Ice isn't normal, and is usually indicative of an undercharge or overcharge, or of an obstruction in the system directly prior to the icing component. Check the high and low side static and running pressures.

Loud in a Fiero? That's usually why I keep the radio turned up, the sound deadening is crap compared to new cars.

Low flow from the AC vents, could be blockage somewhere, or the mode door actuators now opening properly. Does air flow out of the defrost vents any easier than the dash vents? One side of the dash flowing more air than the other? may want to take out the blower motor and resistor and check for leaves or rodent nests. Also could be the evaporator freezing up due to the over or undercharge condition.

I only put 24oz in the system yesterday ao I`m going to add about 1/2 of another can to see if it makes a difference.
The air flow coming out of the vents is pretty decent but it`s low compared to my F150.
Now my truck may just have better air flow.
I only have my truck to compare it to and I know on my truck the air flow doesn`t get any more it just gets a bit colder on max.
On the Fiero when I turn the AC on max it has basically a roar from under the dash but the air doesn`t seem to come out much better.
Let me put it this way, as much turbine noise that is coming out from under the dash I would expect the air to be coming out quite forceful.
If it`s not coming out of the vents I would think it would have to be going somewhere.
Also, I think that it`s just barely frosty because as soon as I turn it off it loses the frost very fast, so I don`t think it`s freezing very solid.

[This message has been edited by TXGOOD (edited 07-17-2012).]

I've been reading these pages & Ogre for weeks now anticipating the AC overhaul of my 88 4cyl 5sp AC base coupe. The original R12 AC went 236,000 miles !!
I'm in the middle of it now and need to know if I can re-use my two switches on the back of the compressor. Green & White are existing and are in good condition. I've read many conflicting things on this, here and elsewhere. I read at autozone site that on the low cutoff switch brown replaces green. Is that for differing gas purposes ?
Should I buy both the fan switch & the low pressure or just one or ???
Many Thanks to all for the incredible wisdom around here.
Rick

I'd replace them just to be safe, they usually break when trying to remove them anyway. I would use Four Seasons part #'s 35756 and 35961 for a V5 compressor.

You can test the old high pressure cut-out switch by seeing if it has continuity between the terminal and body of the switch, BUT since the low-pressure cut-out switch opens up below 8psi, checking for continuity on it would show no continuity, and you'd have to hope it closes once the system is rechaged and the pressure is above 8psi.

I put in about another 2/3 of a can of freon and the frosting went away.
I think the pressure is holding.
High reading is between 170-190 and the low is about 30
I am going to remove the blower motor to check if the evaporator is clear because I think it should be getting more air flow than is happening.
Thanks once again RWDPLZ
Mike

quote Originally posted by RWDPLZ: I'd replace them just to be safe, they usually break when trying to remove them anyway. I would use Four Seasons part #'s 35756 and 35961 for a V5 compressor. Which one goes in which position? 35756 is green like my old one, does it go in same location? I realize they both have the same exposure to pressure, but my exis wiring needs to go to the proper one. IP: Logged 09:05 PM Jul 18th, 2012 RWDPLZ Member Posts: 15061 From: Michigan Registered: May 2002 Feedback score:    (11) Leave feedback Total ratings: 305 Rate this member Report this Post07-18-2012 01:42 AM RWDPLZ 15061 posts Member since May 2002 [QUOTE]Originally posted by Boxdin: [QUOTE]Originally posted by RWDPLZ: I'd replace them just to be safe, they usually break when trying to remove them anyway. I would use Four Seasons part #'s 35756 and 35961 for a V5 compressor. Which one goes in which position? 35756 is green like my old one, does it go in same location? I realize they both have the same exposure to pressure, but my exis wiring needs to go to the proper one.

Like you said, they both have the same exposure to pressure, so it doesn't matter which goes in where. After you add the new connectors, there's plenty of slack to reach either, although I'm fairly sure there was before, too.

Do make sure to wire the old switch wiring to the correct new switch wires. Light green wire to the low pressure cut-out switch, and light blue to the high pressure cut-out switch.

quote That`s not the main problem though because when I looked into the hole from what I could see is that a lot of the evaporator has this black looking gunk on it. I reached in with my finger and could scrap some of it off but I can`t get to most of it. I think I already know the answer to this question but can you remove the evaporator without taking the accumulator off, thus emptying the system.

Wow, well look at it this way: By the time you're done, you'll be an expert. 90% sure the panel can't come off without removing the accumulator. You don't want to risk bending the metal lines and ruining the evaporator, either. You'll need to have the system evacuated. MIGHT try removing the blower motor and looking in through there. A trick I learned a few months ago, if you have a phone with a camera, stick it in somewhere hard to see like this, and take a picture, might give you a better idea of what's going on.

I don`t know if I will be an expert, but I should know that when redoing a Fiero AC system to check everything including the evaporator core.
The only thing left that I haven`t looked at is the condensor.
I know it`s not leaking but I guess I should at least spray some water through it to get any dirt build up.
From what I can see of the evaporator blockage I should have a virtual typhoon blowing in the cabin after cleaning it out.

[This message has been edited by TXGOOD (edited 07-18-2012).]

Was something living in there? Also, what's up with the ends of the lines, they look like they're clogged with something white, or is it just the picture?

I guess it was just dust and dirt that would stick to the coils that were wet and just built up over time.
But then I guess something could have lived in there as this car only had about 48k miles put on it from 88 to 98.

Those are corks, I like to seal things off when I open them.

[This message has been edited by TXGOOD (edited 07-18-2012).]