It seems like they are exposed to tremendous vibration and would work loose over time, especially if threadlocker wasn't applied. (the bolts I removed appeared dry.) Any comments on the subject?

Loctite thread locker.

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Turbo 3800 E85 F23 5spd spec5
11.54@132.7

in my instance they backed out twice with threadlocker and torqued with torque wrench. I am switching to longer bolts and stronger threadlock. Will also be using a new torque wrench as mine may be out of calibration.

I always use Red fwiw and never had problems.

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Turbo 3800 E85 F23 5spd spec5
11.54@132.7

Basically I use loctite 202? I think its red and is the strongest they make.

Thanks for the tips....should I be concerned if I assembled with loctite blue?

I wouldn't.
Locktite hasn't been around forever and bolts still stayed in place.

quote Originally posted by masospaghetti: Thanks for the tips....should I be concerned if I assembled with loctite blue?

If I remember right, my torque converter bolts were held in with blue loctite.
the color USUALLY refers to the strength, but I always read the bottle for the specs.
loctite is designed for all size fasteners, like 00 screws (very tiny, I have a tap set that goes that small), on up.
the only loctite I don't like people using is clear loctite... also known as super glue...

You shouldn't need thread locker on the flywheel bolts. The torque alone should hold them in place. For the pressure plate bolts, I like to use lock-washers. It's a low-torque application (only 15 ft-lb), so lock-washers are fine there.

quote Originally posted by Blacktree: You shouldn't need thread locker on the flywheel bolts. The torque alone should hold them in place. For the pressure plate bolts, I like to use lock-washers. It's a low-torque application (only 15 ft-lb), so lock-washers are fine there.

I was told that proper torque should hold a bolt in. Does that sound right?

quote Originally posted by fierobear: I was told that proper torque should hold a bolt in. Does that sound right?

It should. Dont think they came from the factory with anything on them. As stated, cars have been around for over 100 years but loc-tite hasnt.

Steve

Are BOTH the threads in the pressure plate and threads on the bolts GOOD ? They should not loosen up even if installed dry. there must be another problem.

quote Originally posted by Lou6t4gto: Are BOTH the threads in the pressure plate and threads on the bolts GOOD ? They should not loosen up even if installed dry. there must be another problem. I meant flywheel & crank Threads

I agree, with the proper torque, the bolts should stay put. If the threaded holes are good, maybe you need new bolts.

quote Originally posted by fierobear: I was told that proper torque should hold a bolt in. Does that sound right?

you are correct. if the torque doesn't retain it, there is a flaw in the design of the bolted joint

Threads on cheap chinese stuff work loose easily. All the minibikes, lawnmowers, etc i have with chinese stuff is always working loose. I had one of those pocket bikes that everything worked loose every few weeks without locktite. I was driving it one day and it just quit. looked down and whole carb had fallen off and was just hanging from the throttle cable. When I found wheel axle nuts had worked out to just finger tite, I took a day and unscrewed everything I could find and locktited it.

Always make sure to use the proper torque specifications for fasteners as important as the flywheel bolts. I recently purchased some flywheel bolts for an LS1 (for my brake upgrade, M11's are hard to come by...) from the dealer and they do have something on the threads. It could just be a lubricant to keep the threads from galling but could also contain some sort of "Loctite" compound.