i would love to post pics, but with my computer skills.... well anyway im fortunate to be able to access the internet...
jon

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I'm the original owner of a white ' 84 2M4 purchased Dec 10, 1983 from Pontiac. Always garaged, no rust, 4-wheel drifts are fun!

If you wanna try, The Fiero Domain makes it easy. What you have to do is make an account with the web site. They give you a certain amount of space on their server. It's pretty simple to add pictures to your album, then they give you codes and links to the pictures to put in your PFF posts. Hmmm, perhaps that doesn't sound simple. But I think it's simple. But I'm also 19, I've grown up w/ computers.

For everyone, about my resto, here's another Q:
I've been told the '84 shifters were shorter than later years, that they changed them to compensate for those wanting easy shifting. I'm changing my tranny to a 5spd and hence using a 5spd shifter, but I want the earlier short shifter. Sooo, why cant I simply put my current (4spd) arm into the 5 spd shifter assembly? I think this will work because The Fiero Store's short shifter assembly fits all years. Any tips are greatly appreciated. I'll also post this question in a separate thread.

-Michael

i could be wrong, but i dont think you have to replace your shifter when you change your tranny. i believe that any shifter will work with any 4 or 5 speed tranny, altho the pattern will not be the same as on the console.
jon

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I'm the original owner of a white ' 84 2M4 purchased Dec 10, 1983 from Pontiac. Always garaged, no rust, 4-wheel drifts are fun!

I'll look into it more, but I was told that I need to change it out. I know the reverse switch moves, but that hardly seems reason to change out the whole assmbly. It makes sense what you say. So I'll look into it.

-Michael

It’s taking a bit longer to get it all together because non-Fiero related things got in the way. But today I’m ready to weld in the rear frame pieces. Next step is doing it. But most of the job is done, and I can show you that part here.

I bought a 24 foot length of 2x3 14 gauge steel tubing. I didn't need nearly this much, but this was the smallest amount I could buy, and it wasn't bad. I bought it from King Architectural metals. They've got a warehouse in Baltimore, about an hour from me, so I was able to pick it up there.

I cut out all my old metal and measured the length of new tubing I would need. I cut these lengths from my new steel.



Here's a picture of my new frame rail. With a tiger saw [aka sawzall] I cut 4 slots in the tubes in places similar to how Rubyredfiero did. Unlike him, I only cut a slot out instead of a section. As you can see in the picture, I next hammered in one side of the slot so that when I bent the tube the hammered in side would slide into the bigger side. This is a bit hard to explain, but I think the picture explains it well. This makes it easier to adjust the angle of each bend when tack-welding it.

This picture shows this method better. This is the bend closest to the back of the car. I cut the flange you see to weld to the back-most section.


I rust-proofed all the seams with a cold-galvanizing compound, as seen in first pic. It's alledgedly at least as good as hot-galvanization.

Next I clamped the new rail to the car to form it to it's proper shape.

When in this position I tacked-welded it with my brother's Hobart Handler 125 mig welder. It's a small welder, but it worked wonderfully. Here's the tacked rail sitting on the work bench.


Here I cold-galvanized everywhere on the frame that will be blocked from further rust-proofing after welding on the new frame pieces:

Here's the freshly welded piece. You can see the Hobart welder on the floor.

Here's my father and I. We did this project together.


Then, I welded all the seams fully, cleaned up any glitches w/ an angle grinder, cleaned 'em up really well, and then cold-galvanized them. Here's them cold-galvanized, ready to install.

You're going to compress the coil springs with a hydraulic press & Tie them with NYLON??? Do you have alot of LIFE INSURANCE ?? theres a good reason they make spring compressors.

quote Originally posted by Lou6t4gto: You're going to compress the coil springs with a hydraulic press & Tie them with NYLON??? Do you have alot of LIFE INSURANCE ?? theres a good reason they make spring compressors.

Nylon is strong, but I wouldn't want to find out how strong. Spring compressors can be had for under $20 and work like a charm.

