The evap purge solenoid goes inline between a constant vacuum source (between the supercharger and the throttle body) and the evap canister. The brake booster vacuum also goes on vacuum side.

The fuel pressure regulator needs to be on the boost side (LIM) of the supercharger, along with the MAP.

I might be stating this a second time but make sure both your CTS and your oil pressure sender connectors are 3 wire connectors. Middle pin of each goes to the gauge. Also if either the CTS or the oil pressure sending unit are not 3 pin devices they will have to be replaced.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 07-08-2011).]

I have a three wire CTS. I have a two wire oil pressure switch on the oil filter adapter. What would be the P/N of the correct one?

Look up a replacement for an 88 Fiero 2.8 and that's it.

I have the old 2.8 that came out of the car, 86GT. Ill just use that one. Thanks!

Edit; I checked the P/N 86 vs 88, they are different, I will look up the specs to see if it will work. They are both 3 pin. The thread sizes are all the same for all three engines. Yup, Rock Auto shows the 86 one will work on the 88 engine.

88 fiero
Thread Size 1/4-18 NPTF Dryseal
Switch opens 2-7 PSI
80 PSI - 60-96 Ohms
40 PSI - 48-70 Ohms
8 PSI - 20-35 Ohms
Less than 2 PSI - 5 Ohms max

fits
BUICK (1987 - 1995)
CADILLAC (1998 - 2000)
CHEVROLET (1988 - 2001)
GMC (1988 - 2001)
ISUZU (1996 - 1998)
OLDSMOBILE (1987 - 1999)
PONTIAC (1987 - 1995)

Re-edit; The 86 one is too big for the low mount alternator but it will clear the axle. I guess i need to buy one, LKQ here I come.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-09-2011).]

Found one at LKQ from an 88 4 cyl fiero. $12.00 with a passenger side mirror glass only and 2 windshield washer squirters.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-09-2011).]

Got this much done this weekend.

It looks like the AC Pressure Sensor. If so it connects gray to +5v, black to sensor ground and the red/black wire goes to the PCM.

The boost bypass valve usually gets deleted. I see yours is still on.

Many builders decide to locate the MAP and EVAP Purge valves on the transmission instead on top of the valve cover to keep the top of the engine cleaner. Where you locate them is personal choice of course.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 07-11-2011).]

What are driveability issues with deleting the BBV? economy vs. performance.

Also my car is a 2.8 stick shift . There's an 88 tech 4 auto at the local pick apart. What parts will I need to get together. I heard my accelerator cable wont work. The four cylinder one will?

quote Originally posted by hercimer01: What are driveability issues with deleting the BBV? economy vs. performance. Also my car is a 2.8 stick shift . There's an 88 tech 4 auto at the local pick apart. What parts will I need to get together. I heard my accelerator cable wont work. The four cylinder one will?

No driveability issue in deleting the BBV...Some say they have gottne better MPG with it still attached with vaccuum only..I have deleted it in all my swaps but the one that went to Cali...The V-6 cable works fine but the 4 banger is a direct fit...Buy it to re-sell as you can get $50 for it to someone looking for one as they are getting hard to come by...So you already have the DRV auto axle...if not you will need it......

I have two sets of Auto and Manual axles. The car is a stick so i will need a shifter and cables? what all parts are involved with swapping to a auto.


Thanks again Guys for your help. I helped do my Formula but this is the first on a 3800.

------------------
Project Genisis Lo Budget 3800SC swap in progress

88 formula 3.4L 4t60 swap
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/091761.html

Looking at your picture it looks like the run to the TPS/MAF/IAC is close to the exhaust. I would think you would want it farther away. Maybe it's just down there because of how it's hanging and you planned to put it up higher once it's in the car.

On many stock 3800's GM put a 'heat shield" around the CTS. I would think you would want to keep all wires at least that far away from the exhaust if not further.

Yeah. Its hanging down I wasn't sure of the routing so I made It a little long. I wanted to keep mods possible in the future, Like the plate for the throttle body and possibly a different throttle body.

I scored the 4 cyl accelerator cable cheap. An auto shifter, auto shifter cable, a 4 cyl TV cable which is for sale now and a center console no cracks or distortions.

If you dump the BBV, you can route the wires back that way.

I'm leaning that way. But I want to read the book first on its function.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-12-2011).]

I've read a lot of threads and everyone says the 87 88 4 banger throttle cable is a direct fit. mine has the extra bell-crank swage on it and it is an 88 cable. Before i go cutting anything i want to make sure it will work OK or that I am not destroying a cable that's worth more as is.



These are examples of how it was on the car it came from.
These are pics of the Indy Fiero #162.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-17-2011).]

