I also got my battery tray made. I used a 12X13 piece of galvanized 18gauge. Two cuts at each end and some bending and hammering at the vice. Still need to paint it.
Alright can't seem to post any more pics. PIP keeps asking for a username and password that I don't have so I'll try again later. Also have a couple pics of my new roller rockers that came in the mail today. Was reading the insulation instructions that came with them, and I know there is a lot of dicussion on 1/2 turn or 1 1/2 turns after zero lash, but comp cams says 1/2 turn. The majority cencus seems to be 1 1/2 turns as the manual says, I've researched this quit a bit. Could it be 1/2 turn specifically for the new rockers, or should I stick with 1 1/2. If anyone with roller rockers installed would like to let me know what they did that would help me decide.

Well got one pic.

[This message has been edited by fierofinder (edited 04-02-2011).]

Bump for my rocker question. Going to call summit tomorrow and get the ones I got sent back and I want to get a new set ordered right away so I can try out my DIS swap.
http://www.scorpioncheckout...hResults.asp?Cat=118
These only say chevy V6. Does anybody know if they will work? The narrow body self aligning ones say chevy V6 4.3.

Just noticed they say Vortec. the 4.3s were vortec. so I'm guessing it is just for that. I know some one here used some scorpion rockers though.

[This message has been edited by fierofinder (edited 04-03-2011).]

Finally got my roller rockers in today. I'll get back to work this weekend and I'll get some picks. Haven't gotten anything done lately, went on vacation and when I came back my mom had blown the head gasket in her van so I'm in the middle of rebuilding a chrysler 2.4 DOHC.

I see a lot of you doing this 7730 even seen it for the N* my ? is would it work any better then the ecu for the 3.4 dohc would there be a advantage to running it

finally an update. I finished wrapping all the wires and I finally got my roller rockers. There are some fitting issues. I'm in the middle of making a spacer out of 5/8 in plastic that is oil resistant and rated to 260 deg. Not sure if it is going to work, but the plastic was only $20 and a little work making them. If it doesnt work the metal fab shop said the could make a set of aluminum ones for me around $160. The other thing I thought about was taking camaro valve covers and having them cut and welded taller. I believe the camaro covers are steel instead of cast aluminum.
I also have most of the old battery tray removed.




I'm going to wrap my headers to keep the heat off the plastic as much as possible.

Re: the EGR

I live in an intermediate area, where we get testing every 2 years, but it's only an idle test, no treadmill action.
Since the car is only tested at idle, EGR is inactive during the test. As a result, I've noticed they don't test the N2O emissions. They just look to see that the EGR system appears intact.
In your case, since you only need to test when selling the car, and you don't plan to do that, it probably doesn't matter.

But for people who live in areas with a 2yr idle-only test, one way to deal with this would be to make the EGR look good, and disable it at the ECM ROM. I'm planning to do that myself on the stock ECM actually, simply because my EGR is failing and I'm not motivated to keep it.

Won't help anybody in Sacramento unfortunately, as they definitely get tested at speed.

A little update here. Turns out I don't need such a big spacer if any at all. I'm surprised how muchroom I gained after setting the valve lash. I'm thinking I'll just aply a layer of rtv in the valve cover and set the rubber gasket in that after it hardens a little to create a little space. The top of the rockers were rubbing the side of the cover a little so I filed down the corner and I filed down the inside corner as well so they werent so close together. I'll get some new picks soon.

Got everything hooked up today and no start. I have spark, at least at the one plug that I checked. There is compression. I don't think I'm getting fuel, or the spark is off somehow. When I turn the key on the fuel pump kicks on, put doesn't kick off. I think there is an issue with the wiring to the fuel pump or something.

Okay, so I checked each cylinder. There is spark, fuel, compression. No start. Seems like the timing is off. I checked the firing sequence of a 92 berreta and it is the same as my coil pack. Would I have spark if coil pack is bad or going out. Something with crank sensor maybe. I checked all my grounds everything is good there. No codes are present and engine light is working as its suppose to. I'm currently going through my wiring and seeing if something is wrong or came loose. The fuel pump still stays on with key on, and the only time it started to fire was when I had the #5 plug out checking spark.

quote Originally posted by fierofinder: Got my mem-cal back from sinister performance yesterday. Still working on the wiring. I'm stuck on inj A and B control. A is listed as green but that terminal is blue and B is green but listed as blue, so I'm not sure to ignore the color difference, or make sure blue goes to blue and green goes to green. Trying to drill out the spot welds on the battery tray so I can remove it, but is giving me a hard time. Today I plugged the cold start injector holes. I know there were some questions on what to use for this, so here is what I used. For the fuel rail I used a short bolt. 12mm with 1.25 pitch and used the original washer that has the rubber ring. .

