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Project Genisis Lo Budget 3800SC by hercimer01
Started on: 05-05-2011 01:13 AM
Replies: 229
Last post by: hercimer01 on 03-17-2012 02:50 PM
DimeMachine
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Report this Post10-11-2011 11:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DimeMachineSend a Private Message to DimeMachineDirect Link to This Post
I was looking at this type of mount when I did my 3800SC swap, but ultimately decided not to because I kept my EGR (which is in the way )AND I was concerned about if the trunk wall is strong enough in this location to support the mount. I know there is a brace/support behind it, but where people mount the dog-bone on the passenger side, it ties into the bracket by the strut mount structure and the trunk wall - which appears to me to be much stronger. I would be particularly worried during hard launches. Has anyone had this style/location mount for a fairly long period of time that can report back on how it held up? I am not trying to detract in anyway from the good looking mount that you have made, I am just trying to see if anyone can confirm from experience if this location will ultimately hold up or not???

------------------
87 Formula Clone, 3800SC, 3.4 pulley, 4T65E-HD, HP Tuners, 12.98 at 103.4 1/4 mile, Regal GS Gauge Cluster.

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hercimer01
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Report this Post10-12-2011 01:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post
darkhorizon seems to be experienced with special setups and high horsepower. That's why i referred to DH earlier for approval. I do plan on modifying the passenger side dog bone bracket on the engine so that it lines back up to the original dogbone brace on the trunk wall. That will give me dual dogbones.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 10-12-2011).]

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L67
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Report this Post10-12-2011 05:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for L67Send a Private Message to L67Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by DimeMachine:
AND I was concerned about if the trunk wall is strong enough in this location to support the mount.


It isn't. I was able to destroy the trunk wall in the stock location without the triangulation piece. Bracing in the middle of the trunk wall will yield an even weaker objective to warp/bend.
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hercimer01
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Report this Post10-12-2011 11:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post
Ok so tried bleeding the new brakes and the lines just ended up exploding. The car has been out of commission for along time.
I was trying to do the CASE learn on the PCM and the Snap On Solus pro kept telling me the brake is not set. I checked the TCC voltage into the PCM (C1-30, C203-P) off of the brake switch and it doesn't go away with the brakes applied. Also my brake lites don't work. The wiring pinouts have been kind of vague on the car wiring required.
My car was manual. So I guess I feel as if im missing something in the manual to auto conversion.

EDIT: The contacts in the brake switch are kind of trashed "erratic contact" so im cleaning them up. The center contact "pin B orange wire" feeds "pin A white wire" and "pin C blue wire" The orange wire is 20A fused and the blue wire feeds the brake lites.


Brake pedal not applied.

Brake pedal applied.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 10-13-2011).]

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hercimer01
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Report this Post10-13-2011 01:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post
Cleaning the contacts fixed the brake lites.
So how do I overcome the lack of a TCC switch?
Am I going to have to add wiring to the car side for the TCC?
I will be adding cruise to this also. It did not originally come with it.
I assume thats another switch on the pedal with more wiring?

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 10-13-2011).]

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hercimer01
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Report this Post10-13-2011 03:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post

hercimer01

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quote
Originally posted by L67:


It isn't. I was able to destroy the trunk wall in the stock location without the triangulation piece. Bracing in the middle of the trunk wall will yield an even weaker objective to warp/bend.


How many horsepower were you running?
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L67
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Report this Post10-13-2011 06:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for L67Send a Private Message to L67Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by hercimer01:
How many horsepower were you running?


Horsepower is completely irrelevant, torque is what breaks things. It was a stock L67 behind a Getrag 5 speed. Even with your 4T65, the trunk wall will bend with time. If you use it in conjunction with the stock location dogbone, you'll be alright. For those who are considering using only a center trunk mount, be assured the trunk will shrink.
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hercimer01
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Report this Post10-13-2011 07:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post
I found this tonight at LKQ.
Brakes and TCC all in one.
Its from a 90 Olds Delta 88.
I just have to splice the upshift lite wire under the dash into the TCC switch, and the other wire to the orange wire of the brake switch.
This will hopefully give the PCM proper indication of the brakes so I can do my CASE learn. Edit; It did.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 11-05-2011).]

