The ignition contol module is a fairly common part they should have it in stock and they do show it available at Autozone as far as the website shows. I decided not to go with ACDelco and also went with Autozone/Duralast part for the lifetime warranty. If you to go with Autozone, try this link:

http://www.autozone.com/aut...on&fromString=search

print it out and bring to the nearest Autozone location.

The price is has gone up but still not too bad of a deal.

[This message has been edited by speed1 (edited 05-30-2012).]

O'Reily's also has a lifetime deal. I bought one that has lasted a year and a half for $52 after the Rockauto twenty some dollar one failed only weeks after the tune up. It's good to carry a spare, but I would just test the old one and keep it as long as it passes. The ICM can be changed with the distributor in.

My frickin car won't start now and I don't know what to do

If anyone does happen to read this:
I have everything replaced and put back in (spark plugs, wires, pick up coil, dist cap and rotor, new ICM). But now of course my car won't start. It cranks but that's all. I don't even hear the fuel pump going. (I went to check something, and put the top left fuse back in, now I hear the fuel pump going, still won't start though).

I put heat sink on the bottom side of the ICM, With the new wires, it was easier to take them off as a set, but I numbered them on both sides so I know they're in the right place. I didn't know what I was doing when I first started this project, so I took off my old wires from the dist cap in a way screwed up order (I think it was something like3, 4, 1, 2, center, 5, 6) but I don't even know that for sure. I put them back on in the 1,2,3,4,5,6 order, same with the spark plug side.

The dist cap wire side plugs are pushed down as far as I can push them (minus the center one, but the rubber touches the cap, is it just because that is the springy one?) And when I go to crank it, the RPMs stay at 0. I guess it moves about a millimeter. I notice the temp gauge goes all the way to hot, and the oil gauge goes all the way to the other side as well. But the go back to their normal spot when I stop turning the key.

What do I do?

[This message has been edited by FireGirl (edited 06-13-2012).]

If it is cranking, listen for the fuel pump to kick on. If you hear that, I would suggest you check for spark.

I was laughing at the titanic remark, because I just went through all of this myself. My ICM died in Feburary, & while fixing it, I thought I may as well rebuild the distributor while I'm in there. Had nothing but continued trouble since.

Also, is it a smooth crank? If it doesn't feel just right, you may either be off a tooth with the distributor, or if it's really a harsh crank, you might still be off on your firing order.

[This message has been edited by no2pencil (edited 06-13-2012).]

jump the a/b connector, loosen the distributor bolt and while the motor is turning over, gently rotate the distributor left and right and see if it catches.

The cranking seems normal.

The tach not moving while cranking means there is a problem with the ICM or pickup coil or, in your case, probably the connections. There is a guy who often posts that people are likely replacing parts when they only need to clean connections. Try plugging and unplugging the connectors and inspect for broken or loose wires between them. And just for giggles, maybe you should take the ICM back to the store and have them check it. You could also try your old ICM. Relax, it'll start.

I've had trouble with wire boots being too long at the distributor cap before. I've had to cut as much as 3/8" off all the rubber boots to prevent the boots from bottoming out on the distributor body before the metal connectors in the plug wires would finally click onto the distributor posts. I'd start there.

quote Originally posted by Bloozberry: I've had trouble with wire boots being too long at the distributor cap before. I've had to cut as much as 3/8" off all the rubber boots to prevent the boots from bottoming out on the distributor body before the metal connectors in the plug wires would finally click onto the distributor posts. I'd start there.

Ill have to check that out. We tested the wire from the dist cap to the ignition coil, and we didn't get a spark. So we're working on fixing that right now. We did take the ICM to autozone and it passed, so it is probably the ignition coil. Still unsure of what to do next, but we're just going one step at a time.

Tomorrow, I'll be going to FieroKing's house cuz apparently I managed to strip the threads that the screw connects the ICM to the distributor to, cuz I tightened it too much (oops). So he will be drilling out some new threads for me. And hopefully he will have some suggestions.......

[This message has been edited by FireGirl (edited 06-14-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Bloozberry: I've had trouble with wire boots being too long at the distributor cap before. I've had to cut as much as 3/8" off all the rubber boots to prevent the boots from bottoming out on the distributor body before the metal connectors in the plug wires would finally click onto the distributor posts. I'd start there.

I had to do that with the wores I got from the Fierostore.

I noticed the wire going from the dist cap to the ignition coil, on one of the boots, it was a lot longer. With my new wire set, I got 8 wires, but only 7 were on the car. So I switched one of the wires (I had two wires with the same boot on both ends) to the other one, because that boot was a lot shorter than the one that I had on there. But it still doesn't work.

I think we've narrowed it down to the ignition coil because that doesn't light up the timing light. But I don't know what to do.

[This message has been edited by FireGirl (edited 06-14-2012).]