I stripped all the insulation and extra stuff out of the engine compartment today. I also got the tank out. It looks good inside no rust that I could tell.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/icons/icon10.gif

I need ;

Outer dew wipes.
S-10 brake booster upgrade.
Air intake plumbing. Done
An exhaust system. On order. Done
86 Grand Am brake upgrade. Have new Grand Am calipers and rotors. Done (new brake lines too.)
Two rear toe links with tie rod ends. Re-threading the tie rod ends. I know now to smack the knuckle with a hammer, not the threads. Repaired threads and got new castle nuts.
A tranny cooler. Swapped in an auto radiator.
Trans cooler lines. Installed new lines going to the back.
An ECM tune. Received one of nosrac's. And did a CASE learn procedure on it.
Radiator over flow tank. Done.
The fuel pump, strainer, pigtail connector. DONE
Battery tray. welded in stock replacement.
Sound proofing mat. Have now. Put some in the rear fire wall.
Super charger idler. Bought new.
Belts. Done.

I have lots to trade with. Well maybe not lots.

A complete set of 88 calipers 79 K miles. I can rebuild them if desired. Yes I am licensed aircraft mechanic so i do know what im doing.
A set of 88 front hubs still in the knuckles 79K miles. Spin smooth.
A not so good armrest center console. Cracked where your elbow sits.
A rear tail wing, no stands, slightly warped up on ends.
86 ECM. Good 49K miles. SOLD
86 rear GT calipers. Traded for Grand Am cores.
98 GTP steering column. SOLD
86 4 speed muncie 49K miles with all the cables, shifter, cylinders and hydraulic line. In the mall. SOLD
4 speed console bezel. SOLD
An 88 4 cyl accelerator cable with the double swage. SOLD
86 ford taurus starter. SOLD

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 11-05-2011).]

I sold the8 88 throttle cable.

I've got 2 fuel pumps. One from a 01 silverado 6.0, the other from a 98 blazer 4.3. I have not looked up the specs on them, but they both run high pressure (65psi I think). The pumps are good, they were replaced because of pin holes in the flex tube, which isn't used in the fiero application. Not sure if you want used or not...or how to ship a skinky used pump?

quote Originally posted by 1fatcat: I've got 2 fuel pumps. One from a 01 silverado 6.0, the other from a 98 blazer 4.3. I have not looked up the specs on them, but they both run high pressure (65psi I think). The pumps are good, they were replaced because of pin holes in the flex tube, which isn't used in the fiero application. Not sure if you want used or not...or how to ship a skinky used pump?

Thanks, but i would really like to go new for the fuel pump. I don't want to have to get in there again or get stranded. Thanks again.

Totally understandable. I didn't know where you stood with it given the title.

Great looking build so far, keep up the good work!

Random question: a guy I work with down here in Normal is originally from the Rockford area and keeps telling me about a guy back home with a few Fieros down the street from him, not sure if thats you or not. His names Antonio Mendoza.

Thanks!
I keep hearing the same thing, a guy down the street has a few. My name is Allen Warren. I have a Las Vegas Fiero Club sticker on mine.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-17-2011).]

motor is coming along well i should start building my motor soon my 2.8 isnt enough for me

A friend of mine had this in his attic. It's automotive 1/4" sound proofing. Its 2' X 100' I scored today! It's not DynaMat but for the price I won't look a gift horse in the mouth.

That foam looks like it could burn or melt easily. You might want to cut a stip off and try to burn it, just to see how it reacts. Don't breath in any smoke, it could be toxic if it burns.

quote Originally posted by hercimer01: I have decided to go with the Bosch 69225 fuel pump.

O.K. So no one caught this. That pump is great for a N/A 3800. I was at Napa today and we looked up this pump and it didn't seem right. I have read lots of bickering on the forum as to what pump to use and I am more confused now than when I started. So this is where i'm at.

Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The fuel pump should run for two seconds. The pressure on the gauge should read 48–55 psi (333–376 kPa).

Start the engine and allow to idle. The fuel pressure should drop about 3–10 psi (21–69 kPa). The idle pressure may vary somewhat, depending on barometric pressure. Look for a big drop in fuel pressure, rather than a specific number.

As copied from a Chilton manual.

The Bosch is only rated at 34 PSI
The ACDelco EP376 is rated up to 80 PSI.
The Walbro 225 is for big horse power.

So the EP376 is what i need.

I think.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 07-22-2011).]

quote Originally posted by hercimer01: The Bosch is only rated at 34 PSI The ACDelco EP376 is rated up to 80 PSI. The Walbro 225 is for big horse power. So the EP376 is what i need. I think.

Yep, I have EP376

Thanks nosrac.

Well I bought the Airtex equivilant. Got a good price on it. I didn't know what strainer to get so I got the 86 gt one. P/N FS1. I hope its the right one.

I'm not sure what the difference is with strainers? GM strainers are all so very similar to one another, I just don't know why they even have different ones? They all seem to have the same size "cup" that pushes onto the bottom of the pump. Just make sure it's fully seated (they push on hard sometimes) and that the strainer does not interfere with the float arm.

It worked fine. I still have to put a pigtail for a connector on it. Rock-Auto has one.

Just thought I would update here. I got hammered by life the last two weeks. My Dad had a stroke so i have been helping him a lot. fortunately it was mild and he just needs to get his plumbing cleaned out. Work slowed to a halt and the heat has just been unreal. I am ready for a test fit on the engine so i can finish the harness and do the cooling/heater lines. I think once I see the engine in the car I will get fired up again. Its also supposed to cool off.