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hercimer01
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Report this Post10-13-2011 07:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post

hercimer01

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quote
Originally posted by L67:


Horsepower is completely irrelevant, torque is what breaks things. It was a stock L67 behind a Getrag 5 speed. Even with your 4T65, the trunk wall will bend with time. If you use it in conjunction with the stock location dogbone, you'll be alright. For those who are considering using only a center trunk mount, be assured the trunk will shrink.


I centered my trans so I could use two driver side manual axles. That threw the stock dog bone out to the pass side 1/2". I still have to have my brackets welded up and I will have the welder compensate for that.

Did you use a doubler behind the center bracket on the trunk wall? Not to keep it from bending but from tearing.
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hercimer01
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Report this Post10-14-2011 01:59 AM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post
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hercimer01
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Report this Post10-14-2011 08:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post

hercimer01

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Ah, Success. I was able to do my Case learn, it was actually CKP relearn on the SnapOn Solus Pro I borrowed.
As I was getting it up to temp it sprung a pretty good antifreeze leak under the heater core area under the car. Theres not much rust in this car, but it sat for so long that the little things are giving out. I would rather find this stuff out now than on the road.
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hercimer01
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Report this Post10-20-2011 02:55 AM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post
I had an extra heater core I grabbed from LKQ a couple of years ago. That's in and removed the brake line from the front to the rear. Maybe i can get that replaced this week sometime.
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hercimer01
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Report this Post10-22-2011 02:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post
Yay!!! PIP is back up!!!

I replaced the main brake line from the proportioning valve in the front to the tee by the right rear tire.
The bubble flare nuts are M14X1.5 with 6mm tubing. P/N BLF-53C-5 at Autozone. I used a metric double flare tool and made fine looking bubble flares with it.
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hercimer01
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Report this Post10-22-2011 04:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post

hercimer01

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OK so seriously. The hoses are bad and im replacing the rest of the rear lines too. At this rate I will be replacing the whole front system also.
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post10-22-2011 05:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageSend a Private Message to phonedawgzDirect Link to This Post
Seriously, you should.

Anything that is in Wisconsin is well rotted to gone by now. Might as well get it all done.
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hercimer01
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Report this Post10-22-2011 08:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by phonedawgz:

Seriously, you should.

Anything that is in Wisconsin is well rotted to gone by now. Might as well get it all done.


Yeah, I will. I guess i'm just spoiled, my Formula is from Phoenix and its a joy to work on. NO rust except under the battery a tiny bit.

At least its on the ground and portable now. I used P/N BLF-39C-5 (M10X1, 3/16" tubing) for the small tube fittings in the rear.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 10-22-2011).]

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hercimer01
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Report this Post10-23-2011 03:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post
Try to ignore his annoying gum smack.
Its portable now!!


I was sitting on a 4X4 chunk of wood, so it was hard to accelerate right.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 12-23-2011).]

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hercimer01
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Report this Post11-05-2011 05:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post
I have a 4K RPM stumble now with no codes.
I did a CASE learn with a SnapOn Solus Pro scantool after I installed the PCM.
I dont know if it has been doing this all along or just started.
I haven't had the car out yet for a hard drive, just around the block.
Anyone have any ideas whats causing this?



Notice the speedo, whats up with that?

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 03-08-2012).]

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phonedawgz
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Report this Post11-05-2011 06:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageSend a Private Message to phonedawgzDirect Link to This Post
Rev limiter in Neutral.

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hercimer01
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Report this Post11-05-2011 06:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post
Thanks I was wondering about that.
Notice the speedo, whats up with that?

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 03-08-2012).]

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phonedawgz
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Report this Post11-05-2011 06:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageSend a Private Message to phonedawgzDirect Link to This Post
4000 in Park/Neutral

59950 in Drive

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 11-05-2011).]

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hercimer01
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Report this Post11-05-2011 06:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post
I have been on the hunt now for a while to come up with a cheap intake solution, and I think I found it. What do you think for $32.00?
Edit; the drain pipe ID is 4", the PVC peice is a 3" coupling with an OD of 4"



[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 11-05-2011).]