I got the Springs in. I ended up using nylon-wrapped steel cable. It worked like a charm. I tried two different types of spring compressors, and they wouldn't fit by the long bump stop on the front crossmember. I purposely overcompensated with the cable and used cable-clamps to secure them. It was good and safe. My stock 84 springs were darn long, and the compressors weren't compressing them enough to get on the car. Maybe a different one would of worked better, though. Both of mine compressed from the outside.

Though a slightly lesser matter, everything was freshly powdercoated. I didn't want to gouge it more than necessary.

Thanks

Michael

[This message has been edited by Fierology (edited 09-01-2008).]

I haven't written here in a LONG time. School gets in the way sometimes.

I'm trying to meet the 11:59 deadline for Fiero Store's sale today. I went in my garage, trying to think of something I need to buy to complete the restoration, and all I could think of were caliper rebuilds, body fasteners and overpriced upholstery items. I'm not getting Fiero Store's upholstery items. They're market price, but still way too expensive. I'll be reupholstering everything myself at earliest convenience. But, let's get her on the road first! I can drive w/o beautiful seats and crisp sun visors.

So what else do I need?
I've already bought most of my normal restoration parts, like radiator hoses and bushings; my suspension is pristine. What might I be overlooking? It's a terrible feeling when you go do a project, one necessary part is missing, and you have to wait a week for it to come.

I'll be updating this thread as soon as I can. I've done some projects since I last posted. I welded my rear frame rails. They're waiting some finishing welds. After doing the rocker steel replacement, I'll be Por-15'ing everything that needs painting. After that and some fiberglassing, EVERYTHING goes back into the empty car. Okay, I have to clean up the Duke first. But after that, I'll put it all together and in it goes!

Until later, blessings to all,

-Michael

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"A guy know's he's in love when he loses interest in his car for a few days." -Tim Allen

He who dies with the most toys... still dies.


Check out my restoration!

It was a while ago, but I'm posting some about my engine removal. It went smoothely, and it's nice for the car to move after being in the same place for over a year. It's refreshing.








FINALLY!

I have more pics, but this gives a general idea. I used a chain hoist bolted to an overhead I-beam. We supported the I-beam with a temporary column, so that it's extension of load wouldn't be to long... and no damage was done. Now I have two dollied engines on the garage floor, exciting.

Big thanks to my father, who helps me a lot with jobs such as these.

-Michael

I'm probably getting a pneumatic needle scaler to help clean up the rear end for paint. If you see this in time, any tips will be appreciated. I posted a scaler question here. It doesn't seem like many people here are aquainted with needle scalers. I'll post on how that goes, what I find, how it works, etc.

Ciao, for now,
-Michael

quote Originally posted by Fierology: Fortunately, I didn't have to compensate for the car's slope.

Why not?

I assumed I had to, but when I went to see how much, the angle of the car seemed just right. I didn't know how to check for it absolutely, but car seemed to be w/in a few degrees. As the caster recommendations have a range of acceptability, I just aimed for around the middle of the range. I hope it's aligned right. It seems right on. I'm thinking I wont know until I drive it.
Do you have any suggestions for me? This was the first time I'd done anything w/ caster.

-Michael

EDIT: typo

[This message has been edited by Fierology (edited 11-20-2008).]

well the 84 coupe is about 250lbs lighter than my 87 GT, so i think the 2.8/5spd should be pretty peppy in that thing. Good job on the resto so far.

quote Originally posted by kawana: well the 84 coupe is about 250lbs lighter than my 87 GT, so i think the 2.8/5spd should be pretty peppy in that thing. Good job on the resto so far.

Cool. I didn't know the '84 was lighter. Do you know what they did to make the later ones heavier?

-Michael

quote Originally posted by Fierology: Do you know what they did to make the later ones heavier?

One more gear and two more pistons?

[This message has been edited by Brocephus (edited 12-04-2008).]

But is that it? Later years also had the Duke. When they report the curb weight, do they refer to the heaviest model?

Fierolgy~Got to hand it to you, converting an '84 chassis to a 6cyl is the hardest swap there is. Earnie Luna did this one back in '86/'87 and I felt for him. He did it, but it is one hell of a swap. Pontiac didn't even envision a 6cyl in '84 thus NO consessions for your six (wires or chassis). You got your work cut out for you kid, good to see that it is a father/son project. The next one you try should be an electric powerd Fiero. Actually, a little easier than what you are doing now.