Jsut a lil FYI - That cold start plug is great spot to put a fitting if you want to someday add a fuel pressure gauge. That was line I tapped into for the gauges on my two GTs,


you can see the gauge between the intake and the valve cover on my 87

Thats a good little piece of info. Especially because that is the next thing I need to check is my fuel pressure trying to diagnose it. I should just go ahead and install a permanent gauge.

Been following my service manual and found a wiring issue. I had two light green wires switched. Inj. A control and MAP wires were switched. After doing a fuel pressure check I'm only getting 15psi. Still have issue with relay staying on. Going to check fuel filter and possibly replace fuel pump. Also service manual tests say that relay needs to be replaced. Do you think having the inj. A control and MAP wire caused maybe the fuel pump and relay to go bad. Or maybe it damaged my ECM. I'll let you know how things go on my fuel delivery problem when I get to it.

I had the Inj wires mixed up, they weren't the same colors as the wiring chart(darth fiero's) I was following, One set was supposed to be Lt blue and the other green. Then you don't use the second wire in each set. Well both sets were both colors so I had an issue. Once it was fixed it had no problems. So I don't think it hurt anything.

What is the part number and manufacturer of the roller rockers you are using? or do you have a summit part number? It would be a very good idea to post that for others that may be looking for roller rockers that fit.

Duh, just realized.... you used http://www.scorpioncheckout...hResults.asp?Cat=118

but it says that you MUST use a guideplate, where did you get 3.4L pushrod guideplates? Without them the rockers will walk all over the place and fail prematurely.

[This message has been edited by timgray (edited 06-18-2011).]

I didn't use the ones in that link. I used the self aligning rockers from scorpion. 4.3 vortec center bolt down. On the self aligning ones the roller tip has little nipples on each side to keep it aligned on the valve. By using these you have to remove the guideplates. Also note they did fit and others have used the scorpion rockers as well, but it wasn't a perfect fit.

quote Originally posted by fierofinder: Wanted to add that I suspected my fuel pressure gauge of being bad so I tried a different one and it says I'm getting 38 to 40 psi. So my fuel pump may be okay. Going to replace relay and clean plugs. Something else I noticed is that my coolant gauge in the dash goes all the way up and pulsates when cranking. I'm going to check for a short in that circut.

There is one, it's there from the factory. It was a design flaw they never bothered to fix.

http://www.fierosails.com/tempgage.html on what is needed to fix it.

Okay, I'm just surprised I wouldn't have noticed that before. Very good article, I'll take the time to fix that.

So I have been plugging away at this for a couple days now following the service manual (worth every penny they cost), and everything seems to lead to faulty ECM. Replaced the fuel relay and no change. Checked relay circuit at ecm with the one relay wire removed and the ecm doesn't click off, and no voltage through wire so no short. Removed injector harness and checked it out and checked each injector, everything fine. Pulled fuel rail up and injectors out let a little fuel run down in the engine and it tried to fire. Definetely not getting fuel delivery. All injector tests check out except voltage to injector wires when cranking. I have spark so coil pack should be good. Going to check over things once more, but I think my ECM is bad.

quote All injector tests check out except voltage to injector wires when cranking.

I don't know the wiring scheme, but did you check continuity on the wiring from ECM to injectors?
Could be the ECM, I'd just be really cautious before reaching that conclusion. I think ECMs are often misdiagnosed.

Pull one of the injector connectors from each bank. Check to make sure you have +12v on the pink wire when the key is on. When cranking - with the injectors connected - on the other wire of the injector you should have about 4v less than what you read on the pink wire. That drop in voltage is the ECM grounding the injectors to fire them.

Is you ECM working? A few teltale indications -
1 Does the ECM activate the SES light with the key on engine off?
2 Does the ECM turn on the fuel pump relay for 2 seconds to prime the fuel rails?
3 When you bump the starter does the ECM turn on the fuel pump relay again for two seconds

ECM not working - Most likely source of the problem is a ECM reset connector left open

quote Originally posted by 02greens10: I had the Inj wires mixed up, they weren't the same colors as the wiring chart(darth fiero's) I was following, One set was supposed to be Lt blue and the other green. Then you don't use the second wire in each set. Well both sets were both colors so I had an issue. Once it was fixed it had no problems. So I don't think it hurt anything.

