM. I guess I'll find out when I get the new PCM in tomorrow. I will update then.

Well, I got my new PCM in today and I swapped it out, all my codes are gone and it now only fluctuated by about 75 RPMs at idle. I may have to let it run for a good 20 minutes or so to let everything settle in, but looks like I'm back on track.

On a side-note, I got into fixing my contaminated brakes and just thought I'd post a picture of my master cylinder resivoir. This is brand new brake fluid. I bought 4 rebuilt calipers that should be here next week sometime, and I've already installed my new master cylinder. Also, if you ever have this issue, be sure you flush your brake lines with brake clean or alcohol (kills any contamination) and then make sure you push air through to evaporate them because you dont' want to mix those with brake fluid. If you have contamination, you'll also need to change any rubber in the entire system as it will continue to spread if the rubber is not changed.

[This message has been edited by grsychckn (edited 09-15-2007).]

Finally got my fuel leak fixed and got my brakes fixed. I hate the 88 calipers because no matter if I get new ones rebuilt the bleeder screws don't make an air-tight fit. I pulled it out today into the driveway so I could turn it around in the garage. This is the first time the car has been outside in over a year. Once I can get the car legal to drive on the road again, I'll start working on the new paint job (previous owner got a cheap job done, as you can tell).

have you sneaked it out on the road yet?

quote Originally posted by darkhorizon: have you sneaked it out on the road yet?

Not yet, but soon - I should be able to sneak it out on Tuesday. I've got to get my tailight lenses installed and cleaned up so I can have brake lights - otherwise, I would have done it today. I'll make a video when I do. =]

this might be a dumb question but wheres your oil fill cap ?

Just stopping by to see how your build is going. And from what I have seen I would say that it is going very well, can't wait to see the video of it on the street. As for my swap I still haven't really posted anything but its coming along. I ran into a little bit of a problem with installing my coolant lines, I basically had to drop my entire subframe but no big deal. I go on leave tomorrow and my car is still on the lift. But before I leave the engine should be in the car with everything hooked up. But I will keep you up on the progress.

quote Originally posted by Black86gtFastback: this might be a dumb question but wheres your oil fill cap ?

My oil fill is the valve cover breather. It makes it a bit more difficult to get to, but it won't be too hard. I just have to pull the breather off and then get a good adjustable funnel.

Nhesto - sounds good, let me know if you need anything. I hope my measurements weren't the problem with your coolant lines.

your measurements were perfect, the coolant lines that gave me the problem are the ones that run up and down the sides of the car, like i said i had to drop the entire subframe in order to put the driver's side on, i do have a question for you......................how many temperature sensors do you have, where are they, and are they fiero or 3800. right now i have one and it is right below my thermostat housing it is fiero and thats it. what i am trying to figure out is how many i am supposed to have and also on your harness is there do you have a coolant fan plug and if so where is it connected at?

quote Originally posted by nhesto: your measurements were perfect, the coolant lines that gave me the problem are the ones that run up and down the sides of the car, like i said i had to drop the entire subframe in order to put the driver's side on, i do have a question for you......................how many temperature sensors do you have, where are they, and are they fiero or 3800. right now i have one and it is right below my thermostat housing it is fiero and thats it. what i am trying to figure out is how many i am supposed to have and also on your harness is there do you have a coolant fan plug and if so where is it connected at?

I have one temp sensor, the one just below the t-stat housing. My temp gauge in the dash isn't working because I think I need to wire that up seperately. I am using the 3-pin 3800 temp sensor. I'll have to check tomorrow and see what needs to be done to get it working. I did try to drive it tonight around the block, but the stupid brakes are still messed up. Vibrating like crazy and I think it's a clearance issue with the outer pads and the rotor. I'm getting frustrated with these things...but I'll get it done.

the temp sensor is a 3 wire, the green wire that goes nowhere in the stock harness, goes to the dash, and the signal/ground wires go to the pcm.

quote Originally posted by darkhorizon: the temp sensor is a 3 wire, the green wire that goes nowhere in the stock harness, goes to the dash, and the signal/ground wires go to the pcm.

