It looks like this mod would have been quite useful to me when I had my Fiero.
I always had weak launches at the dragstrip because I couldn't hold any boost at the line due to the car overpowering the brakes. The increased clamping force would have probably helped out a fair amount in that regard.
I didn't take any good video's (first attempt failed), but I did compare the "slop" in the pedal between two Fieros, one with an S-10 booster, one with the Fiero booster, and both being otherwise stock pre-88 systems. I did not notice any major difference between the two in slop. If anyone wants a more precise comparison in slop I can do so.
[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 04-01-2012).]
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05:02 PM
Apr 2nd, 2012
Rickady88GT Member
Posts: 10648 From: Central CA Registered: Dec 2002
Thanks to Rodney for another Fiero product. And thanks the Guru for the examination of the part. I have use a set of Rodneys test run ball joint end links, I still have them in my LS4 GT and they have been working great.
I put a S10 booster in my 88 some time back and can say that it is a good upgrade. I can also say that I have done the S10 swap in a stock 88 and my C4 12" rotor 88. I have never been able to get a "good" feel from my C4 rotors and S10 booster. The travle is long and soft. BUT for some reason the stock 88 with the S10 felt really good, it had a shorter petal and a much harder feel than my 88 with C4 rotors. I am not exactly sure why, but I just cant seem to get the "feel" that I want out of the LS4 88. The booster let me lock up the wheels at will and with less effort, and that made the car "feel" safer to me. I did not have to stand on the brake to get the wheels to lock up. But this is just one of those upgrades that I would do to every 88 I will ever own. If I could save the time and just buy a booster set up for the swap, I would do it in a heart beat. I had to buy two new boosters the last time I did this swap because I broke the black plastic just inside the booster. I dont remember how I did it but I screwed it up some how.
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03:21 AM
sspeedstreet Member
Posts: 2306 From: Santa Maria, CA Registered: Dec 2002
Thanks to Rodney for another Fiero product. And thanks the Guru for the examination of the part. I have use a set of Rodney"s test run ball joint end links, I still have them in my LS4 GT and they have been working great.
I put a S10 booster in my 88 some time back and can say that it is a good upgrade. I can also say that I have done the S10 swap in a stock 88 and my C4 12" rotor 88. I have never been able to get a "good" feel from my C4 rotors and S10 booster. The travel is long and soft. BUT for some reason the stock 88 with the S10 felt really good, it had a shorter pedal and a much harder feel than my 88 with C4 rotors. I am not exactly sure why, but I just cant seem to get the "feel" that I want out of the LS4 88. The booster let me lock up the wheels at will and with less effort, and that made the car "feel" safer to me. I did not have to stand on the brake to get the wheels to lock up. But this is just one of those upgrades that I would do to every 88 I will ever own. If I could save the time and just buy a booster set up for the swap, I would do it in a heart beat. I had to buy two new boosters the last time I did this swap because I broke the black plastic just inside the booster. I don't remember how I did it but I screwed it up some how.
You're scaring me, Rick. I'm in the midst of doing my C4 12" rotor 88 install and I'm contemplating the S-10 booster. What possible connection could there be between the booster and the rotors? Maybe if the master cylinder or the calipers were changed, but all rotors are an immovable object as far as the pedal knows.
[This message has been edited by sspeedstreet (edited 04-02-2012).]
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03:53 PM
Rickady88GT Member
Posts: 10648 From: Central CA Registered: Dec 2002
You're scaring me, Rick. I'm in the midst of doing my C4 12" rotor 88 install and I'm contemplating the S-10 booster. What possible connection could there be between the booster and the rotors? Maybe if the master cylinder or the calipers were changed, but all rotors are an immovable object as far as the pedal knows.
I dont blame the rotors, It could be that I am just overlooking some small part that is causing the problem. My opinion is that you should do one upgrade at a time. Do the rotors first and see how you like it. Drive it for a while and make sure it works for you in several different type of braking conditions, and just make sure the system is functional and healthy. IF for some reason you think it needs the booster, then do the booster.
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04:03 PM
Austrian Import Member
Posts: 3919 From: Monterey, CA Registered: Feb 2007
Originally posted by Rodney: The point is you have to cut and weld (extend) the banjo to make the S-10 booster fit in a Fiero. Personally I do not want a brake booster in my 88 Mera with a welded banjo. I would not feel comfortable and safe driving my Mera with a cut and welded banjo. Would you?
