Finally got the 2.8 in my 86 SE project to run properly. Now I need to do the brakes and looking at the bleed valves indicates I'll be replacing all calipers and likely flex lines as they are original. The Ogre's cave indicates using the MC is NOT recommended as it ends up creating MC problems. I don't have a vacuum pump and I'm having some difficulty finding a $20. version as mentioned by the Ogre.
Has anyone ever tried to bleed brake lines using an air compressor and the venturi effect. What I am proposing is a clear plastic bleed line (line 1) from thre bleed valve into one side of plastic "Y" connector (say left side of the top of the "Y"). The output of the "Y" (the foot of the "Y") would have a clear plastic tube (line 3) into a recovery container (clear container so you can see what is happening). The other side of the "Y" (opposite of the bleed line) would have another piece of clear plastic tubing connected (line 2). If my theory holds water (or should I say brake fluid), applying compressed air to line 2 should create a vacuum in line1 and draw the brake fluid though the lines from the MC. Watching line 1 will tell you when all the air has been bled out (line 3 and the recovery container won't tell you anything because your using air to create the vacuum).
COMMENTS/INPUT APPRECIATED.

I like the "get your girl to pump the pedal" method
but I would like to see/hear how that method works out for ya ( you know just in case )

You could try, but I think you would need a fair amount of air flow to generate enough vacuum to pull the fluid.

Have you though of using Speed Bleeders? They are a bleeder with a one-way check valve so that you can bleed the brakes by yourself using the 'pump' method. Other than that, have you tried Princess Auto for the vacuum system?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0...ef=asc_df_B0002SR7TC

Are you thinking somthing like this?
I used to work at a vette restorition shop and I used one of these to bleed brakes. It is by far one of the best methods I have used.
Speed bleeders are the fastest Method I have use.

I see no issues with your method above, I have a AC vacuum pump that works off the venturi effect and that will pull almost 30 inch of vacuum!

[This message has been edited by blander66 (edited 09-06-2012).]

My pressure bleeders for brakes and clutches...


Make sure the diaphram is installed to keep the air seperate from the brake fluid, keep the pressure low (5-10 psi), and don't let it run out of fluid.

Too much pressure and you can spray your front compartment and fenders with brake fluid...

The hard part is getting the bleeders open without breaking them off. In my humble opinion and unfortunate experience, you probably need new calipers, hoses, and lines. Bleeding the brakes may be the easiest part. I used speed bleeders, but now I have a leak in a hard line. Good luck!

quote Originally posted by 85 SE VIN 9: The hard part is getting the bleeders open without breaking them off.

Make sure to hit the top of the bleeder screws a few times with a hammer before trying to loosen them. It might mushroom the top of the bleeder slightly, but they will still work, and the impact normally helps the bleeders come out w/o snapping them off.

quote Originally posted by fieroguru: Make sure to hit the top of the bleeder screws a few times with a hammer before trying to loosen them. It might mushroom the top of the bleeder slightly, but they will still work, and the impact normally helps the bleeders come out w/o snapping them off.

This vehicle sat for 15 years. I have already sheared off the bleader valve on the right rear caliper and that was after soaking it with liquid wrench a couple of times a day for about 5 days. I'll try the hammer trick with the liquid wrench on the next one but I'm not holding out much hope. Visual inspections shows a lot of corrosion - almost as though they were welded together. The previous owner drove it in winter and around here they use a lot of salt on the roads. But nothing venrured nothing gained.
I was at PartSource today and they have calipers on sale - I'm going to order all 4 while they are on sale - If I can ge the valves open, I can always return the parts.
As far as bleeding, fieroguru's idea and photos (male compressor fitting in a master cylinder cap looks like the simplest and least expensive.

I use a $5 solo brake bleeder from Princess Auto. Cheep, works awesome and it keeps the fluid off the ground.
http://www.princessauto.com...an-Brake-Bleeder-Kit

It's kind of made cheep so I replaced the magnet and hose but that's about it.
.

I've used a mayonnaise jar half full of clean fluid and a length of tubing for decades. Super cheap one-man method.

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1986 SE Aero coupe.

3.4 DOHC swap is complete and running, now just have to finish the rest of the car...

I have one of these, smaller version of what was posted above:

It works well, and really quick. I've seen chinese knockoffs at the tool store cheap lately. It uses a fair bit of CFM with the throttle open fully. Rated at 4.3cfm @ 90psi. Supposed to suck 26" Hg. So, yes, if you can rig up your own, it'll work. Nothing much to the design of the thing. Air flows over tube going into container, creating a vacuum. Another hose comes off the container that goes to your bleeder screw.