So I didn't pay attention to the order that I took the wires off, but they just go in a clock wise direction right? I found a diagram that phonedawgz posted (https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/115515.html) on where to start, but it didn't show the point in the middle.

But my main concern is, is this normal?! Or will I have to work on her some more? Maybe it just needs to be cleaned?


And how does the rotor come off? Do I just pull it off? I didn't want to break anything..

[This message has been edited by FireGirl (edited 04-27-2012).]

YIKES! Yes normal.. sort of for a car that's been sitting for years and no, not good. I think you may need/want to pull the distributor out and clean it, possibly replace the pick up coil and "O" ring There are threads on hear how to do it, it’s not that hard, I’ve done it. The problem is those fingers pointing up and the bumps inside up a little bit are what trigger your plugs to fire, with all that rust you’re going to have issues. At the least, get some sand paper and clean it as best you can and then blow it with an air gun. If I can find the links on how to do it I’ll update with links.

Here you go;
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...100421-2-096510.html
remember to mark the distributors location to the block and the rotor to the distributor so when you put it back in you can match it's location back up. remember too that the rotor will turn when you pull the distributor off, and when you push it back down so plan ahead with where the rotor is and where it should be.

[This message has been edited by DLCLK87GT (edited 04-27-2012).]

With that much rust the rotor is probably stuck.....get a big screwdriver and pry on both sides. Some rust is OK...but that is a lot.

helpful hint for next time: Don't take all the wires off. Switch them to the new cap one at a time so you don't get lost.

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 04-27-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Gall757: With that much rust the rotor is probably stuck.....get a big screwdriver and pry on both sides. Some rust is OK...but that is a lot. helpful hint for next time: Don't take all the wires off. Switch them to the new cap one at a time so you don't get lost.

This is how I feel every time:


Haha, I thought it would be an easy pull off, replace, drive. So I just went out and started it. But that's the benefit of having other cars to drive lol. Anyway, yeah that rotor will not come off, I'll try the screw driver.

Do you think it would be ok to drive it once I get the cap and rotor replaced (it drove perfectly fine previously)

Yes.

You should get the rust off the distributor shaft before you put the new rotor on, or it may crack...and that pickup coil should be replaced someday, but you have to pull the distributor out to do that.

The only issue you're going to have is if the car will be out of time when you reassemble everything. If you can put the wires in the right position it might not be an issue. ANYTIME you are working with a distributor and rotor always mark where things go. This is what I do;

Lay out new wires on new cap



Mark said wires to correspond with where they go on the engine





You also have to put the new rotor in the exact same position as the old one, as the metal contact point cannot change position in a drastic manner. The distributor is supposed to be notched when you remove the rotor to see where it goes, but I also make another visible mark someone that is parallel with the direction the metal protrusion on the rotor is pointing. I also pry them off with a screwdriver, but there is a chance that you can kind of turn the distributor slightly when doing this (or the rotor itself) so make sure you make a mark elsewhere to where the metal tip points to.

And like mentioned above, I too would be worried about that pick-up coil. They tend to fail at the worst possible moments and would leave you stranded.

[This message has been edited by Fiero84Freak (edited 04-27-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Gall757: Yes. You should get the rust off the distributor shaft before you put the new rotor on, or it may crack...and that pickup coil should be replaced someday, but you have to pull the distributor out to do that.

I plan to. I literally just got this car up and running like a week ago, and it was nice out so I thought I would underestimate the amount of work it would take to replace this thing lol. I wanted to drive it some more until I had time and help to get it replaced. But I can't even get the rotor off. Sort of discouraged right now, not sure what to do.

Wow, your distributor is a mess! Looks like mine used to.

quote Originally posted by Patrick:

Umm... is the inside of the distributor supposed to look like this?

The rust isn't as big of an issue as others make it seem. Is it an issue? Eh. As you said it ran fine before. Does iy need to be cleaned? Definitely. It can be cleaned easily with it still in the car. Just get some emery cloth, abrasive pad, or medium to fine grit sand paper and go to town. The top of the shaft should be cleaned, as been mentioned. Also you want to clean the sides and inner and outer faces of each finger. It doesn't have to shine, just get the grit off. Its all about magnetism, and rust doesn't have a huge affect on that.

quote Originally posted by Patrick: Wow, your distributor is a mess! Looks like mine used to. Umm... is the inside of the distributor supposed to look like this?

WOW

If you don't want to rebuild you can clean in place, pay attention to these parts and the shaft under the rotor. As said above, some emery cloth will work, blow it off with some air, should be good to go. can't make it any worse as long as you don't break anything.