I wholeheartedly agree with Rodney. While it may or may not be safe, I do not trust my welding skills with such a safety item. I prefer something that Rodney thought through all the way.
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04:45 PM
sspeedstreet Member
Posts: 2306 From: Santa Maria, CA Registered: Dec 2002
I don't blame the rotors, It could be that I am just overlooking some small part that is causing the problem. My opinion is that you should do one upgrade at a time. Do the rotors first and see how you like it. Drive it for a while and make sure it works for you in several different type of braking conditions, and just make sure the system is functional and healthy. IF for some reason you think it needs the booster, then do the booster.
A question about your boosters, then. Were they all from the same source?
Your numbers says 88 prop valve is working at full time. EI a "True" prop valve. (Acts like Figure B on this page.)
I re-edit the columns to show the prop valve to front/rear brakes.
code:
Caliper Pressure Comparison Stock 88 Booster vs. Rodney S10 Prototype: "All Tests with Engine On, but there is data from two 88 Fieros - 3.4TDC and 2.5L"
I think 84-87 uses a prop valve design that works like air/fuel regulators to limit max line pressure. (Figure C on link above) Older Fiero have some natural bias, 88 doesn't. Thanks for posting that data.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 04-03-2012).]
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06:52 PM
Apr 3rd, 2012
Rickady88GT Member
Posts: 10648 From: Central CA Registered: Dec 2002
Originally posted by Rodney: The point is you have to cut and weld (extend) the banjo to make the S-10 booster fit in a Fiero. Personally I do not want a brake booster in my 88 Mera with a welded banjo. I would not feel comfortable and safe driving my Mera with a cut and welded banjo. Would you?
quote
I wholeheartedly agree with Rodney. While it may or may not be safe, I do not trust my welding skills with such a safety item. I prefer something that Rodney thought through all the way.
I wont argue the point because I would have bought your boosters if you had them at the time, but many parts of the Fiero are very much safety related and welded. Welded parts do not = danger. Dangerous welds = danger. I had a profesional weld my bango and a welded collar over that.
[This message has been edited by Rickady88GT (edited 04-03-2012).]
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02:45 AM
sspeedstreet Member
Posts: 2306 From: Santa Maria, CA Registered: Dec 2002
Great write-up and testing Guru. Very interesting data.
My question is, on your test drives, did you find the Fiero to be more controllable or less during hard braking using the S10 brake booster versus the stock version? Was modulation of the brake pedal during high speed cornering that great of a difference from the stock version and were you able to flat spot any tires?
In that I'm not a professional driver not an engineer, I'll ask. Does it not make sense that during hard braking that more caliper pressure it transferred to the rear calipers? I'm thinking that makes a lot of sense.
------------------ Ron The key thing is to wake up breathing! All the rest can be fixed. (Except Stupid - You can't fix that) Always remember these words of wisdom.
"The Lord must truly love fools, for he made them in abundance."
Great write-up and testing Guru. Very interesting data.
My question is, on your test drives, did you find the Fiero to be more controllable or less during hard braking using the S10 brake booster versus the stock version? Was modulation of the brake pedal during high speed cornering that great of a difference from the stock version and were you able to flat spot any tires?
In that I'm not a professional driver not an engineer, I'll ask. Does it not make sense that during hard braking that more caliper pressure it transferred to the rear calipers? I'm thinking that makes a lot of sense.
Actually, that is not a favorable scenario. When braking, weight is transferred to the front of the vehicle. Having more of the braking force applied to the rear brakes does not do much good, since the rear brakes do not work nearly as well to stop the car. You want most of your braking power biased to the front brakes because they are under more pressure when braking. I'm sure guru will be able to explain this much better than I can.
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10:01 PM
olejoedad Member
Posts: 19114 From: Clarendon Twp., MI Registered: May 2004
Actually, that is not a favorable scenario. When braking, weight is transferred to the front of the vehicle. Having more of the braking force applied to the rear brakes does not do much good, since the rear brakes do not work nearly as well to stop the car. You want most of your braking power biased to the front brakes because they are under more pressure when braking. I'm sure guru will be able to explain this much better than I can.
