On my 3400 that hole goes to the valve cover and also the charcoal canister. In your application (turbo) you'll want to tap and plug it. I used 3/8" pipe thread to plug the hole on the bottom after I cut off the EGR tube. It's probably about the right size. You could either add breathers or move these accessories to the intake tube before the turbo.
Be sure to clamp your vacuum hose from the intake to the check valve on the firewall for the brake booster. Lately I've been hitting as high as about 15 psi and had the unfortunate experience of blowing it off the barb at the valve. It wasn't until I noticed the car pushing along as if the cruise control was on eventhough I hadn't set it, that something was wrong. Then I applied the brakes and realized immediately there was a problem. Fortunately I had plenty of time to stop before reaching the car ahead of me.
thanks guys. It seems like the hole is bigger than a 3/8 npt. The 1/2" npt is only 1/16 bigger so im going to drill it out and insert either a plug or an adapter. female 1/2 npt to female 1/8npt. This will be a perfect spot for my water-methonal injection.
I'll definitly be putting a gear clamp on that hose! thx.
So i finished ordering all of the intercooler parts and the water/air intercooler. Before I get everyting in, I figured I'd ask wether anyone knew if the IAT gets put in before the turbo(non pressurized) or after the intercooler(pressurised). And if its after the intercooler what have people been using to clanp then in place?
So i finished ordering all of the intercooler parts and the water/air intercooler. Before I get everyting in, I figured I'd ask wether anyone knew if the IAT gets put in before the turbo(non pressurized) or after the intercooler(pressurised). And if its after the intercooler what have people been using to clanp then in place?
Put your IAT sensor as close to the throttle body as you can for temp measurements within realistic range of the actual air temps going into the motor. For example, if you place it before the turbo, you'll never measure the extremes the temps can reach going into the engine if for instance you didn't have an intercooler.
More importantly, some boosted code like code59/58 has an intake air temp vs. spark timing table that needs to read accurate for the purpose of removing timing when necessary in the face of high intake air temps and visa versa for low air temps.
O2 sensor bungs have the appropriate thread pattern for welding in place at the desired location.
[This message has been edited by Joseph Upson (edited 10-28-2011).]
Sounds good. I had a feeling that I would have to have it reading the temp right before engine. How do you clamp them in? silicone with the port on it?
Managed to cut a bung off an existing exhaust system and clean it then weld it back on my exhaust... buying one probably would have saved me alot of time...
Sounds good. I had a feeling that I would have to have it reading the temp right before engine. How do you clamp them in? silicone with the port on it?
Managed to cut a bung off an existing exhaust system and clean it then weld it back on my exhaust... buying one probably would have saved me alot of time...
You should be able to get them pretty cheap on ebay, I ordered a batch some time ago because I new I'd be experimenting and changing things around. Nothing is clamped in, I weld a bung to the inlet pipe.
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08:01 PM
Will Member
Posts: 14255 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
As cold as I was, I managed to get it done. For futur reference when your taking apart an engine take pictures so that its easier to put together. Or do as I did and got to a junk yard to double check things that you are not 100% on.
What clearances did you measure cold? I'm assuming since you're from the frozen north that "cold" means -10, eh?
[This message has been edited by Will (edited 10-28-2011).]
Ok, good. Thermal expansion sneaks up on a LOT of people...
If you bolted the heads on in the cold, they will expand a lot more to get to operating termperature than the head bolts/studs and will increase clamp load on the head gaskets... which is good in a turbo engine. @$$uming that they don't overstretch the head bolts or fail the block threads.
Thanks I'll definitly have to consider all that I did in the shed. If i remember correctly I belive I had to take the heads off and re-install them when I was inside in a heated garage.
On a side note..... Huuuuggee manifold leak cause I didnt tighten the bolts enough but I promised I'd get the car out of the garage this weekend so I managed to get everything together and fired her up. The mms egr delete came in today.. Just in time!
If I can figure out how to post a video of the noisy b>>ch I will.
- SS bov adapter - Coolant line brackets - Front windshield rubber - Trunk seal - New emblum - Fiero side scoop
I'm hoping that the intercooler parts will be in by the end of the week... Snow storm is coming and I've been forced to put the car outside. It would also give me the motivation to take the manifold off that is leaking and straighten the flange.(I was hoping the thicker gaskets would solve it but none the less its nothing a torch and re-welding can't fix).
I was also doing soem research and making a bunch of calls looking for a silicone T-pipe that has a 1/2" "T" for the IAT sensor although it dosnt seem to be possible unless I'm willing to pay 300$ for someone to make the dies for just the one piece. Edit: I shouldnt say that the idea isnt possible. Vibrant did offer one with a 10mm T which is just a bit tight although apparently it isn't reinforced silicone which may not be able to handle 20 psi.