That distributor needs to be replaced. With that much rust you can clean it all you want but it will continue to rust. It needs to come out anyway as the pickup coil is shot. If it still works (the pickup) it won’t for much longer. The Fiero Store sells them for $169.00 or you can look for something in a wrecking yard. You will continue to have problems with that distributor.

if that rotor wont come off you can split it in half i had to do that with mine. it was just as rusted
be carful not to bend the tangs its easy to do

I'm just going to go for it and replace it all. Distributor, wires, and whatever else goes with it haha. The car runs (ran) perfectly fine, I was just changing it because these parts have been laying around since August 2011 when I first bought her and I decided to put them on finally. My boyfriend bought them for me for the tune up before Fiero fest, buuuut I never make time for my car, which I'm trying to do now.

quote Originally posted by FireGirl: I'm just going to go for it and replace it all.

Before you pull out the distributor, make sure you note exactly where the rotor is pointed using a reference point on the engine (like a bolt or use a piece of masking tape). The rotor will turn as you pull up on the distributor and the new one will turn the opposite way when you install it so you have to compensate a little for this rotation when you first start pushing the new one in the hole. Once the new distributor is seated the body will still be able to rotate, but the rotor will be fixed and should point at the exact same location as earlier. Be sure not to turn the engine over while the distributor is out because it will screw up your alignment mark.

I really don't think you need to spend the money to replace your distributer, especially when it's not broken. You should just pull it and rebuild it. There are very few parts, and its pretty simple. If you pull it, get a new O-ring and a new pickup, and make sure you clean up the rusty parts (which is way easier with it out) and it should be good as new. I had to do this exact thing to mine. If you buy a new distributer, it will look the same in a few years, and you will have spent WAY more money.

Rebuild the distributor, soak with WD-40 and gently brush with old toothbrush, new pick-up coil. Instead spend the money on some new brake flex hoses. Originals are probably collapsed inside, they melt inside from the old fluid. I was looking through your thread and seen the fluid, seized caliper etc.

[This message has been edited by rourke_87_T-Top (edited 04-28-2012).]

For some reason Fieros seem to run just fine with ignition parts that look like they've been retrieved from the Titanic. Then when you replace them there are all sorts of problems. At this time of year I wouldn't do much. That rotor actually looks fine. Your ignition parts may not have many miles on them. There are so many threads that begin, "I replaced all the ignition parts and now..."

Thanks for all the tips. For now, I will just replaced the pick up coil, unless for some reason the distributor is in bad shape.

I would try to rebuild it if you can, but I cannot see why people replace 25 year old parts with other 25 year old parts.
If you go cheap then parts you buy may not be as good as the ones that are in it, but replacing something like a coil or ignition module from a wrecking yard and you are asking for trouble.

quote Originally posted by FireGirl: Thanks for all the tips. For now, I will just replaced the pick up coil, unless for some reason the distributor is in bad shape.

Make sure you not only mark the position of where your rotor is pointing before pulling the diz, but also take note which way the "dimple" on the distributor shaft is faceing for when you put it back together.

And get a timing light handy if you do not have one already.

quote Originally posted by TXGOOD: I would try to rebuild it if you can, but I cannot see why people replace 25 year old parts with other 25 year old parts. If you go cheap then parts you buy may not be as good as the ones that are in it, but replacing something like a coil or ignition module from a wrecking yard and you are asking for trouble.

Well I stopped by FieroKing's place to give him some stuff from Shill. He was very generous (as always) and gave me this distributor!



I still need a new pick up coil, but I am glad I don't have to clean off my old one! I will still clean this one up a bit though. Thanks FieroKing!

Fiero people are great

Ok, I got a new pick up coil, but I have no idea how to get the old one off. I've read many threads but I don't understand what they are saying

Trying to upload BuddyCraigg here....hang on

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 05-10-2012).]

quote Originally posted by Gall757: Trying to upload BuddyCraigg here....hang on

I've seen some videos, the quality and sound are so low though..

Well I found those two videos, and got some louder speakers put on and this will help me a ton, cuz I can see what I'm actually doing and what's what. Thanks!

[This message has been edited by FireGirl (edited 05-10-2012).]

In the future, remember to replace spark plug wires ONLY ONE AT A TIME and you wont have any problems. The plastic rotor just pulls off and only goes on the correct way if its all the way down.

I checked Rock Auto for a new ICM, as the ones at AutoZone are $75.

RA had some there for as low as $2....why are they way way cheaper? There were also some for $20.

Which ones should I buy?? They all seem the same to me.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

86 2.8 V6

Edit:

[This message has been edited by FireGirl (edited 05-28-2012).]

The best service has be acheieved with the AC Delco modules. When putting it back on you must use a thick film of heat sink grease on the bottom of the module before you bolt it down. Electronic part stores sell it and so does Radio Shack.
When pulling the distributor you must mark the postion of the rotor and also the exact position of the distributor housing. With a hammer and punchI usually put two dimples, one on the block and the other on the distributor and make sure that they are aligned when you reinstall.
Sounds like you could make good use of a Fiero repair manual but I'll give you credit for doing this job yourself. Fieros have made great mechanics out of ordinary people for quite some time!

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

quote Originally posted by FireGirl: I checked Rock Auto for a new ICM, as the ones at AutoZone are $75. RA had some there for as low as $2....why are they way way cheaper? There were also some for $20. Which ones should I buy?? They all seem the same to me. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

Would've helped if you could've supplied the proper link to Here.