How are '84 and later model spaceframes different, besides the slightly different cradle?

Your restoration looks great. My Dad gave me my 86. When he did he said "welcome to the addiction!" WELCOME! Keep up the great work and keep up these updates. Lookin forward to it.

It was awesome. Just yesterday I ordered a Ram clutch kit and 1 rotor from TFS. I ordered about 3:00PM EST. The official last order processing hour is 2:00PM EST. I got home from classes today at about 3:45 and it was right on the floor. I got the cheapest shipping, UPS ground. It was amazing.
This coming week is Spring Break. I'll be getting lots done, and I'll try to get some good posts going on here.

Also, I've decided. The 2.5/Getrag combo will be going in for the time being.

-Michael

It took much longer than expected to clean my engine up (~2 days as opposed to 1/2 a day, oy!) But the important part is that nearly all the grease and grime is completely removed and some of the paint is gone too. This is the Duke, btw. I'll be doing a cold compression test tomorrow just to get the cylinder/cylinder ratios. I might as well also check my bearing clearances too. But I'm out of plastigauge. Last time we asked advanced if they carried any they said: "plasti...- huh...?" They had no idea what it was. They'd never heard of it. I think they were mostly ricers working there.

Tomorrow's plan:
- Clean up 5spd
- Perform cold compression test
- Prep rocker-repair areas to weld

Tomorrow's St. Joseph's Day, wish me luck!

-Michael

Yup, that didn't happen. Cold compression didn't work because both my starter motors don't work. One must be finnicky because I ran it before I boxed it 2 years ago. I'm planning to get a reman and just use one of mine for core. FYI: both motors pushed the gear out to engage the flywheel. One starter didn't turn at all. The other turned really slowly and unevenly, as if severely gummed. I only smelled the ozone from the arcing, but nothing else. I never held it on for more than 5 seconds. I didn't smell any burning.

I ended up taking off my oil pan and timing cover and tilting the valve cover (annoying egr) to inspect stuff. Everything looks pretty good. There was no gasket on the timing cover or oil pan, only rtv. To my surprise the '84 factory manual said nothing about a gasket. It directs that I only RTV. Also the rear (flywheel side) hemispherical sealing surface to the oil pan is only a cast (& not-machined) surface, which seems weird unless I'm only supposed to use RTV as sealant.

I'll post some pictures when I get the chance. Unfortunately I can't find my good camera at the moment.

Oh yeah, I never got to the rocker repairs yesterday, nor the tranny. But that's okay. I'll do some of that today.

until later,
-Michael

Awsome job so far, your gonna know every nut and bolt on your car intimately!!! You will definitely have some respect for it (and pride) when your done in contrast to many young people who dont respect their cars or themselves! Way to go!!!!!

quote Originally posted by SNAPPY829: Awsome job so far, your gonna know every nut and bolt on your car intimately!!! You will definitely have some respect for it (and pride) when your done in contrast to many young people who dont respect their cars or themselves! Way to go!!!!!

Yes I will! Thanks for the encouragement. Happy motoring. I'll post some updates soon.

-Michael

[This message has been edited by Fierology (edited 04-05-2009).]

I have posted no updates in a long time, mostly because I've been so busy. When I got a moment, hopefully Sunday, I'll post updates of what I've done in the past months. Engine should be going back in Friday, after the rebuild project is complete. It'll be driving in due time, soon.

-Michael

Hey now... where's the updates... I bookmarked this thing ya know...

[This message has been edited by carbon (edited 11-17-2009).]

I'm very glad to see the interest. Unfortunately I've been away at school since mid-august, so I haven't had any progress since. Just now I was working on a spreadsheet of all the details left to put her all together. I'll be returning home mid-December and plan on finishing it up before returning to school in January. I'll be jumping right into a 1000 mile trip down to Florida! I've got a lot of work before me, but I was planning on having it finished last August. 3 weeks really should be enough, God willing.

