update:

I got a few goodies in and began to do some more work on the fiero this weekend.

I picked up a 2.5" flex pipe 4" long.
A 1 in 2 out high flow exhaust
O2 sensor
Temporairy Fuel lines
Drivers side coolant line from a safari/ Astro.


Were going to start with the coolant line. As others said, it fit preatty well although it is a little bit long and needs to be shortened at the bottom where it connects to the metal line.


Next on the agenda is the fuel lines. I'll have to get a picture later of the lower part to show you guys although I basically bent the bottom lines so they point from the passenger side to the drivers side and then kept the rubber lines on the lower end. I then connected 3/8(feed) and 5/16(drain) hard brake lines and bent them so they would come up out of the way from the exhaust. I still have to make some sort of mounts so they stay out of harms way although this should do until I get the car tuned and upgrade to stainless lines.


I picked up the high flow muffler at a local parts store. This is where all the mayhem begun. It is 2.5" inlet and outlets.


Since i picked up the exhaust and flex pipe I decided it was time to begin the down pipe. This involved cutting the slot out of the trunk. I had to unfortunatly cut out the cross brace in the trunk so I will have to reinforce it once I get to close it back up.


Other things that were in my way were the evap canister lines and the brake line that runs across the back of the engine bay. I cut it for now and will have to re route it above or below later on.


Once I did a rough cut out of the trunk I began on the downpipe. Here you can see the rough idea of the tacked together angles. It ended up being about 1/8" past the trunk wall so i think making a case 1-2" arround it will do just fine. I will also have to insulate it will heat shields.

The next tedious part was tacking together the pipe that connects the wastegate.... ugh what a nightmare in such tight spaces.


Hopefully I will have enough time tomorrow to tack together and maybe weld up most of the exhaust all the way to the tips.
I also plan on ordering the intercoller, blow off and charge piping so I can get this beast finished.
cheers

[This message has been edited by dutch13 (edited 08-27-2011).]

I finally got a look at my passenger side coolant hose. It's Goodyear part # 62126 which is an upper radiator hose from a 97 cavalier. Nice work.

~sam

Thanks. And thanks for the hose part #. I was just looking for that.

Does that turbo need an oil line pressure restrictor? My old T3 smoked when I did not use one.

That is one nice looking turbo. Good luck with the project.

Not that I heard of. I'll definitly look into it. Thanks.

So I havnt had a chance to do any work on my car. Unfortuanly my bosses and friends car have been acting up so I have been occupied with their cars. Although there are a few small things I can update on.

The other day I went to the store and picked up an adapter so that I could use the three pin oil sensor from a older z24.



I also got the flanges and flex pipe tacked up and started to put the manifold on although I had the wron angle so I had to take it back off.


The glow shift oil filter adapter came in. This is how I am going to run my feed line to my turbo as well as the oil pressure sensor for the autometer gauges. I ended up calling glowshift to get the right one although it was the 18mm option...

You could have used a "T" fitting just beneath the oil pressure sender for an oil feed for the turbo assuming you were going to use the stock tube. You may still want to consider it because oil temps get pretty hot with a turbo and you may want to install an oil cooler adaptor unless the one you have already has fittings for it. My oil temps run about 240-250 degrees without a cooler. If you keep oil temps around 180 it helps cool the engine internally as well as keeps part strength on the high side of normal. It also helps reduce oil coking of the turbine shaft bearings as a result of the cooler shut down temperature especially with an oil cooled turbo.

[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 09-06-2011).]

I thought about using a "T" although I was hoping to run the oil sensor, feed and the autometer oil sensor and I was starting to think that there would be alot of oil being drawn out of that little hole and it would possibly restrict the amount going to the turbo. Not saying it would for sure restrict or that its not a good idea, just figured 25$ wouldnt hurt. I'll definitly look into the oil coolers. I do have one put aside already, although the ones that are on summit and have a fan on them as well look fairly decent.

update..

So i managed to get the exhaust welded up this past weekend. Its going to need a fair bit of grinding. I'll get a picture of it welded and cleaned the next chance I get.
Here is a pic of it tacked.... oohhh the gaps.. shortcuts are never short. My lazyness in getting perfect cut angles for the bends and just taking it with gaps just left me with more welding time.