My other option was to weld a bung and run a barb with a hose where I can then clamp it in. There must be a better way?!?! Anyone have a pic of what they are doing?
I've also been having troubles transfering the video onto my comp. I'll try and work some magic.
[This message has been edited by dutch13 (edited 11-01-2011).]
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05:35 PM
Will Member
Posts: 14255 From: Where you least expect me Registered: Jun 2000
All the parts came in. I keep getting error: 12003-FTP upload file While using PIP and it wont allow me to post pictures. I'll try amd get it reinstalled.
SOo far the parts all look great. I also placed an order for some k&n filters. 1 3"x5"x8" and 2 3/8"x1"x2" (breathers)
Other than the fact that the weather isnt helping, I should have everything else that I need to get the car road worthy.... after some tuning ofcourse.
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08:13 PM
Nov 7th, 2011
Fierobsessed Member
Posts: 4782 From: Las Vegas, NV Registered: Dec 2001
Fiero Store parts along with the rear trunk seal which I did not take a picture of.
Stainless Steel blow off valve adapter.. Didnt feel like fighting with aluminum stick welding and steel was not a good enough option
So next I suppose is the IAT sensors. They are both the same connectors. If your looking for the threaded one. Mine is made by Standard and the part is AX1
Charge piping clamps, Bosch pump and 2 remote rad fillers. I needed one for the intercooler set up but for the 20$ I figured I'd grab another one cause it might come in handy splicing it into a heater hose.
20feet of rad hose and a universal aluminum charge piping kit. Its way too much piping although it was only 75$ and buying the pipes seperatly would cost more.
Water to air intercooler
Silicone reducers bends straights. Rad for the intercooler and a reversable fan.
8inch K&N filter and breather filters.
So I'm hoping to get another good weekend to start putting the rest of it together... Its all pretty easy from here. I think the only part thats going to give me a headache is straightening the manifold and not because its going to be hard but jsut cause its on there now and I dont want to touch it.
Unfortunatly morning are starting to get cold and its dark outside by time I get home so all i've got before winter hits is weekends.
As the weekend began I straightened out the bent flange from the rear exhaust manifold that was causing the large exhaust leak. I should have taken a before picture but none the less here is a after picture and it worked great.
I decided to use the bov adapter as a perfect place to install the IAT sensor. I wasnt to keen on having a large stick weld on it so I had prepared the piece and got a friend to weld the bung on. By the way, you can purchase these 3/8 NPT bungs online although they are roughly 15$ if your going stainless as I did. As oppose to buying it online I called local plumbing stores and although the only store that had them locally required an account to buy them, when I got past that issue it was only 2$. Worth the hastle. Its a double ended female 3/8npt for sprinklers or etc. You need to cut the piece in half.
So I also installed the throttle cable this weekend. I ended up sticking with the shortstar set up because that was the throttle body I am using. The length and all was fine although I did have to cut away a piece of the plate on the bottom of the bracket in order for some of my hoses to fit.
In order to attach the stock throttle line to the new tb I used a metal file and slowly filed away a slot for the cable to sit so I could throw a bolt threw.
I also began the charge piping. I have the side that goes from tb to intercooler escentially done. I just need to wait until tomorrow when I fabricate a mount for the intercooler to be sure about the rest of the measurments. Other than that I am missing one 3" to 3" 90degree bend and a couple tclamps.
One problem that I am having is the car wont idle. I belive it is way too much gas but I'm not totally sure and having really looked into it yet.
Some more progress. Trying to get it all together for this weekend so I can haul it over to a tuning shop. One more charge piping to route... the hardest one, and rad to install. As well as fill rad fluids and tranny fluid.
So yesturday I began fabrication the intercooler mount and oil cooler mount. Im going to get arround to installing the oil cooler after... either way here is the intercooler mount.
Intercooler installed. The oil cooler will be going beside it. I belive there are pics above.
I finished the throttle body to intercooler piping and the turbo to filter. Now all that is lfet is turbo to intercooler but im running out of space so its really time to get creative now.
The charge piping is finally complete. I am short one clamp so I will have it ordered tomorrow and will pick it on for friday. This weekend I'll get going on the rad and wiring the pump.
I'll do more research when I get a second but either way;
-Reseting the timing from the 7730 ecm -Tach dosnt work?(I read about the tach filter?!?) -Where to wire the intercooler "Rad pump" -How much fluid do the 4sp tranny take exactly? (2.8L?)
-Car will start perfectly fine but after 5seconds it shuts off unless I lift the gas a little bit. Would this possibly just be way too much gas going into the engine? Or just timing?!?
She finally drove! For the first time in 10 years my fiero moved with its own power. I'll post a small video when I get it although it was really dark so i'll have to take a better one in the daytime.