Everyone (in the know) will tell you the same thing... buy an AC Delco ICM. The other ones don't seem to last. And make sure to use proper heatsink compound between the ICM and the base of the distributor.

quote Originally posted by Patrick: Would've helped if you could've supplied the proper link to Here. Everyone (in the know) will tell you the same thing... buy an AC Delco ICM. The other ones don't seem to last. And make sure to use proper heatsink compound between the ICM and the base of the distributor.

That's what I tried to do, when I copied the web address I had my car and the parts all right there, but it didn't work out. And I went to Rock Auto because my boyfriend said it would be much cheaper (which it is by at least $50). When I went to Autozone, they didn't even have a module for a Fiero or GM in general. Maybe that's why they were so much more expensive? I was just there to get a price quote.

And I've got the distributor replaced already. I just need some heat sink compound and bolt everything down. And might have to do a timing. I have the old ICM, but I was just told to replace it while I'm doing everything else. Think tomorrow I'll go see if those wires aren't too expensive, and I have 6 new spark plugs too..

quote Originally posted by FireGirl: I checked Rock Auto for a new ICM, as the ones at AutoZone are $75. RA had some there for as low as $2....why are they way way cheaper? There were also some for $20. Which ones should I buy?? They all seem the same to me.

I got one from advanced auto parts.. It was a BWD (Borg Warner) ICM made in America...Has been working for 2 and half years now and no problems... Heat is the ULTIMATE premature killer of ICMs..I used Dioelectric Grease under it but I heard that there is something better to use to prevent overheating... also give your new plugwires some dioelectric grease on the inside of the end caps where the metal is it helps keep a good spark.... been doing it for years on my old Corvette where any little upset in timing and ignition on a 454ci can really make a difference Lol

quote Originally posted by gmctyphoon1992: Heat is the ULTIMATE premature killer of ICMs..I used Dioelectric Grease under it but I heard that there is something better to use to prevent overheating...

Do not use dielectric grease under the ICM. That is not the correct goop. Use the same stuff that's used under the CPU in a computer.

quote Originally posted by Patrick: And make sure to use proper heatsink compound between the ICM and the base of the distributor.

quote Originally posted by Patrick: Do not use dielectric grease under the ICM. That is not the correct goop. Use the same stuff that's used under the CPU in a computer. [QUOTE]Originally posted by Patrick: And make sure to use proper heatsink compound between the ICM and the base of the distributor.

[/QUOTE]

Yup, already plan on heat sink, which is the true reason I haven't put the ICM on yet. I have dialectic grease for the wires on the pick up coil.

quote Originally posted by FireGirl:

Ha ha on mine, those plastic clips on mine were entirely melted away. They were gone! The terminals from the pickup coil were just poked onto the tabs on the module.

I decided that was reason enough to pull the distributor and give it a nice new coil and module.

I use stuff called artic sliver it is in a black and sliver tube at radioshack. It is what they use on PCU's and Heat sinks on Computers. Cost about 11 dollar but I promise you will not have any heat problems.

One thing to note while doing this. Be careful not to stress the distributor shaft too much. After you clean it up it should be easy to put back together. If it gives too much resistence your shaft might be bent. Even if you get it back together the heat generated is going to fry modules left and right...

Its just me but I always bought Autozones $25 modules that are guaranteed forever...they give you a new one if it fails..Ive gotten 4 years out of them. Ive tried AC Delco ones that were 3-4 times as expensive and never lasted 2 weeks. The AC ones dont have any guarantee at all once you open the box. If you get a bad one you have to rely on generousity of the parts clerk. The dealer would not refund or replace mine. That policy for either may or may not be the same...I havent gotten one in 7 years now.

quote Originally posted by Patrick: Do not use dielectric grease under the ICM. That is not the correct goop. Use the same stuff that's used under the CPU in a computer.

Yea I knew it was something better or more correct ...... the dioelectric grease is what I would put on my plugs though anyways

They say to use something more like this >> http://www.outletpc.com/c2025.html

By the way when using a Thermal Compound more is not necessarily better. >> http://www.hardwaresecrets....rease-Part-1/1303/10
These tests were done on a CPU processor using a different amounts on thermal compound

[This message has been edited by gmctyphoon1992 (edited 05-29-2012).]

quote Originally posted by rogergarrison: Its just me but I always bought Autozones $25 modules that are guaranteed forever...they give you a new one if it fails..Ive gotten 4 years out of them. Ive tried AC Delco ones that were 3-4 times as expensive and never lasted 2 weeks. The AC ones dont have any guarantee at all once you open the box. If you get a bad one you have to rely on generousity of the parts clerk. The dealer would not refund or replace mine. That policy for either may or may not be the same...I havent gotten one in 7 years now.

This is for an ICM? Was it just the Duralast brand? I'll try there again tomorrow, but they said they didn't have anything for Pontiac, or even GM if I remember correctly.