I still have some tweeking to do in regards to the tips and some clearance issues.


Last week my oil feed and drain lines also came in from summit racing. I have removed all the exhaust in order to make all the gaskets but as well to be able to lower the cradle. I am doing it for several reasons. It will first make it much easier to get the oil pan off but I also need to replace the flywheel bolts. I had thrown on the used bolts because my car was at work and I had to get it off the property.

Does anyone know the Part # for the Std Tranny Flywheel bolts that will be long enough and have the right threads for the 3400 crank???? Or just simply length and thread?



This past weekend I also stopped by fiero_fighter's house (off the Ottawa forum). He had three parts cars and I managed to pick off the brakes all arround. The rotors are all drilled and they havnt been used although they have obviliously been sitting on the car for quite a while. The calipers are all brand new as well but also show that they've been sitting. Nothing some elbow greese and paint wont fix. The front brakes were actually upgraded to grandam brakes. Saves me quite a bit of time and work. I also picked up a brand new e-brake line and SS flex lines. It was definitly worth the drive.

grand am caliper and rotor


Ofcourse my brake lines broke. I will have to repair them.


I also realized that I have some shaving to do on the lower caliper mount so the rotors arnt able to fit yet on the front. A little research will lead to a good explaination.



Well I suppose thats it for now. Its my birthday weekend so I doubt that I will get much done until next week.

[This message has been edited by dutch13 (edited 09-12-2011).]

I had to do some grinding when I put GA calipers on the race car. It wasn't too bad though.

I wouldn't put GA calipers on the front only. The stock brake bias is too far forward as it is and you'd make it ~25% worse by doing this.

My condolences on the brake line project. That's one of my least favorite chores.

~sam

quote Originally posted by dutch13: Does anyone know the Part # for the Std Tranny Flywheel bolts that will be long enough and have the right threads for the 3400 crank???? Or just simply length and thread?

i bought my 3400 flywheels bolts from rock auto..I looked them up for a 91 cavalier with a 3.1 and manual trans.

i used the bolts from a modular ford... cant member if it was the manual or auto bolts...

I used standard 88 Fiero flywheel and bolts but they did require a little spacing for clearance on the back side.

Thanks guys, Mike at Milzy Motorsports sold me a set of ARP bolts so i'll see how they are. Otherwise i'll look into those other options.

Any of the turbo guys have coolant cooled turbos or wastegate? I'm still unsure on where I should splice in my coolant lines for the wastegate. I was thinking off the heater hose from the thermostat and then running it back into the heater hose that returns arround back. Up for any suggestions though.

[This message has been edited by dutch13 (edited 09-13-2011).]

Hey all. So as I said earlier I didnt end up getting much done last weekend. I actually ended up helping my friend swaping a dohc engine into his sohc nissan 240sx.

The swap only took a couple hours on sat & sun although there are a few small parts missing.
Here is the engine being pulled.


And the new one installed.


So back to the fiero.
To begin it all off. I had to come up with a way to lift the car back up in order to swap a engine mount, tap oil pan and change out the flywheel bolts. I belive I mentioned it before but here are some pictures of the stand that I fabricated.

Basically all i made was a really low cost gantry crane. I used two 1tonn come-alongs to lift the car.

The tubes were 2x2 .125 and the plates were made from 1/4" flat bar.



Here is the car lifted. before I lifted i have the cradle resting on 4 stands and it was disconnected so that I would only lift the shell.


In the past I've read about people asking where to lift the car from so I decided to take some pictures of where I have been using for lifting points.

The dogbone mount

The second point was arround the frame although if yours is soft I wouldnt suggest it. Either way I went with a lifting strap as oppose to wraping the chain arround it.

Also make sure to look on the bottom side of the frame and ensure that your not pinching you brake line or clutch line.

Moving along. I swapped out the old lower engine mount for a new one. 16$ at a local parts store.


I also recived my high temp exhaust gaskets from wot-tech and the adapter plate to switch for the 3500 tb. If you are using the exhaust flanges you will end up needing these gaskets.

My base tune came in from Sinister performance.