When I loaded the video its horribly dark so I'll take one this weekend. Thanks, I havn't resolved the issue yet. I'm assuming one of two things, either too much fuel... or clogged fuel filter although before I go on I want to swap out the filter. Its something I should have done a long time ago.
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09:03 PM
Nov 22nd, 2011
KaijuSenso Member
Posts: 911 From: Westland, MI Registered: Jan 2007
I don't know about using the 7730 for the 3400 but do you have an Idle Air Control? My car didn't want to run while it learned idle, had to keep the throttle just barely open and it wound hunt for a while. This is with OBD2 though. For the tach I just ran the purple and yellow wires straight from my 4 speed's VSS to the Fiero C203 connector and also spliced it to the PCM (again OBD2 so not sure the differences for your 7730) and my tach works just fine.
Originally posted by dutch13: SO a couple problems i've encountered.
I'll do more research when I get a second but either way;
-Reseting the timing from the 7730 ecm -Tach dosnt work?(I read about the tach filter?!?) -Where to wire the intercooler "Rad pump" -How much fluid do the 4sp tranny take exactly? (2.8L?)
-Car will start perfectly fine but after 5seconds it shuts off unless I lift the gas a little bit. Would this possibly just be way too much gas going into the engine? Or just timing?!?
Thanks
Need more specifics on exactly what your engine management is (code mask to be specific), Turbo Grand Prix, Code59? Timing is fixed and only adjustable through the chip. If you have datalog capability observing sensors in the data feed, particularly O2 volts should tell you whether the motor is leaning out or, or richening up before stalling. High O2 volts = rich, low = lean.
If you're using one of the two code masks mentioned above I'd recommend using the ECM to control boost pressure as opposed to manual control.
I'm looking forward to seeing the results but in the mean time I'll share some concerns I have as a result of my own experience, as I didn't see your cam specs before commenting earlier on the turbine housing size.
I believe with that much cam for a 3400 your compression ratio should be higher given what that motor's stock 9.5:1 compression has been proven to handle under boost with its stock camshaft and pistons.
Your 8.5:1 plus what that cam is going to bleed off of cylinder pressure at low rpm along with the .81 T4 turbine housing may result in sluggish offline performance. With some exceptions the trend is to increase duration along with compression and visa-versa. I submitted detailed specs for my built motor (which was under cammed) to Crower for a recommendation and they suggested 220/230 and that's for a 4.2L, 11.5:1 compression street motor. I ran it with a 216/213 grind and .81 turbine housing and it was unbelievable off the line.
Just a heads up.
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06:30 AM
hookdonspeed Member
Posts: 7980 From: baltimore, md Registered: May 2008
Your 8.5:1 plus what that cam is going to bleed off of cylinder pressure at low rpm along with the .81 T4 turbine housing may result in sluggish offline performance. With some exceptions the trend is to increase duration along with compression and visa-versa. I submitted detailed specs for my built motor (which was under cammed) to Crower for a recommendation and they suggested 220/230 and that's for a 4.2L, 11.5:1 compression street motor. I ran it with a 216/213 grind and .81 turbine housing and it was unbelievable off the line.
I'll definitly keep it into consideration. For the meanwhile I'll see how she runs and maybe move on to a different turbine housing and cam.
Its the tgp code mask. Unfortunatly I had to park the car last weekend. I was hoping to get the rad installed and then fill the both...... in order to get the car going that's about all I'm missing. If I can get it put back into the garage for a weekend maybe I'll be able to get it thrown together and then send it out to get tuned or start data logging.
Hah yeah it definitly scared the crap out of me. First time I've driven in anything without a stock clutch and it definitly threw me back into my seat.
So I finished installing the rad hoses and the rad itself. I also replaced the broken axel seal. You might be able to see the dent in the picture.
Other than that I tried to replace the steering column although the new one that i got has a broken turn signal. It seem almost impossible to replace, but i'll keep at it.
The fuel filter also did not fix the idle. Must be too much gas.
Axel seal. Very annoying to change these!
Top view of where the second rad sits. When the hood is on, it is almost impossible to fill this rad therefor I put the remote fill beside the pump.
Here is a front view. I need to do a bit of cutting to the air dam to be able to put it back on.
Anyone have any ideas for why the car wont idle? Or anythings I should try?
So far I think its just gas because the smokey exhaust.
It starts great and drives great but just wont idle. When it starts it takes a couple seconds and then bogs out right away like its choked.
Disable closed loop by setting the active temp to near 300 degrees. That will prevent hunting during idle as the ecm tries to correct, otherwise it appears your base tune at idle is too rich. You need a wideband O2 for this kind of diagnosing.
As I was sitting back thinking about what else it could be, it came to me. I never put more washers into the blow off valve so it should be giving a vacume leak right now. I realize this is not why the car isnt idleing at all but its definitly one thing that i'll have to do.
Didnt have time to do a better daytime one.
