Any one done this to coupe? I love the looks of the scope. It seems to update the car.

Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you MinnGreenGT for bumping this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Before I bought my Aus scoops, I searched for hours in the current threads and archives, and didn't find this one! I see now that this is the car on Aus's site... Awesome work to that car, exactly how I (And most everyone that gets them I'm sure!) planned on doing it. I was going to go with the 3M adhesive, but now this brings up another option. I'm also going to check with a local 'Vette shop to see what they'd reccomend. I'd like to *not* have to buy an applicator gun, but I guess I will if I have to! Again, thanks for bumping this post!!!! :-D

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Bob Williams
Multi-colored '87 Mutt, a work in progress! (Got my 3800SC, installation in progress!!!)

quote Originally posted by Riceburner98: Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you MinnGreenGT for bumping this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Actually, it was your recent post on receiving the Stage2 stuff that made me dig this one back up. Glad I could be of some help- hopefully we'll all finish these about the same time... so AUS can finally have a real "gallery" of images!

Update!

I heard back from my 3M Rep (who actually works for Barry & Sewall) and he dropped off a 400ml container of Devcon PolyStrate "Plastic Welder II". He mentioned that some local boat companies use it for structural joints, but he was unsure of the sanding & painting qualities.

I had also noted 3M products #08101/08107, 08115, and others, but I'm a bit unsure as to what would be the best. I may stop by the local auto-body supply store and see if they have advice.

Finally, I had submitted an inquiry with Araldite through their website- and I just received a phone call from their local rep. He said that the closest reference he could locate to the "KP36" part number was their current #2011. Although he recommended that their "Fastweld 10" may work better (very good sanding & painting qualities), and he would get back to me shortly with a pricing & availability quote.

So... just pretty much throwing some more info out there!

[This message has been edited by MinnGreenGT (edited 02-28-2003).]

bump, Did anyone ever find an adhesive that worked well for this project that didn't require an applicator?

Hey Aus,

Whats with the Yugo/Serb connection? What happened?

quote Originally posted by I fly GT: bump, Did anyone ever find an adhesive that worked well for this project that didn't require an applicator?

I still haven't had the time to work on them yet... but I understand that there are others here who have.

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Looking for Fiero posters?

Here's some more info... for people doing the kit. I e-mailed the rep that makes fast weld, the company is actually in my home town.

She said

The kits that come in a 50ml (DS-50) do require a DS-50 dispensing gun (that come with nozzels - extra nozzels sold separately). The 9oz. tubes do not require any additional items to mix. The 50ml cartridges are available from Avon. The 9oz. tube would have to ship UPS from Michigan. I did check with our product manager and he feels that the Fastweld 10 would not be your best option. This material is not even rated in our liturature for bonding fiberglass materials. The material we would suggest is the Araldite 2015. This material is available only in the 50ml cartridges, which requires purchase of a dispensing gun. It is in stock here in Avon (both the gun and the materail). The cartridges are $14.10 each and the gun is $44.08 (would ship from PA via UPS).

I'm going to do some shopping around tommorow to find a better solution.

That doesn't sound like *too* bad a price... My metric skills are a bit lacking, exactly how much bonding would 50ml do? Isn't the 3m stuff more, and the gun > $100? Hope to have mine on at some point, they looked great when I just stuck them on for the photo!

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Bob Williams
Multi-colored '87 Mutt, a work in progress! (Got my 3800SC, installation in progress. It now starts and runs!!!)

Looks Great!!!

Confused by the Installation described by jelly2m8. " Filling in the back side of the panel with epoxy" That is a ton of epoxy. The door will weight 20 lbs more and that will cost a fortune in epoxy. Can you check again with the body shop guys? I need to install the same kit on my sons GT.

[This message has been edited by hot fiero (edited 04-30-2003).]

quote Originally posted by hot fiero: Looks Great!!! Confused by the Installation described by jelly2m8. " Filling in the back side of the panel with epoxy" That is a ton of epoxy. The door will weight 20 lbs more and that will cost a fortune in epoxy. Can you check again with the body shop guys? I need to install the same kit on my sons GT. [This message has been edited by hot fiero (edited 04-30-2003).]

Actually I'm glad you brought that up. I forgot to update about that, I'm bad like that.

Aus recommended filling the back side of the panels and attaching them to the car. I passed this on to the body shop guys, and though nothing else of that part of the procedure.

One day not oh so long ago, I was working on the car, and knocked the moulding with my knuckles. Nothing broke or anything, but it sounded hollow.

I was at the shop one day and they asked about the car, thats when I asked a few more questions.

The original plan was to fill the backsides with the epoxy, but they had concerns exactly as you mentioned, plus the added fact that you would have a flexable panel, and a sold piece on the bottom.

What they did was used the epoxy and glued around the edges of the panels,(Similiar what to what one would do putting a model kit together), and held them in place for 6 hours with Duct tape.

Once that was set up, they used the remainder of the epoxy to build up around the edges and seams where the scoop panels meet the body panels, then sanded, and worked that to shape.
So the majority of epoxy they used, is on the outer edges of the panels.

Remember, these guys had the doors and fenders off, and did the attachment on a wrok stand.

The panels have been attached and blended to the car since last October. I sat the car outside a few nights this winter when I needed the garage space, in temperatures near -30deg C, and then put it in a warm shop.

Recently I drove some pretty rough roads, to check the character of the car over roung terrain, since its riding on poly, lowered etc. I drove enough rutted roads at fair to high speeds that the car jumped across the road a few times, and the windshield mirror fell of.

There isn't even the slightest hint of serperation, or bubbling of the areas where the panels are attached.

The panels seem to be permanetly attached with the Pliogrip.

[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 04-30-2003).]

Jelly- thanks for that added info... I was looking at mine the other day wondering the same thing (I could see filling the front piece- it's rather small- but the long pieces would require a ton of epoxy).

I've been thinking of either 'glassing in or simply making epoxy "flanges" on the insides... to create a bit more surface area for the adhesive to contact (although I'm glad to hear that the installation worked so well). This is similiar to the way the Fibersmith made/makes the 'stang-style deck scoop. (I'm really looking forward to this weekend... I think I may actually have some time to work on the car!)

I meant filling the inside edges of the panels. Maybe I should be clearer some times

I am thinking about buying the Stage II kit. Which epoxy is best for the non-professional? Was a special gun required? What results have you had installing these with the door panels on (i.e., vertical installation)? Will tape hold them in place? TIA
Paul