orking on my front vent now and will post up some pics soon...

Have a couple questions for the guys who know...

What is the best SMC adhesive to use to "bond" the vent in place; like the seam around the edge and the under side bonding?
I have seen the 3M stuff which looks a bit on the high $ide (for the amount you get) and requires a special gun & tips. Also seen the Evercoat SMC panel adhesive 994.

Also, what is the proper filler to use on the top to blend the vent in?

And, if I wanted to make the under-side look good and blend-in the vent to the hood underside, what is the best approch to take?

Thanks,
AL

aljr,
i found this on ebay in the quart size. the guys at the body shop i use said this will work fine but use smc compatible resin for the glass work which im sure you know already.
quart
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120...id=p3984.m1438.l2649

there used to be a gallon size but its gone.
al
yes my name is Al too...

[This message has been edited by ace5514 (edited 03-29-2012).]

quote Originally posted by ace5514: aljr, i found this on ebay in the quart size. the guys at the body shop i use said this will work fine but use smc compatible resin for the glass work which im sure you know already. quart http://www.ebay.com/itm/120...id=p3984.m1438.l2649 there used to be a gallon size but its gone. al yes my name is Al too...

Ha! I seen that exact same eBay listing just before I posted last night

What do you mean "smc compatible resin for the glass work"? For the feathering-in of the vent? Couldn't I use the Evercoat SMC panel adhesive 994 also, or is that ONLY for the bonding areas?

I've used Fuzor 100EZ many times and highly recommend it. Click
You can embed fiberglass matting in it for extra strength.

Al, I used this for my hood scoop and it worked great.

http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=269

Having used both on my Vette project, I prefer the 3M for bonding FRP to SMC, as it is easier to deal with. I use the Evercoat for filling and small parts bonding, usually.

The Evercoat adhesive is not as forgiving in the "cleanliness" department. It mixes like Body Filler so you will get it in spots you don't want.
It also has an undetermined usable time. You will end up mixing more (or possibly less) than you will need.

The 3M (#8219 is what I use) is a Automix, so you do need a gun to squeeze it through the mixing tube, which leaves the first bit of it as an undesirable product.
It does have a more reliable (longer at times) usable time. You will only use what you need.

Both bond well, both sand well, both can be used as a filler.

This is my Vette build thread, about 2/3's of the way down is where I used the Evercoat to bond in extra tail light buckets.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...6/HTML/086798-3.html

On page 5, about 2/3's down is where I used the 3M to bond the entire front clip onto the body.

-Dave

quote Originally posted by IFLYR22: The 3M (#8219 is what I use) is a Automix, so you do need a gun to squeeze it through the mixing tube, which leaves the first bit of it as an undesirable product. -Dave

I actually never use the tips because of the wasted amount of the product. It takes between 1 and 2 full pumps just to fill the nozzle so a lot gets wasted and at $35.00 per tube, I definately don't like wasting it. I simple open the cap and squeeze 1 pump on to a mixing board and hand mix the adhesive.

Speaking of tubes.
I got some Evercoat Maxim 2-part plastic repair and I have used a couple of tubes of it but that stuff is difficult for getting out of the tube.
Has anyone tried those tube rollers that you slide the end of the tube in and then start rolling it up which pushes the product out of the cap.
I about wore my fingers out on the last tubes squeezing them.

for filler / smoothing out the work i use two types of filler one is a z grip smc filler for finish work and the other is a short strand reinforced smc filler for larger repairs. to do actual glass work such as bonding on things like hood vents i would put a layer or two of 1.5 oz chopped strand mat fiberglass and resin over the seam to hinder or prevent cracking. the resin must be smc compatable or from what i have read here and been told by the body shop guys. it will not stick well and eventually separate.
hope that helps.
ps most of what i have written here i learned from the guys HERE.. and a friend of mine that owns a boby shop ( he will be painting my car when it is done).
al

quote Originally posted by IMSA GT: I actually never use the tips because of the wasted amount of the product. It takes between 1 and 2 full pumps just to fill the nozzle so a lot gets wasted and at $35.00 per tube, I definately don't like wasting it. I simple open the cap and squeeze 1 pump on to a mixing board and hand mix the adhesive.

Same here. Not only do I not waste any, I know how well its mixed. When I was open full time, I was a Corvette specialty body repair shop.

Wow, lots of good info!

Sounds like the best stuff to use to actually bond the vent in place would be the 3M 8219? What is the actual working time for this stuff? I prolly wouldn't buy the gun or tips; most likely mix it up on a board any apply to the under-structure of the vent then around the seam (which would be "V"ed out to increase the contact patch and to feather the edges easier).

Then for my smoothing and feathering in on the top surface, I would first use fiberglass reinforced SMC filler then a top coat of non-fibered SMC filler? Can I just add fiberglass to the SMC Filler or do I need to get filler specifically for fiberglass reinforcing?

Gonna sand the entire hood down and repair some other small chips and surface cracks around the front corners. Should I spray some 2-part epoxy primer first or should I spray some sort of high-build primmer first?

Thanks for all the help guys! I should have some progress pictures to post later today...

AL

Is the 3M 8115 the proper stuff to use? Seems its the only one with extended working time (90min), where all the others 90 sec.-6 min...

Sorry about that. I was talking about the 8115 for $35.00 per tube. It seems to be basically a huge tube of JB Weld and it holds incredibly well. If I remember correctly, it is approved for use by automotive manufacturers to install panels without welding. That is how strong it is. Here is a complete kit with gun. Not cheap but at least you will have the gun for future use:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-...motive_Tools&vxp=mtr

quote Originally posted by IMSA GT: Sorry about that. I was talking about the 8115 for $35.00 per tube. It seems to be basically a huge tube of JB Weld and it holds incredibly well. If I remember correctly, it is approved for use by automotive manufacturers to install panels without welding. That is how strong it is. Here is a complete kit with gun. Not cheap but at least you will have the gun for future use: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-...motive_Tools&vxp=mtr

Ahh, thanks for that
After a bit of research, I kinda figured that was the stuff (8115) you were refering to. All the others have a VERY quick usable time where as the 8115 has 90 min. Would be kinda hard to mix and position the part in under 5 min

Thanks for the info guys!
I ordered some SEM 39747 and a qt of Evercoat 994 last night to get me started

Should I use some lightweight filler of some kind (maybe reinforced w/ fibers) to mold-in the vent on the under side of the hood? Some of the gaps between the new vent and old hood under-structure are quite large. What would be the best approch to here?

Thanks,
AL

If it has large gaps, go with matting. Cut it to shape with scissors first.

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: If it has large gaps, go with matting. Cut it to shape with scissors first.

I was afraid thats what I would have to do; would make more work finishing (or refinishing) the oem under-side where the matting would cover...
Could I spray in some expansion foam, remove some after it hardens, then fill with SMC filler and smooth? Or is that hacking it?

[This message has been edited by ALJR (edited 04-01-2012).]