In response to your request, I'll be glad to post some updates with pictures I never got a chance to upload as soon as I get the opportunity. I know I won't have much downtime back home.

Thanks for the reply! I'm glad I saw it 'cause I haven't had much opportunity to come on with all the studying here.

Michael

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"A guy know's he's in love when he loses interest in his car for a few days." -Tim Allen

He who dies with the most toys... still dies.


Check out my restoration!

Good enough, I suppose School can be a bugger... man, I am coming up on 9 yrs from college graduation... sigh. Gettin' old.

Perhaps think of it not as old, but wiser in the ways of the gearhead. But let's see if I think the same when I too am nearing 9 years from graduation.

Well, haven't had the time of day yet to post the pictures and updates. I will at my earliest convenience. I'm greatly looking forward to getting back in the garage. I'm been away so long that my hands look once again like schoolboy hands, and this irks me.
Yea for grime
Yea for thick palms
Yea for scored and burnt thumbs

-Michael

I has been much too long.
I was home for spring break and got some work done, but it was not overly uplifting as I spent nearly an entire week not-fixing the clutch. But I think I've figured it out. I got this procedure from technet:

from the v8 archie web site:

Clutch bleeding prodedure
You can do it your way, But this method always works for me.
After checking to be sure there are no leaks in the Clutch Hydraulic system.
Complete ALL of the following steps before test driving the car:
1) Install a helper in the drivers seat to push in and let out the clutch pedal on command.
2) Remove the cover from the Master Cylinder reservoir.
3) Top off fluid in the reservoir.
4) During the course of this procedure DO NOT allow the "helper" to "pump" the pedal. The "helper" is to depress and release the pedal on command only, DO NOT PUMP THE PEDAL. (See theory below)
5) You will be opening and closing the bleed screw on the slave cylinder as instructed below. CAUTION: During this procedure protect your eyes from squirting brake fluid.
6) (Helper) Press clutch pedal in fully and hold.
7) (You) Open the bleed screw to allow fluid to escape.
8) (You) Close bleed screw.
9) (Helper) Release pedal completely
10) (You) Top off fluid in reservoir.
11) Repeat steps #6 thru #10 no less than 5 times before going to #12 below. NO PUMPING!
12) You have now bled the Master Cylinder and the hydraulic line. YOU ARE NOT DONE YET!!!!! We must now bleed the Slave cylinder. (This is what the manual doesn’t tell you)
13) With no further action to be done with the clutch pedal, you can no remove the "helper" from the drivers seat and have him (her/it) help you do the following.
14) After topping off the Master Cylinder, completely remove the bleed screw from the slave cylinder.
15) Have the "helper" stand at the ready with the bleed screw and the appropriate wrench for installing the bleed screw.
16) PROTECT YOUR EYES!
17) With the bleed screw removed. With both hands grab the push rod coming out of the slave cylinder and push it into the slave cylinder as far as it will go AND HOLD it in.
18) Your "helper" will now install and tighten the bleed screw while you hold the plunger in.
19) When bleed screw is tight release the rod and as it comes out guide it into the proper position on the clutch arm.
20) Top off the Reservoir and the job is complete.


I'm hoping following it will solve my problems. I had procedures from the manuals (haynes and factory,) but never this complete.

I'll be home mid-May, at which point I will finish up the clutch and put everything else back on, get it inspected and insured, and enjoy my Fiero at last.

Prayers, please, as I'll need them.
God bless America!
-Michael

quote Fierology:Trunk sides awaiting fiberglass

Do you have or need rear wheel well liners?


I may have a spare set for an 84.

[This message has been edited by 30+mpg (edited 05-02-2010).]

No, I have all four. But thanks.

Plastic rivets and metal screws, the flanged ones that use a 7mm socket.

great, thanks

Saw your work above on the suspension. Is your 84 gonna be like the 88 suspension?

------------------
84 Duke, Holley TBI, Manual Trans 4.10, CompuCam, White

No. It's actually all stock '84 suspension but for the Poly bushings. I just cleaned it all up and painted it. Now that it's on the ground it feels real stiff, even w/ stock parts.

-Michael