Some time back I put in a new headliner. Got the material from Jo Ann Fabrics. It looked good and matched perfectly. It had a foam backing on it. I bought, from an auto store, the best headliner adhesive they had and followed the directions. After a few weeks it came loose! I attributed this to the fact the material has to be streched to fit nicely into the overhead depressions and the adhesive was not the right one. I want to do it over again and I am asking for suggestions as to what ADHESIVE and ANY OTHER TRICKS anyone is willing to pass along to me...Was I wrong to use material with foam? I have two Fiero's to do...

One quart can of 3M contact adhesive and a 4 inch paint roller.
Set your board on the material and mark where you need to spread the glue.
Now clean the board of all loose material.
Spread the glue on the board making sure you cover everywhere the material will come in contact with it.
Now lay out the cloth and use a small roller and apply the rest of the glue on the cloth.
You need to spread it about an inch over where you marked the outline of the board.
Let it dry where it will not stick to your finger.
Now fold the cloth in half and stick the middle part to the center, it would be nice to have a helper with this part.
Fold down the back half carefully smoothing it out as you go.
Be very careful once stuck it is on there for good.
Now do the same to the front half.
You should not have to stretch the fabric at all.
Let it setup and trim the outside edges and light box part.
I folded over the edges about 2 inches. Do not cut the opening for the sunroof just yet.
I had real good luck and don’t have any of the corners showing any of the foam.
Install the board back in the car and put in the trim pieces.
Install the lower lock part of the sunroof.
Now use some scissors and cut out the opening for the sunroof about 2 inches smaller than the opening.
Start tucking in the straight edges with a putty knife.
Now is the tricky part, notch the corners a little at a time till you can tuck them in.
Now install the trim and your done.

I know you didn’t ask for this much of an answer I just figured it may help and some one else may need some tips too.
Good luck hope this helps.

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Just get a can of 3M Spray Headliner Adhesive. It works great and you do not need a roller or brush.

Just spray it on the headliner and the back side of the material. wait 5 minutes, then carefully mate the two together.

I keep telling you all but nobody listens. Those spray cans arent worth it. Ill ONLY use Weldwood Contact Cement from any hardware store. It went up now to $4 a pint, which is enough for a headliner. Coat both surfaces and wait a few mins then stick it. Make SURE you use the can that says 'Original" and not the new 'non'flammable' one (its white and not worth a crap). Make sure you got it placed rite because your not going to ever get it back off ever. If you use it and your headliner falls down before you sell your car, ill redo it free for you. Ive got black Naugahyde (heavy) in the Ferraro, and its been there for years. You will destroy the ceiling panel if you try to pull it loose. I use it straight out of the can in my paint gun, but it can be rolled on too. Dont use a thick layer, just enough to cover.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 02-12-2003).]

Thank you Jake and Roger for your helpful advice. I don't believe I will try any spray adhesive again for this job. (Thanks anyhow Toddster I still appreciate the input). I believe the roll on will be the method I will try.

I am with Roger on this one. I used the spray crap and it lasted until the first really hot South Carolina summer day came along... about two days after I redid my headliner. The headliner material dropped like a boxer taking a dive. I am going to redo it soon, and will use the stuff in a can and a roller.

I agree..use contact cement only. SPray on sucks. I redid mine in black vinyl and it is stuck for good.

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Hmm.. When I do the headliner in the car I have in the body shop, I'm going to be using contact cement only cause of the stretching that will occur do to something secret, lol.

But as far as my other cars, I've done 3 with the spray, the oldest is of 3 years, and not one is showing signs of failure.. Hmph. oh well, maybe I got lucky...

I think Im gonna go against the grain on this one a little bit. I too used weldwood original contact cement from Lowes and it did not hold up well with a vinyl headliner (I realize that the thread is about regular cloth but figured I'd addd my two cents about the vinyl). I spread it on using a little foam roller. The glue tacked up on the roller before I could finish a whole headliner and board. The foam started falling apart onto the board. So I used a cheap paintbrush to finish which also got all stuck together and was hard to spread with.