Yes, generally speaking for a car with a static weight bias on the front wheels, but on a mid engined car the rear wheels have more weight on them during braking, therefore the rear brakes can do more work.
The Fiero, with its 47/53 static balance, keeps a lot more weight on the rear than a FWD car with a 57/43 (or 60/40) static balance during braking.
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10:27 PM
Fierobsessed Member
Posts: 4782 From: Las Vegas, NV Registered: Dec 2001
The concept is simple, braking force should be proportional to the current weight distribution. In a low to no traction situation, best braking is fairly close to matching natural weight distribution with a slight front bias to keep spin outs from occurring. Since the Fiero is slightly rear heavy, 50/50 happens to be just about right. This explains why Fiero's brakes are very close to identical on all fours. (50/50 F/R in 88, 51/49 in 84-87)
However, when you are panic braking in an ideal traction circumstance, the weight transfer would dictate a need more and more front brake bias. This is exactly what the combination valve is supposed to take care of. The combination valve, according to the math should not do any proportioning up to about 300-350 PSI ish, maybe lower? But for each 1 PSI the fronts increase, the rears increase 0.75 above the proportioning start point. I still have yet to butcher a combination valve and instrument it.
At least that's how its supposed to work in theory Guru's numbers say otherwise
[This message has been edited by Fierobsessed (edited 04-03-2012).]
Originally posted by Fierobsessed: Since the Fiero is slightly rear heavy, 50/50 happens to be just about right. This explains why Fiero's brakes are very close to identical on all fours. (50/50 F/R in 88, 51/49 in 84-87)
At least that's how its supposed to work in theory Guru's numbers say otherwise
50/50 never happen in an 88. 88 uses a "true" prop valve and run at all line pressures. 88 prop has small but major design changes. I still think 84-87 uses the kind of valve you are thinking. IE F/R same pressure until rears hits pressure limit.
You need different math to see 88 brake bias. (no, i don't have it.)
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12:05 AM
Apr 5th, 2012
blackrams Member
Posts: 32152 From: Covington, TN, USA Registered: Feb 2003
Actually, that is not a favorable scenario. When braking, weight is transferred to the front of the vehicle. Having more of the braking force applied to the rear brakes does not do much good, since the rear brakes do not work nearly as well to stop the car. You want most of your braking power biased to the front brakes because they are under more pressure when braking. I'm sure guru will be able to explain this much better than I can.
I'd agree in straight line braking but, not necessarily true while cornering and braking. But, I'm not looking to debate that here.
------------------ Ron The key thing is to wake up breathing! All the rest can be fixed. (Except Stupid - You can't fix that) Always remember these words of wisdom.
"The Lord must truly love fools, for he made them in abundance."
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11:39 PM
Jun 22nd, 2012
Silicoan86 Member
Posts: 1614 From: Savage, MN, USA Registered: May 2004
Now I think I understand why the car I bought that has the S-10 booster, has what I call a soft pedal. It travels farther than what I was accustom to in my old 88.
And I need to bleed the system.
[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 02-28-2013).]
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11:26 AM
solotwo Member
Posts: 5374 From: Grand Rapids, MI. USA Registered: Jun 2002
Would there be an issue making it just long enough to touch off on the master cylinder plunger? Or is the slack required?
Bob
I do not know all the interworkings of the brake booster, but assume the clutch pedal bango pushes on some type of control valve within the booster. Any slack that can be taken up w/o activating the control valve would help reduce pedal slop without having adverse impact. The body of the control valve then pushes on the brake master pushrod - but all this happens internal to the booster and any modifications to reduce and excessive clearance would require full balancer disassembly. Lastly, the pushrod activates the brake master cylinder, so if any slack can be taken out at this point without activating the brake msater, then that could help as well.
The real issue is you are talking about making adjustments for manufacturing tolerances that will vary from booster to booster and suppier to supplier, so there will likely never be a precise solution that could be applied to all S10 boosters (like one that says to make the banjo .065" longer and the pushrod .032" longer). With enough time/effort you could do something to possibly improve your setup, but doing the exact same on another one could cause the brakes to self activate under certain conditions.
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01:27 PM
PFF
System Bot
RCR Member
Posts: 4410 From: Shelby Twp Mi Registered: Sep 2002
Thanx for the explanation. Definitely more involved than I thought.
The other question I have would involve geometry.
How different is the S10 pedal geometry from the Fiero? Does that play into it?
