I actually attend my local community college, and there are pretty much zero classes involving anything with cars. I was thinking, because I lack a non-windy and sterile enviroment to paint, that maybe I will sand it down, buy some GM Paint (Torch Red!) and take it to a Maaco or something and have them do it plus some clear. I'd probably have them add some flex agent too, not sure if GM paint uses it as much today. They do the same thing I would do except they usually don't sand it as far as I know..
That guide coat looks like a very good idea. I'll have to look for that.
[This message has been edited by Samohtneas (edited 01-16-2009).]
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01:50 PM
86SEin93003 Member
Posts: 274 From: ventura,ca USA Registered: Feb 2005
everything you need comes when you order the paint minus the Respirator i paid no more the $120 for each of the paint kits. this is the tech sheet i used for AE paint.. http://www.tcpglobal.com/re...ocs/techsheet_ae.pdf
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06:51 PM
May 12th, 2009
DeLorean00 Member
Posts: 4251 From: Sacramento, CA / Reno, NV Registered: Aug 2005
Im glad to see this post. Me painting mostly steel cars. Having to deal with block sanding and skin coats to get the body pretty Not saying Im a body man or a painter. It takes me 5 weeks to get a car the way I want it. With the Feiro I can put my hammer,Dollies and welder away I guess I be learning to glass
Moved into my new (to me) House I need to biuld a grarge.. If it ever stops raining. I have my 442 Olds and Vair stored.
I used Nason paint and was very pleased. Believe my total cost was less than $350 with primer, base and clear. Including the respirator. Next one I do I'm not pulling all the panels. Make a nice job but is a lot of work.
One tip to add: most primers are available color tinted. Doing so makes coverage much easier if you changing color or priming the complete car. Your not limited to gary or oxide red anymore...
quick ? What about ventalation and flash hazards from the paint fumes when the compressor kicks on. should the compressor be outside and lighting, etc sealed to prevent fume buildup and the possibility for a flash fire, or set a high volume fan at the bottom of the garage door so it draws the air out and not worry about it?
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10:42 PM
PFF
System Bot
Nov 22nd, 2009
Marvin McInnis Member
Posts: 11599 From: ~ Kansas City, USA Registered: Apr 2002
What about ventalation and flash hazards from the paint fumes ....
If the solvent fume concentration gets high enough to be flammable, you shouldn't be breathing it. In fact, you should have stopped breathing it a long time ago. You do need to provide for positive ventilation for whatever you're using as a paint booth.
ok, sounds good. I work with fiberglass alot and was just wondering if there was much difference for ventalation. Doesn't sound like it. Reading this thread has inspired me to redo mine, as well as my wife's fieros.
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07:23 AM
rogergarrison Member
Posts: 49601 From: A Western Caribbean Island/ Columbus, Ohio Registered: Apr 99
Ive been painting cars since 1964 with compressor in the garage where Im painting. Ive never had a problem obviously with a flash fire. In fact every shop I worked in including now has a natural gas fired furnace for heat. Like already said when the concentration is high enough to explode you would already be dead from asphysiation. Most shop fires have been caused by oily rags or stacks of paper in the corner. I actually know a guy that puts out his cig butts in a tub of laquer thinner he uses to clean his gun. Hes 65.
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07:40 AM
Feb 7th, 2010
wolf63 Member
Posts: 265 From: Brighton Colorado Registered: Aug 2007
ok, so yes its snowing again outside, but spring is only a couple of months away and i need to start gathering the change from the couch cushions to get ready to paint:-) I've read through this thread (great thread by the way) and have a few questions. i see info for repainting the same color and info for changing the color. what about both...at the same time:-) here's the thing, i have a red 84 notch back, the body is red but I've made a custom extractor hood (was gold) and i will need to replace the passenger door so who knows what color it will be. do i need to prime the whole car to make the color change parts match the original red parts when its done? can i just prime the color change parts? how long after the prime do i have to wait before i apply the color? secondly, i want to paint it black below the trim line and on the roof, how long after the red color coat do i have to wait to safely mask it off to add the black? if i understand, the order will be: wash, sand, wash, mask, prime, unmask, sand, wash, re-mask, color coat red, secondary mask (for black lower section), color coat (black), remove secondary mask, clear coat, final unmask, color sand, buff. is this right?
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04:47 PM
Jun 21st, 2010
exoticse Member
Posts: 8654 From: Orlando, Fl Registered: Jun 2003
Just a little tidbit for you home painters. Catalyzed 2 part paint and primers need to be used either way out in the country or in a closed building/booth. I just had a guy who painted his car at home in his garage stop by last week. He left the door open to allow ventilation and to keep cool (its been 90* here). He parked his own cars across the street in a parking lot for the day. His next door neighbors didnt know. Just cost him $500 to have his neighbors 2 newer cars wet sanded and buffed out to get all the baked on overspray removed. One was black and one dark blue. Uncatalyzed paint overspray dries before it goes 50 feet in the open air. Any that does stick on anything can be wiped off with reducer on a rag or even just cleaner polish. Make sure you also use a respirator mask.
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10:20 AM
Jul 21st, 2010
ConvictedRedneck Member
Posts: 1034 From: Easton, PA - USA Registered: Nov 2005
Bump for a primer question. Didn't want to start a new thread so hopefully I can get a response in here. I see mainly PPG epoxy primer recommended but between the cost and availability (can only seem to find it on one site), would it be a bad idea to go with this http://www.azautobodysupply.com/ma2kpoprsu541.html? It still looks like it's a good quality, catalyzed primer so I don't see there should be any problems. Plus, it looks to be about half the price of epoxy primer. Another factor is that the AZautobody site has everything else I wanted to get as far as prep so it'd be much more convenient to just order a primer from them. Thanks!