I finally finished both the board and the headliner with a generous, but not to generous amount of glue, then I stuck it together very carefully following the start on one end then roll on method. It looked ok at first. But about 5 minutes later I could see pockets forming where it was stretched and I had to take it apart, which was surprisingly easy for some reason. It seemed to not wanna stick.

SO I ran out and bought 3M super 90 counter top laminate spray which worked like a charm.... UNTIL I installed it in the car and a few weeks later it started forming pockets where it was stretched above the passenger and drivers side AGAIN.

My point is, it doesn't seem to work well with a roller or brush on vinyl(in my experience). Probably ok with a spray gun I assume

No comment on regular cloth liners though. I assume they have less weight and stretch easier than vinyl. Damn vinyl.

[This message has been edited by connecticutFIERO (edited 02-12-2003).]

ok, you all say dont use the 3M Spray Headliner Adhesive(except a few). Now if it doesnt hold, tell me how to get it off. I redid my headliner about 4 years ago. I used a charcoal color instead of the dark gray. Now, I found some gray and want to switch. but I know the headliner is in there good. It held up to the florida summers for several years. Now its in Indiana going thru the winter. it doesnt sag one bit. Its just too dark for my liking.

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SSFiero@Aol.com

spraying is by far better than the roller. If you want to change it now, you either have to buy a new back board or do what ive done...just put the new one over the top of the one you have. Just makes extra padding.
If it came back off or bubbled, you either got it on too thick or didnt let it dry long enough before sticking them together. The glue CANT be wet.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 02-13-2003).]

Back in my youth, after numerous indescretions, I was afflicted with that all-too-common GM Malady-EIGHTIES HEADLINER DROOP!! Being monetarily challenged and unable to replace the cheap piece-of-crap styrofoam & cloth combination, I sought other remedies.

I learned that after clawing the remnants of perished foam & fabric off the ceiling the remaining material would take a textured surface quite well. Accordingly I went to K-Mart's paint department & checked out their faux-marble spray paint. This stuff is designed to produce a stone-like finish when sprayed on vases, flower pots, etc... and has one significant advantage. Since it comes out in a rough textured surface, you could spray it on a corncob & still get a good result. It's that forgiving. It comes in enough shades that you can complement just about any color scheme, and once applied is nearly indestructible.

Check this stuff out. You might be surprised.

quote Originally posted by RalphMudflap: (Thanks anyhow Toddster I still appreciate the input). I believe the roll on will be the method I will try.

It's your call. But I've done a half dozen headliners over the years using 3M Spray headliner adhesive and they are all holding like concrete. Just go to my website to see the variety of cars I've done. I really don't know why you would want to spend $30 for a gallon of contact cement and go through all the mess when for $7 you can use the same stuff professional upholsterers use to get the exact same results with no mess in half the time.

I only use 3M (62-4967-4930-0) Headliner Spray Adhesive. For a local distributor call 1-800-364-3577

Just the voice of experience talking.

quote Originally posted by Toddster: It's your call. But I've done a half dozen headliners over the years using 3M Spray headliner adhesive and they are all holding like concrete. Just go to my website to see the variety of cars I've done. I really don't know why you would want to spend $30 for a gallon of contact cement and go through all the mess when for $7 you can use the same stuff professional upholsterers use to get the exact same results with no mess in half the time. I only use 3M (62-4967-4930-0) Headliner Spray Adhesive. For a local distributor call 1-800-364-3577 Just the voice of experience talking.

Contact cement is less than $5 a pint? The spray adhesive is around $12 a can at Home Depot and Lowes.

I just went to Home Depot and got that pint last week for $4.39. Did Raptor headliner w/no sunroof and the whole back compartment carpet in the Corvette coupe (floor,2 rear wheel houses,rear panel). And still got some left.

I know several people that own auto upholstery shops and they all buy bulk contact cement and use a paint gun. Only time I see a spray can around is for something like fixing a sunvisor.

[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 02-13-2003).]

I did my headliner about 3 times in a month with normal upholstery glue before I got some 3M Super 77 spray adhesive and got it right.

Any of the normal headliner glues are not worth the bother, go 3M.

Dillon