So while I wait for the flywheel bolts, I'm taking advantage of the extra engine space to clean up some of the wires and fix up the exhaust.

I'm also waiting for heat wrap to come in from summit as well as a TurboXs type h-rfl blow off and a boost controler.
Other than suspension and cosmetics I think charge piping and a intercooler are about the only major parts missing.

[This message has been edited by dutch13 (edited 09-22-2011).]

Tell me more about the 3500 tb adapter. What's the benefit of it?

Sure. So basically as oppose to buying a 300$ larger port throttle body you can actually use the adapter plate to swap a 3400 throttle body (which correct me if im wrong but it is 56mm diam) with a 3500 tb which is 65mm diam. Once I get a second I will also be able to mount the adapter plate and mark the size difference on the intake manifold and port it to the 65mm.

I belive the sensors are the same although the 3500 uses 3 bolt to mount to the intake.

Unfortuanly the larger throttle body will make for a touchy peddal... or it should at least. But as far as what the total difference is, I'm unsure yet. Ofcourse it will flow better and with having large charge piping and forced induction you want to clear all restrictions.

I'll get a pic when I go out for a smoke.

wow i had no idea the 3500 had such a large throttle body. that would compliment my full port/polish job i have on my heads.. what year and model gm cars do these come on? sorry about all the questions

I thought the 3500 throttle body was drive by wire and the point of the adapter plate was to allow a 3400 throttle body (traditional throttle cable) to bolt on to the 3500 upper intake? There is also an adapter plate for the larger 3.5L short star throttle body, is that what you have?

quote Originally posted by KaijuSenso: I thought the 3500 throttle body was drive by wire and the point of the adapter plate was to allow a 3400 throttle body (traditional throttle cable) to bolt on to the 3500 upper intake? There is also an adapter plate for the larger 3.5L short star throttle body, is that what you have?

I think your correct here.I was just on wot techs site looking at the adapters and his pic looks like the olds 3.5 adapter

No problem, I'm always willing to answer any questions the best I can.

You are correct the throttle body is off a LX5 shortstar.

The applications;
1999–2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue
2001–2002 Oldsmobile Aurora

The link on wot-tech;
http://wot-tech.com/shop/gm...dapter/prod_141.html

quote Originally posted by dutch13: No problem, I'm always willing to answer any questions the best I can. You are correct the throttle body is off a LX5 shortstar. The applications; 1999–2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue 2001–2002 Oldsmobile Aurora The link on wot-tech; http://wot-tech.com/shop/gm...dapter/prod_141.html

OHHH There back in stock!! there were out for the longest while, nice, now to hitup a yard and see if i can find a shortstar TB..

Yeah def worth buying. Saves from buying the tce tb's. Although you can get larger than 65mm.

So today more goodies came in... I really gotta throw this together.

TurboXS Type H-RFL Blow off valve - 180$
TurboXS Standard Boost controler - 80$


edit better pic

[This message has been edited by dutch13 (edited 09-23-2011).]

For coolant to the turbo I spliced into the heater line and ran a hose over and back along the firewall. It adds a bit of clutter but works well.

So I picked up a few more things today.

KYB struts, poly cradle bushings.


Steering column. Mine dosnt have steering lock and a couple other parts are broken on it as well.


I also picked up the axels from what I belive had an 88 cradle. It have the longer (pass side) axel with the straight shaft on it.
This should make it easier to place the oil drain without haveing to worry about the axel hitting it when hitting a bump. I'll take a pic when I get the flywheel bolts and put everything back together.

Does anyone know if I will need my oil feed to be a restricted flange or just a regular size???

quote Originally posted by dutch13: Does anyone know if I will need my oil feed to be a restricted flange or just a regular size???

You should only consider a restrictor if you have a problem with smoke from excess oil flow, otherwise if it will run trouble free at full line pressure that's how you should run it.

So my computer has been broken cause i've left it on for the past 3 years although it randomly decided to work for me this weekend.

Here's an update;

The flywheel bolts arrived. In this picture you can also see the parts I picked up to run a T off the oil pressure sensor. I have decided to do so rather than using the oil filter adapter because I picked up a new adapter that will allow me to run my oil cooler feed and return as well it had a thermostat to allow oil into the cooler when it hits 180. May remove that part though.



