I know that a few of us have this problem…..the screw holes on my gauge console are stripped out, or are busted.
I was wondering if anyone has a creative idea on how to repair these? It seems as the screws were tighten to the point that the holes are all busted.
It would be nice to everything all in place, and not having everything falling out all the time. I know how to repair a stripped out screw.... :-) "what I'm interested in, is rebuilding the pieces that have broken off" you know, the type with nothing left but maybe 1/4 of the treads.
I have heard of people using CA glue (super glue) to fix the holes. I have never tried this, so don't blame me if it doesn't work They had said to put CA glue on the threaded hole and the screw. Screw it in and let it set. The glue will bond to the plastic, but not the metal screw. Once dry, remove screw leaving newly threaded hole. Worth a try anyway.
This problem arises becuse of the way these parts are assembled. The screw holes aren't threaded when the parts are molded - when they are assembled, self-threading screws (designed for plastic assemblies) are used which cut threads as they are driven in.
When you remove one of these screws, there's a procedure you need to follow when you re-insert it. Put the screw in the hole, then turn it BACKWARDS until the threads "click" into place. Now drive it forwards and it'll go into the same threads as before; no problem.
If you don't align the threads when reassembling, the screws cut another set of threads and (as many of you know) this weakens the threads to where they pull right out.
OK, so you didn't do it right and your screw holes are all stripped out. Here's a quick fix: take a flat toothpick, apply cyanoacrylate glue (Super Glue) to the last 1/4 inch. Stick it into the stripped hole and snap it off flush with the outside of the hole. Wait 5 minutes then drive your screws. If you disassemble again, remember to turn backwards until the threads align, then drive it in.
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10:28 PM
FieroGT87 Member
Posts: 3195 From: St. Louis, Mo, USA Registered: Jul 2001
I use a two part epoxy mix. I also used it for the glove box between the seats to reattached the vinyl to the plastic frame. That was atwo years ago and still holding strong.
Be careful getting it on anything. It sets within a minute or two and doesn't come off.
Earl R.
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10:30 PM
2000RagTop Member
Posts: 3999 From: Sussex, (Milwaukee) Wi. USA, Earth Registered: Jun 2003
I've used JB Weld to fill in the hole and to hold the parts together, then used the self tapping screws to make new holes in the solid piece. Like FieroGT87 mentioned.
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10:34 PM
Darth Fiero Member
Posts: 5921 From: Waterloo, Indiana Registered: Oct 2002
you can get a 2-part plastic weld epoxy glue at most auto parts stores. apply liberaly and after it fully cures, redrill for your screws. worked great for me but stinks bad while it is curing so don't try to drive car during that time.
------------------ 1987 Fiero Coupe 3800 Series II Intercooled Turbo 1987 Trans Am GTA 5.7L Superram 4L60-E 1985 Fiero SE 2.8 (soon to have an L36)
you can get a 2-part plastic weld epoxy glue at most auto parts stores. apply liberaly and after it fully cures, redrill for your screws. worked great for me but stinks bad while it is curing so don't try to drive car during that time.
This is what I was looking for.......:-)
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10:49 PM
Aug 4th, 2003
rogergarrison Member
Posts: 49601 From: A Western Caribbean Island/ Columbus, Ohio Registered: Apr 99
I think what he is talking about is where there is 1/4 or 1/2 hole left. The plastic is actually broken away, leaving only a '|C' looking thing instead of a: |O|'.
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01:41 AM
mrfixit58 Member
Posts: 3330 From: Seffner, Fl, USA Registered: Jul 99
For ears that have been broke off and lost, I've repaired them using JB weld and masking tape. I first creat a pocket with the tape and lay the screw into the remaining threads. Then I fill the pocket it with JB Weld. once it starts to set, I move the turn the screw up and down a little to make sure it doesn't stick. Wetting the screw with a little grease will belp prevent sticking.
One other tip, most of the tabs are broken off from over-tightening. The screw only needs to be bottomed out, not tightened. The plastic is not structual so the screws do not need to be tight, just snug. And, no, the screws will not vibrate out.
I glued my console back together a couple of years back and it shows no sign of turning loose yet. This stuff sets up as a rigid plastic and is the most workable from all the epoxys I've tried.
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12:39 PM
4-WHEEL Member
Posts: 194 From: Thornville,Ohio,USA Registered: Nov 2000
You guys can make fun if you want, 2 years ago Tweetie Bird used finger nail powder that you make new nails out of & it works good. You use a small brush in the liquid then pick up the powder & apply it to the screw hole or crack.
------------------ STOCK 88 GT
[This message has been edited by 4-WHEEL (edited 08-04-2003).]
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03:20 PM
2000RagTop Member
Posts: 3999 From: Sussex, (Milwaukee) Wi. USA, Earth Registered: Jun 2003
I think what he is talking about is where there is 1/4 or 1/2 hole left. The plastic is actually broken away, leaving only a '|C' looking thing instead of a: |O|'.
"Love your display....|C' - |O|'. I was trying to figure out how to show this !! :-)
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10:41 PM
Aug 5th, 2003
fieromadman Member
Posts: 2217 From: Oconomowoc WI, USA Registered: Jan 2003
then the screw holes that are in the plastic piece that your mounting are busted out i put the piece on some newspaper and then fill in the hole with 2 part epoxy and let it dry. once its dry i lift it off the paper (well actually rip ) and drill out the holes again and if you really want the repair to bu un-detecable color the remaining newspaper that is glued around the hole with a black permanant marker. Worked well for me all the times that ive used it.
I know especially around the radio the screw holes on the bezel like to enlarge, thats mainly where ive used it