As 02greens10 said, each bank of injectors has 2 wires, the front has 2 and the back has 2. If you pinned the front bank twice (one wire comes in and is split), then half of your injectors won't fire. I also made this mistake when I did mine. If you split the electical tape far enough back you will find the splice. When you repinned the plugs you should have had 2 wires left over that are the same as the injector plugs. You could also put a VOM on it to make sure that it is right...

------------------
-Brian

My 87 GT Poly Suspension Upgrade (all pics) thread
Removing the roof panel

Yes I did follow the wires back to the splice to be sure. That is where my first mistake came in, because the MAP sensor does the same thing and is the same color as the light green inj. wires. This has been corrected and is good. Engine light is working correctly. Relay does not work correctly and there are no shorts to it, and I tried replacing it and nothing changed. Fuel pump always runs. I'll check the ECM reset connector when I get home to make sure everything is good there. I have 12v going to the injector wires, but no volts when cranking. I did the tests according to the service manual, butI will also check it like phonedawgs has described and see how that looks. Thank you guys, I feel confident that this will be resolved soon.

quote Originally posted by fierofinder: I have 12v going to the injector wires, but no volts when cranking.

This is a problem.

Which side of the injectors are you reading?

Are you reading voltage across the injectors or the wire to ground?

I am measuring voltage acrossed the injector terminal. This is how the service manual states to do it, but I have found several mistakes in it. When I get off work here soon as was going to try it from terminal to ground like you suggested.

So if the voltage on the pink side of the injectors is dropping to 8 volts your battery must be pretty dead right? You should have your battery on a battery charger.

With the battery properly charged the pink side should hang around 10 to 12 volts during key on engine off and during cranking. The other side of the injector will be pulse grounded by the ECM. Because your meter can't follow the voltage pulse to ground quick enough your meter should be reading about 4 volts lower than the pink side during cranking IF the ECM is trying to fire the injectors.

Because the voltage on both sides of the injectors is the same that means the ECM isn't firing the injectors.

Either the ECM is bad or the ECM isn't getting a firing signal from the ignition system.

So you said the fuel pump runs constantly. It that because the ECM has the fuel pump relay up all the time the key is on, or is it that you have it wired to run constantly?

So on BA11 of the ECM do you get +12v when the key is turned on during prime?

Do you have BD6 and BD7 connected to engine grounds?

Are you running DIS or a distributor?

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 06-20-2011).]

Yeah battery is starting to get low from all the tests. I'm going to throw it back on the charger. as far as the ignition module goes I believe everything is hooked up fine. Wiring for that was pretty straight forward. All the wires on my module were different colors than on the pinout from sinister performance, but the interchange from the vehicle I got it from said it was good to go so I just wired things up by terminal ignoring the wire color. Ryan agreed that it was fine. I do have spark, and it tries to fire when I get fuel in there. I'll will check all my connections I made to the control module. With the MAP and Inj wire switched means I was butting 12 volts to the map circuit in the ECM. If that circuit grounds out at all then I don't doubt something immediately fried the first time I tried starting it. Please any more thoughts are greatly appreciated before I plunge into a new ECM.

Yeah - btw yes I looked and saw the dis.

My vote is for a fried 7730. You should be able to get one for not too much I would expect. Things that run on 5v don't do well with 12v sent into them.

Ryan from Sinister Performance is saying the same thing, I've been emailing him everything I try. Local parts store has one $100 remanufactured with 1 year warranty. Might go that way for the warranty, and they have one in stock, but I have been keeping in eye on one on ebay for cheap ends tomorrow I think.

pm sent re 7730

Got an ECM cheap from the local junk yard. Best part is that I can return it within in five days for what ever reason, so if it doesnt solve my problems I can just take it back. Anyways I hook it up using the programmed memcal and now the fuel pump works correctly and it fires up, but not easily, and it dies immediately, backfires and my neighbor said it saw flames out the tailpipe. I checked for codes and have code 34 MAP sensor. I think the Map is bad from crossing wires before, but not sure if that would cause this.

Saw another coil pack on a 3.4 camaro when I was at the junkyard so decided to get the coil pack off of it. When I was pulling it, I noticed it was wired differently than the pin out from sinister performance. The three pin connector for the crank sensor had just the two wires braided setup, and they were going to terminals A and B. On the Pin out it says to connect the crank sensor to A and C and that B if present is shield wire. Waiting for Ryan to get back to me whether it should be A and B like the camaro was wired, or if that even makes a difference. I know he said it didnt matter if A and B were switched at the crank sensor, but this may make a difference.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 06-22-2011).]

OK, well that is how I have it wired now. It is the same control module used, so I'm not sure why the difference. The wiring on the camaro was surely stock. O n my other coil pack there were three wires and I didn't follow them to check to see which ones were which.