I find myself wondering if it's actually necessary to remove the control arms (front & rear) completely from the vehicle to install poly bushings, or can you just unbolt them and swing them down/around to get at the bushings?

Obviously I don't plan on torching out the bushings to do it.

I think it'd be doable with it up on jack stands, using a jack - if necessary - to lift the lower control arms back in place while bolting/unbolting them. Anyone tried it?

The 5 minutes it takes to release the balljoints from the spindle is time well saved VS trying to remove the old bushings and install poly with the suspension components flopping around. trying to reinstall the lower control arm and spring with everything else connected would be pretty difficult I imagine.

[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 10-17-2012).]

quote Originally posted by jelly2m8: The 5 minutes it takes to release the balljoints from the spindle is time well saved VS trying to remove the old bushings and install poly with the suspension components flopping around. trying to reinstall the lower control arm and spring with everything else connected would be pretty difficult I imagine.

I can agree with that on the rear, but the front will involve pretty much removing everything(remove spindle/knuckle and everything attached to it) to do the lower, then the annoyance of getting that coil spring back in...the top should be easy though.

If you have Rodney's tool, removing the balljoint from the steering knuckle is a piece of cake. I don't think you could get the bolts lined back up again with the coil spring in anyway, if the knuckle is still attached. I just rebuilt the front suspension on my car, and the hardest part was getting the bolts separated from the sleeves they were rusted to.

quote Originally posted by Stubby79: I can agree with that on the rear, but the front will involve pretty much removing everything(remove spindle/knuckle and everything attached to it) to do the lower, then the annoyance of getting that coil spring back in...the top should be easy though.

Just do one at a time and reinstall before you do the other, that way your not removing the spindle / caliper then.

quote Originally posted by jelly2m8: Just do one at a time and reinstall before you do the other, that way your not removing the spindle / caliper then.

There's a good thought. Thanks!

[This message has been edited by Stubby79 (edited 10-17-2012).]

Honestly, if you're going to do it, might as well do it right and replace the ball joint while you're at it too.

Is there any reason why you wouldn't want to burn the bushings out? I've used both the drill method, and the propane torch method, and the torch method is SOOO Much easier.

I think it's even easier than using a press.

Then, you just go through the bores with a wire wheel, and it cleans up perfectly.

quote Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: Is there any reason why you wouldn't want to burn the bushings out?

That's an easy one...I live in a condo and don't think I'll impress anyone with fire and nasy black smoke pouring out of the parking garage. I'm pretty free to do what I like in there, but I think that's going a bit far!

quote Originally posted by Stubby79: That's an easy one...I live in a condo and don't think I'll impress anyone with fire and nasy black smoke pouring out of the parking garage. I'm pretty free to do what I like in there, but I think that's going a bit far!

All the more reason to completely remove the control arms. Then you can take them right out of the parking garage and go down the lane to torch those bushings.

This is a friend and I a couple years ago popping out bushings. Heat them up, give a tug, out they come.



It's worthwhile noting that there's no need to "burn" out the bushings. Once they get a little molten on the outside they slide out very easy.

Replacing both upper and lower front control arm bushings even for amateur should take no more than 2 hours.

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quote Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua: Replacing both upper and lower front control arm bushings even for amateur should take no more than 2 hours.

Does that include the removal of the control arms? Or are you just referring to removing the bushings and replacing them with new?

quote Originally posted by zmcdonal: Does that include the removal of the control arms?

I hope not, that took me a day per side...

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/124766.html

I just started using a ball joint press, like a big heavy duty C clamp, and basically shove a washer through the bushing hole pushing the bushing out, made really easy using an air impact. I tried burning mine with an acetylene torch, but it was a mess, and I could seem to get mine to burn out all the way out, they just got nasty.

The final answer is: Yes...sorta. Not worth the effort though.

I gave it a try though, on the one side. You end up having to disconnect most of the stuff anyway, just to drop the lower control arm. My ball joints didn't want to pop out though, so I left the knuckle/hub/brake setup on. Disconnected the swaybar, shock and tie rod, the unbolted the lower control arm, and dropped the spring off and swung the control arm around to drill out/replace the bushings. Fought it for a little while trying to use a jack to push the control arm back up in place but couldnt get it to line up properly (though I found a thread where someone used two bottle jacks to do just this. I don't have any bottle jacks and its too tight for two floor jacks), so I took the spring out, bolted it back in, pulled the upper control arm bolt out and then I was able to stuff the spring back in.

All in all, to save anyone reading this in the future a headache: do everyhting to your front suspension all at once. New springs, bushings, balljoints, etc, paint the control arms and what have you....yeah, get everything together all at once and do it all at the same time, cuz pulling it apart once is more than enough hassle. Doing it again a little while later sucks.

On another note...what's with the control arms/knuckles getting filthy so easily on our cars? or is it all GM cars of this age? I had left them clean not too long ago and again my ball joint nuts and the top of the knuckle was just coated with a layer of dried on muck. To the point that you can barely tell there's nuts under there. Doesn't happen with any of my other cars...

What the H#$$ is that pic from?
What was done to those A arms.
Sawzall? explosion? Atomic meltdown?