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hercimer01
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Report this Post11-05-2011 06:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post

hercimer01

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Thats pretty much all the parts to do the install. Now I will Tally up all the receipts and post the results.
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Report this Post12-14-2011 03:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for JfrostSend a Private Message to JfrostDirect Link to This Post
Any updates on how much this ended up costing you?
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hercimer01
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Report this Post12-14-2011 07:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post
Yeah. Ive just been lazy. I have a bag full of receipts that I have to sort. Now that you have asked I will get it done Thanks.
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hercimer01
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Report this Post12-14-2011 08:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post

hercimer01

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Here goes, I will use this text box to update the price tag.

1986 Fiero GT 49k miles with a blown motor
$900.00__

1998 GTP 130K miles whole car
$500.00__

Odds and ends
$119.00__Title
$35.00__Registration, Antique vehicle, 4 years worth
$14.99__Center console
$22.49__High temp paint
$9.98__Undercoat

$201.46__TL

Air intake;
$24.99__8132 Spectra air filter
$5.77__Drain pipe
$1.15__3" PVC coupling
$3.00__Clamps

$34.91__TL

Exhaust;
$119.89__Flotech afterburner w/shipping
$140.00__ Exhaust pipes
$6.99__Exhaust flange gasket, 1
$5.88__Tail pipe hanger universal, 2
$5.99__ Aluminum engine enamel,1

$278.75__TL

Brakes, Grand Am upgrade, rear only
$47.98__Brake hoses
$10.49__Brake pads
$45.98__Calipers
$39.98__Rotors
$20.00__Brake lines

$164.43__TL

Transmission
$7.49__Pax 560 brake line
$20.23__Trans cooler hose
$13.99__ Trans Filter
$29.98__Tans fluid, 2 Gal
$7.49__Gear selector
$10.99__Gear shift select cable
$12.00__Hose menders

$102.17__TL

Axles
$14.34__Half shaft
$9.99__ Grease

$24.43__TL

Suspension
$45.00__POR15
$120.00__Sandblast cradle
$51.98__FA1146 Rear lower ball joints
$25.17__7304 Control arm bushings Prothane
$48.57__7502 Cradle bushings Prothane

$290.72__TL

Engine
$350.00__FieroX motor mounts
$21.99__820K6 serpentine belt
$14.99__665K6 serpentine belt
$21.99__ 5W-30 Oil, 4 qts
$3.99__Oil filter
$1.99__ VS50465R Valve cover gaskets
$11.97__Fuel injector Orings
$4.99__61024 TBI gasket
$15.99__TU179 temp switch
$16.99__231086 Idler pulley
$50.79__MS98014T LIM gaskets
$1.99__MS95744 UIM gasket
$5.99__Black silicone
$4.44__Plug wires
$45.79__89367 Belt tensioner.
$8.99__15849 Thermostat
$4.99__Oil pressure sensor
$26.94__APP606 spark plugs

$614.48__TL

Electrical
$00.00__ Wire Harness self fabricated
$75.00__Pre programmed PCM from nosrac
$91.15__Battery
$4.99__Battery tray, stock
$2.98__ Electrical tape, 2 rolls

$174.12__TL

Cooling
$24.00__Coolant tee
$00.00__Filler tee
$49.99__Automatic radiator
$20.99__E72003 Radiator hose
$2.38__Heater hose
$10.98__Hose clamps
$9.99__Over flow tank

$118.33__TL

Fuel
$21.99__PT2352 ACDelco fuel pump pigtail
$18.76__Fuel hose
$79.99__Fuel pump (Airtex equivalent to EP376)
$14.99__Fuel filter

$135.73__TL

$3403.80__TTL
$1400.00__Minus cars

$2003.80__With out the 2 cars for just the various stuffs.

plus 7.25% sales tax

I think that is pretty much it. I will up date it as I think of more.

[This message has been edited by hercimer01 (edited 12-16-2011).]

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hercimer01
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Report this Post01-18-2012 03:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post
I just got my brand new door glass, I chipped the original one.

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hercimer01
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Report this Post03-14-2012 11:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post
And the cost is rising with the temps Got this from gtxbullet, thanks.









I got rid of the spring holding up the passenger side.
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hercimer01
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Report this Post03-16-2012 05:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post
I have 2 DIY_STU dew wipes coming i bought off nitroheadz28 in the mall. Now I can remove the windows so I can tint them and reinstall them.
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hercimer01
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Report this Post03-17-2012 02:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hercimer01Send a Private Message to hercimer01Direct Link to This Post
Yay. I just picked this up today. (I plan on doing both my cars.)

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