Split tranny from engine for the last time!


I had forgotten to take a picture of the clutch in the past so here is one now;

Bully stg 3

I proceeded to paint the exhaust setup with high temp paint. Here is a pic of a couple parts after their first coat.


After they were done I used heat wrap that I baught off Summit Racing.

Here is a view of the manifolds installed


Then I ported the Intake manifold for the throttle body adapter


The next part was using the gantry crane to hold the engine up while I took off the oil pan to tap the drain line.


Here is a pic of the line installed although it is hard to get a good shot.... I already cleaned up and didnt want to go underneath.


Afterwards I installed the new struts and repaired the brakelines.


The next part was to lengthen a couple wires and get everything pluged in.


Now I'm waiting on a couple parts to come in.
-the new lines and an adapters for the oil cooler
-the an adapter for the oil feed line 90degree bend not straight (hits decklid)

I also still need to order the tubing and couplers for the charge piping.

Your turbine housing appears to be a T4. At .82 you probably will not hit 7 psi until about 3200 rpm. I'm running a .81 on the 3.9L and although I haven't performed a deliberate test of boost onset, my datalogs show 7 psi being reached at about 3000 rpm and I have a few points more compression than you do. If you're planning on a top end performer it should be fine. I favor 0-60 so I don't want anymore turbine space than necessary. It may sound trivial but it can put a dent in off line and low speed performance if your driving focus will be mainly short bursts of acceleration.

Yeah I was curious as to what rpm range it would spool up at and a little worried that it would be too late although I figured that the t61 were not all that expensive so I could pick another one up or a good price and still get rid of this one easily. As well everything would be already ready for the turbo so it would just be a matter of swaping them.

Thanks for the insight.

quote Originally posted by dutch13: Yeah I was curious as to what rpm range it would spool up at and a little worried that it would be too late although I figured that the t61 were not all that expensive so I could pick another one up or a good price and still get rid of this one easily. As well everything would be already ready for the turbo so it would just be a matter of swaping them. Thanks for the insight.

You would only need to pick up a second turbine housing to fix the situation if necessary, they're interchangeable. A .~59 would probably be just right since you haven't upgraded to a higher performing camshaft. Not sure what the ratio of the difference is but the T4 series is larger than the T3 and in a T3 size a turbine housing of around 1.xx would be more appropriate.

Thats true. And it is a t3 housing. The reason I am waiting to see though is because I do have a upgraded cam installed. I guess time will tell. If it dosnt spool fast enough that's definitly the route i'll take.

Part came in.

Oil cooler adapters and lines.



Hoping to get the wiring and exhaust hangers all figured out by this weekend.

quote Originally posted by dutch13: Thats true. And it is a t3 housing. The reason I am waiting to see though is because I do have a upgraded cam installed. I guess time will tell. If it dosnt spool fast enough that's definitly the route i'll take.

In that case it'll be fine except for when you try to hit 20 + psi. The .63 turbine was an upgrade for the Ford Mustang turbo and it was just enough. .82 in a T3 will be fine but not likely for anything more than about 15 psi before your exhaust back pressure starts to climb especially with a cam upgrade. You'll likely be going larger as you don't want the engine to have an excessive back pressure to boost ratio.

Thats sounds much better I'd much rather have to go bigger than smaller. Thanks Joe

So I got antsy and made the lines for the oil cooler. All seems to be ok. I will have to make some brackets this weekend but the pictures are an attempt to show how it looks.... I couldnt get a good angle off my back.




This engine bay is definitly getting Extremely tight and an intercooler with charge piping is defninitly going to be an interesting challange.

I'm currently looking for one that will fit although I dont want to go small but fitment is limited. I may very well have to settle for a smaller intercooler for now and put a air to water intercooler in later to make up for the size.

Hey all... so here is my next problem. I have everything wired up and for some reason the starter wont turn over... no click... nothing. I even swaped it out for another starter I had. Any ideas.

Also. for the guys with 3400 turbos, what do you do with the hole on the top of the intake manifold thats right before the tb?