Thanks, I'd give you a +, but already gave one!

[This message has been edited by grsychckn (edited 09-26-2007).]

O I could care less about rating anymore.

if I wanted a fancy good looking bar, I wouldnt argue with archie on some of his statements anymore.

Ok, got everything running well I think. I found that my ICM wiring harness got the loom melted because it rested up against the exhaust manifold on the firewall side. After I fixed that and re-bled my brakes, then my clutch again, I took it out on a short drive to figure out what the metal-on-metal sound was. I found it, check out the picture below. It appears as if my brake upgrade doesn't have enough clearance with the lower control arm as it has ground down the tip of the CA. I'm trying to figure out what to do with it now...

weird, I didnt know that was an issue with vette brakes.

Should be an easy fix, let us know how everything else is when you get it going. Remember not to do anything to fancy in first gear launching it, that trans will return abuse back in the form of breaking.

It appears as if it's an issue with Rodney's lowering ball joints. As the suspension travels, the lower CA sometimes moves towards the rotor - thus causing my problem. I'm going to try to cut off, grind down, or hammer in the tip of the CA so I have enough clearance that the rotor doesn't make contact. I may cut out a section of the tip of the CA then weld in a support - worst case. Hopefully I'll be able to get this done tonight so I can actually drive it down the road.

Alright, I got my brakes fixed. I had to "mold" the lower CA with a hammer some, but I got the clearance I need to keep my rotors from rubbing. Here's a video my roommate took while he was in the car (warning - he sticks the camera outside the window at one point and it gets loud). My speedo is not working, but I am pretty sure it's wired up correctly. The one I installed was off of a Getrag I used for my core when I bought my rebuilt one, so I'm unsure if it was in working condition when I got it. I'll have to check that tonight maybe.

http://www.grsychckn.com/Fi...0SC/short_clip_1.avi





Edit: I can't really drive it anywhere yet, because I've got to get new plates since mine expired in May and I need an emissions and safety inspection for it to be legal again...

[This message has been edited by grsychckn (edited 10-08-2007).]

Well, I got my registration extended for 1 month, so I have until the end of November to get it inspected. In the meantime, I found it difficult to shift after driving it a few miles on Saturday. I measured the clutch throw, and I am only getting 1/2" out of the clutch, so I started thinking it could have been my push rod being too short. After looking at the the slave cylinder, I found that to not be the case and then I started looking at the master cylinder.



As you can see, the master cylinder is leaking from the firewall side and so I've ordered a new master and slave cylinder from the fiero store. I rebuilt my current slave cylinder and vacuum bled it several times, but I don't think I got it clean enough on the inside of the cylinder walls (rust, deposits still there) to keep air from traveling in. I'll rebuild the clutch system this weekend and give an update then.

jumping back in time here, but did you have to do any modifications to get your coil-overs to fit?

Old cars can be frustrating. Fix one thing, and 2 more problems pop up! You've done a great job!

quote Originally posted by Khaos88GT: jumping back in time here, but did you have to do any modifications to get your coil-overs to fit?

No, I didn't have to do any modifications to get them to fit. The guides I made work very well in keeping the springs aligned. The driver's side is pretty tight and I'm sure that over time it will scuff the spring somewhat, but not visibly.

Edit: Hit enter too quickly...

[This message has been edited by grsychckn (edited 10-27-2007).]

would you mind posting pics of your vacuum routing using the N* TB?
btw great job

[This message has been edited by Back On Holiday (edited 10-27-2007).]

quote Originally posted by Back On Holiday: would you mind posting pics of your vacuum routing using the N* TB? btw great job

Sure thing - I'll get some picts posted tomorrow.

