So, the previous owner had the rear console re-upholstered. It looks pretty good, but if you want to access the ALDL port or the cig lighter for power, you have to take stuff apart to get to it. Here are my options:

1.) Live with it. It's what I've been doing so far, but it seems like very time I get it back together, I need to access the port again.

2.) Replace the nice upholstered unit an original. Honestly though, finding one that's in good condition and shipping it will be pretty painful. It also won't looks as nice as what's there (IMHO).

3.) Try to find a way to extend the ALDL port. Obiously, I'm not going to chop it up. I just want a 24" extension cable to move it towards the area around the steering column, like in modern cars. Extending the cig light will be very easy. I can cut into the wiring for that and even split it, so there is a plug not he passenger and driver side.

I'd like to go with the 3rd option and I thought I remembered seeing an ALDL extension cable a while back, but I can't find it. Has anyone seen anything like this?

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-Chris
'85 V6 SE 4sp (SOLD)
'88 GT Auto (fun car)
'99 Kawasaki Vulcan 500, owned since new
'03 Sentra SE-R Spec V (Daily driver)
'09 G37x w/ Premium & Nav (wife's car)

Just get some wire, solder some pins to the end of the wire. Paper clip wire works well. Insert into the a-b pins. Twist the wire about 1 twist per inch to prevent interference and run it to where you want.
Put a 1/8" phono jack and mount it where you want. Then you can use a 1/8 plug for getting readings or for a shorting plug.

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 03-17-2012).]

If you can't see taking the new arm rest off now to replace it with an original, what makes you think you will want to do it 5 years from now?

The V6 wires to the ALDL are ground (A), the ALDL activate wire (B), the ALDL 160 baud data (E) and a hot wire to the fuel pump (G) (optional)

There are no wires to twist since there isn't a balanced signal pair.

Anyways I would cut the wires, and extend them. Use the same color wires for later troubleshooting. Even if you put an original arm rest back you can keep the dash mounted ALDL.

The ALDL is already on the end of a 2 foot pigtail. I just unscrewed mine from the console skeleton, and routed the wire out from behind the console/glove box.
This was done at the same time when I mounted the ECM on the firewall, behind the passenger seat. (I had to cut a small half-circle in the grill on the right side of the console.)

if you do extend it make sure you can pull it back through easily or make a disconnect in case you ever have to remove the engine since it goes with the engine harness. When i did my 3800 swap i put it on the passanger side on the bottom of the dash close to the center console, makes it very accessible and there are no cables runing by my feet when im logging and tuning

[This message has been edited by black88fiero (edited 03-17-2012).]

Here's what it looks like with the console cover on:


And here's my dilemma. This is as far as the wiring will go:


Here's where I'd like to put it. Putting it on the passenger side would work too.


I suppose I could cut into the wires and do it that way since there are not that many, but doing all of them with the correct color/strip would not be fun. I know I could get a hold of the orange closed wire, but most of the stuff with stripes may not be easy or cheap. If I do cut into the wires, I want to use some sort of multi pin connector.

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-Chris
'85 V6 SE 4sp (SOLD)
'88 GT Auto (fun car)
'99 Kawasaki Vulcan 500, owned since new
'03 Sentra SE-R Spec V (Daily driver)
'09 G37x w/ Premium & Nav (wife's car)

It still lets ECM getting air to cool? If not, you have bigger problems..... ECM need air to move and cool it. You will kill the ECM.
Vent are removable?
Just move ALDL to the vents. Pass side is good.

Extension ALDL means solder and heat shrink.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

That was a thought I had too, but it's been fine. I purchased the car in early 2007 from a forum member in Chicago, IL (PJ Alvarez). PJ said he didn't have any problems either. I thought I had his user id in my email, but it wasn't there. He has a bunch of posts on all the mods he did to the car.

I don't mind soldering wires together, I just hate cutting up factory wiring unless I really really need to.

For the cig lighter, I'm going to try and mount one under each ash tray lid.

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-Chris
'85 V6 SE 4sp (SOLD)
'88 GT Auto (fun car)
'99 Kawasaki Vulcan 500, owned since new
'03 Sentra SE-R Spec V (Daily driver)
'09 G37x w/ Premium & Nav (wife's car)

You don't need to solder interior wires as they are not subjected to the elements like exterior wires are. Interior wiring does not use weather pack seals. No need to keep them water tight as water does not get to them. Simple, cheap butt connectors will work fine. You can use expensive heat shrink butt connectors if you want, they will provide a solid connection and a water tight seal. You can also solder and use heat shrink tubing like suggested, but regular butt connectors will provide a solid connection if you want a cheap and easy connection. I like the heat shrink butt connectors, but they are about $1.50 each so I only use them where they are needed.