I have a nagging problem I can't figure out. I have a 1988 notchie Iron Duke automatic. It seems my alternator is only charging @ 11.75 volts (measured across battery terminal with a volt meter).....It's supposed to be charging around 14v running correct?
However - I don't have a "battery" idiot light coming on.
My "gauges" fuse blows a 10 amp fuse immediately and a 20 amp will hang on for a minute or so before popping. I realize the battery light is run through the "gauges" fuse- but even with a good fuse before it pops the battery light is not on. The bulb is good. I have un-plugged the oil pressure sender just in case I have one of the bad ones (ala Ed Parks bulletin). I can't find ANY frayed or bare wires anywhere. Nothing looks melted or bad down by the brake pedal, either- Can a bad alternator be causing all this fun?

No it can't. Need to prove it? Unplug the alternator connector and replace the 10A fuse.

How to troubleshoot your problem - Unplug the dash connectors and see if the trouble goes away. If none of them clear it then try unplugging the aux gauge panel.

Bulb blow a fuse... No.
Have you unplug the dash for any reason?
Plugs on back can cause a short... flex circuit looses the bond on copper trace then trace can bend cause the short when you replug it.

Car uses CS-130... Should not care if Volt light is dead. But if Volt lamp is shorted, like as above, then might keep the alt from turning on.

see my cave, cs alt in electrical section.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

I knew I'd hear from one of you 2! Thanks!
Ok- This could explain a few things. It may NOT be my alternator at all after reading about CS alternators in the "Cave"....
When I have a blown gauges fuse I have no idiot lights that come on during initial starting of the car.
So this means my alternator will not turn on without the battery light having a complete circuit? (blown gauges, idiot lites fuse)
When I put in a bigger 20 amp fuse,I had idiot lights at start up, a charging alternator at 13.9 volts across the terminals, and then a minute or so later- "pop" a blown fuse, and back to only 11.5-12 volts across the terminals. So more than likely it IS one of the plugs- probably on the right side of the dash (the one the tach feeds through). I did have the dash apart a while back and unplugged. I was trying to solve a different problem which Phonedawgz helped me with- Thanks again!

quote Originally posted by Rokkett268: I knew I'd hear from one of you 2! Thanks! Ok- This could explain a few things. It may NOT be my alternator at all after reading about CS alternators in the "Cave".... When I have a blown gauges fuse I have no idiot lights that come on during initial starting of the car. So this means my alternator will not turn on without the battery light having a complete circuit? (blown gauges, idiot lites fuse)

Correct

quote When I put in a bigger 20 amp fuse,

Not a recommended procedure however..

quote ...I had idiot lights at start up, a charging alternator at 13.9 volts across the terminals, and then a minute or so later- "pop" a blown fuse, and back to only 11.5-12 volts across the terminals.

Which is what I would expect to happen when the fuse blew

quote So more than likely it IS one of the plugs- probably on the right side of the dash (the one the tach feeds through).

Maybe = If you are basing this on your previous work sure. If you are basing it on the test, not really

quote I did have the dash apart a while back and unplugged. I was trying to solve a different problem which Phonedawgz helped me with- Thanks again!

It might also be that one of the plugs have come out and cocked and is shorting out.

87-88 Fiero uses CS-130 w/ I setup.

Normally a dead volt lamp should not be a problem because the alt also uses another fuse (Fan E) to turn on... Alt's I wire, brn/wht wire, should be on when key is on.

But Shorting the lamp circuit can cause a problem.

Dash "socket", right side, should be the problem. That plug both Power and Ground...

Once dash is fixed or dash socket looks good...
Try pulling the lamp and see if the alt stay on.
If alt shut down (and gauge fuse won't blow now) then Alt or wire to it has a problem.

Problem Solved!!?
TCC plug fell out of its connector on the transmission, it was resting against the exhaust pipe - it slowly melted half the plug and the purple and tan/black wires causing the short and popping the "gauges" fuse. I hope this is it. I have to find a replacement plug now and wire it in. Thanks guys!