Ok, here are some pictures I got tonight. They aren't great, but I think they'll do. From the N* TB vacuum port, I run a 3/8" vacuum hose down near my coil pack then tee it off, one 1/2" line for the brake booster and one 1/4" line for the EVAP system. I use the LIM vacuum port to run directly to the FPR.

N* TB vacuum port


(bad picture of vacuum hose running down to the coil pack)


Brass tee I bought from Home Depot


LIM vacuum port to the FPR

Thank you!

Ok, after breaking my braided hose on my driver's side front caliper - I got it fixed and have taken it to get the safety and emissions done. It failed the emissions test because it has no EGR or a closed PCV (valve cover breather). So I'll have to temporarily "fix" those problems I knew were going to be an issue (was hoping the guy wouldn't look too hard during the visual inspection).

Oh well, I decided to install Ms. Lori's GT quarter windows I've had for a long time because I can't afford a paint job this month and my fiance wants to use the fiero to drive away at the wedding. So I installed them and they are quite amazing - these were part of the 1st run of windows she made. I think I'll go ahead and buy an extra set when she makes the new ones so that I can have an extra set. The only complaint I have is that the passenger side was not "trimmed" down properly because there is a much larger gap on the passenger side than on the driver's side (see picts).

Not much new to update. I got passed on the emissions and safety inspections, also got new plates. I moved to Stafford and drove it down without a hitch. Along the way I had a V6 mustang riding my tail while I was passing someone, so I politely informed them that they didn't have too much (read: foot to floor, head into headrest). I will be getting married this Saturday (26th), so I'll be driving it to the wedding and back down after the honeymoon.

I got a quote from a guy here (www.ladykillerdesigns.com) on a paint job and I really want him to do it, but the move and wedding really have put a hurting on my finances so I'm going to have to wait until late spring or early summer. In the meantime I've still got to install the new door hinges, patch up the trunk cut, get the A/C installed, and finish other odds and ends.

On a side-note, when I'm at a stop and the motor is idling, it tries to drop the RPMs down to about 625, but as it drops it almost kills itself then revs back up to around 1000 RPMs. At first I thought this was the same vacuum leak problem I experienced after first getting the motor installed. I no longer think this is the problem, but perhaps that it is either a fuel delivery problem or perhaps even an electrical problem. Possibly related: I have noticed that when only the positive battery cable is connected (no battery ground), the trunk light comes on very dimly. I am thinking that either one of two things are possible: 1) My wiring harness has a short somewhere between + and -. But if this were the case, the limited amount of current draw would suggest that not to be true, because the wire itself would instantly burn/melt due to the high current supply of the battery until the connection was severed - no more trunk light. 2) The voltage drop between the positive battery terminal and the grounded chasis of the car allows for enough current to flow for the trunk bulb to light up dimly.

I need to track down the above problem, so any help is greatly appreciated.

my swap did that. have you scanned at all? it seems to only do it if my tps isn't showing 0% .39 and it will do it. also i raised my idle to about 875 to help combat the cam. i'm new to the 3800 but this is just stuff i noticed on mine.

Nice swap! I do have a question though. What kind/size/offset are the wheels and tires? Sexy!

Tommy

quote Originally posted by TommyT913: Nice swap! I do have a question though. What kind/size/offset are the wheels and tires? Sexy! Tommy

They are 18" 35mm offset HP Racing wheels. The front tires are 225/? (don't remember the ratio) and the backs are 245/?. I believe I posted the tire sizes on one of the previous pages where I posted pictures as well.

Holy crap, I've been reading this thread and have been really impressed at the work you've done, and then I come to find out that you live 20 minutes from me? That's awesome. Congratulations on getting married! Where did you get married at? I've been to a couple of weddings in Stafford, just have to remember what company hosted it. My fiero's up on jack stands at the moment and I'm about to perform round 1 of a college kids budget restoration! When I have it running solid, we'll have to meet up for some coffee and Fiero chat. Once again, good work.