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09:20 AM
Mar 26th, 2011
DeLorean00 Member
Posts: 4251 From: Sacramento, CA / Reno, NV Registered: Aug 2005
I got my compressor from harbor freight last week. I'm planning on painting both of the cars I got in the garage in the near future. This thread is just what I needed to get inspired and to get me started..
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09:16 PM
Mar 27th, 2011
americasfuture2k Member
Posts: 7131 From: Edmond, Oklahoma Registered: Jan 2006
Painted a car this weekend and all went well. First paint job with a gun and not a rattle can.
One thing I noticed when putting down the base coat is that the over spray looked to have a stringy appearance in the air. Question - what causes this and how to prevent in the future?
Thanks ahead of time for any help answering this question
------------------ Red 1988 GT 5 speed Poly all around, Koni's & Lowered LQ1 powered
[This message has been edited by CC Rider (edited 03-05-2012).]
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12:16 PM
rogergarrison Member
Posts: 49601 From: A Western Caribbean Island/ Columbus, Ohio Registered: Apr 99
If it had a string appearance, it was not thinned correctly. It was too thick. It should be a very fine mist.
Most paint shops will only use the products they use everyday. I run into trouble using customer supplied stuff all the time, so I wont do it either
GM dont have any paint or make any. They buy it just like you and I do from manufacturers like Dupont, Ditzler, PPG, etc. GM for years back in the 70s mostly used R&M paint and thats what I bought to get the best matches.
[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 03-05-2012).]
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01:31 PM
CC Rider Member
Posts: 2037 From: Cameron Park, Ca Registered: May 2001
basecoat/ clearcoat systems are VERY specific with mix ratios...even more with the clear. You can get away with making the basecolor thinner, but not thicker. I generally mix mine 50/50 paint and reducer. Most colors still completely cover in 2 coats. Ive had a few, usualy reds that take 4-5 coats to cover.
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04:39 PM
Mar 31st, 2012
NoMoreRicers Member
Posts: 2192 From: Spokane, WA Registered: Mar 2009
has anyone tried the Dupli-colour Paint Shop paint? Very Inexpesive, ready to use out of the can - it's a laquer.... I think. Just curious.
I just finished spraying my 84 SE with the duplicolor paint shop candy system. I was very impressed with how well it worked especially for a pre-mix. I used my own lacquer primer and duplicolors candy base (silver), candy coat (orange), and clear. The entire job from prep to finish was around 8 hours and I was driving it that evening. It a perfect system for the DIY person any mistake and you can fix it and move on as there is no re-coat window. It is a lacquer so you need to spray light coats I used 4 quarts of each so $300 total. I normally spray Sherwin Williams 4th dimension and if I had it would have been cheaper. I wanted to try this system and again I'm impressed it is very user friendly no ratios to remember just strain it into your gun and squirt. I would post apic but I'm doing this from my iPhone and can't figure out how lmao smart phone I think not!
------------------ If it works take it apart and find out why
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08:59 AM
Apr 2nd, 2012
RumbleB Member
Posts: 341 From: The Great Lakes! Registered: Aug 2008
Great write up! I have this thread bookmarked, when I get to this point. Right now, I'm just trying to get the lines straight. I am removing the molding from my Fiero. Any idea on getting the crease to look sharp. The doors are the big problem area.
Thanks, Don Z.
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06:53 AM
jaredmurray88 Member
Posts: 1153 From: wellersburg pa Registered: Mar 2011
any tips on painting outside i do have a shed but its not too clean can make a mini paint booth with plastic. i have a steel coil bag the car would fit in. im going to be taking panels off and do it right just figured i would ask. using hvlp and kirker paint metal flake black
------------------ "Speed costs money. How fast do you wanna go?"
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07:51 AM
Apr 3rd, 2012
84candyorangeduke Member
Posts: 37 From: bangor, maine Registered: Mar 2012
Yes you can Paint it outside or build a plastic booth the secret is to try and get negative pressure as no dust is moving around. If you try it outside just pick a non windy day good luck
------------------ If it works take it apart and find out why
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06:52 AM
Apr 15th, 2012
CC Rider Member
Posts: 2037 From: Cameron Park, Ca Registered: May 2001
basecoat/ clearcoat systems are VERY specific with mix ratios...even more with the clear. You can get away with making the basecolor thinner, but not thicker. I generally mix mine 50/50 paint and reducer. Most colors still completely cover in 2 coats. Ive had a few, usualy reds that take 4-5 coats to cover.
Roger- when you said above 50/50 for the base coat, can you brake that done for this novice please. Is that the activator and the reducer combined to the base coat ratio?
We did a car yesterday and your advice has mad a big improvement in how the paint lays down. It was during the mix this question came to mind.
------------------ Red 1988 GT 5 speed Poly all around, Koni's & Lowered LQ1 powered
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11:12 AM
CC Rider Member
Posts: 2037 From: Cameron Park, Ca Registered: May 2001
basecoat/ clearcoat systems are VERY specific with mix ratios...even more with the clear. You can get away with making the basecolor thinner, but not thicker. I generally mix mine 50/50 paint and reducer. Most colors still completely cover in 2 coats. Ive had a few, usualy reds that take 4-5 coats to cover.
Roger- when you said above 50/50 for the base coat, can you brake that done for this novice please. Is that the activator and the reducer combined to the base coat ratio?
We did a car yesterday and your advice has mad a big improvement in how the paint lays down. It was during the mix this question came to mind.
------------------ Red 1988 GT 5 speed Poly all around, Koni's & Lowered LQ1 powered
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04:55 PM
Apr 16th, 2012
CC Rider Member
Posts: 2037 From: Cameron Park, Ca Registered: May 2001