Bob.
If the mechanical advantage of the pedal was greater, then you would have more pedal travel for a given movement of the banjo. If you wanted less pedal movement before brake engagement, you would have to raise the pedal pad or lower the banjo attachment. However, this will also lessen the output force from the master for a given pedal force input, which is the exact opposite of what the S10 booster upgrade is trying to accomplish.
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07:04 PM
Firefighter Member
Posts: 1407 From: Southold, New York, USA Registered: Nov 2004
I think Rodney is no longer selling these as pointed out by a prior post. But although I have moderate mechanical skills, I found the S-10 booster conversion to be relatively easy. I used a rebuilt 1997 S-10 booster bought for about $ 100. Also a 4 pound sledge hammer. Other than beating the crap out of the frame just to the lower right of the booster placement when facing the firewall, extending the input brake shaft was the most challenging. But for $100 the improvement is significant. Phil Randolph, a Connecticut Fiero owner was the first to do the conversion about 7-8 years ago and has a detailed post on the forum someplace.
------------------
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08:10 PM
Feb 28th, 2013
RCR Member
Posts: 4410 From: Shelby Twp Mi Registered: Sep 2002
If the mechanical advantage of the pedal was greater, then you would have more pedal travel for a given movement of the banjo. If you wanted less pedal movement before brake engagement, you would have to raise the pedal pad or lower the banjo attachment. However, this will also lessen the output force from the master for a given pedal force input, which is the exact opposite of what the S10 booster upgrade is trying to accomplish.
Thanks again Fieroguru, I do understand that. I guess what I meant to ask is whether anyone understands (knows) the difference in the swing-arm (pivot to banjo) length between the S10 and Fiero.
Originally posted by RCR: Just curious to know if the S10 booster can be pre-loaded by using an even longer shaft to take up the extra slack...
No... when you have "slack" (or Low Pedal cause by booster) then input shaft, output shaft, or both, is set wrong. Small amount of "slack" is build-in to booster control valve and that is needed. Never try to eliminate (preload) control valve slack.
quote
Originally posted by aaron88: Sometimes it's easier to visualize
Thanks.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 02-28-2013).]
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11:55 AM
Silicoan86 Member
Posts: 1614 From: Savage, MN, USA Registered: May 2004
Originally posted by theogre: Originally posted by solotwo:So Rodney are you selling these now?
No. See https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...L/072173-8.html#p282
That is an outdated post actually. He restarted the development of these after that post, and sent one to Fieroguru to inspect and review - thus the reason for this thread. (Notice the date this thread started is a month after the date of that post.)
Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to have been any updates on this for some time now though.
[This message has been edited by Silicoan86 (edited 02-28-2013).]
Originally posted by Silicoan86: That is an outdated post actually. He restarted the development of these after that post, and sent one to Fieroguru to inspect and review - thus the reason for this thread. (Notice the date this thread started is a month after the date of that post.)
I thought fieroguru got first version to test in $100 __ thread and took some time to install, get tools to test, time to test, time to writeup... RD had a few test boosters in other posts in this thread but Booster still not on his site.
I thought fieroguru got first version to test in $100 __ thread and took some time to install, get tools to test, time to test, time to writeup... RD had a few test boosters in other posts in this thread but Booster still not on his site.
Just to clarify, I was NOT one of the first 3 people identified to install/test the booster who didn't deliver, I was in the second batch and started my evaluation within hours of it arriving. I sent an email to Rodney on 3/21/2012 at 4:41 PM that the booster arrived and started this thread on 3/23/2012 at 9:22 AM with my first round of preliminary measurements...
Some time after my evaluation Rodney sent me an email saying he was not going to be offering a version of the S10 booster, but he might look for a smaller booster that fit better and didn't produce as much of an increase.
Originally posted by fieroguru: Just to clarify, I was NOT one of the first 3 people identified to install/test the booster who didn't deliver, I was in the second batch and started my evaluation within hours of it arriving. I sent an email to Rodney on 3/21/2012 at 4:41 PM that the booster arrived and started this thread on 3/23/2012 at 9:22 AM with my first round of preliminary measurements...
Some time after my evaluation Rodney sent me an email saying he was not going to be offering a version of the S10 booster, but he might look for a smaller booster that fit better and didn't produce as much of an increase.