Finally, back on track and getting the A/C work going. I rented a video from Auto Zone About A/C system which was helpful. Found small partials of metal in the Filter which means flushing out the system would be the right thing to do . According to the video I need to remove tubes and hoses and flush them out but as I start this adventure I can see some hoses are through the trunk floor, etc.
(1.) Can I detach each end of the hose or tube and flush the lines, while it is still attached to the car? Or, should I try to remove them entirely from the car then flush???
(2.) In the video all the hoses were easy to get to and I can see that isn't the case here!
(3.) Should I replace the muffler hose which is attaches to the compressor? When do you know it is bad??

That is a great video, everyone who wants to work on their AC system should watch it.

1) You can, but gravity is your friend. You need a LOT of air pressure to push all the flush through the lines. If you can take them off the car, do so. The under car lines are easier to remove than they look.

2) I know, right?! Most cars have easier to work on AC systems than the Fiero (with the exception of the evaporator)

3) If there was metal in the system, yes. Mufflers cannot be flushed. Replace if there is any doubt.

Thanks and wish me luck...

quote Originally posted by RWDPLZ: 3) If there was metal in the system, yes. Mufflers cannot be flushed. Replace if there is any doubt.

Where do you get new mufflers from?

Make sure NOT to try to flush, the accumulator (the part in front of the radiator) or the evaperator (the part inside the cab), they don't flush and will hold flush in them after.

As far as the mufflers on the lines, just FYI there is nothing inside of them, those could prob be flushed. (I cut some open, off of a Fiero line, they are just hollow)

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quote Originally posted by sricka01: Where do you get new mufflers from?

On our cars, you have to get a new hose assembly. I'd look at the orifice tube of the car the hoses come from if you get a used one.

I've done a few AC systems (two of which were on my Fiero).

A few things. Generally if you find metal shavings in the filter (orfice tube) you should thouroughly flush the entire AC system out and get a new compressor, accumulator and I'd highly recommend evaporator and condensor (pretty much everything except the lines).


1) If you plan to keep the car a while dont' skimp on compressors. Buy only from the top 3 or 4 brands out there. I've had horrible experience with auto parts store compressors (rebuilt or new). I have had great luck with OEM brand NEW compressors (aso available for about 1.5 to 2 times the cost of the rebuilt/refurbed units. Denso, Delphi, Delco, Bosch are the common ones that come to mind.

After doing an AC system three times in my one car (each time with new acumulator, condensor and evaporator) I had to replace the aftermarket brand compressors within 2 months of charging the system. I repeated the exact same process with an OEM brand compressor and had no issues for more than a year prior to selling the car.

2) Treat the servicing of AC components as you would an engine build.... everything must be perfectly clean. If it is not it will compromise the servic life of the system and cost you money to repeat the process if you want working AC again.

As an aside: the typical GM AC system overhaul cost between $600 and $1300 in parts bought from your local auto parts store (this is with compressor being the only brand name item purchased).

3) You can flush the lines in the car it will probably be easiest to do. I recommend finding a funnel with some hose that securely fits around the fittings. They now make special pressure bottles that hook to compressed air and make flushing much easier then the old funnel, hose and blow gun trick...

http://www.autozone.com/aut...temIdentifier=107397

One caution... these bottles can be dangerous if you try to open one that is pressurized. I'd recommend being extremely careful using them. They do work well though. The only issue I've run into is the threaded areas tend to produce metal filings from attaching and removing the top from the bottle.

4) The mufflers can be reused. IF you can find a local weld shop you can easily hack saw the muffler apart, remove the sharp edges with a file then clean out the inside of the muffler with some solvent or AC flush until it looks new. A good welder can weld the muffler back together in about 10-20 minutes (if that). I've done this several times and it works well. If you find a welding shop make sure they weld with TIG welder and 5352 welding wire.

5) If possible consider adding a filter before the compressor. This is optional and often a Pain in the.. but on a few systems I've done I put inline filters in to catch debri coming out of the compressor and before the compressor.

A/C compressors typically have a flat plate that rotates around and pushes a bunch of pistons down. The only thing that keeps the metal on metal contact from happening is the oil in the AC system. When a small piece of dirt or contamination enters the compressor it acts as a grain of sand would between two flat surface. The result is typically material removal and making the particle smaller. When/if these particles cycle through the system they cause further damage until your AC system sounds noisy and finally the compressor can seize.

To avoid this I put a filter after the compressor to keep as much debri from entering the system as possible. A secondary thought on this is to keep particles out of your just replaced condensor and evaporator. If you can do this you might not have to replace them when the compressor finally goes... just a good flushing and a new compressor...
6) AC flush isnt' cheap. Depending on the type it can be reusable. I've found that most oily AC flushes will settle out after a few weeks of sitting. You can usually see seperation when it happens.. the metal/dirt/ debri will sink to the bottom and the top will start to clear up. In one case I forgot about some used flush in a clear container for almost a year. The flush lost its dirty look a all the fine particles settled out.


I could continue with more items... however in general the process is simple... make sure the lines are as clean as possible. Replace the condensor and evaporator (of not flush the heck out of the condensor and evaporator and allow a few days to drain them , clean them with compressed air etc... before closing the system up).

Remember the smalles particle can start wearing a brand new compressor and shorten its life and cause you to have to replace ALL the epensive components of the system and repeat the labor again....

When you are all done you shoul be able to vacuum test the system prior to filling. I've had systems that hold vacuum for more than a day with no noticable change in gauge readings.

Remember to keep water out of the system and allow enough time under vacuum to remove the water/moisture.

Hope this helps a bit....

Thanks the more info I have the better I can do on the system. Yes, I purchased a Flush system to do the lines. I will probably purchase a condenser because the compressor was the original and it was froze up big time.

I just disconnect everything and blow all of the lines out with air. In order for the plain older non-barrier A/.C hoses not to leak they must be left undisturbed. Over the years they become impregnated with oil and have a nice oil layer on the inside walls. If you flush with solvent you stand a chance of a leak when using the finer molecule R-134a gas.. If your compressor grenades and you have the black plague then you will have no choice but to use A/C solvent flush.

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[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 05-10-2013).]

Yesterday I took the risk and flushed the muffler. I am confident this muffler flush will be okay. I filled the muffler full of flush liquid and put my thumbs over each opening and shook the line vigorously. I then poured it into a bucket and refiltered the flush with a coffee filter. I kept reflushing the muffler until absolutely no metal flakes appeared in each subsequent flush. After looking at pics on the internet of a dissected GM muffler and the simplicity of it, I don't think it will be plugged or have any residual metal flakes.